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COPYRFGHT DEPOSIT. 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 



A DAILY BEFEBENCE-BOOK FOB 
YOUNG AND INEXPEBIENCED HOUSEWIVES 



Br JULIET CORSON 

II 

AUTHOR OF 

■FIFTEEN AND TWENTY-riTK CENT DINNERS" ETC. 




NEW YORK 

HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 
1888 



T3 



,^^•3 3 



Copyright, ISSY, by Harper &l BKOinERs. 



All rights rettrved. 






PREFACE. 



DuRiXG the publication in IIarper''s Bazar of the 
series of articles upon which this work is based, many 
and vivacious were the comments elicited by the sub- 
ject-matter. We Americans are nothing if not criti- 
cal; and we are rather given to thinking imjDossible 
those things Avhich we have not individually accom- 
plished. No better answer can be made to such men- 
tal casualties than the suggestion of that mild j^hilos- 
opher and observer of fishes and men, Isaak Walton: 
^^ Douht not hut that (Jiere) is an art icorth your learn- 
ing. The questi07i is rather, lohether you be capahle 
of learning it, since it partakes of those things " made 
for icise men to conte^nplate^'' etc. 

But seriously we say to our readers, " Study the en- 
tire book with attention, for it is a record of things 
most necessary to success in housekeeping, which 
young housewives generally attain through many try- 
ing experiences." It would be useless to think of 
comprehending the system in detail by selecting at 
random any portion which might fix the- eye during a 
cursory examination. It is only by understanding the 
entire plan that it can be successfully practised: in- 



IV 



PREFACE. 



tending to live in a house, one would not settle down 
upon the piazza. 

And then, the fact always remains that many house- 
holds are living comfortably by the application to 
every- day emergencies of the principles herein set 
forth, and "facts are stubborn things." 



CONTENTS. 



Chapter P'^"'= 

I. A Working Outline 1 

II. The Pukchase of Food 15 

III. General Supplies and Prices 27 

IV. Macaroni and its Cookery 37 

V. Canned Goods 45 

VI. The Economical Purchase and Use of 

Meat 53 

VII. How to Use Quantities of Beef .... 66 

VIII. Lamb, Mutton, Veal, and Pork .... 80 

IX. Suggestions for Country Housekeepers . 95 

X. Vegetables and their Cookery .... 110 

XL Mushrooms and Salad-plants 123 

XII. Salads with Mayonnaise 132 

XIII. Pickles 142 

XIV. Preserves, Canned Fruit, and Fruit-cor- 

dials 154 

XV. Grapes, Oranges, and other Table-fruit 168 

XVI. The Second Service of Food 184 

XVII. Soups 192 

XVIII. Fish 201 

XIX. Game and Game Birds ........ 211 

XX. Some Poultry for Luncheon ..... 229 

XXI. Green Turtle and Terrapin 242 

XXII. Household Suggestions 258 



^J CONTENTS. 

Chapter Page 

XXIII. Informal Table Sekvice 27G 

XXIV. Dining-room Work 293 

XXV. Small Social Entertainments 309 

XXVI. Sunday Teas 316 

XXVII. Luncheons and Suppers 323 

XXVIII. Carting and Serving 329 

XXIX. The Sera^ice of Dinner 338 

XXX. Two Nice Little Dinners 350 

XXXI. Spring Dinners 357 

XXXII. Summer Dinners 373 

XXXIII. A Midsum:mer Experiment, and something 

ABOUT Breakfast 385 

XXXIV. Autumn Dinners 394 

XXXV. Thanksgiving Dinners 407 

XXXVI. Christmas Fare 415 

Index 425 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A TEAR. 



CHAPTER I. 

A WOKKING OUTLINE. 



It is not the easiest of problems that we propose to 
help our readers solve, but it is one that numbers of 
them are called upon to consider daily. 

If the first thought is that the limit fixed here is too 
low, let the second be that thousands of active workers 
live upon one half the amount in every American city, 
and do not consider themselves deprived of the com- 
forts of life. It is not within present purpose to de- 
fine such living, but to outline that which is habitual 
among those prosperous young professional people who 
have just secured a foothold in life, and who have rea- 
sonable hopes of eventual success. 

If we take the average income of the prosperous 
American household of the medium range of intelli- 
gence and culture, we shall find it to be from $1500 
to $2000 a year. Young professional men and young 
merchants and financial men who have married and see 
families growing up about them do not usually exceed 
these amounts in, the years when they are laying the 
foundations of future fortunes. 

If the parents of these young families are thought- 
1 



2 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

f ul persons, they realize that tliis period stamps a hall- 
mark upoa whatever true metal of character and ca- 
pacity there is in them. They know that they are sow- 
ing the harvest their children must reap — planting the 
seeds of physical and mental health, which, if they plant 
wisely, shall grow into the strong and gracious manliness 
and pure and tender womanhood that are the glory 
of the earth. They have certain means to work with. 
Given the habitual surroundincfs of the intellectual 
classes in this country — a comfortable home, some 
works of art and literature, now and then a little good 
music, fair facilities for the education of their children, 
and probable prosperity in business affairs, but no super- 
fluity in any direction — the fact is at once evident that 
both husband and wife have duties, that success or fail- 
ure in life must be the result of united and sustained 
effort, not the least upon the part of the wife, since upon 
her prudence and capacity the judicious outlay of the 
greater part of the income will depend*. Small fortune 
will ordinarily attend the household where the wife 
is an incapable, unless, indeed, the husband carries the 
purse of Fortunatus. The expenditure which the wife 
can actually regulate is that bearing chiefly upon the 
table. Upon her ability depends its use in right pro- 
portion to the sum of the income. When the ordi- 
nary expenses of living are considered, the table should 
not consume more than one third of the entire amount. 
Suppose this to be $1500. An average rent would be 
$25 per month; while in some cities it would be more, 
in many localities it would be considerably less, especial- 
ly in young and spreading communities and their sub- 
urbs, and upon the line of metropolitan railways ; in 
perfectly respectable city neighborhoods a floor or a 
J part of a small house can be rented for from $25 to 



A WORKING OUTLINE. 3 

$30 a month. Fuel for a cooking-stove and two other 
fires, and lights, would cost about $8 per month, pro- 
viding coke were used in cities, and the cinders of 
coal utilized, and if some of the lighting were done by- 
kerosene. Upon this point it may be well to say here 
that actual tests have shown possible the entire light- 
ing of a four-story city house with kerosene at an 
average cost of 83 per month, not including the cost 
of lamps. The average single servant's hire is about 
$12 per month. Then would come household wear 
and tear and medical attendance, that would proba- 
bly be covered by $100 a year, the fact being remem- 
bered that the doctor's visits can be largely affected 
by the mother's own care of her family, and chiefly 
by keeping them properly nourished. Church dues, 
literature, and amusements w^ould require at least $60 
a year. And this estimate would leave $300 for cloth- 
ing. 

At the first calculation it would appear almost hope- 
less to think of supplying such a table as the some- 
what capricious and uncertain appetite of the people 
in question would seem to demand upon such a sum 
as $1 37 a day, for that is about the daily portion of 
$500 a year. We must cater for those whose occupa- 
tions exhaust both mind and body, for gentle folk who 
are accustomed to delicate and varied fare, and who 
probably could not, if they tried, satisfy their physical 
needs with the habitual food of the robust worker in 
the Open air. We shall propose for the daily dinner 
some such variety as that on the next page, remem- 
bering that at no season will it be more difiicult to 
secure this than in midwinter (Avhen the task was first 
attempted in the columns of Harper's Bazar) ^ when 
the result was successful: 



4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Soup, or 

a fish -with potatoes. 

Two vegct<ables with a sauce, or 

one entree and one vegetable. 

Roast, baked, or broiled meat, poultry, or game, or 

boiled or braised meat, with a sauce. 

Salad with cheese. 

One large sweet dish or two small ones. 

Fruit, nuts, coffee. 

If, in regarding such an outline, the first thought is 
one of discouragement, the second reflection is: "Many- 
do just this, and without any special training. See, 
then, what can be done by calling into use some of the 
resources of cookery." 

If we give only one bill of fare occasionally, the ob- 
jection may be raised that people cannot live upon the 
same thing for seven days in the week. Tonjours per- 
drixl But in a short time we shall have several from 
which to choose for daily use, and, before our limit is 
filled, more variety than the ordinary household dreams 
of having during the entire year. For one of the worst 
evils of American housekeeping is the fact that a small 
round of dishes serves season after season and year after 
year, when a seasonable variety would benefit both ap- 
petite and health. 

Upon the threshold of our experiments we must de- 
cide that at our figures there is very little margin for 
the indulgence of individual idiosyncrasies of taste, un- 
less they are very simple. The caterer must be free to 
balance an exjoensive dinner — and there is none more 
expensive than a plain roast or boiled joint — by anoth- 
er of cheaper materials, being restricted only by con- 
siderations of health. To people who are obliged to 
fit strong natural prejudices within narrow financial 
limits we would suggest the non-advisability of culti- 



A WORKING OUTLINE. ^ 

a 

vating them. Even though morally certain that you 
will not like some dish, rouse up your courage to test 
it. It may be a sort of " forlorn hope," the only res- 
cue possible to the culinary commander who is trying 
to marshal her meagre forces to capture the citadel of 
your capricious appetite. And your least effort should 
be in her behalf. 

In the line of economical combination farinaceous 
food must play an important part, the point being so 
to combine it with flesh-makino^ elements that it can 
satisfactorily replace some of the lighter meat-dishes. 
The various ways of serving macaroni with sauces and 
cheese will illustrate this point. On a day when the 
principal meat-dish is small there might be a savory 
one of macaroni, samp, or polenta (a preparation of 
Indian meal). Either of these farinaceous foods, com- 
bined with sauces made of butter or drippings, and 
with cheese, may be used in place of part of the meat. 
Nor should they be thought scant fare. The most 
vigorous races of which history gives us record have 
lived chiefly upon them. The old Romans and the 
Greeks fought well upon them, and they are the chief 
subsistence of some of the hardiest of modern Euro- 
pean agricultural laborers. Rye, oats, corn, wheat, 
buckwheat, and rice are staple foods in the most 
thickly-populated sections of the civilized world, and 
in Oriental countries such fare has nourished races 
whose origin is lost in the mists of antiquity; so that 
the cereals need not be thought lacking in nutriment. 
Their palatability depends upon their cookery. 

While we begin with the expression of disbelief in 
Poor Richard's axiom that one should rise from the 
table before hunger is entirely satisfied, we must in- 
sist that there should be no waste of food, not even 



Q FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

by children. There is no reason why a child cannot 
be taught to eat nicely from the hour it first takes its 
place at the table. Indeed, if the mass of American 
mothers were more attentive to the table-habits of 
their young children, dining at a public table would 
be a less uncomfortable matter than it often is nowa- 
days. Put but little at once upon a child's plate, and 
if it early shows very marked distastes, try to over- 
come them, if they are for wholesome food. Unless 
they are inherited, there is generally some physical 
cause for them, which parents should endeavor to com- 
prehend. The morbid tastes of young people gener- 
ally have their origin in some physical disturbance 
that calls for medical oversight. This point should 
be regarded, because there are usually two or three 
children in the family. There will be the parents, 
and probably one servant. That is the extent of the 
household w^hose needs we propose to consider. A 
dollar extra may be allowed each week for additional 
children under ten years of age, and two dollars for 
those older than that, as well as for each additional 
adult. If the number to be provided for were much 
larger the proportionate expense would be much less. 
If there must be no waste by children, far less will 
any be allowable at the clearing of the table or in the 
kitchen. There may seem to be an objection to using 
again food which has once been served; and, indeed, 
it is the practice in many households to give it to spe- 
cial pensioners or to applicants at the door. This will 
be totally inadmissible under our estimate; there ca*n- 
not be a margin for the supply of any food which is 
not required for the actual consumption of the family. 
The mistress must train her maid to be such a neat- 
handed Phyllis that there can be no objection to the 



A WOEKING OUTLINE. h 

second appearance of food; but it will seldom come 
again to table in its first form under our system, for 
in that state it would be cold, and health cannot be 
perfectly maintained upon cold food. Any substance 
eaten at a less temperature than about 100° Fahr. im- 
poses upon the stomach the task of heating it to that 
warmth before digestion can commence. 

To return to our limit of expenses: When any de- 
gree of hospitality is contemplated it will be necessary 
to make an additional allowance in about the proj^or- 
tion given above. The adage that "where there is 
enough for one there is enough for two " will not ap- 
ply at the table. It may, however, be noted that it is 
far easier to furnish the table economically for a large 
family than for a small one, because there are such 
indispensable necessities as fuel, light, attendance, and 
the bases of all meals that are not augmented propor- 
tionately with numbers. And then, too, in the mat- 
ter of purchasing supplies, every housekeeper knows 
that advantages can be secured, even at retail rates, 
when the number in family allows the buyer to secure 
a quantity of any article of food temporarily cheap or 
abundant. 

To afford an immediate example of our economic 
scheme, the detail of the cost of material and the 
method of cookery is given. While it is not designed 
to replace cookery-books by this publication, the fact 
that success depends upon special methods is so patent 
that all available space will be devoted to them. The 
success of all cookery depends upon the most exact 
manipulation of materials, and from its absence many 
of the multitude of cookery-books 23rove of scant use 
to the housekeeper who desires to combine good liv- 
ing with economy. If the ingredients for making the 



3 - FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

dishes now in question are bought at usual retail mar- 
ket prices, the bill of fare we have chosen will cost 
about our entire daily average; but, be the fact again 
repeated, our estimate necessitates the purchase in 
quantity of such products as will give the w^holesale 
buyer a margin of price large enough to cover the 
cost of breakfast and luncheon or supper. As the 
work progresses, special attention will be given to 
dishes suitable for these meals. 

Our first bill of fare is suitable for any season when 
fresh vegetables are available. In the cities connect- 
ed, by steamer or rail, with Bermuda and the South, 
fresh garden produce is perennial, although expensive 
at certain times. 

Cream of beets. 

Fried cauliflower. 

Breast of lamb with stuffed potatoes. 

Stewed beets with brown sauce. 

Eoast beef with cheese salad. 

Marianne puddings with cream sauce. 

Apples, nuts, black coffee. 

If the family are small meat-eaters the beef might 
be enough, thus saving the cost of the dish of lamb. 
Or the salad might be omitted, at a saving of about 
10 cents ; or the fruit, nuts, and coffee, which cost 
about 20 cents. The ingredients "required to make 
all these dishes in quantity sufficient for the fam- 
ily we have in view would be about as follows in 
quantity and cost: a bunch of beets, 4 cents; a small 
cauliflower, 15 cents; a quart of potatoes (at 15 cents 
a half -peck), 4 cents; one or two small heads of let- 
tuce, 5 cents; a quarter of a pound each of butter and 
cheese, respectively 6 and 3 cents; two ounces each of 
citron and coffee, 6 cents ; an orange and two or three 



A WORKING OUTLINE. 9 

eggs, 9 cents; a quart of apples (at 40 cents a- peck), 
5 cents; a pound of nuts, 10 cents; a loaf of bread, 5 
cents; a quart of milk, 8 cents; a pound of sugar, 8 
cents; flour and seasonings, 5 cents; three pounds of 
chuck roast, 30 cents; and a breast of lamb or tender 
mutton, 10 cents. 

Equally with the details of cost those of cookery are 
given here, in order to show that careful treatment 
will give good results from comparatively meagre ma- 
terials. The dishes will be described in the order in 
which they would be made to be done at the same 
time. But this detail must not prepare our readers to 
expect it in future instances; here it is given to sub- 
stantiate our financial position. 

The beets must first be boiled in plenty of water, 
having been well washed with cold water and a cloth, 
without breaking the skins to permit the escape of col- 
or. Do not pierce them with a fork to test their ten- 
derness, but take one up on a skimmer and press it 
with the fingers, which may be protected from burn- 
ing by a towel. AVhen the beets are tender, rub off 
the skins with a wet cloth and slice them. Select 
about half a large cupful of the deepest red pieces, 
and rub them through a sieve with a potato-masher 
to make the coloring for the soup; then set aside the 
sliced beets and the puree^ or pulp. The time required 
for cooking the beets will be about two hours, unless 
they are very young and small. After the beets are put 
over the fire prepare the meats. The beef should be in 
the form of a large, thick steak cut from the chuck. 
Cut out all the bone and gristle, and put them in a 
baking-pan, after wiping them with a Avet cloth; lay 
the meat upon the table; season it with salt and pep- 
per; break a thick slice of bread in crumbs, and put 



10 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

it in the middle of the meat, together with a teaspoon- 
f 111 of salt, a saltspoonf ul of pepper, and either a table- 
spoonful of beef drippings or of raw beef fat chopped 
fine; fold or roll the meat, and secure it tightly with a 
stout cord; put it on the bones, and put the pan into 
the hottest of ovens until the meat browns; then sea- 
son it with salt and pepper, and baste it with the drip- 
pings which it yields. 

If the beef seems tough, add two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar to the drip^^ings used in basting. The vine- 
gar has a tendency to soften the fibres of the meat. 
Allow an hour for cooking it well done, then take off 
the strings, and serve it. The gravy is made by tak- 
ing the bones out of the pan, and pouring out all but 
about two tablespoonfuls of the drippings; save the 
drippings, and put the bones aside for the next day's 
use in soup-stock or to boil for making gravy or sauce. 
With the drippings put a heaping tablespoonful of 
flour, and stir them over the fire until brown ; then 
gradually stir in a pint of boiling water and a palata- 
ble seasoning of salt and pepper, and use the gravy 
after it boils. 

The lamb will cook in about three quarters of an 
hour. First boil it very gently for half an hour in 
enough boiling salted water to cover it, and then put 
it between the bars of a double-wire gridiron, and 
quickly brown it on both sides, seasoning it with salt 
and pepper. The cauliflower is to be thoroughly 
washed in salted cold water, and then boiled for 
fifteen minutes in salted boiling water, and cut in 
branches. Ten minutes before dinner-time it is to 
be rolled in flour, seasoned "with salt and peppei', and 
quickly browned in enough fat to i^revent burning. 
By breading the cauliflower the size of the dish can 



A WORKING OUTLINE. jj 

be increased. After the cauliflower is put to boil, 
the potatoes are to be washed and put into the oven. 
The puddings are then to be made as follows, and 
baked so as to be ready at the right moment: Grate 
two large cupfuls of stale bread, and soften it with a 
cupful of water; grate the rind and squeeze the juice 
of the orange; cut the citron in small bits and mix 
them with the bread, together with the yolks of two 
or three eggs, and sugar enough to sweeten the mixt- 
ure; butter six small cups; just before putting the 
puddings in the oven beat the whites of the eggs to a 
stiff froth, quickly mix them with bread and fruit, dis- 
tribute the mixture in the buttered cups, and bake the 
little puddings slowly for about twenty* minutes, or 
until they are brown. They are to be served hot, 
with cream-sauce. 

After the puddings are made the soups, sauces, and 
salad may be prepared; and when the potatoes are just 
tender they are to be finished as follows: as soon as 
they are perceptibly soft to the touch a piece is to be 
cut from the upper side large enough to admit the 
introduction of a teaspoon ; the soft interior of the 
potatoes is then to be taken out, mashed fine, seasoned 
with salt, pepper, and butter, and returned to the po- 
tatoes, when they will be ready to heat again, and 
serve. 

All the dinner will now be cooking except the soup 
and sauces. Make the sauce for the beets by stirring 
together over the fire a tablespoonful each of butter 
or drippings and flour until they are brown, and then 
gradually stirring with them a pint of boiling water 
and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; heat the 
sliced beets in this sauce. For the pudding-sauce, 
mix together over the fire a tablespoonful each of 



12 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

flour and butter, and when they bubble gradually stir 
in a cupful each of milk and water, and enough sugar 
to make a sweet sauce; when the sauce boils grate in a 
little nutmeg, and it will be ready to use. For the soup, 
mix together in a thick saucepan over the fire two 
heaping tablespoonfuls each of butter and flour until 
they are smoothly blended; then gradually stir in a 
quart of boiling water and a scant quart of milk, and 
continue to stir the soup until it boils; season it pal- 
atably Avith salt, white pepper, and a very little grated 
nutmeg; stir in the beet pulp and its red juice, and 
serve the soup directly it is made. 

The salad is made of lettuce carefully washed, torn 
with the fingers, put into a salad-bowd with a cupful of 
grated cheese, and dressed with two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar, six of oil, a level teaspoonful of salt, and quar- 
ter of a saltspoonful of pepper; the salad should be 
dressed at the table, because the lettuce soon loses its 
freshness after the dressing is added to it. If the 
cheese is omitted, the salad will be simply of lettuce; 
or cheese and bread or crackers may be served with it. 

In regard to the omission of the salad to effect a sav- 
ing of about ten cents these two points should be con- 
sidered; first, if served with bread and butter it may 
replace a more expensive dish of vegetables; and, sec- 
ond, in combination with cheese crusts, aj^ple croHtes^ 
or a sweet omelette it may take the place of a larger 
dessert. The healthfulness of salads is beyond ques- 
tion, and their appetizing freshness imparts a new zest 
to the most perfectly cooked roast or broil. The de- 
tail is given elsewhere of their many good qualities, 
and its careful perusal is commended to the reader who 
has hitherto given them but small consideration. 

The fact cannot be too earnestly emphasized that it 



A WORKING OUTLINE. 



13 



will not be possible to carry out successfully the scheme 
of living set forth in these pages unless there is a con- 
stant personal oversight on the part of the mistress of 
the house. That mental quality possessed by our pru- 
dent New England progenitors, by them called " fac- 
ulty," which implies the ability to meet emergencies 
readily, to reconcile contradictory conditions, to make 
things at hand take the place of desired but unobtain- 
able ones — in short, to be capable of constant adapta- 
tion, is indispensable to the task. If the forethought 
is lacking that decides how one day's superfluity may 
be balanced by another's more meagre fare, our pur- 
pose of maintaining the economical level will soon be 
frustrated. There must be a daily supervision of ma- 
terials on hand; while no one's fare is to be stinted, 
nothing may be wasted. One dish spoiled in the cook- 
ing, or the remains of food given or thrown away, or 
allowed to stand unused until unfit for the table, may 
counterbalance a carefully studied economy in another 
direction. 

Quite small quantities of cold meat, fish, poultry, or 
vegetables can be rewarmed in the form of breakfast 
or luncheon dishes. But there must be no experiments 
based upon doubtful authority. If a new dish is to be 
tried, do not undertake it in any uncertainty: either 
obtain the exact recipe from some one who has suc- 
ceeded with it, or from some reliable cookery-book; 
or, if the attempt is to be an original one, consider all 
the prospects of success and the possibilities of failure. 
To inexperienced housewives let it be said emphat- 
ically, " Be content to follow good old methods until 
you are competent to originate new ones; and do not 
ever change the ingredients of a dish or omit any part 
of its formula until it has been carefully made accord- 



14 FAMILY LIVING ON S500 A YEAR. 

ing to the recipe and tested in its entirety." Do not 
imagine that you will not like a thing; until you have 
tried it, give every dish the benefit of the doubt. If 
you do not like a dish properly made, do not alter it 
at the risk of failure, but make one about which you 
are certain. There are dishes enough in any branch 
of cookery to satisfy every taste, every individual 
idiosyncrasy, no matter how marked or peculiar. It 
is poor management, as well as an act of injustice to 
its originator, to spoil any dish by alteration or omis- 
sion. 



THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 



15 



CHAPTER 11. 

THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 

Further on in this book reference is made to an 
economic experiment, the success of which largely de- 
pends upon the purchase of supplies at the market 
early in the day. As this early marketing is some- 
times inconvenient, a plan is here proposed which can 
readily be carried out in any city or town where a 
number of friends live in the same neighborhood; in- 
deed, it might be followed as a regular business by 
any responsible person acting for several families liv- 
ing near each other. An intelligent, active woman 
could soon make a remunerative connection for her- 
self, as a matter of pure business, by undertaking the 
marketinof of half a dozen or more households. If 
there are facilities for keeping food, the best way of 
marketing is to buy the dry groceries by the barrel or 
case, and the perishable articles two or three times a 
week. Even if only the daily needs are catered to, 
one person can choose for five or six as well as for one, 
only a little more time being required, in addition to a 
definite idea of each household's wants. If this sys- 
tem of buying were to be undertaken by one person as 
a business, the evenings might be given up to calling 
at different houses for orders ; the daily needs having 
been m.et, the housekeeper could, in a few moments, 
ascertain what supplies remained on hand, and what 
would be required for one or more days' use. The 



16 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



objection that this would be troublesome is simply in- 
admissible; no one need hope to profit by the sugges- 
tions here given unless time and care are made to re- 
place the expenditure we seek to avoid; no idle or 
shiftless person can possibly accomplish our results. 
The advantage of making up the buyer's list in the 
evening would be that the marketing could be done 
in the early morning. The housekeeper who habitu- 
ally markets after breakfast would be astonished to 
see the activity which prevails in the large markets 
from four to six o'clock in the morning. It is then 
that the hotel and club caterers are selecting the 
choicest of the fresh market supplies, and that the 
heaviest buying of the day is done. The local vege- 
table or truck farmers drive their loaded wagons to 
market during the late afternoon or evening, remain- 
ing near their stands until the buyers come. The meats 
are sent at night or early morning from the slaughter- 
houses; and the milk and local fruit trains speed in their 
quota in " the wee sma' hours." So the caterer who de- 
sires the best of the market must needs be early there. 
The bulk of the local produce commission business, 
which consists in placing in the retail dealers' hands 
the daily receipts of perishable supplies, such as fruit 
and vegetables, is done between the hours of 9 p.m., 
when the Long Island farmers come in, and about 
4 A.M., when the last of the Southern trains arrive. 
The Savannah and Norfolk boats are due about mid- 
night, with new cabbage, potatoes, pease, string-beans, 
cucumbers, and tomatoes. The garden truck from 
Maryland, Delaware, and New Jersey arrives by rail 
between 11 p.m. and 4 a.m. All this produce is either 
on the commission stands or in the retail dealers' wag- 
ons by daylight. 



THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 



17 



After a " season " is well under way, that is, as soon 
as any local product ceases to be a rarity, there is but 
little daily variation in prices, unless the heat is so 
great as to make the attempt to keep food overnight 
ill-advised, or unless the regular market days occur 
but two or three times a week, as is the case in some 
Western and Southern towns; then the dealers may 
lower the prices as the day declines rather than try to 
keep their stock over. As a rule, it is not a good prac- 
tice to buy from street peddlers in cities: their stock 
is generally that left on the large dealers' hands at the 
close of the market demand, and is in danger of spoil- 
ing, if not already spoiled. The exception to this con- 
dition is where some dealer or licensed vender, known 
to his customers, habitually brings his wares to their 
houses; in some instances quite fresh fruits and vege- 
tables are thus obtainable, better than those which 
have been exposed to the sun and dust at the green- 
grocer's, notably if the vender has a little market gar- 
den in the suburbs, as many Germans and negroes have 
near New York, Cleveland, Washington, and other 
large cities. When licensed itinerant venders who are 
not produce raisers, or are not known to their custom- 
ers, have fresh goods, they usually sell from an over- 
stocked market, or give scant measure, taking advan- 
tage of the fact that they will not soon revisit the scene 
of their questionable dealing. But in small country 
neighborhoods the costermonger of England has his 
prototype in the peripatetic dealer who brings perfectly 
good supplies to the doors of his regular customers. 

To return to the question of one person buying for 
several, there are more advantages in this plan than 
the securing of fresh supplies; for instance, goods by 
the case or barrel cost much less than by the pound, ex- 



IQ i'AMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

cept sugar and a very few such closely figured articles, 
and the large quantity might be divided among sev- 
eral neighbors. Take macaroni as a sample. In most 
groceries not Italian the price of an inferior article is 
from fifteen to twenty cents a pound; during the pass- 
ing season it has been bought by the case at nine and 
ten cents a pound for the finest imported spaghetti. 
In buying at the large markets the caterer can usually 
have the various articles selected sent by the dealers to 
the local market express, where those for each par- 
ty can be put into a separate barrel, the name being 
marked on each article ; the charge for delivering each 
barrel is about twenty-five cents; the caterer can carry 
a basket to contain fruit and butter, which might be 
injured by being packed with other things. For the 
information of persons apt to question any idea new to 
them be it said that this system of marketing has been 
in practice in New York for some years, and that it 
affords one of the many ways by which ingenious 
women add to their incomes. In some instances a 
fixed sum is paid weekly to the caterer, say at the rate 
of about twenty-five cents a trip ; in others a small 
percentage on the total of the account is given ; either 
sum is well expended if tlie caterer is well-informed 
and careful as to quantities and the freshness of the 
purchases. In some households the man of the family 
markets on his way to business, but he is not always 
as economical as possible, and often provides more 
than can be used to good advantage, especially if he 
leaves any margin for the dealer to enlarge upon ; or, 
if economically inclined, his choice may prove insuf- 
ficient or unsatisfactory ; at the best such marketing 
is desirable only when the buyer has a clear idea of 
the actual and immediate needs of the cook; for un- 



THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 



19 



suitable profusion is as embarrassing to an economist 
as is scant provision. 

One of the best results of outside catering was seen 
in California, where the Chinese cook, an artist in his 
way, requested his mistress to give him weekly the 
sum she had habitually spent for household expenses ; 
she did so, and asserted that she had never lived so 
bountifully or so well, while her "boy" frankly stated 
that his commission was quite satisfactory to him. 
Much more compliment could be given to these Chi- 
nese servants. Before leaving this question of market- 
ing a suggestion may be made in reference to the green- 
groceries which abound in New York. Walks in dif- 
ferent parts of the city in warm Aveather show one 
lamentable fact — that, as a rule, the green vegetables 
exposed for sale are so wilted as to be unfit for food. 
This could be obviated largely if every housekeeper 
would use her influence to induce her local grocer or 
marketman to shade his stock from the sun, and to sprin- 
kle it plentifully with cool water several times in the 
course of the morning. This would be but compara- 
tively little trouble to each dealer, and it would not 
only give his wares to his customers in more whole- 
some condition, but it would make them more inviting 
in appearance, and preserve those left on his hands at 
the close of the day's trade. As nearly every grocer 
and marketman has a large refrigerator, the bulk of 
the stock might be left there, or in a cool part of the 
cellar, well sprinkled at least twice a day. The result 
would be less loss to the dealer, as well as improved 
food for the buyer. A rack could be arranged in one 
side of the ice-box, or the vegetables could be enclosed 
in a large cloth, and that part of the box frequently 
washed. The Board of Health would be doing a sani- 



20 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

tary service to the public if it would look into this 
matter. The fact at the root of it is simple enough ; 
all vegetables thrive on moisture while growing, or 
keep fresh longer if exposed to it after they are cut. 

Personal experience has shown that even the most 
perishable of all vegetables, lettuce, can be preserved 
fresh and crisp for several days in the hottest summer 
weather by keeping it cool and damp, not by immers- 
ing it in water, except at first, and then only long 
enough to revive it; after that it may be wrapped in 
a wet cloth and laid beside the ice, or put into a paper 
or wooden box and closed away from the air, care be- 
ing taken to moisten it twice a day, removing all de- 
cayed leaves, and keeping it in a cool, dark place. 

The veriest schoolboy conning his Virgil knows 

"How succory drinks the running streams, and how 
Green beds of parsley by the river grow/' 

and yet the dealer whose best interest lies in the 
freshness of his wares lets that homely herb, so indis- 
pensable at every table where taste holds sway, lan- 
guish in full midsummer heat before his door, and 
die for lack of a little of its native moisture. 

Our New York Board of Health does occasionally 
awaken to the fact that it possesses the power to decide 
upon the character of the food of the people; but in 
this matter of insisting upon the sale of fresh vege- 
tables and fruit it is spasmodic in action. At no sea- 
son of the year would activity in this direction be 
more acceptable than when the summer heat is upon 
us. In addition to raiding the large markets now and 
then, the board could secure the passage of a law 
compelling dealers to keep their green supplies in a 
state favorable to health, and so confer a great sani- 



THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 



21 



tary blessing upon that large class of people Avho deal 
almost exclusively Vv^itli grocers and venders. 

The Board might ^\^ell have oversight of the corner- 
stands where the frugal Italian regards his perishing 
wares according to his possible personal use of them; so 
long as they hold their form he has their salable sound 
spots in view; only when they are a shapeless mass of 
decay does he cease to regard them with speculation 
in his eyes. 

As the warm weather becomes an accomplished fact, 
the family marketer is disturbed by the consideration 
that some of the most attractive seasonable novel- 
ties are so exceedingly perishable that when they are 
bought in any quantity there is danger that they will 
spoil before they can be used. In view of this fact, 
present space will be devoted to devices for tempora- 
rily preserving perishable articles of food. Most per- 
ishable of all are the berries and early cherries ; as, if 
they are marketed at any distance from the locality 
of their production, they are apt to be over-ripe as the 
summer advances. The very early fruits are often 
plucked so unripe that the bruises incurred during 
transportation cause premature decay ; and a few 
of the larger fruit, like the medlar pear, incline to the 

"Most putrefied core, so fair without." 

But little can be done to keep ripe fruit fresh except 
to protect it from heat and moisture, or to cover it 
with sugar. 

With berries, for instance, if the hulls are on, do not 
remove them, and lift the berries by them; carefully 
reject the decayed ones, and separate those which are 
over-ripe from the firm ones. If they are in baskets, 
see that the wicker-work of the sides and bottom is 



22 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



quite dry. Wipe off with a dry cloth any juice which 
the berries may have shed. Do not wash the berries, 
even if they are sandy; leave the washing until they 
are served. Lay the berries lightly in the baskets, so 
that they will not crush, and keep them in a cool, dry 
place; they keep best in a current of dry air — for in- 
stance upon a window-sill where no sun or dust falls ; 
if it is necessary to put them in the refrigerator, be sure 
that no water can fall upon them from melting ice. 
The over-ripe berries keep best if hulled and covered 
with sifted sugar. The best method personally reached 
is this: directly the berries come into the house, sepa- 
rate the over-ripe from the sound ones, hull them, and 
cover them with sifted sugar; leave the hulls upon the 
sound berries, lay them on large platters so that they 
do not touch, and keep them in the coolest place avail- 
able; they will shrink a little after keeping them over- 
night, owing to the action of the air, but very few 
will spoil if the berries are of ordinarily firm sub- 
stance. Some berries, especially some of the large 
fancy varieties, are so soft and juicy that a single day 
after they leave the vines they become too frail to 
handle, resolving into a watery pulp. After the first 
experience the buyer would do well to remember that 
such fruit is the best kind to leave in the dealer's pos- 
session. Of course, where berries can be brought 
fresh from the vines, these suggestions are superflu- 
ous; but they are valuable to city dwellers, especial- 
ly when the Sunday supply of fresh fruit is in ques- 
tion. 

Cherries generally keep well ; but when a second or 
third day's supply has to be considered, those should 
be chosen which are firm and rather under-ripe; they 
should be carefully looked over, the broken and de- 



THE PURCHASE OF FOOD. 23 

cayed ones rejected, and the over-ripe ones stoned and 
sugared. If the whole cherries, on the stems, are placed 
in the ice-box for two or three hours before using, the 
entire fruit will become covered with a most enticina: 
bloom upon exposure to the air of the dining-room. 
More will be said about cherries in due season, and 
recipes given for cooking them. 

Next to fruit, green vegetables are the most perish- 
able market commodities. Some suggestions have been 
made as to the treatment of vegetables, but it ^vi\\ not 
be superfluous to add that much of their excellence 
depends upon their freshness, especially if they are to 
be used uncooked in salads. After they have been 
washed, and the decayed and bruised parts removed, 
they will keep best in a cool, dark place, wet enough 
to preserve their freshness, but not immersed in water. 
It is a mistake to leave them in water after they have 
become fresh and crisj); but they should be freely 
sprinkled, and covered with a wet cloth; they may 
be placed in a cellar, or in the refrigerator, wrapjoed 
in wet cloth. Cooks sometimes hasten the decay of 
parsley, lettuce, and celery by leaving them for a long 
time in water, especially if the water is unchanged. 
It should be remembered that the addition of a 
handful of coarse salt to a large pail or tub of water 
lowers the temperature decidedly, and quickly revives 
wilted vegetables; but to allow lettuce to remain long 
immersed in it is to destroy the substance of the 
delicate leaves. After the rooted vegetables, such as 
kohl-rabi and radishes, are freshened, they should be 
taken from the water and kept only moist. The ef- 
fect of soaking them for any length of time is marked 
by the odor which they impart to the water; this is 
to be noted particularly in the case of radishes; the 



24 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR, 

water becomes decidedly offensive if they remain in 
it, and tliey lose color as well as some of their char- 
acteristic pungent flavor. 

Fish which is to be kept overnight may be salted, 
corned, or put into a onarinade, or pickle; the same 
method of preservation will answer for any fish, and 
below are some recipes given as examples. For salt- 
ing shad: After the fish has been scaled, split it down 
the back, remove the backbone and entrails, wash it 
in cold water, lay it skin down on a platter, sprinkle 
it rather thickly with salt, dust it with pepper to keep 
off the flies, and let it stand overnight; the next day 
brush off any salt that shows, broil the fish or fry it 
as if it were fresh, and serve it with butter and lemon, 
or any acid table sauce. Fish for corning should be 
entirely immersed overnight in brine made by boiling 
water very strongly salted, and allowing it to cool be- 
fore putting the fish into it. Blue-fish is good corned; 
it may be broiled, boiled, or baked. If it has been 
long enough in the brine to be too salt for eating, 
freshen it by soaking in cold water. Any oily fish, 
such as mackerel, salmon, or sturgeon, may be j^ickled 
by immersion, after cleaning, in a marinade made by 
boiling together equal parts of vinegar and water, 
with the addition to each quart of liquid of a table- 
spoonful of mixed whole cloves, pepper, allspice, mace, 
and bay-leaf. Pickled fish is best when broiled, and 
served with parsley and lemon, or with chopped gher- 
kins, capers, or pickled onions. 

It may be said in passing that when a can of pickled 
or salted fish is opened, such as salmon, sardines, 
mackerel, or bloaters, the fish should at once be taken 
from the can; and if it is not all used it should be 
kept in a cool place in an earthen dish. A pickle of 



THE PURCHASE OP FOOD. 



25 



vinegar, salt, and water poured over such fisli insures 
its preservation, while exposure to the air has been 
known to generate an actively poisonous property in 
less than twenty-four hours. 

Cream is usually expensive, but it can be included 
in our list of indulgences if the milk used is good; and 
it is most acceptable with berries and fresh peaches. 
To separate part of the cream from the family supply 
of milk, and serve it in a little pitcher as a luxury, 
is certainly an excusable proceeding. The grade of 
milk now sold in New York and other cities where 
the Health Board does its duty is far better than it 
was ten years ago; and in the country, where pure 
milk is obtainable, we may take the liberty of jug- 
gling in harmless fashion. As a matter of fact, pure 
milk from which part of the cream has been taken is 
sufficiently palatable and nutritious for ordinary table 
use ; certainly it is good enough for cooking ; the 
most exact of experts could hardly tell whether a 
pudding or biscuit were made with entire or skimmed 
milk. In Aveather which permits keeping milk, let it 
stand in a cool place, protected from dust and flies, 
for twelve hours; then dip off half the layer of cream 
from the surface, and stir the rest down into the milk; 
it will be quite good enough for ordinary family use. 
Invalids and children can have entire milk for drink- 
ing kept by itself, but from the two or three quarts 
which constitute the daily supply of the average fami- 
ly more than half a pint of cream can be taken with- 
out any marked deterioration. One thus "robs Peter 
to pay Paul," but there is some satisfaction in doing 
it, and the ailing child, the invalid who needs extra 
nourishment, or the family favorite wall profit by the 
theft. If milk is warmed in shallow pans by gentle 



26 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



heat until a thin skin begins to wrinkle and dimple 
upon its surface, and tben carefully set away from the 
fire without shaking the pans, the quantity of cream 
will be increased, and the milk will keep the better 
for the scalding; it must not be allowed to boil, how- 
ever. Milk and cream should be kept in covered jars 
or pitchers, in a cool place; the fact should be re- 
membered that both quickly absorb bad odors and 
atmospheric taints; too great care cannot be given to 
keeping them fresh and sweet. 



GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. ^ 27 



CHAPTER III. 

GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. 

To insure success under our conditions of manage- 
ment a continual oversight is imperative over all food 
products on the part of the mistress of the house; 
equally must she be conversant with market prices, 
qualities of goods, and seasonable foods, in order to 
keep a check upon the tradespeople who supply her 
larder. She must do the most of her own marketing, 
especially for perishable materials, unless she adopts 
the co-operative system described in the last chapter. 
The subject of marketing can be treated only inci- 
dentally, but the cost of the staples of living must be 
fully considered. 

In these days of rapid railway facilities there is less 
difference in the prices of staples in the larger cities 
than there was ten or fifteen years ago, with the ex- 
ception that the highest prices prevail in our North- 
eastern States. This difference is the more notice- 
able, since farther north, in the Canadian markets, the 
average is below that which prevails thoughout the 
States, and nearly 50 per cent, less than in the East. 
While prices are comparatively less than they w^ere 
ten years ago, the quality of goods is improved, 
especially of grocers' sundries, and the variety is ex- 
tended. 

Noting from retail lists, the fluctuation of prices is 
less than in the wholesale trade. This is notably 



28 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the case at the smallest stores, presumably because 
their runinng expenses vary but little, while they 
handle comparatively^ small quantities of goods, and 
incline to keep the slight advantage offered by any 
temporary decline in wholesale rates. Except, per- 
haps, in the price of sugar, the customers of small 
groceries pay an advance upon wholesale rates of from 
25 to 50 per cent., and upon retail market prices usu- 
ally about 30 per cent. Of course dealers argue that 
they must make this advance to compensate them for 
bringing market supplies within reach of their custom- 
ers, and sometimes customers prefer to pay the differ- 
ence rather than take the time and trouble to go to 
the markets. Those points are aside from our object, 
which is to see what can be done well under the care- 
ful supervision of the housewife willing to give time 
and attention to the question of economy, who will at- 
tend in person to marketing. To return for a moment 
to the prices at the smaller city groceries in ISTew 
York: the average retail up-town price for table but- 
ter is 35 cents, the market price 25; for lard, 16 cents 
as compared to 12; cheese 18 to 12; potatoes, 25 cents 
per half peck to 15 at the market. When flour and 
coal are bought in small quantities, the purchaser pays 
from two to five times their cost by the barrel or ton. 
Sometimes the larger retail dealers are alive to the im- 
portance of sharing Avith customers any decline in 
prices. The comparatively rapid sales made in large 
stores enable the dealers to place their customers' in- 
terests more in unison with the changing rates of the 
wholesale trade, particularly when cash payments make 
it possible for buyers to go where the most favorable 
rates prevail, notably to specialty shops, where sound 
goods are sold at low prices. As such shops are the in- 



GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. 29 

evitable result of competition in trade, there is no 
reason why buyers should not patronize them. 

In the matter of flour the average is from six to sev- 
en dollars a barrel, unless there is some local pressure 
to force the price upAvard temporarily. That has been 
the average price of good family flour, except in war 
times, for nearly a century. The finer grades of pastry 
flour are dearer, but they do not make good bread, 
and are less nutritious than the second and third 
grades. 

Judging by retail lists, it appears that the greatest 
difference in prices in the various cities in the States 
concerns meat, fish, and vegetable products. Dairy 
products and groceries range upon a close average. 
Family flour is sold at about the same figure in differ- 
ent places, unless there is some temporary local corner 
in the market. Upon the Eastern and Western sea- 
boards and near the Great Lakes fish is cheap and 
abundant. In the mid. -Western cities meat — notably 
beef — is good and much cheaper than in the East. 
Despite its possible unwholesomeness, pork is and will 
be a staple food; in fact, it always has constituted the 
chief animal food of the meat-eating masses, and prob- 
ably wnll so remain, because pigs are hardy and pro- 
lific animals, and can live and thrive W'here other live- 
stock w^ould perish. Apropos of the prevailing fad 
for drinking hot w^ater, the fact may be recalled that 
the ancient Roman populace drank it habitually with 
their meat diet of fresh pork, to promote digestion. 

There is greater variety in the markets of large 
cities upon railroad lines than there was ten years 
ago, especially in vegetables. The increased produc- 
tion of vegetables and fruits in the Southern States 
brings both into the market in early abundance. 



30 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Fresh tomatoes, radishes, cucumbers, onions, spinach, 
and some salads are to be found in large city markets 
even in January, at not unreasonable rates. In mid- 
winter, 1886-7, in New York, fresh tomatoes were 
from 30 to 50 cents a quart; radishes, 5 to 10 cents a 
bunch; cucumbers, 25 to 50 cents each; Valencia 
onions, 10 cents a pound; cauliflowers and egg-plants, 
about 30 cents each; and spinach, 25 cents a half-peck. 
All these, except perhaps the spinach, came from the 
far South. In fortunate California the same vegetables 
were sold respectively at 8, 2, 5, 1, 5, and 8 cents. The 
price of the same cuts of beef in the leading cities 
was at the same time, in Boston, 25 cents; in New 
York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, 20 cents; in Cleve- 
land, 12 cents; in Minneapolis, 18 cents; and in San 
Francisco, 20 cents. These figures are quoted to show 
that table estimates based upon New York prices will 
be applicable in different parts of the country; in 
fact, in several localities in the States and Canada our 
scheme of living can be more favorably followed than 
in New York, given the stipulated attention on the 
j^art of the housekeeper. 

The early Southern vegetables just mentioned can- 
not be included in the list of our usual supplies at our 
limited figure; they are quoted simply to show that 
the state of the market has improved rather than de- 
teriorated within the last decade. Despite the recur- 
ring cry of " hard times," the mass of people in this 
country are better fed and more cheaply clothed than 
they were a dozen years ago. If the prosperity of the 
country is to be gauged by the comfort of its people, 
we have gained ground. There is no time on our 
record when the masses have fared better than they 
do to-day, despite the fact just cited that they usually 



GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. 



31 



pay twice the actual price of staples because they buy 
in small quantities. 

Economy in the matter of table supplies is favored 
by the purchase in quantity of the less j^erishable 
foods, the price of which gives the buyer a favorable 
margin. Such dry groceries as flour, salt, coffee, and 
tea, and fresh, prime canned goods may be bought in 
bulk when the prices are reasonably low. Sugar is 
generally sold so close to the wholesale list that its 
considerable purchase becomes simply a matter of con- 
venience. Granulated sugar is generally considered 
the best value from an economic standpoint, because 
it is suitable for all household purposes; it is less lia- 
ble to adulteration than any other form of sugar, 
even cut loaf, and offers the advantage over that of 
being in such form as to preclude the use of any more 
than just the required quantity. The coffee sugars 
may be a few cents cheaper on the pound, but often 
their dampness so increases their weight as to more 
than balance the difference iij price, even w^hen their 
sweetening properties are taken into account. The 
light-brown sugars, notably the Demarara, are sweeter 
than the white grades. Although some of the darkest 
grades of moist sugar are sw^eeter than the refined 
sorts, they are handicapped with the positive sani- 
tary disadvantages of being laxative in their effect 
and of possibly harboring animalcules. Of the moist 
sorts Demarara sugar is the best; but it can seldom be 
bought in American cities, except now and then in 
Baltimore. The simplest way of testing the purity 
of sugar is to dissolve a little in clear water in a 
glass : if the sugar is quite pure, the w^ater will 
simply be slightly thickened, but not in the least 
clouded ; and there will be no sediment whatever. In 



32 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

keeping sugar it should be protected from dampness 
and from the inroads of vermin, especially of ants. 
After years of contest with these tiny storeroom 
pests, one is compelled to admit that there is only one 
effectual way to moderate them, and that is to proceed 
upon the understanding that there are no good ants 
but dead ones, and persist in treating the crevices 
from which they issue with boiling water until they 
are exterminated. 

As coffee improves by keeping, so long as it remains 
iinroasted, the condition of the market should indicate 
the extent of purchase. 

Flour, when bought by the barrel, seldom costs 
more than about four cents a pound for good family 
brands. The fact should be remembered that the so- 
called finest brands do not yield the best value for 
general purposes, because in milling nearly all their 
constituent parts except starch are set aside. Flour 
composed chiefly of starch is popularly supposed to 
make the best pastry ; but individual experience 
warrants the conclusion that the best puff paste can be 
made from good family flour, careful treatment being 
given to insure crispness and tenderness in the com- 
pleted pastry. So far as the question of bread is con- 
cerned, there can be no doubt of the fact that a mixt- 
ure of two or three of the cheaper grades with a 
small proportion of the best yields the most satisfac- 
tory results. A barrel of flour, weighing a little less 
than two hundred pounds, ought to produce some two 
hundred and sixty pounds of bread — an increase of 
about one third. Freshly ground flour does not make 
as good bread as that several months old. Flour 
should be protected from the air and from dampness, 
as both these causes favor the production in it of acari. 



GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. 



33 



or mites. The color of good flour is white, with a 
slight yellowish tinge; gray or bluish flour, or that 
containing black specks, is bad. To test flour, squeeze 
a little in the hand : if it remains in a lump, and shows 
the impression of the lines in the skin, it is probably 
good. A more conclusive test is to knead some with 
water in the palm of the hand : if the dough thus 
formed is tough and elastic, there is the proper pro- 
portion of gluten in the flour. If the dough is soft 
and sticky, it shows that the flour is made from wheat 
which has been wet, or has been overheated in grind- 
ing ; the bread made from it may soften in the oven, 
growing semi-liquid. The remedy for this is to with- 
draw it at once from the oven and knead in more 
flour, and then bake it quickly; but the bread will be 
poor. The dark streak that sometimes appears in 
bread is due to like causes, or because the flour is made 
from sprouted wheat, or occurs because there is an in- 
sufficient quantity of alcohol evolved during the proc- 
ess of baking. To remedy this, add a teaspoonful 
of alcohol to the dough intended for each loaf of 
bread while kneading it; the alcohol will evaporate 
during baking. The addition of alum to poor flour 
makes it whiter, and causes it to take up more water; 
although its use is to be reprobated when it is possible 
to obtain good flour, it does unquestionably improve 
the bread made from inferior flour when not more 
than an ounce is used to a hundred pomids of bread. 

The various forms in which wheat is sold — such as 
cracked wheat, shelled wheat, etc. — are excellent, and 
can be advantageously bought by the case. They 
must be kept in a perfectly dry place, shielded from 
the air. In common with oatmeal and Indian corn 
meal, they are valuable foods from an economical and 
3, 



34 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sanitary point of view, especially for children. There 
is no more vrholesome or agreeable breakfast dish than 
a well-made porridge combined with milk and sugar. 
It supplies the growing system with food for the 
blood, nerves, and brain; it should be u2)on the table 
at least once a day in every family where health and 
economy are considered. When time is an object in 
the morning, the dish of cereals for breakfast may be 
cooked the previous day, and either served cold, or 
heated quickly, without much stirring; to avoid stir- 
ring it is well to cook all cereals in a double kettle or 
farina boiler. An excellent breakfast dish is oatmeal 
boiled about two hours — or until it jellies — cooled in 
cups, and served on deep saucers or oyster soup-plates, 
with cream and fine sugar. Imported oatmeal is con- 
sidered superior to the American product by many 
persons, and it costs nearly twice as much. But the 
balance of excellence is maintained in at least one 
native production, which is thoroughly cooked during 
its manufacture. Like other cereals, oatmeal is in- 
jured by sea air; the superiority of foreign varieties 
is impaired unless they are imported in hermetically 
sealed tin cases. The physical effect of jDorridge made 
from oatmeal, groats, and the other cereals is strength- 
ening and laxative, and its tendency to overheat the 
system can be counteracted by the judicious use of 
fruit and vegetables; in combination with them and 
with milk the foundation can be laid in childhood for 
the most vigorous physical and mental constitution. 
Finely ground oatmeal is more susceptible to adulter- 
ation than the coarser grades. Barley meal is the 
most ordinary addition; it is cheaper than oatmeal, 
and less nutritious. The black specks which some- 
times appear in oatmeal are generally particles of 



GENERAL SUPPLIES AND PRICES. 



35 



black oats which have not been removed before grmd- 
ing. As long ago as 1697 a pamphlet on economical 
living was published in London; it asserts that half a 
pound of oatmeal porridge is as nutritious as a pound 
of bread, and calls the porridge " hasty-pudding." 

Our American hasty-pudding is made from Indian 
meal, like the 2yole?ita of the south of Europe. It con- 
tains more oil and starch than wheaten flour, and equal 
flesh food. As an unmixed diet it can sustain health 
and strength longer than any other one food; com- 
bined with milk and sugar, maple syrup, or, better 
still, with salt pork or bacon, it is capable of sustain- 
ing the strength of laborers engaged in hard and pro- 
longed work. It costs about half as much as flour, 
and is more nutritious. Indian meal should j^resent 
a slightly granular appearance, and be sharp to the 
touch; if it is ground fine enough to be floury its 
goodness is impaired. It is not advisable to buy it 
in large quantities, because it deteriorates easily under 
the effect of dampness, especially that of the ocean. 

Rice, on the other hand, keeps well; the best grade 
is so semi-transparent that if it is laid on dark blue 
paper its color will take on the tint of the paper. 

Rye, which is more extensively used in Europe than 
in America, is less nutritious and more difiicult of 
digestion than any of the cereals already mentioned; 
but it keeps well, and is the source of great muscular 
force. 

Buckwheat contains less gluten than r3^e, and is 
consequently less manageable in cookery; it contains 
an excess of heat food, and for that reason is excellent 
for winter use in the form of griddle-cakes. Buck- 
wheat cakes, used with syrup or meat gravy, or with 
sugar and butter, are a favorite winter breakfast dish; 



36 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

if cooked with sausage, or in camp-style with the 
drippings of salt pork or bacon, their nutritive value 
is abundant, and the dish is satisfactory to robust 
appetites. 



MACARONI AND ITS COOKERY. 



37 



CHAPTER IV. 

MACARONI AND ITS COOKERY. 

Next to bread, the most valuable form in which 
wheat is marketed is macaroni. Within the past ten 
years it has become a favorite American food, but its 
treatment is not so well understood as it should be. 
As it constitutes one of the most important auxiliary 
lines of economic dishes, ample consideration will be 
given to it; and the rest of this chapter is commended 
as entitled to earnest study from the housekeeper who 
intends to profit from this work. 

Macaroni is made of the best wdnter w^heat, and con- 
tains all the elements required to nourish the system. 
As compared with wheaten bread, Payen estimates 
that good Italian macaroni contains one third more of 
the elements of complete nutrition. And when cooked, 
with the addition of meat drippings or gravy, or with 
butter or cheese, it may often take the place of a dish 
of meat when their relative cost is an item of impor- 
tance. 

Since macaroni has become a usual dish, and par- 
ticularly since our Italian population has increased, a 
considerable quantity is made in this country, the 
quality of which varies decidedly. Good macaroni is 
slightly yellowish, as contrasted with a poor white, 
pasty-looking variety. Genoa macaroni is slightly 
colored by infusing saffron in the water with w^hich it 
is made. Sometimes eggs are mixed with the maca- 



38 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



roni dough, giving it a yellow tint ; this color in the in- 
ferior grades is obtained by the use of chrome yellow, 
a poisonous compound, to the use of which certain 
mysterious deaths were traced in Philadelphia, in 1887. 
Naples macaroni is made simply of flour and pure 
water, and when cooked Naples fashion has a greenish 
tinge. Formerly no good macaroni was made in 
America; the Italian stores sell the Genoa brand, 
which is the best, from ten to fifteen cents a pound; 
upon boxes, holding twenty-five pounds, a deduction 
of about a cent a pound is made. Macaroni is now 
largely manufactured in San Francisco, Pliiladeli^hia, 
and New York by Italians, who can produce a quality 
equal to the imported when they use the best flour of 
winter wheat. It is said that macaroni, like all cereal 
foods, deteriorates during long sea-voyages. 

There are two ways of mixing the macaroni: one by 
grinding the flour and water with a marble grindstone 
set in a circular trough ; the other, the primitive Italian 
method, by kneading the flour and water to a stiff 
dough — about a gallon of water to thirty pounds of 
flour — and then working it with a lever fastened to 
the wall above a large circular platform of wood, the 
lever describing short arcs as it is moved back and 
forth, and rises and descends upon the mass of dough 
upon the platform. It is a singular fact that up to 
this point the process is identical w^ith that of making 
the matzo, or unleavened bread eaten by the Hebrews 
durinof the Passover. The matzo douo-h is rolled to 
the thinnest paste, stamped out in large round cakes, 
and then baked. Macaroni dough is pressed through 
holes so arranged in the bottom of a large copper cyl- 
inder containing a screw press worked by levers, that 
tubes of the dough are forced downward through the 



MACARONI AND ITS COOKERY. oq 

holes ; these tubes are cut off in desired lengths, and 
either hung over wooden bars raised upon supports, or 
laid upon frames covered with cloth, and thoroughly 
dried from eight to ten days. The tubes are called 
macaroni, mezzani, and spaghetti, according to their 
size. The dough is also cut into ribbons, melon-seeds, 
or semenze cli melloni, capelletti^ or little hats, and occlii 
di pernici, or birds' eyes. Like all the cereal foods, 
macaroni should be kept in a perfectly dry storeroom. 
Americans usually make the mistake of washing 
macaroni before it is cooked, and of cooking^ it too 
long, until it becomes pasty. We shall, therefore, 
hereafter give details of cooking it as Italians do, in 
the unbroken lengths they luxuriate in. 

"Mellifluous, mild macaroni, 
The choice of her children when cheeses are old. 
Lo! over me hover, as if by the wings of it, 

Frayed in the furnace of flame that is fleet. 
The curious curls, and the strenuous strings of it, 

Dropping, diminishing down, as I eat!" 

While it was still a comparatively infrequent dish 
upon American tables these two culinary errors were 
so often repeated in treating it that they became so 
stereotyped as to find their way into some quite good 
cookery-books. We are nothing if not accurate : con- 
sequently it must be insisted from the outset that Ital- 
ians probably know how to cook macaroni better than 
any other people; therefore their methods will be fol- 
lowed. Setting aside all suggestions about washing 
or soaking macaroni, if it seems at all dusty wipe it 
with a dry towel: let no water touch it except that 
which is actually boiling. Have ready a large sauce- 
pan of salted boiling water, plunge the macaroni into 
this — a quarter of a pound will make a good dishful — 



40 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

and boil it steadily until it softens; it must not boil 
to a soft paste, but only until a bit can easily be 
pinched off with the fingers. The length of time re- 
quired for boiling will vary with the size of the mac- 
aroni ; vermicelli will cook in three or four minutes, 
sj^aghetti in from eight to ten, mezzani, or ribbons, in 
about fifteen, and the large tubes in twenty minutes. 
A little margin of time is called for by the age of the 
macaroni ; if it is old and very dry, the time may be 
lengthened. When the macaroni is tender enough to 
break under gentle pressure it should be drained, 
thrown into a large panful of cold water, or held under 
the cold-water faucet in a colander until the little tubes 
are quite free from the glutinous coating extracted 
by boiling and lie separately in the dish ; the maca- 
roni will then be ready to drain from tlie cold water and 
finish according to any given recipe. Inferior macaroni 
assumes a white, pasty appearance, and splits during 
cooking; the good sorts keep their form and color. 

Italians always dress macaroni with several sauces 
or different kinds of cheese, so suggestions are offered 
for the simplest fofms of white, brown, and tomato 
sauces, to be used when there is not time to follow 
the elaborate recipes given in some of the foreign 
cookery-books. For the white sauce the foundation 
is the white roiix so often referred to in the author's 
cookery. But this and the brown roux can be made 
in quantity, and put down in jars or glasses ready 
for instant use. The quantity required to thicken a 
pint of sauce is a heaping tablespoonful each of but- 
ter and flour, stirred constantly over the fire until they 
bubble ; to make the sauce, stir gradually into the 7'oux 
a pint of boiling water and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper. The basis for all brown sauces is 



MACARONI AND ITS COOKERY. 



41 



hrown~7'oux, which is a tablespoonful each of butter 
and flour stirred over the fire until it is light brown, 
before the pint of boiling water and the salt and pep- 
per are added. If the flour is thoroughly dried before 
the fire and the butter clarified before making the 
roux, it will keep unchanged for months. Butter is 
clarified by melting it with gentle heat, and then care- 
fully straining it free from all sediment. Any good 
brown gravy can be used for macaroni. The plainest 
tomato sauce is made by mixing a cupful of fresh or 
canned tomatoes, which have been stewed and rubbed 
through a colander, w^ith half a pint of either white or 
brown sauce, or with any good gravy. A more elabo- 
rate tomato sauce, of delicious flavor, can be made by 
stewing a can of tomatoes with half a cupful each of 
sliced carrot and turnip, a small onion or a clove of 
garlic sliced, a teaspoonful each of broken bay-leaf, 
whole peppercorns, and salt, a dozen cloves, a stalk of 
celery or a few green leaves, a sprig of any sweet herb 
except sage, a little parsley, and a tablespoonful of 
either white or brown 7'oux; all these ingredients are 
to be simmered together until they are tender enough 
to rub through a sieve with a potato-masher. If the 
sauce thus made is thicker than necessary, it may be 
thinned with broth or water, and seasoned acceptably 
before it is used. 

The plainest Italian dish of macaroni is the farmer's 
dish, which is boiled macaroni heated with onions, 
peeled, sliced, and fried tender in oil or drippings. 
Palermo macaroni is first boiled, and then simmered 
for half an hour with a quarter of a pint each of brown 
and tomato sauce, and an ounce of grated Parmesan 
cheese to a quarter of a pound of spaghetti. Maca- 
roni with Parmesan is boiled, heated with one or more 



42 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sauces, so that it is moist but not sloppj^, then turned 
out on a hot dish, sj^rinkled plentifully Avith grated 
Parmesan cheese, and served at once. When the 
cheese is heated with the macaroni it becomes slightly 
stringy. A more elaborate dish is made with the ad- 
dition of meat. Use about a pound of beef without 
bone ; cut the fat in small dice, put it into the sauce- 
pan with a small onion peeled and sliced, and fry until 
the onion is brown ; then add half a pint each of sliced 
or canned tomatoes and Malaga wine, half a dozen 
mushrooms, the beef, and enough boiling water to 
cover all ; season the sauce liighly with salt and pej^per, 
and cook it gently until it will easily pass through a 
sieve after the beef is taken up ; heat boiled macaroni 
in this sauce, and then serve it. The beef may be 
used for some other dish, or cut in small bits and put 
with the macaroni. Two or three vears ao^o a dish of 
macaroni cooked with claret was quite the favorite at 
one of our best restaurants, and the secret of its prepa- 
ration was guarded for some time. The sauce was 
made by browning an onion, peeled and sliced, in two 
tablespoonf uls of butter ; then a tablespoonf ul of flour 
was stirred in and browned ; after that half a can of 
tomatoes, a head of celery chopped, a blade of mace, 
ten whole cloves, and a pint of stock or broth were 
added, and the sauce simmered for half an hour; at 
the expiration of the half-hour the sauce was strained 
and poured over a i^ound of boiled spaghetti, together 
Avith a pint of claret; the si^aghetti was set over the 
fire to heat, a quarter of a pound of grated Parmesan 
was stirred with it, and then it was ready to serve. 
This recij^e makes a large platterful of macaroni ; when 
less is required, the recipe must be divided projDortion- 
ately. 



MACARONI AND ITS COOKERY. 



43 



Naples spaghetti is boiled, and then heated with 
enough tomato sauce to moisten it, and just before 
serving it a tablespoonf ul of butter and two of grated 
Parmesan cheese are stirred well throuirh it. Fidelini, 
which is simply vermicelli dried straight, is heated 
with the butter, cheese, and a little salt, making an 
excellent dish. 

Leghorn macaroni is boiled, moistened with white 
sauce and the above-mentioned proportion of butter 
and grated Parmesan ; it is stirred over the fire until 
the cheese melts, and is then poured out on a hot dish 
and covered with hot tomato sauce. 

Calabrian macaroni is boiled, and served on a hot 
dish with layers of grated Parmesan cheese and toma- 
to sauce, the macaroni being first made very hot, with 
enough sweet butter to moisten it. The sauce is made 
by frying an onion, peeled and sliced, in an ounce of 
butter until it is yellow, then adding a quarter of a 
pound of ham, chopped, a bouquet of herbs, a quart of 
peeled tomatoes, and a pint of broth or water ; season 
the sauce with salt and pepper, simmer it for a half- 
hour, and then rub it through a sieve with a potato- 
masher. The bouquet of herbs is made by tying a 
sprig of any sweet herb except sage, a dozen cloves 
and peppercorns, a blade of mace, and a bay-leaf in 
the middle of a little bunch of parsle}^ 

The Spanish method of cooking macaroni, like many 
other Spanish dishes, calls for fresh pork. Two pounds 
of lean pork are boiled for three hours in water with 
a tablespoonful of salt ; the meat is then taken up, 
and a pound of macaroni boiled in the broth until 
tender, w4th two large tomatoes and a small red pep- 
per. While the macaroni is boiling, force-meat balls 
are made of a quarter of a pound of lean fresh pork 



44 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

chopped fine, a clove of garlic, a small onion, a table- 
spoonful of parsley, all chopped very fine, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, and formed into little balls by 
mixing in a raw egg ; the force-meat balls are fried 
brown, after being rolled in flour. They are added 
to the macaroni when it is tender, together with a 
quarter of a pound of cheese grated, and it is then 
served either with or without the boiled pork. 

The different kinds of macaroni are used in soups, 
after being first boiled in salted boiling water and 
washed in cold water. For the various dishes of 
macaroni the lengths of paste are cooked without being 
broken ; even if they are longer than the saucepan the 
paste softens quickly under the action of boiling water, 
and curls down into the water. Expert macaroni 
eaters take up the unbroken lengths to eat, but they 
can easily be divided with the fork. 

If any of these methods are followed, the result will 
prove far more acceptable than the solid mass of sticky 
paste that is too often set upon American tables, to 
the utter confusion of appetite and digestion. 

These recipes are in place here to show cause for 
buying macaroni by the box, at Italian stores, rather 
than by the pound at the grocer's ; even the best of 
these general dealers do not always keep the best Ital- 
ian macaroni, their assurances notwithstanding; and if 
a large box is bought it is well to have a fair variety 
of dishes from which to choose the method of the day. 
There need be no unnecessary haste in using up the 
contents of the box; good Italian macaroni keeps well, 
if the storeroom is dry and free from vermin. 



CANNED GOODS. 45 



CHAPTER V. 
can:n^ed goods. 

When supplies are bought by the quantity there 
must be a storeroom that is kept locked; not neces- 
sarily because servants are either wasteful or dishon- 
est, but because the natural impulse is to use largely 
from quantities. And the mistress must distribute the 
stores herself, learning to a nicety how much is re- 
quired for actual use, and keeping a most careful over- 
sight upon the condition of her stores, so that none 
may be lost from decay or mouldiness, because such 
loss would more than balance the economy of whole- 
sale purchases. 

In addition to flour, salt, sugar, tea, and canned 
goods, meat may be bought by the quantity either in 
w^inter, Avhen the temperature of the open air will freeze 
it, or when in warmer weather there are the proper 
refrigerating facilities. This is of the utmost impor- 
tance. Much of the illness caused by eating bad meat 
can be traced directly to some taint in the meat. 
The dangerous attacks of trichinosis that follow the 
use of unhealthy pork are not in question, because that 
point calls for more lengthy consideration than can be 
given here. Aside from that terrible disease, the phys- 
ical disturbances arisino^ from the use of bad meat are 
usually blood-poisoning, or the presence in the system 
of some active poison caused by putrefaction in the 
meat, or by the chemical action of some metal, or of 



46 FAMILY LIVING ON $530 A YEAR. 

the atmosphere, upon canned meat. The greatest care 
should be exercised in regard to canned meats. Only 
those should be bought that are put up by the most 
reliable houses. The fact is unquestioned that the 
introduction of canned goods to the general market 
caused great improvement in the commissariat of 
armies, navies, and exploring expeditions. Nor is the 
fact forgotten that without canned goods, put up in 
tin, parties remote from the reach of civilization would 
be 2:)ractically deprived of fresh food. Hunters, miners, 
humanity's advance guard of road-builders, would suf- 
fer greatly Avithout abundance of such fare; but, de- 
spite all this, there seems to be no good reason why 
any of the cautions should be withdravrn which Avere 
originally published in Harper's Bazar in regard to 
canned goods. The assertion was made and is here 
repeated, that there can be no absolute safet}^ in the 
continuous use of canned fish, poultry, acid fruit and 
vegetables, and meats until they are put up in glass, 
as many goods are which are intended for family' use. 
The use of a small cloth bag to enclose the canned 
food within tins is of questionable advantage when 
there is any danger of metallic poison, but it at least 
indicates consideration on the part of the packers. 

The foreign custom of using glass in canning choice 
grades of goods has caused a few American packers 
to employ it to some extent in preserving shell-fish and 
pickled goods. And some ladies, who put up special- 
ties, use glass for vegetables and mince-meat as well 
as for pickles and fruit. But the various preserved 
meats and poultry are chiefly tinned. Next to choos- 
ing goods from a reputable house, see that the ends of 
the cans do not bulge outward; this indicates the pres- 
ence of deleterious gases created by some abnormal 



CANNED GOODS. 



47 



and injurious condition of the contents of the can. 
See, also, that there is not more than one small punct- 
ure in the end of the can; one hole is left unsoldered 
until the entire j^rocess of preservation is complete. 
When there is more than one small soldered place it is 
pretty good evidence that the tin has been punctured 
to permit the escape of gases at some period subse- 
quent to the original closing of the can. Some unre- 
liable dealers buy canned goods after the tins are 
bulged by fermentation; and, after puncturing the 
tin, boil the cans and their contents, and then solder 
up the little holes. This operation simply checks the 
progress of fermentation, but does not restore the 
goodness of the articles so treated. The practice in 
vogue among careful housekeepers of reboiling their 
preserved goods is different, because they watch them, 
and as soon as they detect any sign of fermentation 
they check it by immediate boiling, before it has time 
to seriously inpair the article in question. 

As these observations occasioned some comment 
when first published, it is but fair to repeat the only 
points made by the critics who took exception to 
them. 

1st. That the presence of two punctured holes in 
tins is not always evidence that the contents have been 
reprocessed on account of fermentation, because some 
manufacturers of canned goods reprocess all their pro- 
ducts, i. e., puncture them after once boiling or steam- 
ing them, repeat the cooking, and then solder the 
second set of holes. The necessity for this operation 
may well be questioned by any one who has for years 
used the French canned goods, where no puncture at 
all is to be observed; this, however, is a point upon 
which only experts are entitled to a hearing. 



48 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

2d. That the general use of glass is impossible, be- 
cause of the double danger of breakage in transjoorta- 
tion, and from the change of weather in high northern 
latitudes. Nevertheless, food of any kind where acid, 
in any shape or degree, has been used in the preserva- 
tion, should not be bought in tin. Many cases of so- 
called poisoning by canned goods are noted in the 
press, but the progress of investigation is seldom ac- 
curately followed to a definite conclusion. In a case 
of poisoning which was clearly traced to the use of a 
box of sardines that had been opened for some days 
and partly used, there was no show of mould or ap- 
j^earance of fermentation; this case is mentioned simply 
as a caution, although its authority is unquestionable. 
The trouble probably had its origin in some atmos- 
pheric action upon the sardines or the oil in which 
they were canned. Although the thorough boiling to 
which they were subjected during the process of pres- 
ervation would destroy any deleterious germs present 
in the fish at the time of canning, the lapse of time 
between the opening of the box and the second use of 
its contents was sufficient to permit the fresh intro- 
duction of injurious bacteria from the atmosphere, or 
there might have been some poisonous element gener- 
ated as the result of some action of the acid in the oil 
on the tin or the solder after it came in contact with 
the air. The experiments of M. Gautier, a French 
scientist, show that the lead used in soldering tin cans 
is more readily appropriated by fatty substances than 
by ordinary vegetable matters; especially the oil used 
in preserving fish shows a tendency to develop an acid 
which unites with the lead in a poisonous form rather 
than with the tin from which the can is made; the 
lead is so much more easily affected than the tin that 



CANNED GOODS. 



49 



the injurious results attending the action of the acid 
on the lead are first perceived. Tin is not a poison ; 
indeed, it was one of the remedies of early medicine, 
recognized even within a quarter of a century. But 
the fact that certain vesretable acids in contact with 
air act unfavorably on tin as well as lead, emphasizes 
the caution to empty all cans as soon as they are 
opened. 

The muriate of zinc, sometimes used in soldering tin 
cans, is a saturated solution of zinc in muriatic acid, 
diluted with from three to seven times its bulk of 
water; although poisonous, it is not likely to penetrate 
the can, as it is only brushed upon that outer part 
which is to be covered with solder, and as any excess 
of the liquid would cool the soldering iron, thus di- 
recting attention to possible danger. In passing it 
may be said that the quantity of copper present in a 
can of vegetables colored by its use is from 2 to 2.6 
grains, not enough to prove injurious if received into 
the system; but it is not assimilated in the least degree, 
and consequently cannot exert any deleterious action. 
The anathemas of the various health boards asfainst 
French canned pease and other green vegetables would 
seem hyi^ercritical were it not that some vegetable 
acid might possibly affect the copper to an injurious 
extent. During some twenty years' use of such goods 
no such condition has even. been noticed. 

Concerning the value of canned goods among large 
bodies of men there is ample testimony. One of the 
best purveyors of the United States Army, Major-gen- 
eral Hawkins, considers prime canned goods superior 
to those so-called fresh products which have been ex- 
posed to variable weather in transportation and im- 
perfect keeping in the market-stalls. He makes the 
4 



50 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

following valuable suggestion concerning their use : 
" Before using a canned article it is advisable, if prac- 
ticable, to place it where it will be subject to a mod- 
erately warm temperature for a few hours, and if the 
warmth causes it to bulge it should not be used." 
Care should also be taken to remove the contents of 
every can as soon as it is opened ; if it contains beans, 
pease, asparagus, carrots, turnips, or any vegetable of 
firm substance, it is well to w^ash them by running 
cold water over them before heating them for the 
table. To point the necessity for not allowing canned 
goods to stand exposed to the air it may be well to 
remind housekeepers that canned salmon left exposed 
to the ordinary summer heat of 75° F. has been known 
to reach a condition favorable to the development of 
bacteria — the germs of all putrefaction — in less than 
twenty-four hours. The action of cold is favorable 
to the preservation of canned goods; even freezing 
does not impair their flavor. 

Lieutenant Greeley says that his supplies of this 
character were repeatedly frozen and thawed during 
two years in the Arctics, without deterioration except 
from the candying of a few preserves and the burst- 
ing of some glass jars. 

Sir Garnet Wolseley says that, judging from his ex- 
perience in India and Egypt, prime canned goods do 
not undergo damage from any climatic heat. Un- 
cooked food, such as butter, cheese, and some potted 
goods, are injured: he objects to the overcooking of 
meat; a point which must be appreciated by any con- 
sumer of the so-called roast meats of the best English 
brands, which will not keep their form pending re- 
moval from the tins. 

A few words about domestic canning. 



CANNED GOODS. 



51 



In these days when factories for canning fruits and 
vegetables are scattered all over the country, and when 
some of our finest tree-fruit is evaporated in the or- 
chard where it grows, home preservation would seem 
suj^erfluous if the quality of the manufactured article 
could be depended upon. The secret of success in 
canning seems to be thorough cooking in intense heat, 
and subsequent total exclusion of air. It is difficult 
to accomplish these results w^ith the appliances at com- 
mand in ordinary kitchens, and only long-continued 
boiling will accomplish it if the. articles to be canned 
are cooked in the jars; this method involves the use 
of steam-tight kettles for boiling. All fermentation 
is the consequence of the presence of microbes, w^iich 
can be killed only by the action of high heat; no fer- 
mentation can take place if these living atoms are 
killed and no more are admitted to the preserved sub- 
stance with the air. 

Aj^pert's process, discovered early in the present 
century, is the one upon w^hich all subsequent ones are 
based. It was over forty years before tin cans took 
the place of Appert's glass jars to any extent. One 
great advantage of glass jars is that fermentation can 
be seen directly it sets in, Avhile it is not suspected in 
tin until the ends of the cans bulge. The discovery 
of gold in Australia and California, and the necessity 
for overcoming scurvy on long voyages, led to the 
use of tin receptacles for preserved foods; the civil 
war in the United States increased the demand great- 
1}^, and led to many improvements. The use of tin 
cans implies the necessity of removing the contents 
once a can is opened, a point which has already been 
emphasized. 

Glass cans are now in general use in households; by 



52 FAMILY LIVING ON 1500 A YEAR. 

separating them with straw or a rack in the boiler, 
and by putting them over the fire in cold water, the 
danger of breakage is lessened during the operation of 
canning. Fill the cans with vegetables washed or 
peeled, adding a little salt or sugar at will, and only- 
water enough to cover them, screw on the covers of 
the jars, and boil them at least three hours; then cool 
them, again screw down the covers, and before put- 
ting them away stand them on the tops to make sure 
they are tight. If properly boiled and closed, and 
kept in a dark, cool place, the vegetables will not 
spoil. If they are first boiled, put scalding hot into 
the cans, and then closed air-tight, they will require 
to be cooked only until they are tender. A short 
method of canning vegetables at home is a favorite 
one in the West. Pack cut corn, pease, or any vegeta- 
ble down in the jars, adding a little salted water, and 
steam, until the vegetables are tender, in a boiler with 
a rack or straw; the cans are then filled up with actu- 
ally boiling water, and closed while their contents are 
boiling hot, being screwed tight after cooling. If the 
cans are air-tight the vegetables keep very well. 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 53 



CHAPTER VI. 

THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 

In buying meat several points bear u^Don the eco- 
nomical aspect of the question; without doubt an ad- 
vantage in price can often be secured by making large 
purchases, but this would be lost if any of the sujoply 
spoiled before it could be used. We must then accept 
the fact that the quantity purchased must be regulated 
by one's facilities for keeping it. In the country, where 
tough meat is generally one of the trials, there are 
usually better ways of keeping food than in the city, 
where one small ice-box is expected to replace the cel- 
lar, the milk-room, and the well or sj^ringhouse. The 
great disadvantage of the ice-box is the fact that there 
is too little room to permit the various foods to be 
covered or kept in separate compartments. Although 
our present consideration is for meat, the point must be 
marked in passing that under no circumstances should 
milk be kept uncovered; the facility with which it 
takes on the qualities of its surroundings cannot be 
better illustrated than by reminding our readers that 
if game absolutely tainted is soaked in milk it loses its 
extreme highness so far as to become eatable. 

When butchers have large icehouses they are gen- 
erally willing to keep meat for their customers if they 
will buy it at its fresh weight; in a good icehouse the 
shrinkage is not great enough to balance the advan- 
tages of buying by the quantity. The difficulty in the 



54 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

way of the wholesale purchase of meat often is the 
want of skill upon the part of the cook to treat the so- 
called undesirable pieces so as to produce acceptable 
dishes. After the roasts and the steaks or chops are 
considered, cooks do not always know how to trans- 
form the other parts into dishes that shall be equally 
appetizing and nutritious. A good cookery-book is in 
order here. The fact is not generally known among 
marketers that the fore-quarter of meat is the most 
highly flavored and tender. If any one wants proof, 
let a chuck steak, cut from good beef that has been kej^t 
long enough, be compared, after equally careful cooking, 
with a sirloin or round steak from the same carcass. A 
great many butchers use the fore-quarter at home from 
preference. The price of the fore-quarter would hard- 
ly influence their choice, and this part is not unsalable. 
It does not keep as well as the hind-quarter, espe- 
cially when cut from young meat. The parts that 
taint first are those adjoining the veins and the tubes 
or pipes of the throat, consequently it is well to cut 
all these membraneous passages away before putting 
the meat in the ice-box or cold room. In preparing 
meat for use the Hebrew butchers do this as part of 
the process prescribed by the old religious laws con- 
cerning food. The hind-quarter is not so easily freed 
from veins, and therefore from blood, *' which is the 
life"; and for this reason, as well as because it con- 
tains that important nerve centre, the sinew that the 
angel touched, in the hollow of the thigh, it is not used 
by orthodox Hebrews. The breast of the fore-quarter 
was the part specified as food for the priests. The 
ancient Greeks sacrificed "the thighs, selected to the 
gods," and either broiled or roasted the remainder of 
the carcass in the Homeric feasts. 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 55 

The Hebraic method of slaughtering cattle is the 
best knowiij not only because it makes the use of dis- 
eased flesh impossible, but because the instantaneous 
infliction of death precludes the feverish condition that 
is caused by a prolonged death-struggle. The Rabbi 
de Sola Mendes, in describing the operation, says: 
" The principles underlying the Jewish mode of kill- 
ing animals for food are twofold; one dictates that as 
much pain shall be spared the animal as possible, the 
other that as much detrimental matter shall be removed 
from the dead carcass as possible, and that all possibly 
unhealthy flesh shall be rejected. The first aim is 
achieved by having the slaughtering knife^ or ^ challif,' 
as sharp as possible; it is brought to the most razor- 
like edge of keenness, and is tested by passing it over 
a hair hanging freely in the air, which must be sun- 
dered thereby, or the knife is not sharp enough. More- 
over, to spare the animal any sharp jag or tear in the 
wound necessary to be inflicted, the edge must possess 
no *pegima' or dent in it, and this is tested by passing 
the blade along the finger-nail or the highly sensitive 
tip of the tongue. If any nick, the slightest even, 
should be felt in it, it must be sharpened anew. The 
second object, the securing of as healthy meat as pos- 
sible, is secured by cutting the animal in the large 
arteries which are situated in the throat, besides spar- 
ing the animal pain by inducing swooning as soon as 
the brain is emptied of blood. The carcass, too, is 
speedily emptied as well, and so the element of rapid 
decomposition, the blood, is as well as may be drained 
from the body. But the meat is not yet declared fit 
for food until the principal parts, notably the lungs, 
have been ocularly examined for traces of disease, 
tubercles, etc., the appearance of which would cause 



56 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

its rejection at once. It will thus be seen that a proper 
* schocliet,' or slaughterer, must not only be well learned 
in these appearances, but must possess great manual 
dexterity and conscientiousness in the discharge of his 
difficult and disagreeable labors." 

The removal of the veins from the neck and fore- 
quarter is of the greatest importance in warm, muggy 
weather. It is moderate heat combined with moisture 
that makes meat spoil. Fierce artificial heat cooks it, 
and even the heat of the sun is intense enough in hot 
climates to perfectly cure meat, providing the air is 
dry. If a joint of meat is put into a cold oven and 
the heat gradually increased, the chances are that it 
wall spoil or taint before the degree of heat is reached 
which is required to cook it. Something similar oc- 
curs when frozen meat is exposed to the heat of the 
fire or of a warm room. All frozen meat, game, or 
poultry should be plunged into cold water, and kept 
in a temperature w^here the water will not freeze until 
the fibre is entirely relaxed. It would be better to 
throw frozen meat away than to risk tainting it by 
attempting to cook it before thawing it. Our arctic 
voyagers' records give diiferent suggestions, possibly, 
but the fact must be remembered that in the prevail- 
ing temperature they refer to frozen meat frequently 
had to be cut by the fire w^th axe or saw% and some- 
times was eaten while still frozen. Of course our con- 
ditions are those that generally prevail under the usual 
household routine in temperate regions. 

If meat or game is actually frozen it wdll keep until 
it begins to thaw; then the right conditions of heat 
and moisture will sooner or later occur that favor putre- 
faction. After it is once frozen or thoroughly chilled, 
any exposure to moderate temperature will cause it to 



TUE ECONOMICAL PUECHASE AND USE OF ISIEAT. 



57 



taint rapidly. In damp summer weather meat that 
has been in the icehouse will spoil sooner than that 
which has not been exposed to any lower than the pre- 
vailing atmospheric temperature. Each of these j^oints 
has its economic bearing when wholesale purchases 
are contemplated; otherwise these pages would not be 
weighted with them. 

If the fore-quarter of meat is the best-flavored and 
cheapest, the hind-quarter yields relatively more flesh 
in proportion to fat and bone, especially in the leg; 
this is why a leg of mutton, a round of beef, or a ham 
is chosen when a substantial meal is required for large 
meat-eaters. In order to balance its first higher price, 
there must be an abundant accompaniment of the 
cheaper vegetables, and plenty of bread and other 
farinaceous foods, such as macaroni, rice, or Indian- 
meal mush, to furnish the bulk of the repast. 

The superfluity of fat, which is the characteristic of 
prime meat, must always be preserved in order to 
maintain the balance of expenditure ; there is more 
than is required for cooking or eating, and too often 
the excess is thrown away or put into that abomina- 
tion of waste and temptation, the cook's grease-tub. 
There is no need to leave on the meat, in order to pre- 
serve it, any more fat than will be required in cooking- 
it; and when either suet or drippings are intended for 
cooking, they should be fresh and sweet; then they 
acceptably replace butter. After drippings are tried 
out or clarified, they will keep as well as butter or 
lard; they are cheaper than good butter, and in gener- 
al estimation preferable to lard. A use will directly 
be suggested for them Avhich involves the greatest 
probable accumulation. These facts in mind, then, 
save all drippings ; keep them in earthen jars or in 



58 FAMILY LIVING ON $600 A YEAR. 

clean butter-tubs, and use tbem for potting, basting, 
frying, seasoning meat gravies and minces, basb, fried 
onions and fried potatoes, for making sauces for meat, 
game, and poultry pies, and for their pastry. Use 
mutton drippings only witli mutton or venison. 

When meat comes in from market, trim off all fat 
not absolutely required for cooking; this will be the 
excess about the kidneys and under the skin. For 
eating, epicures prefer the fat that lies upon the inner 
surfaces of meat, closely united to or incorporated 
with the flesh; leave as much of this as will probably 
be eaten, and cut tbe rest carefully away, entirely free 
from particles of meat. The suet or kidney fat is ex- 
cellent for mince-meat, plum-pudding, suet crust, and 
dumpling, and even for the most delicate puff paste, 
after it is specially treated; suet intended for these 
purposes may be kejot fresh for several days by entire- 
ly surrounding it with dry flour, as pastry is some- 
times kept by putting it into the flour barrel ; the suet 
will not imj^art any taste to the flour if it is good. 
From the outer surface of meat cut all the superfluous 
fat without any of the flesh; to try it out cut it in 
half -inch pieces, put it over the fire in a thick sauce- 
pan, and keep it where the fat will melt without brown- 
ing. As the fat melts, pour it into earthen vessels; 
when nearly all the oil is extracted the solid portions 
will begin to brown; these "scraps," nicely browned 
and salted, can be eaten with baked or boiled potatoes. 
Special directions will be given later for trying out 
lard, in space devoted to cutting up and curing a bacon 
pig. The last drippings, in which the scraps are 
browned, should be clarified, as should be all the drip- 
pings taken from soups, gravies, and meats during 
cooking. To clarify fat or drippings, put them into a 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 59 

saucepan witli plenty of cold water, and heat the water 
to the boiling-point; then take the saucepan off the fire 
and let its contents cool. When the fat is cold it can 
be lifted in large flakes from the surface of the water; 
if there is any dark sediment on the under side scrape 
it off; the clarified drippings can now be packed in 
jars, or slightly warmed and poured into jars or bowls. 
Each kind should be kept in separate vessels, in a cool 
place, and used with reference to the flavor it will im- 
part. Beef, pork, bacon or ham, veal, and poultry fat 
have marked individual flavors, and each is excellent 
when used judiciously. 

Marrow adds greatly to the excellence of certain 
cuts of meat. Nearly all the cuts which include a 
piece of the leg bone contain marrow, and generally it 
is boiled in the souj). Experience has brought the 
personal conviction that this is an extravagant use to 
make of a substance esteemed as a dainty. B}^ the 
long-continued boiling involved in the making of soup 
the substance of marrow is almost entirely disintegrat- 
ed, the smallest quantity of pulp alone being percepti- 
ble, while the oil of the marrow is indistinguishably 
mingled with the fat yielded by the meat. 

Even when the fat is eaten with the soup, or used 
for drippings, this is still a poor use to make of mar- 
row. The marrow -bone is of advantage to boil in 
soup ; in some parts of the bone, and particularly 
around the joints, the marrow is so incorporated with 
the substance of the bone as to be inseparable ; there 
will be enough to give the richness to the soup for 
which some cooks crave, if the bulk is otherwise used. 
Let the marrow-bone be cut away from the meat, di- 
vided with the saw in pieces two or three inches long, 
and these in turn so split apart Avith the cleaver as to 



60 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



permit the marrow to be taken out in unbroken por- 
tions. Marrow is so delicate in substance that if it is 
broken in small bits it will dissolve in cooking ; if it is 
very small it is practically wasted. After all has been 
extracted that can be taken from the bone in good- 
sized pieces, let the bone be chopped quite small and 
put into the soup-kettle. 

Marrow toast, marrow balls, and dumplings for 
soups and stews, and minced marrow are all delicious 
and very nutritious, especially for invalids suffering 
from any lung trouble. Marrow tisane is invaluable 
in cases of rapid consumption. The more extrava- 
gant ways of using marrow are in the form of a gar- 
nish for beefsteak, and as boiled or baked marrow- 
bones ; for boiling or baking, the marrow-bones are 
cut into three-inch lengths with the saw, washed in 
cold water, and tied up in separate cloths after being 
closed at the ends with a paste of flour and water to 
confine the marrow; they are plunged into fast-boil- 
ing water for two hours, or baked for about an hour; 
the cloth and paste are then removed, and the bones 
served upon a napkin or upon toast, with a sauce of 
butter, pepper, and salt, or wnth a little piquant table- 
sauce, or lemon. If the bones are intended to garnish 
beefsteak they are sawed in inch lengths, Avashed, and 
dried on a soft cloth; they are then broiled or fried, 
while the beefsteak is being cooked; the other garnish 
for the steak is fried potatoes and parsley; lemon may 
be used if desired ; beefsteak d la Bearnaise is gar- 
nished in this way. Marrow-bones thus used may still 
be boiled in the soup-kettle if they have been careful- 
ly handled at the table. Marrow tisane is made by 
melting a tablespoonful of finely chopped marrow in 
half a pint of milk, seasoning it palatably with salt, 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 



61 



straining it, and serving it in a warm cup or bowl with 
one or two thin, crisp crackers. Marrow toast is made 
by cutting the marrow from a shin of beef into half- 
inch bits, boiling it for one minute in salted boiling 
water, then draining it, and heating it again with a 
tablespoonf ul of chopped parsley, the juice of a lemon, 
and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper, while 
two or three slices of delicate toast are made, upon 
which to serve the marrow. MarroAV dumplings are 
made by mixing together half a pound of chopped 
marrow, a cupful of stale bread softened in milk, a 
tablespoonful each of dice of bread browned in but- 
ter and of chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of salt, a 
small half-saltspoonful of j^epper, six raw eggs, and 
flour enough to enable one to make up the dumj^lings 
or balls about as large as walnuts. Marrow dump- 
lings are either poached in salted boiling water until 
they float, or fried in hot butter, according as they are 
intended for soup or for a garnish. The dice of fried 
bread must be very small, and added to the dumplings 
just before they are cooked, so that the crispness of the 
fried bread may be preserved. Minced marrow is un- 
cooked marrow chopped rather small, quickly heated, 
with a little salt, pepper, and enough cold gravy to 
moisten it, and then served on delicate toast. 

These details illustrate a point of importance in our 
culinary scheme — the fact that small appetizing dishes 
can often be made from some trifling substance which 
under less close management would be absorbed in a 
larger dish, perhaps as a garnish. The economical 
value of garnishes is demonstrated when by their aid 
some small or cheap material is increased until a large 
and satisfactory dish is made. For instance, two slices 
of stale bread, half a cupful of drippings, the giblets of 



62 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

a chicken, and a tablespoonful of flour are not a for- 
midable list. Any kitchen can supply it in which a 
roast chicken or a fricassee is on the bill of fare, and 
when either dish is well prepared the giblets will not 
be specially missed. The liver is usually chopped in 
the gravy of the roast, which can be so prepared that 
it will not be absolutely necessary. Even if it is a 
favorite morsel entire, the dish now in question will 
give it in all its excellence, and make a delicious entree 
for dinner, or a breakfast or luncheon dish. First the 
bread is to be cut in about six large diamond or heart 
shaped pieces, and all the trimmings and crust into small 
dice. The drippings are to be put over the fire in a 
frying-pan, and when they begin to smoke the large 
pieces of bread are to be fried first, and then the dice, 
both being taken from the fat with a skimmer, as soon 
as they are light brown, and laid upon brown paper. 
While the bread is being fried the giblets are to be 
prepared. They consist of the heart, liver, gizzard, 
head and neck, feet, the tips of the wings, the kidneys, 
so called, if the bird is a cock, or the immature eggs if 
it is a hen. The gall is to be carefully cut away from 
the liver, the gizzard freed from the interior sand-bag, 
and the heart trimmed at the top; the feet are to be 
scalded in order to permit the skin to be entirely 
scraped away, and the ends of the toes are to be cut 
off; the head is to be skinned or entirely freed from 
feathers, and the end of the beak cut off; the neck is 
to be freed from feathers, and the windpij^e and gul- 
let removed ; the tips of the wings are to be singed 
and freed from feathers; the kidneys or eggs are 
to be cut away from the intestines. Then all these 
parts except the liver are to be cut in pieces of less 
than an inch, and washed in cold water. All the fat 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. 



63 



about the intestines is to be washed and utilized — it is 
excellent to put over a chicken while it is being roasted 
— or it may be cut up to try out for drippings. In 
that case the brown scraps are to be put into the lit- 
tle dish we are making, when it is nearly done. Old- 
fashioned cooks always cleaned the intestines by turn- 
ing them like the finger of a glove, and scraping them 
with the back of a knife after they have been washed; 
then again washing them in several waters, and finally 
scalding them, and cutting them in half-inch lengths. 
When all the giblets are ready to cook they should be 
dried upon a clean towel, rolled in flour seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and broAvned in the drippings in which 
the bread has been fried. When the giblets begin to 
brown, the liver should be taken up to avoid breaking 
it, the flour in which the giblets were rolled sprinkled 
and stirred among them until it is brown, and then 
enough boiling water added to cover them, and a pal- 
atable seasoning of salt and pepper. A good brown 
sauce will thus be made, in which the giblets are to be 
simmered until they are tender, the liver being put 
with them after they grow tender. When they are 
done, the fried bread is used to garnish the dish. 

It may appear frivolous to devote so much detail to 
a single small dish, but in just such details lies the 
secret of luxurious economy. The mistress should see 
that this dish is properly prepared once, in order to 
know what can be made of it, before trusting it to the 
maid. When the tendency is remembered of the aver- 
age woman cook to neglect the little touches which 
give character to such dishes, we cannot helj) wishing 
that they would emulate one trait of the Celestials 
they are so apt to despise; that is, their accuracy. 
Once show a Chinese cook how to do a thing, and the 



g4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

plan is never deviated from. Unless a reformation 
takes i^lace, in many kitchens cooks themselves will 
force employers to avail themselves of the comfort 
given by good Chinese servants. 

The treatment of bones in the kitchen is a matter 
of considerable possible economy. The substance of 
bone contains some of the most important elements 
of flesh and blood; these can be extracted only by 
slow and long-continued cooking, so that it is at once 
apparent that the bones of broiled, fried, and roast 
meat retain their nutritious properties. The maid 
should be instructed to lay them aside upon clean 
dishes, keeping separate those Avhich have been cooked 
in gravy or sauce, or served so, for the bones that have 
flour upon them in any form will not do to put into 
the kettle in which clear soup is made, because the 
flour would cloud it; but they are available for thick 
soups and sauces. At least five hours' continued cook- 
ing is required to extract the nourishment from bones. 
To entirely secure their nutritious properties they 
should be cooked nine or ten hours; that is, overnight 
or all day long. 

Some time an account will be given of Dr. Edward 
Smith's experiments showing the food value of bones. 
Sufiice it now to say that it is considerable. Because 
bones taint quickly, when meat is first bought all 
surplus bone should be trimmed off, chopped in small 
pieces, reserving the marrow to use as directed above, 
and then boiled long enough in cold water (allowing 
a pint of water to a pound of bone) to extract the 
nutriment. If seasonings and vegetables are added 
as directed in the making of clear soup, and the bones 
are boiled at least six hours, a good broth will be the 
result. A small proportion of veal bones, or of the 



THE ECONOMICAL PURCHASE AND USE OF MEAT. (55 

head and feet of animals, or the skin of fish when fish 
bones are being used — separate from meat bones, of 
course — will give a semi-gelatinous broth, which will 
thicken as it cools. When there is a large quantity 
of bones under treatment they should be boiled until 
the broth begins to jelly, so that it will harden when 
cooled; this gelatinous substance can then be dried 
thoroughly in a cool oven or in the sun and air until 
quite hard. In this state it will keep indefinitely, and 
be excellent as a basis for soups, sauces, gravies, and 
jellies. There is no more savory addition to a cold 
dish of meat, game, poultry, or fish than a jelly made 
from the skin and crushed bones, thickened when nec- 
essary with a little gelatine, and then clarified and 
cooked. For the use of our readers who are not 
familiar with meat jellies, explicit directions for mak- 
ing them will be included in the recipe for galantine, 
or boned turkey. Although galantines are usually 
considered expensive dishes, they can be made to play 
an important part in an economical mhiage, and are 
light and agreeable animal food for invalids. As well- 
made galantines keep well in a cool place, they are 
good reserves for luncheon and supper dishes, es- 
pecially for Sunday suppers and for high teas. 
5 



QQ FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER VII. 

HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. 

A FORE-QUARTER of beef will yield, when cut prop- 
erly, the following - named pieces, which should be 
treated somewhat after our plan in order to secure 
satisfactory results. If the number in the family is 
not at least four or five, it would not be wise to buy 
this large quantity of meat, except in early winter, 
when that portion which is to be used fresh can be 
frozen until it is required for cooking. Under other 
conditions there would be danger of loss by the spoil- 
ing of the meat. The beef chosen should be of me- 
dium weight and fatness. Exceedingly large beef, from 
prize animals, is over- fat; there is not only a greater 
proportion of fat to the entire carcass, but there is more 
fat interspersed through the flesh than can be assim- 
ilated during digestion. Every one knows that it is 
the food which we assimilate — tliat is, the food that is 
acceptable to the system — which is of use to us; physi- 
cians who investigate dietetics tell us that in normal 
health we require an average supply of the elements of 
food, not an excess of any one; therefore the medium 
way is as safe to follow in the prosaic matter of trying 
to live well as it would have been of old to Phaeton. 

An old market authority considers the beef of a 
spayed heifer, about four years old, the choicest. This 
yields cuts of medium size and weight, and fat enough, 
and free equally from the tough, sinewy parts of old, 



now TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. q^ 

hard-worked muscle that often remain in large an- 
imals which have been specially fatted, and from the 
rank flavor which is ajit to pervade old cow or ox beef. 
When the carcass shows back fat from a half inch to 
an inch thick, it is proof that the animal has been prop- 
erly nourished for several months, at least, before 
killing. The back fat is that upon the outside of 
roasts and steaks. If, instead of at least a quarter of 
an inch of clear, healthy-looking, yellowish-white fat, 
there is a soft, oily, muddy-looking fat, greasy to the 
touch, and tough instead of brittle; or, if there is a 
thick, semi - transparent, yellowish cartilage between 
the scant layer of fat and the flesh, it shows that the 
animal has been killed either too old, or while in a 
physical condition unfit for wholesome food. While 
the back and kidney fat are not excessive in medium 
good beef, the flesh is well marbled with it, and its 
color is clear yellowish-white, without any traces of 
blood, or any dark spots or kernels in its substance. 

The fore - quarter of beef gives thirteen roasting 
ribs, three neck pieces, the plate, navel, and brisket 
pieces, and the shoulder clod, cross rib, and shin. The 
size and names of these cuts do not differ greatly in 
the various markets. In Boston the cross rib is some- 
times called the shoulder - of - mutton piece, and in 
Philadelphia the boler piece, while in Boston the 
plate piece is called the rattle-ran; the terms for the 
lower-leg cuts, shin, shank, and leg, are interchange- 
able. Farther west the butchers naturally carry their 
local nomenclature with them, but all understand the 
different names. To cut up the fore-quarter, it is laid 
upon a block, with the outside exposed; the first cut, 
made with the aid of the saw, from the neck towards the 
lower end of the chuck ribs, takes off the shoulder clod; 



QQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

then the upper part or ribs is entirely separated from 
the under portion, comprising the cross rib, brisket, 
plate, and navel. The plate and navel pieces lie directly 
at the lower end of the prime roasting ribs; the cross 
rib is next the plate piece, under the first three chuck 
ribs; the brisket runs from the end of the navel piece, 
under the shoulder clod, and past the ends of the chuck 
ribs to the neck; the shin is the part of the leg which 
remains after the shoulder clod and cross rib are cut. 

If the weather is freezing, it is well to keep all the 
prime ribs — that is, the first seven — fresh for roasting; 
the chuck, which consists of six ribs, might be potted 
after the old Pennsylvania Dutch method, which will 
be given in detail, if there is any question of using 
them before they can spoil. Or they may be used in 
part as beefsteaks; the fact is not sufficiently well 
known that a prime chuck steak is as good as, if not 
better than, a lower sirloin; the steaks should be cut 
thick, the excess of bone trimmed off (and always 
used for souj)), and the cartilage of the shoulder-blade 
cut out; when these steaks are from good beef they 
are sweet and juicy, of fine flavor, and as tender as 
ordinary sirloin; from an economical standpoint, as 
well as from a sanitary one, the entire chuck ranks 
favorably with any other cut in the carcass. 

The chuck ribs make delicious d la mode beef, and 
pot roasts; indeed, these ribs are so heavy for use 
in a small family that it would always be well to have 
the lower or thin part cut off before cooking, and 
made into a separate dish; by this method that portion 
of the slice which is best in roast beef — that is, the 
part near the union of the rib with the backbone — 
would be at its best as a roast; and the part which is 
least desirable as a roast would come before us in an- 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OP BEEF. gg 

other and more acceptable form. The ends of roast- 
ing ribs are often a source of trouble to the house- 
keeper; the lean part is generally tough, as compared 
with the round muscle that lies at the large end, and so 
disproportionately mingled with fat as to be unpal- 
atable to many persons; if it is not w^asted upon the 
plates at table it is apt to be thrown aside in the 
kitchen as unavailable for anything but hash, and is 
sometimes thought too tough for that. In our scheme 
we cannot afford to waste so much simply for the 
doubtful satisfaction of putting a large roast upon 
the table. Of course it would not be possible to per- 
suade tlie butcher to sell only the available portion, 
so it devolves upon the housekeeper to use the un- 
desirable part in the best w^ay. In this case the 
best way is to cut it off uncooked, to trim away all 
surplus of fat (saving the fat to make drippings), and 
then to simmer the meat slowly in a good brown 
gravy until it is perfectly tender; the gravy can be 
easily made by putting the meat over a hot fire, in a 
saucepan without water, until the entire surface is 
brown, then dredging it plentifully with flour, and 
turning it about in the saucepan until the flour is 
brown; after that enough boiling water to cover the 
meat, and any preferred seasoning or spices can be 
added, and the saucepan covered and put where the 
gentle simmering of the meat will make it tender and 
juicy. The addition of any chosen vegetable after 
the meat has begun to be tender will increase the size 
of the dish and add to the flavor of the meat. 

The old Pennsylvania Dutch method of potting 
roasting pieces is most excellent. As it involves the 
use of a large quantity of fat, the necessity of saving 
every particle of uncooked fat and of drippings will 



YO FA^IILY LIVING ON 1500 A YEAR. 

be appreciated. All the raw fat not intended to be 
eaten is cut from the meat uncooked, divided into 
small bits, and "tried out" over a slow heat just 
strong enough to extract all the oil from the leaf fat; 
when the solid ^^ortions begin to brown the process is 
complete, and the fat may be strained; the brown 
" scraps," nicely salted, are very good with baked or 
boiled potatoes; they combine well with cold mashed 
or chopped potatoes for frying, or with samp or hom- 
iny to be used as a vegetable; a good "crackling 
bread " can be made from them, for which the recipe 
is given elsewhere. The necessary quantity of drip- 
pings being provided, the joints of meat are to be 
baked, roasted, or boiled nearly as well done as pre- 
ferred; they are then cooled; the drippings mean- 
time are kej^t warm enough to be semi -liquid; the 
pieces of meat are j^ut into Avooden or earthen vessels, 
being raised from the bottom by a plate reversed or 
a rack of skewers, and the melted drippings poured 
around and over the meat. When the fat cools, no 
air can penetrate it; and if the meat is kept in a cool 
place it will remain sweet and good indefinitely. 
There should be more than an inch of fat around the 
meat in every direction to perfectly exclude the air. 
When the meat is wanted for the table, the fat is 
scraped off and the meat quickly heated; the fat is 
then clarified and made ready for other use. If only 
one piece of meat is put into a vessel of suitable size, 
it will be found most convenient; but the old way 
sometimes included several joints, when the family was 
large. Any kind of meat, poultry, or game can be 
perfectly preserved by this method, if ou\y kept in a 
cool place, and very quickly heated Avlien required for 
the table. 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. >ji 

The roasting pieces disposed of, we shall have the 
plate, navel, and brisket for corning. Nearly every 
butcher has his favorite pickle; the plainest is a strong 
brine made by dissolving in cold water as much salt 
as it will receive, and then boiling and skimming it 
until clear; this brine is used cold. Another butcher's 
pickle is, to two gallons of cold water add four pounds 
of fine rock-salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and two 
pounds of brown sugar; thoroughly mix, and dissolve 
all these ingredients, and skim the brine until clear; 
it may be boiled, but it is used cold. This quantity 
will pickle fifty pounds of meat. The addition of 
molasses instead of half the sugar, and of Avhole spices, 
sweet herbs, bay leaves, and juniper berries to brine 
gives the meat cured in it a delicious flavor. The 
meat must not be frozen when put into the pickle, or 
still warm with vital heat. Nor should any one hope 
to restore tainted meat by pickling or salting it. But 
if by any mischance, in hot weather, untainted meat 
has become fly-blown, it should be quickly washed off 
with vinegar or strongly salted water. Sometimes this 
will happen w^hen care has been taken, for the green 
fly is a frequent and persistent pest, and may effect 
an entrance even into icehouses and meat-safes. The 
eggs hatch in a very short time — an hour or two; 
either the eggs or the larvas should be washed away as 
soon as they are discovered. The suggestion is far 
from pleasant, but fly - blown meat so treated is not 
positively injurious, as tainted meat is. Meat intended 
for pickling or corning should be rubbed with a mixt- 
ure of half an ounce of saltpetre and an ounce of 
brown sugar to a pound of salt; the addition of gin- 
ger, pepper, or ground spices would keep off the flies. 
Rub the mixture all over the meat several times dur- 



fj2 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

iiig the day, and keep the meat on an inclined board, 
so that the blood and brine can drain from it; this 
preliminary salting may last from one to six days, ac- 
cording to the weather. The meat is fit to put into 
brine as soon as the blood is extracted, and is salt 
enough to cook after five or six days' corning. Or it 
may be kept for an indefinite time in brine, or be hung 
to dry, or be smoked like ham or bacon. 

Hamburg beef is salted in a tub, with the herbs 
and spices scattered among the pieces, after they are 
thoroughly rubbed with salt and saltpetre mixed, and 
a heavy stone is laid on the meat; if in about three 
days a brine does not result that covers the meat, a 
little strongly salted water is poured in. The beef 
will be ready to use after three weeks. The propor- 
tion of pickle for fifty pounds of beef is four pounds 
of salt and four ounces of powdered saltpetre, well 
rubbed over the meat; the spices are two ounces of 
unground white pepper, a quarter of an ounce of juni- 
per berries, twelve cloves, two large blades of mace, 
and half a cupful each of broken ba}^ leaves, marjo- 
ram, thyme, and sweet-basil. The last-named ingre- 
dient can generally be found at herb-stores, or among 
the German shops. 

We have now remaining the shin, which is good 
first to boil in soup, and then to serve for hash and 
mince, for it gains flavor from tlie soup vegetables, 
and does not part with all its nutriment; the cross rib, 
which is good baked, stewed, made into a pot roast, 
or for beef d la mode; the shoulder piece, which is 
juicy, tender flesh, for pot roast, beef d la mode, bou- 
ille, minced meat, and spiced beef, the marrow in the 
bone adding to the excellence of the meat. The neck 
pieces are all that have not been considered; the meat 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. '73 

is sweet and well-flavored, and can be so treated in 
cooking as to become desirable on account of its nutri- 
ment; it makes good beef -tea, clear soup, mince-meat, 
hash, stews, and meat pies. For some of tlie least 
generally known ways of cooking the inferior parts of 
meat we shall give some recipes which will prove use- 
ful to every housekeeper. 

In previous pages we have considered the advisa- 
bility of purchasing meat by the quantity in cold 
weather, and indicated some ways of treating it. It 
may be well to go still further into the detail of pre- 
paring a few savory and digestible dishes from the 
least promising cuts, such as the smaller parts of the 
leg and the neck. The surplus of bone and fat is to 
be used according to the directions already given. 
The flesh of the leg and neck is juicy and well-fla- 
vored, but apt to be tough, even after it has been 
kept for some time. It is in order to remember that 
the hardest and toughest meat fibre can be softened 
by contact with vinegar or sour wine. We receive 
that knowledge from the French, who marinade the 
tough cuts for several days in claret, and during the 
process impart any desired flavor to the meat. Cali- 
fornia claret made from the Zinfandel grape — a Hun- 
garian fruit — is about like good vi)i ordinaire, and 
not exj^ensive; it is retailed in ISTew York for about 
one dollar a gallon. When only part of a bottle of 
claret has been used at table, the residue serves well 
for marinade; there are other uses for it, which Avill 
be indicated. Vinegar and water equally mixed take 
the place of claret, and sour cider makes an excellent 
pickle for the same purpose. The fact that any liquid 
applied to the cut surface of meat tends to withdraw 
its juices must be remembered, and for this reason the 



'74 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

rnarinade or pickle must be used for tlie sauce, any 
surplus being strained and kept cold for use within 
ten days. A cut from the leg, such as is sold for 
soup, where the bone is round and full of marrow, will 
afford a fair test of this method. The meat is tough 
and interspersed with cartilage or gristle, but its flavor 
is good, and gentle simmering will complete the action 
of the acid in the wine or vinegar. The meat should 
be laid in a deep earthen dish or jar about an inch 
larger in every direction than the meat, and covered 
with vinegar and water equally mixed, or with claret, 
or sour cider. iVb salt should ever he used: This is 
most important, because salt draws out the blood and 
juice of the meat comj^letely, but pepper or whole 
spice of any kind may be added, as also may bay 
leaves, sweet herbs, parsley, onions, carrots, turnips, 
or any vegetable the flavor of which is desired. About 
a tablespoonful each of any of the vegetables except 
the onion (a smaller quantity of this will suflice), and 
of the herbs, and a dozen each of the whole spice, will 
flavor six or eight pounds of meat. When there is no 
fat upon the piece, a small quantity should be added 
to it to use in cooking. The fat is needed for brown- 
ing the meat, to flavor it, and also to establish its nu- 
tritive value. It is an error to suppose that fat has 
no food value. Apart from the necessary heat it im- 
parts to the system, its presence makes the complete 
assimilation possible of the other nutritious elements 
of meat. The meat may remain in the pickle from 
two to ten days, at the convenience of the housekeeper. 
It should be turned over every day, and kept in a cool 
place, protected from dust and flies, care being taken 
that it does not taint in close, muggy weather. The 
fibre will become soft in about two d.ays, and the meat 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OP BEEF. ^5 

may be cooked after that time, preferably by stewing, 
because that permits the slow simmering which yields 
a tender, juicy dish. Take the meat out of the pickle, 
wipe it with a soft, dry cloth, brown it quickly in 
enough hot fat to prevent burning; then dredge it 
thoroughly with flour, and move the meat about in the 
saucepan until the flour is brown; after that cover it 
with the pickle, adding water if the quantity of pickle 
is deficient, and a palatable seasoning of salt, and cook 
the meat with a gentle heat for about three hours. If 
a thin sauce or gravy is preferred, omit the flour and 
strain out the vegetables; if a thick sauce is liked, rub 
the vegetables through a sieve with a potato-masher 
after they are soft and the meat is ready to serve, and 
mix them through the gravy. 

This method of cooking may be applied to any cut 
of meat. When tough meat is being boiled, put a 
cupful of vinegar into the water if there is a gallon 
of it. When a stew is being made of tough meat, add 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to each quart. If a 
steak is tough, pour three tablespoonfuls of vinegar 
and one of good salad oil upon a platter, and lay the 
steak on it; if the steak is to be used for breakfast, lay 
it in the vinegar early in the evening; turn it over at 
bedtime, adding more oil and vinegar if the first has 
been absorbed; in the morning cook it without Aviping 
it, and season it w^ith salt, pepper, and butter after it 
is brown. If the steak is to be used for dinner, turn 
it over in the oil and vine2:ar everv hour for three or 
four hours before it is time to cook it. The taste of 
the oil and vinegar will hardly be perceptible after the 
steak is cooked, especially if lemon juice is used in 
seasoning it, or lemon served Avith it as a garnish. 
After this process has been followed, the superexcel- 



tjQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

lence of the beefsteaks of such clubs and hotels as em- 
ploy French chefs Avill no longer be the mystery so 
carefully guarded by those culinary masters of the 
arts. This is one of the tricks of trade, like the use 
of milk in breading smelts; the use of the oil is to 
keep the fibres of the meat soft after the vinegar af- 
fects them; melted butter does not answer the pur- 
pose so Avell, although its use has been reported by 
some of my far-away followers unaccustomed to the 
use of salad-oil. 

As a matter of fact, there is no more wholesome 
and nutritious fat than olive-oil; its vegetable origin 
insures its freedom from the possible contaminations 
of animal fats. If it is shielded from light, especially 
from sunlight, it will keep good for a long time; chill- 
ing or freezing does not injure it, nor does intense 
heat. 

In addition to the leg cuts, those from the neck can 
be made tender by the use of the pickle or of the vin- 
egar and oil. An excellent dish from the neck of beef, 
with red cabbage, may be made by first letting the 
beef remain for two or three days in the j)ickle, and 
then gently stewing it until it is tender in the brown 
gravy. Meantime prepare the cabbage, and allow 
about two hours to cook it; if it is tender sooner, keep 
it warm until the meat is ready. Trim off the outer 
withered leaves of a firm head of red cabbage, wash it 
in plenty of cold salted water, and cut it in slices or 
shreds ; in the bottom of a saucepan put half a cupful 
of vinegar or a cupful of claret, a teaspoonful each 
of salt, whole cloves, peppercorns, and allspice, a bay 
leaf broken, a tablespoonful each of sugar and of drip- 
pings from the meat or of good butter; lay the cab- 
bage on these ingredients, cover the saucepan, place it 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. ^J^J 

where its contents will heat slowly, and then where 
they will cook gently until the cabbage is tender at 
the stalks ; if the cabbage is done before the meat is 
ready, check the cooking, but keep it hot. The meat is 
to be laid on a deep platter, with the cabbage around 
it, and a little of the gravy over it. 

If cabbage is not liked, boiled beets may be used in 
its place. The beets are to be carefully washed in 
plenty of cold water, without breaking their skins, 
and then boiled until tender in enouoh boilins^ water 
to cover them. To test them, lift one from the water 
with a skimmer, press it with the fingers, protected by 
a dry towel; it will yield slightly to pressure when it 
is done. Then take the beets from the hot water; 
with a wet towel rub off the skins, and slice them. 
Just before the meat is done, heat the beets with the 
seasonings specified for the cabbage, or with salt, pep- 
per, butter, and a little vinegar, and then serve them 
around the nieat. In serving the beets or cabbage the 
whole spices may be removed if they seem objection- 
able. 

When a large quantity of meat is on hand, some of 
it may be dried. An old Knickerbocker method for 
drying beef was to first trim the superfluous fat from 
pieces of meat containing no bone; the meat was thor- 
oughly rubbed with salt and saltpetre, and then covered 
with brine and kept under it for ten days. The brine 
for ten or twelve pounds of meat can be made by 
boiling together half a gallon of beer or water, a 
pound of salt, quarter of a pound of brown sugar or 
molasses, an ounce each of saltpetre, junijDer berries, 
peppercorns, and coriander seed, a small shallot or a 
clove of garlic, and two bay leaves, and removing the 
scum until no more rises; the brine is then cooled and 



<7g FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

poured over the meat, wliich must be kept under it by 
a heavy stone for about ten days. After that time it 
is ready to smoke. The best smoke is from sawdust 
with juniper berries mingled with it, according to the 
old Dutch method. Ten or twelve days' smoking is 
sufficient. Or the beef, after being salted, can be dried 
in a clear strong air or by dry heat. 

Later directions will be given for smoking meat at 
home. An easy method of drying meat is to trim off 
all fat and bone, cut the meat in strips about an inch 
thick, lay it in pans, and dry it out in a cool oven with 
the door open, or in the air, protected from flies, until 
it can be powdered. 

This drying of meat in the open air and sun is the 
most primitive of all methods of curing it. Among the 
Indians of North America it is both dried in strips and 
powdered to use for pemican. The charqui of the 
great South American plains, the jerked beef of the 
Indies, and the biltong of Africa are cured almost 
identically; the smoking and salting of meat is an ad- 
vance in civilization. 

When it is intended to dry meat in the air or the 
sun, it is best to dip the strips into salted water, and 
pepper them well to keep off the flies. The dried meat 
can be packed in tin boxes in the strips, and kept in a 
cool, dry place; when it is wanted for the table it can 
be soaked in cold water until the fibre softens, and 
then used for soups or stews, together with the water 
used in softening it. Or after it is dried it can be 
ground or pounded to a powder, mixed with half its 
weight of melted suet, and packed tight in tin cans; 
the cans are to be soldered up, a small hole made to 
admit enough more melted suet to entirely fill them, 
and this hole soldered, so as to make them perfectly 



HOW TO USE QUANTITIES OF BEEF. (79 

air-tiglit. In this condition the meat will keej) in- 
definitely; it is, in fact, pemican. The pemican pre- 
pared by the Hudson Bay Company contains, in ad- 
dition to the suet, sometimes dried currants or raisins, 
and sometimes sugar. The plain pemican makes ex- 
cellent soups and stews, in combination with vege- 
tables. This is a good way to preserve the trimmings 
of beef when a quarter is being put by for family use. 
The pemican with fruit would do w^ell as a basis for 
mince-pies. 

If any of our readers should not find the methods 
given suflicient to dispose of a quarter of beef, they 
can write to the author. But under ordinary circum- 
stances they wdll be able to utilize the entire quarter 
as indicated. The points to remember are, to freeze 
the joints intended for roasting and broiling; to put 
down, after the old Dutch method, the joints which 
cannot be frozen; to pickle or cure those intended for 
salting or smoking before they have any chance to 
taint; to try out all the drippings and use all the bones 
within a day or two after the meat is bought; and, 
above all, not to allow a single pound to be w^asted. 
If a joint is given away because there is so much, the 
object of buying the quarter w'ill be defeated; the 
economy of such a proceeding would be nil. 



80 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 



CHAPTER VIII. 

LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND POEK. 

The general remarks concerning the treatment of 
quantities of beef will apply to the meats named above. 
Of these pork is best for winter use; mutton is always 
in season; and lamb and veal are in their best condition 
in early summer. The special May delicacies among 
meats are spring lamb and milk veal; at this season 
spring lamb weighs from twenty-five pounds upward, 
and by its gradual increase in weight equalizes its 
price, which generally maintains its average by the 
quarter from early March until July. The quarter 
Avhich in March weighs five pounds, and costs about 
fifty cents a pound, in late July will have increased to 
twenty, and the price will be about one third the first 
cost per pound. The fore-quarter roasted affords the 
most delicate portions; and the carving is facilitated 
by having the shoulder blade removed and the ribs 
cracked apart before the meat is cooked. In buying 
spring lamb see that the outer la3X'r of tlihi fat which 
is skewered over the hind-quarter is the same color of 
the kidne}^ fat, as this indicates that it is the caul fat 
of the same animal, and not an addition for the pur- 
pose of " dressing it up " to improve its looks. The 
fat of different animals has different flavors. See also 
that the kidney fat is abundant, semi-transparent, and 
clean, and that there is no indication of softening or 
discoloration, because that shows that the meat is on 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND TOEK. gj 

tlie verge of spoiling. The kidney of the hind-quarter 
and the neck of the fore-quarter are the parts which 
taint first. Bear in mind the fact that refrigerated 
meat spoils very quickly when exposed to a summer 
temperature, especially if the day is rainy or muggy. 
It should be transported from the ice-box at the mar- 
ket to the coldest place in the house as rapidly as pos- 
sible, never being exposed to the rays of the sun. Be- 
fore cooking it should not be alloAved to remain in the 
kitchen; and it should be cooked at a very hot fire; 
both lamb and veal are subject to these conditions. 
The heat of the fire is important; a joint of meat put 
into a slow oven or before a poor fire will sometimes 
spoil during the process of cooking; the low degree of 
heat, combined with the steam generated in the meat, 
will present a condition most favorable to the taint 
caused by heat and moisture. 

The veal in market in the early spring is called 
"milk veal," because the calf is fed solely by the cow; 
at the age of a month or six weeks the flesh is white, 
tender, and delicate; at a less age it is soft, watery, 
and semi-gelatinous, not easily digested, and lacking 
in nutriment. After six weeks the cow cannot supply 
food enough, and other milk is used, or the transition 
in food is made with meal and hay to fresh grass. 
When the food is wholly of grass the meat is less deli- 
cate, firmer in substance, and darker in color. When 
large veal is very white, the suspicion arises that it has 
been bled before killing, to "blanch" it; the meat of 
such veal will probably prove dry and tasteless. As 
with lamb, the kidney-fat and neck of veal show the 
first indication of spoiling. In city markets the sweet- 
breads are held at a high price, but places do exist 
where butchers have not yet discovered how much 
6 



82 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

epicures will pay for such tidbits, and they are sold 
low enough to come within our limit. 

In poultry the summer dainties are spring chickens, 
spring ducks and geese, squabs, and capons; but all 
these are generally beyond our limit of cost. 

Although fresh pork is not the best of summer 
meats, it is in marketable condition, and as the most 
economical of all meats it calls for consideration. 

Harj^er's readers are legion, and so many of them 
are resident upon farms and in country towns, where 
the supply of fresh meat is uncertain, that the care of 
large quantities in reference to its most economical 
use is a question of importance. Already some sug- 
gestions have been made concerning beef, which may 
well be supplemented here by others about mutton 
and fresh pork. Not a few prosperous farmers' fam- 
ilies largely depend on the annual killing of stock in 
the fall for most of their fresh meat, and they will 
welcome a revival of the fireside lore of the past gen- 
eration concerning the utilization of the entire carcass. 
Even those families whose means are quite limited 
generally fatten one pig for their winter's supply of 
meat, while the curing of pork is a question of con- 
siderable importance in larger establishments. In 
another of the author's books a diagram is given for 
the cutting up of a pig; the following list from this 
work, "Practical American Cookery," shows the cuts 
or portions into which the carcass is divided; a few 
words added to the list will make it fairly intelligible 
for present purposes. There are two cuts of each kind 
from the two sides of the carcass, except the feet, of 
which there are four, of course. The feet extend from 
the hoof to what is proj^erly the knee-joint; after be- 
ing scalded and scraped perfectly clean, they are used 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL. AND PORK. 33 

for souse or jelly, or boiled until tender, and then fried 
or broiled. 

The hock extends from the knee-joint to the begin- 
ning of the shoulder; hocks are salted, pickled, or 
smoked, and used for boiling with vegetables. The 
shoulder runs from the hock upward to the body on 
the fore-leg; it is used for fresh roasts, for corned pork, 
and ham. 

The leg is the entire hind-leg from the foot upward 
to near the backbone, and is roasted while fresh, or 
corned, salted, or smoked for ham. The tail-piece in- 
cludes the tail and about eight inches of the backbone; 
it is a choice roasting-piece while fresh. 

The cheek is the lower jaw and under portion of the 
head, reaching from the mouth to the neck; it is used 
for pickling, salting, and smoking; in the South it is 
called jowl, and is a favorite portion for boiling with 
cabbage and turnips. The head, or top of head, is the 
upper-jaw and forehead, reaching from the nose to 
back of the ears, including the latter; it is salted or 
pickled. The neck, which lies back of the head, be- 
hind the ears, is generally used fresh for roasting, or 
in the form of cutlets. 

The ribs are usually roasted, stewed, broiled, or 
fried. Spareribs are the ribs from which nearly all 
the meat has been cut for curing; they are savory and 
sweet, and make good stews with vegetables; a favor- 
ite Southern dish is spareribs boiled with green jDcase; or 
they may be broiled, baked, or boiled, fresh or corned. 

The loin, which lies between the ribs and the hind- 
leg, or ham, is used chiefly for roasts, baked dishes, and 
chops for frying and broiling. When the back fat of 
pork is very thick, it is sometimes partly removed be- 
fore roasting or being divided into chops. When the 



g4 FAl^lILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

skin is left on the loin it is scored in half-inch squares, 
and basted during cooking like the crackling on suck- 
ing pigs. The fillets, or tenderloins, which lie inside 
the bones of the loins, are loose of fibre and very soft, 
because the muscles winch form them are not exer- 
cised; they are used fresh for roasting, frying, and 
broiling. 

The flank and brisket include the entire under por- 
tion of the carcass, from the hams to the shoulders, 
taking in the thin ends of the ribs; these portions are 
pickled, salted, and smoked. Bacon is first thorough- 
ly salted, and then smoked. The flitch of bacon is the 
whole side between the shoulder and leg; brawn is 
the entire side, boned and cured, and then rolled and 
boiled. 

While many persons, from religious or scientific con- 
viction, or from ^physiological idiosyncrasies, do not 
favor the use of pork in any form, the fact still remains 
that it is a popular food — indeed, it has always been 
the food of the masses, except among the Israelites — 
and it is the most abundant meat of this entire country; 
therefore, without entering upon any discussion con- 
cerning its use, w^e will serve many of our readers by 
giving good methods for preparing it for food. 

The most usual American method for curing pork is 
by salting or pickling; for this process a w^ater-tight 
l^ickling tub or bin and a salting trough or board are 
required, the latter being set at an angle to permit 
the brine formed in the preliminary salting to drain 
away. For smoking hams, bacon, and tongues a smok- 
ing-closet or small outhouse can be built for extensive 
work, or the closet and furnace used which are de- 
scribed in another of the author's books. ^Yhere an 
old-fashioned open fireplace is available, the smoking 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND PORK. 35 

can be done in the chimney. Any ordinary family's 
smoking can be done by suspending the meat upon 
bars resting on the top of a large barrel open at both 
ends and set over a smouldering fire partly smothered 
with hard- wood sawdust; a bar of red-hot iron can 
be buried in sawdust, or live coals of hard-wood or 
charcoal covered with damp sawdust; dried corn-cobs 
make a good smoke, or green hickory or maple; pine- 
wood should not be used, on account of its odor; sweet 
herbs and spices, bay leaves and juniper berries, 
burned with the fuel used for smoking, give the meat a 
slightly aromatic flavor. An old New-England way of 
smoking meats was to build a smothered fire of corn- 
cobs on the bottom of a brick oven, and lay the joints 
of meat on racks above the smoke; the ovens still re- 
maining: in old houses are so constructed that the 
smoke draws forward towards the door, and under the 
projecting rafter or cap of the fireplace, and thence up 
the capacious chimney. In some houses the fireplaces 
are still open, a cooking-stove being set under the man- 
tel, with a pipe running up the chimney; the brick 
oven is heated once a week to cook the brown bread 
and baked beans. 

To put up pork after the old N'ew-England way, 
remove the bristles by scalding and scraping, and then 
cut up the carcass. The loins, tenderloins, ribs, spare- 
ribs, neck, and tail-piece are used while fresh, the cold 
weather permitting them to be kept free from taint; 
the fresh trimmings are made into sausages, head- 
cheese, and scrapple ; the blood into black puddings; 
the edible entrails are cooked fresh; and the leaf or 
intestinal fat tried out as lard. The thick outer fat of 
the sides is salted, the feet and part of the head made 
into jelly or souse, and the flank and brisket are salted 



gg FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

or pickled in brine; the shoulders are usually pickled 
or corned for about a week, and then either boiled 
or baked; the hams are first salted and then smoked. 
To pickle the fat pork, cut it in proper pieces for 
packing; see that it is clean, rub it thoroughly with 
salt, pack it in kegs or barrels with layers of salt, al- 
lowing a bushel of salt to a barrel, and pour in enough 
cold water to fill the barrel; lay a heavy stone on the 
pork to keep it under the brine, and keep the barrel 
covered; if all the salt is dissolved in two or three 
days, more is to be added, until all is taken up that 
the water will receive, and a little remains undissolved. 
The pork can be used in about six weeks after it is 
salted. Legs of pork which are to be salted for hams 
are cured both by dry-salting and in brine. The joints 
are to be properly trimmed, laid skin down in the salt- 
ing-trough or on an inclined board, so that the brine 
can drain away, and thoroughly rubbed with the fol- 
lowing salting mixture, the several ingredients being 
pounded to a powder: for eighteen pounds of meat 
allow two pounds of salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and 
four ounces of brown sugar. Every day for four days 
rub the meat with this mixture; then every day for 
twelve days rub the meat with salt, keeping over the 
meat a board with a heavy weight upon it; be sure 
that the brine and blood drain perfectly from the meat. 
Small joints will be ready to smoke in a week; large 
ones in from ten to fourteen days. Hams should be 
smoked for about three weeks, then dusted with pep- 
per, wrapped in brown paper, and sewed up in a thick 
cloth; the hams thus treated can be hung in a cool, 
dry closet, or packed in barrels in layers of dry salt, 
powdered charcoal, slaked lime, burned bran, or clean 
wood-ashes. 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND PORK. g*; 

A brine for salting hams may be made by boiling 
together and skimming clear three gallons of water, 
four and a half pounds of salt, one pound and a half 
of brown sugar, one ounce and a half of saltpetre, half 
an ounce of saleratus, and two quarts of molasses,' cool 
it before putting the meat into it, and keep the meat 
immersed by weighting it with a heavy stone. Hams 
should remain in the brine for five weeks, the top ones 
being put at the bottom once a week; they will then 
be ready to smoke. 

To dry-salt bacon, trim the sides, rub them thor- 
oughly with salt, and let them lie on an inclined board 
for twenty-four hours. For each side allows the follow- 
ing ingredients, powdered and mixed: half a pound 
each of salt and brown sugar and an ounce of salt- 
petre. Rub the mixture well into the pork, and turn 
it, every day for two weeks; it will then be ready to 
smoke for ten days, and put up like hams by protect- 
ing it from the atmosphere and insects. 

One of the most important operations connected 
with the fall curing of pork is the " trying out " of 
lard. The white leaf fat of ncAvly-killed pork is to be 
freed from membranes, kernels, and flesh, and cut in 
pieces about an inch square; put the fat into a thick 
saucepan or iron pot over a steady, gentle fire with a 
pint of cold water, and gradually heat and steadily 
boil it until the water has evaporated and the fat be- 
gins to brown and cake together in the form of 
" scraps"; the fat must be stirred occasionally to keep 
the " scraps " from sticking. The boiling may occupy 
about three hours; as it progresses the fat will lose 
its cloudy look and become clear. When the lard is 
clear, and the " scraps " light brown, set the pot off 
the fire and let the lard cool a little ; then lay a clean 



88 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



cloth over an earthen jar or tight wooden tub, and 
strain the lard through it; the bottom of the lard, con- 
taining the " scraps," should be strained without 
pressing, and put into a separate vessel, to be used 
first. When cold, the lard should be covered with 
waxed paper, and closed from the air. The " scraps " 
are salted a little, and eaten with baked potatoes; in 
the South they are mixed with the Indian meal from 
which crackling pone is made. 

When lamb or mutton is killed in the fall, a portion 
is generally frozen to be used later. Some parts may 
be roasted or baked, and potted according to the di- 
rections given for potting beef in the old Pennsylvania 
Dutch style. The ribs or spareribs can be corned in 
salt for two or three days, and then boiled with vege- 
tables, and the hams and shoulders corned or smoked: 
corned mutton is excellent among salted meats. To 
corn mutton for boiling or smoking, trim it, and let it 
hang in a cool place for two days; then powder the 
following ingredients, warm them in a thick sauce- 
pan, and thoroughly rub them into the mutton: half a 
l^ound each of rock and table salt and brown sugar, 
and two ounces of saltpetre. Let the mutton stand 
for four days in a wooden vessel, turning it every day. 
The mutton will then be ready to use at once for boil- 
ing, to dry and use like frizzled or dried beef, or to 
smoke like ham for a week, and then preserve from 
the air and insects. As the trimmings of both fresh 
pork and mutton can be made into sausages, scrapple, 
head-cheese, and souse, recipes follow for the prepa- 
ration of these dishes. 

In the preceding paragraph mutton is designated as 
a substitute for fresh pork for corning and smoking. 
It may be well to assure our readers that not only 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND PORK. 39 

mutton, but veal and beef, make excellent sausage, to 
say nothing of the flesh of donkeys, which are bred 
in Italy as the crude material of the famous salami. 
The so-called German sausages, Gotha and Brunswick 
cervelat, which find so large a sale among certain 
classes in the cities of the Continent and England, are 
unquestionably made from horse-flesh. While we are 
not disposed to contest the fact with scientists that 
prime horse-flesh closely resembles rather poor beef, 
we cannot hesitate to afiirm that its use would be 
preferable to that of some of the ingredients of which 
butchers' sausages are composed. And we do assert 
that vfhen sausages are a favorite dish at table, unless 
one has every confidence in the dealer, the home-made 
article is infinitely preferable. 

These savory provocatives to appetite need by no 
means stand as a synonym of pork — that meat so 
questionable in many instances; nor need the domes- 
tic maker take the trouble to stuff the forcemeat into 
skins. Made into little balls or pats, and rolled in 
flour before frying, it will not necessarily break apart; 
certainly it will hold its form if a raw egg is mixed 
with it just before frying. If frying seems an objec- 
tionable method of cooking, press the force-meat 
tightly into a pan or mould and bake it, or enclose 
small portions in little turnovers or rolls of good pas- 
try, and bake them thoroughly; so cooked, the meat 
will keep well in cold weather, and prove an excellent 
resource for luncheon or hasty impromptu repasts. A 
delicious pastry for any of these little meat-pies is the 
Parisian pate hrisee, which is made of flour dried be- 
fore the fire, about one fourth its weight of good but- 
ter well rubbed through the flour, a little salt, and one 
or two eggs to a pound; cold water is used to mix it 



90 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

rather stiff, and it is rolled as many times as is possi- 
ble without melting the butter; a liberal sprinkling of 
cayenne for pungency and the juice of a lemon is the 
author's addition to increase the tenderness of the pas- 
try. Enshrined in such a domicile, the hungry man 
would welcome without question even " those obscure 
corners of the pig of which the animal, when living, 
had the least reason to be vain." Both sausages and 
sausage meat may be broiled without smoking, and 
gain in flavor if served with a garnish of fried apple 
or red-cabbage pickle. 

Pork sausages are made from the lean trimmings of 
fresh pork and from one half to one fourth of their 
weight in clear, firm fat cut from the back or from 
some part of the carcass near the skin (the soft intes- 
tinal fat is suitable only for making lard) : to twelve 
pounds of lean pork add three of clear fat (chopping 
both fat and lean quite fine, removing all tough por- 
tions), one cupful each of salt and powdered sweet 
herbs (chiefly sage), six dried red peppers chopped 
very fine, or two even teaspoonfuls of cayenne and 
four of black pepper. After the sausage meat is thor- 
oughly mixed it should be tested to make sure that 
the flavor is savory, the best test being to fry a small 
portion. Some persons add ground allspice and cloves 
to sausage meat, and a powdered bay leaf, or dried 
parsley or celery leaves. 

The sausage meat, w^hen prepared, is either put up 
in jars with an inch layer of melted fat on the top, or 
in small muslin bags or dressed sausage skins; if the 
bags are dipped in lard just melted after they are 
filled, the slight coating of fat thus gained will ex- 
clude the air and retard the injury its action entails 
on all fresh meat. Sausage meat in bags can be salt- 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND PORK. gj 

ed and smoked like ham, and so prepared is excellent 
boiled with any fresh vegetable. Although in many- 
places sausage skins can be bought dressed, they may 
be unavailable in the country. The suitable intes- 
tines are prepared by reversing and thoroughly wash- 
ing them; then they are soaked in salted water or 
Aveak lime-water for three days, and subsequently 
scraped with the back of a knife, and washed several 
times; after they are quite clean they are laid in salted 
water for ten or twelve days, the water being changed 
when it gives out any unpleasant odor. The opera- 
tion is one of the few disagreeable ones which should 
be understood by housekeepers, especially by farmers' 
wives. 

The intestinal tubes of beef, veal, and mutton are 
similarly dressed, and used for other sausages. Bo- 
logna sausage, for instance, is stuffed into beef cas- 
ings; the meat is chopped like other sausage, either 
by hand or in a machine; the meat is usually a mixt- 
ure of fresh pork and veal or beef, but beef may be 
used alone in quantity equal to all the lean meat called 
for in this recipe; the salt pork or fat bacon is indis- 
pensable, and is to be cut in quarter-inch strips and 
laid lengthwise of the casings in stuffing them, or 
chopped fine with the lean meat; three pounds of 
fresh pork, three of veal or tender beef, and one of 
beef suet, all chopped very fine or ground in a sau- 
sage-machine; thoroughly mix with the meat one on- 
ion and two cloves of garlic peeled and grated, one 
nutmeg grated, one even teaspoonful each of ground 
cloves, powdered marjoram, thyme, and savory, one 
of cayenne, two of black pepper, and six of powdered 
sage; blend all these ingredients by repeated mixing, 
and salt the force-meat freely; stuff it into prepared 



92 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



beef casings, and either smoke the sausage and dry it 
for three months, or prick the skin many times with a 
fine trussing needle, boil the sausages for an hour, and 
then dry them in the sun, rubbing them with a lit- 
tle butter melted if the casings seem dry enough to 
split. Keep the sausage hung up in a cool, dry place. 
To use them either broil, fry, or boil them ; sour- 
crout or cabbage boiled with them makes a good heavy 
dish. 

Veal sausage is made from equal quantities of lean 
veal and fat bacon or beef suet. To each pound of 
the sausage meat add an even teaspoonful each of 
ground cloves, allspice, black pepper, salt, and pow- 
dered sage; either stuff the meat into small casings or 
put it up in jars, covering it with melted suet or but- 
ter; cook it like ordinary sausage. Mutton sausage 
is made from lean mutton and the suet of veal or beef, 
with a high seasoning of salt, pepper, and powdered 
sweet herbs; mutton sausage may be corned and 
smoked like the mutton hams already described. 

Scrapple may be made from either of these meats, 
although fresh pork is generally preferred for it. The 
famous Philadelphia scrapple is made by carefully 
cleaning a fresh pig's head, or using an equal quantity 
of the trimmings of fresh pork. After washing the 
meat, put it over the fire in a gallon of water palatably 
salted, and boil it gently until the bones drop from 
the flesh; then the broth is to be strained and returned 
to the tire; the meat, entirely free from bone, is to be 
chopped fine and put with the broth; as soon as it be- 
gins to boil, yellow Indian meal is scattered in with 
the left hand^ the right being used for stirring with a 
wooden spoon or spatula. "When the scrapple is as 
thick as hasty-pudding — that is, when the spoon will 



LAMB, MUTTON, VEAL, AND PORK. 93 

stand upright in it for an instant — it is to be very 
highly seasoned with salt, pepper, cayenne, sage, 
thyme, and marjoram, the herbs reduced to a fine 
powder; the scrapple is then allowed to boil slowly 
for an hour, with occasional stirring to prevent burn- 
ing; when done it is poured into a square tin pan wet 
with cold water, and set away to cool. The scrapple 
is sliced and browned in lard or hot drippings for 
breakfast or supper, being seasoned with salt and pep- 
per while browning. 

Head -cheese is made from the head and tongue, 
boiled tender in enough salted water to cover it; the 
tongue is cut in strijDS, and the flesh and skin of the 
head either chopped very fine or ground in a sausage- 
machine. With the meat mix a half-pint of vinegar, 
and season it highly with salt, pepper, ground cloves, 
and powdered sweet herbs, especially sage; pack the 
head-cheese while hot in jars or earthen dishes, press- 
ing it down forcibly and leaving a weight above it 
set on a plate, until it is cold and firm. The pot liquor 
from the head may be boiled until it will jelly, and 
then clarified like clear soup, and highly spiced and 
flavored with lemon and wine; it makes a very nutri- 
tious jelly. A savory jelly can be made from the 
skin of fresh pork, at the annual killing, by boiling it 
v.'ith three pints of water to each pound, until it can 
be broken by pressure between the fingers; the jelly 
is to be clarified like soup, and spiced, sweetened, and 
flavored like wine jelly. A good jelly can be made 
from fresh pigs' feet, just like calf's-foot jelly. 

Souse is made from pigs' feet scalded and scraped 
until the skin is free from hairs and white; then boil 
them, until the bones fall out, in enough salted water 
to cover them; split the feet, take out all the bones, and 



94 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

pack the feet in glass or earthen jars, putting whole 
cloves, mace, and pej^percorns throughout; mix vine- 
gar equally with the pot liquor, scald it, and pour it 
over the feet, and let them stand for twelve hours or 
longer. Souse is used cold, or sliced and fried. All 
pigs' feet should be carefully cleaned, and boiled until 
the bones drop out, and the largest bones should be re- 
moved always. Fried pigs' feet are sometimes bread- 
ed, or they are rolled in flour seasoned with salt and 
pepper; in New^ England salt pork is fried with them, 
and in the South bacon. Calves' and lambs' feet can 
be soused. 

Another favorite Southern dish of pork is jowl. This 
consists of the cheek or side of the head of pork, 
either salted or cured like bacon; it is boiled with 
greens or cabbage. Cold boiled jowl makes a good 
breakfast dish sliced and fried or quickly broiled. 

Crackling pone is always made in Southern country- 
houses when the bacon pig is cured. For a small pone 
a quart of Indian meal is scalded with as much boiling 
water as it will absorb, and allowed to cool until the 
hand can be used to mix into it a cupful of well-salted 
'* cracklings," or the scraps produced in trying out 
lard; the hands are then wet in cold water, and the 
pone patted about an inch thick on a pan, to be baked 
in the oven, or on the pone-board, wet with cold water, 
to be baked before the fire. The old mammies main- 
tain that no pone is so good as one baked before the 
fire, or in the ashes, wrapped in a cabbage leaf. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 95 



CHAPTER IX. 

SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 

Many practical housekeepers who are interested in 
economical experiments in a general way do not al- 
ways believe that they can be successfully undertaken 
in their own households. They may be sufficiently 
liberal-minded to conceive the possibility of success 
under conditions more favorable than they can com- 
mand; but they are inclined to doubt the feasibility 
of applying such eiforts to ordinary housekeeping, 
the chief objection being the time required, which 
they may not be disposed to devote to mere experi- 
ment. It may be true that many of our readers who 
live the abnormally full life of popular city people 
will defer testing some of our proposed methods until 
the ideal suitable hour arrives which never does come. 
On the other hand, we have the satisfaction of know- 
ing that numbers do endeavor to carry out the entire 
scheme here outlined. For just this reason consider- 
able space has been given to some operations which 
are far from inviting to any housewife less than en- 
thusiastic and thorough. Were these most admirable 
of their kind numbered only by the tens, it would 
still be worth our best efforts to clearly show them 
the way to every successful issue of the economic 
problem. 

As we tried to prove in previous pages, the proper 
use of such usually disdained portions of food as fat 



9(5 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

and bone assume importance in this connection. The 
experiments of Dr. Edward Smith with bones were 
cited to instance their possible food value; these ex- 
periments were undertaken at the command of the 
English government, and were exhaustive enough to 
prove that three and a half pounds of mixed bones 
contain as much heat food as one pound of meat, and 
six pounds of bones as much flesh food as a pound of 
meat. As none of the substance of the bones can be 
eaten except the small quantity of marrow they yield 
during cooking, two things are needed in treating 
them, i. e., a vehicle for the extraction of their nutri- 
ment, the simplest being water, and the addition of 
such food elements as will afford the substantial bulk 
needed to meet the requirements of nutrition; these 
may be chosen from the great variety of vegetables or 
from the numerous cereals. In order to fully extract 
all the nutritious substance from bones they must be 
broken small, and boiled steadily in water for at least 
nine hours; the result will be a gelatinous broth, the 
flavor of which depends upon its seasoning, and its 
capacity for satisfying hunger upon the solid vege- 
tables or cereals added to it; the broth alone, sea- 
soned and drank, w^ould nourish a man relatively as 
beef broth does, according to the quantity of bones 
from which it is made; but bulk as well as nutriment 
is required to satisfy the sense of hunger entirely. 

There should always be water enough to cover the 
bones, a quart to a pound being the maximum quantit}^; 
and at the finish the broth should be boiled down to 
one sixth the first quantity of water; if a quart has been 
allowed for each pound, the proportion of solid food 
added being the same required for ordinary broth 
equal in quantity to this sixth of the first amount. 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 97 

The round bones of the legs, which contain marrow, 
are much more nutritious than the flat bones of steaks 
and ribs or the bones of the head. The bones of beef 
are relatively larger and more nutritious than those of 
sheep and pigs; the proportion of bone in the entire 
leg of beef is from one third to one half, the best-fed 
beef having relatively more flesh; the head shows 
about one half its weight in bones; the neck, shoulder, 
and thin end of ribs about one tenth, and the choice 
cuts from one sixth to one tenth; the average weight 
of bone in the ordinary best cuts of all kinds of meat 
is about one tenth the whole. 

The proportion of fat depends upon the condition 
of the meat, the greatest amount being present in the 
primest cuts. Suggestions have already been made 
concerning the use of much of the best fat in the form 
of drippings, and for the purpose of potting and mak- 
ing gravies. A more homely use remains for such 
as ordinarily is condemned to the fire or the cook's 
grease-tub. Let economical housewives who do not 
blush for their economies remember that of old their 
most famous prototypes took pride in making their 
own candles and soap. 

So far as candles are concerned, the economy would 
be doubtful in towns, or where oil is cheap and good, 
because an ill-smelling candle is the acme of malodorous 
torments. Only perfectly good fat should be used 
for making candles, such as would be fit to cook with; 
so that only uj^dn large farms where there is an excess 
of fat — more than can be otherwise utilized — could 
candles be profitably made. However, for these few 
requirements we may give brief space to the subject. 
Moulded candles are cast in metal moulds so construct- 
ed that the wicks are held in place at the bottom with 
7 



98 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. • 

the pegs which close the apertures in the mould, and 
at the top by the wire or rod over which they are 
doubled, or by some patent device; at the top of the 
mould there is a groove, into which the melted fat 
is poured, and which distributes it to individual cir- 
cular tubes; when the candles are hard, the mould is 
opened by hinges, and the wicks and tops of the can- 
dles trimmed. 

The more primitive dipping of candles is accom- 
plished by doubling the wicks over a number of short 
rods, and stiffening them by several slight applications 
of tallow, the first being hot enough to saturate the 
wricks, and those succeeding just liquid enough to ad- 
here to the wicks; make the stiffened wicks perfectly 
straight and smooth. For the regular dipping of the 
candles the tallow must be only warm enough to ad- 
here; if it w^ere too warm, it w^ould melt off the tallow 
already hardened upon the wicks. Tlie melted tallow 
is sometimes in a pail, into w^hich the candles are low- 
ered straight for an instant, and sometimes in flat pans, 
wdiere the rod of candles is laid; the candles after their 
momentary immersion are hung by the rods or hoops 
to which they are attached until their exterior is firm; 
they are dipped and cooled repeatedly, and when they 
are large enough they are smoothed and trimmed, and 
the tops are pointed ready for lighting. Mutton tal- 
low is better than beef for candles, and both are im- 
proved by melting a little w'hite w^ax with them to 
harden the candles. All tallow must be clarified for 
candle-making as for frying. In towms candles are 
so cheap that their domestic production has become a 
mere tradition. 

Not so the home manufacture of soap. Many mod- 
ern housewives pride themselves upon their kegs of 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 99 

excellent soft soap. This is much easier to make at 
home than hard soap; to make that is desirable only 
in far-away places; however, a formula is given, for 
Harper's books have readers near and far. The old- 
time basis of soap was lye made of wood-ashes ; by 
the simplest method the wood-ashes were boiled with 
w^ater — a pound to a gallon — and strained ; to the 
clear lye thus obtained grease was added — a pound to 
a gallon — and the boiling continued until a soap of the. 
desired consistency was produced, occasional stirring 
being necessary. Unless the grease is rancid, no very 
disagreeable odor accompanies the making of soap. 

Where the accumulation of ashes and grease was 
gradual, this method w^as followed: The ashes were 
put into a barrel with a perforated bottom, or into a 
lye tub shaped like the hopper of a mill, set on posts 
to permit the placing of a tub beneath it ; the bottom 
was perforated, and a layer of stones or crossed sticks 
overlaid with straw furnished drainage ; as soon as a 
bushel of ashes was in the tub, half a peck of lime was 
thrown in, and more ashes placed on the lime ; when 
the tub was nearly full, repeated pailfuls of warm 
water were poured through the ashes ; the drainage 
w^as lye; this was concentrated by boiling — a strong 
lye would float an uncooked egg ; as grease of any 
kind accumulated it w^as put into a barrel and kept 
covered with the lye as it drained from the ashes. 

To make soap a gallon of strong lye was put into a 
kettle w^ith an equal quantity of grease eaten with lye, 
or a pound of solid fat, and boiled for an hour, with 
occasional stirring ; more weak lye was added as it 
was required — enough to neutralize the fat — and the 
boiling continued for several hours, with frequent stir- 
ring, until some of the soap cooled showed the proper 



100 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



consistency of soft soap. To make hard soap, a usual 
proportion was fifteen pounds of clean grease to twen- 
ty gallons of strong lye; these were boiled, with fre- 
quent stirring, until the soap was quite thick or stringy ; 
then half a peck of salt was added, and the boiling con- 
tinued for two hours ; if then the soap did not curdle 
and harden on cooling a little, more salt was added, 
until it curdled ; the thick soap was then ladled into 
a tub and cooled overnight ; the next day the hard 
portion was melted again with a little weak lye, and 
boiled for an hour; then it was ready to cool and cut 
for drying. 

In the absence of ashes, soap is now made with soda 
and potash. Soda soap: To five pounds of grease add 
three pounds of washing soda and four gallons of boil- 
ing water, and stir the mixture daily until the soap 
forms; reduce it to the right consistency of soft soap 
with cold water. 

Potash soap is made by dissolving over the fire three 
pounds of potash with ten gallons of water ; four 
pounds of clean grease are now stirred in, and the 
boiling continued, with occasional stirring, until soap 
of proper consistency is formed, the test being to cool 
a small quantity. Potash soap without boiling is made 
by putting into a barrel ten pounds of potash, twelve 
pounds of clean grease, and cold water to nearly fill 
the barrel; shelter it from the rain, but let the sun 
reach it. Let it stand for three or four weeks, until 
the soap forms, stirring it several times daily. 

The success of all soap-making depends upon using 
enough alkaline matter, in the form of lye, potash, or 
soda, to neutralize the grease; that is, if, after the 
soap is thoroughly boiled, the grease shows on its sur- 
face, more alkali and water are needed. When the 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. jqi 

soap, dropped from the stirring-stick, looks stringy, 
it is ready to cool for soft soap, or to receive the salt 
which separates the portion that will harden upon dry- 
ing. The liquid part which drains from the curdled 
portion of hard soap answers for scrubbing. The sec- 
ond boiling of hard soap clarifies it; a third boiling, 
with enough soft water to dissolve the soap entirely, 
frees it from harsh qualities, and it will harden upon 
the surface of the water when cold. 

The various kinds of manufactured lye, potash, etc., 
are accompanied by their special formulas for making 
soap. The vegetable oils are largely used in the man- 
ufacture of fine toilet soaps. As compensation for 
these very commonplace recipes, we may offer anoth- 
er for an admirable toilet soaj), Avhich any lady can 
make without difficulty, using either common yellow 
household soap, or a good grade of white Castile soap, 
which is preferable, because it contains proportionately 
but little alkaline matter. The soap may be cooled by 
half filling cups with it after boiling it. Melt by gen- 
tle heat one pound of soap cut in thin shavings, stir- 
ring it over the fire in a saucepan set in a pan of boil- 
ing water. When the soap is melted, stir in half a 
pound each of palm oil and honey, and boil the soap 
for eight minutes, stirring it several times. The nat- 
ural perfume of the soap will be a faint odor of vio- 
lets from the palm oil, if it is pure; therefore, if any 
essence is added, it should be that of those blue-eyed 
darlings of the spring. 

Reference has been made to possible variety in the 
rather limited range of farmer's fare as bounded by 
brown bread and soda biscuit, baked beans, dough- 
nuts, salt pork, codfish, boiled dinner, and pumpkin 
pie. The limit is sometimes less marked by paucity 



102 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



of materials than by rigid adherence to a few methods 
of cookery. If poultry extends the list, it is either 
baked, fried, or fricasseed, and eggs are generally fried 
or boiled. The possible extension of this line of sup- 
plies to such a number of dishes as will permit a new 
one every day in the year might seem impossible, and 
yet there are more than a hundred ways of cooking 
eggs alone. It is true that chickens, eggs, and cream 
are not so abundant upon many farms as city dwellers 
sometimes suppose. IJsually the poultry is raised for 
market, and every egg that is not permitted to devel- 
op into a chick is regarded with an eye to all its pos- 
sibilities ; but we will suppose that eggs are cooked 
sometimes, and consider a few methods of serving 
them which are borrowed from the transatlantic rural 
folk. Take fried eggs, for instance; Avhile the yolk 
is still soft, as soon as the white is set, take them up 
carefully with a thin skimmer or pancake turner, to 
avoid breaking them, and lay each one upon a slice of 
delicate toast; if there is more than half a cupful of 
fat in the pan, pour it out; put in a cupful of vinegar 
and a sharp seasoning of pepper, let it boil up, pour 
it over the eggs and toast, and serve the dish at once. 
With coffee and bread and butter this is an excellent 
breakfast dish. 

If a more substantial meal is desired, boil or bake 
some potatoes; then fry the eggs and keep them hot 
on toast; leave not more than two tablespoonfuls of 
fat in the frying-pan; into the hot fat stir a heaping 
tablespoonf ul of dry flour, then gradually stir in a pint 
of boiling Avater, a palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, let the gravy boil, and stir it smooth; serve it in 
a bowl, with the fried eggs and potatoes. If fried 
or scrambled eggs remain unused, mince them, warm 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 103 

them with highly-seasoned gravy, and sei've them on 
toast. If boiled eggs are on hand, put them over the lirQ 
in hot water and boil them for five minutes,to make sure 
that they are hard; when they are cool enough to han- 
dle break off the shells, leaving the eggs entire; either 
dip them in batter or bread them, and then fry them 
like doughnuts, and serve them hot; they combine well 
with fried or broiled ham, bacon, salt pork, or salt fish; 
with a dish of baked, boiled, or stewed potatoes and 
gravy they make a substantial meal. Directions are 
elsewhere given for breading and making batter and 
gravy. 

Among the many omelets the most economical are 
those which gain in bulk from the addition of some 
ingredient cheaper than eggs; for instance, if a cupful 
of cold salt fish is on hand, melt together a tablespoon- 
ful each of butter and flour, gradually stir in a capful 
each of milk and water, or use a pint of water; add the 
cold fish freed from bones, three eggs beaten for a min- 
ute, and a high seasoning of salt and pepper; stir the 
mixture over the fire until the eggs are cooked to the 
desired degree, and serve them on toast. The delicacy 
of this dish may be increased with little trouble: sep- 
arate the eggs, beat the yolks for a moment, and add 
them to the fish; beat the whites to a stiff froth, stir 
them lightly with the fish, and cook and serve it quickly. 
With cold boiled rice a favorite Southern omelet can 
be made: mix a cupful each of rice and milk with the 
yolks of three eggs, an even teaspoonf ul of salt, and a 
saltspoonful of white pepper; beat the whites of three 
eggs to a stiff froth, quickly and lightly mix them 
with the other ingredients, pour the omelet into a hot 
pan containing a tablespoonful of butter, and bake it 
in a hot oven until it is done to the desired degree. 



XQ4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

A good bread omelet can be made by softening a 
cupful of the soft part of bread in boiling water, pour- 
ing off what the bread does not absorb; to the soaked 
bread add a cupful of milk, the yolks of three eggs, 
an ev^en teaspoonf ul of salt, and a saltspoonful of pej)- 
per; put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying-25an over 
the fire; beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, 
lightly stir them with the bread, etc., pour the mixt- 
ure into the hot pan, and cook it over a moderate fire 
until the under surface is brown; then fold it together 
and serve it at once on a hot dish. The drippings 
from fried salt pork may replace butter for frying all 
omelets. 

As salt pork constitutes the j^rincipal meat in the 
farmer's dietary, some novelty in its cookery Avill be 
welcome. Most country housekeepers know about 
soaking it overnight, or scalding it for a few mo- 
ments before frying it, but the hint will be welcome 
to such city folk as esteem the dish a relish. Cut the 
salt pork thin; either trim off the rind or cut through 
it at half -inch intervals; put over the fire in plenty of 
cold water, heat it, and let it boil gently for ten min- 
utes; then dry it on a clean towel, put it in a hot fry- 
ing-pan, and quickly brown it on both sides; season it 
with pepper, and serve it with baked potatoes. 

The dish may be varied by peeling potatoes, cutting 
them in halves, and boiling them with the pork, leav- 
ing them to finish boiling while the pork is being fried. 
Usually, in the country, the drippings of the pork are 
served as gravy. The dish will be more savory and 
wholesome if a gravy is made as follows: pour out of 
the pan all but two tablespoonfuls of the drippings, 
saving them for frying potatoes; put in a heaping ta- 
blespoonful of dry flour, and stir it with the drippings; 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 1Q5 

then gradually stir in either a pint of milk or water or 
half a pint of each; season the gravy thus made highly 
with pepper, stir it until it boils, and then serve it. 
This gravy can be made at any time from cold drip- 
pings, and served with baked or boiled potatoes or 
other vegetables ; it is excellent for warming with 
cold chopped vegetables, or to use with bread for the 
children's supper. Fried mush served with it makes a 
hearty breakfast or supper dish. Cold fried or boiled 
pork in slices may be breaded, or rolled in dry flour 
or Indian meal, or dipped in batter, and fried in plenty 
of smoking-hot drippings. A milk gravy made as di- 
rected above is good to serve with it. 

A bro^rn gravy is made in the same way, except 
that the flour is allowed to brown with the drippings 
before any milk or water is added. 

Salt pork can be baked in savory fashion as follows: 
when milk is abundant, cover a piece of pork with it, 
and let it soak overnight; the next day, three hours 
before dinner-time, drain the pork, cut across the rind 
in opposite directions, so that the surface is covered 
with scores half an inch square; make deep incisions 
by running a sharp knife or the carving steel into the 
pork; moisten some stale bread with some of the milk 
in which the pork was soaked, season it highly with 
pepper and powdered sweet herbs, and stuff it tightly 
into the cuts in the pork; put the pork into a moderate 
oven, with a little of the milk and a plentiful sprink- 
ling of pepper, and bake it slowly; baste it occasionally 
with its own drippings, and dredge it with flour. In 
an hour peel some potatoes and put them into the pan 
with the pork to bake. When the dish is cooked, 
serve it with a gravy made from the drippings; take 
up the pork and potatoes and keep them hot; set the 



1(36 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

dripping-pan OA'er the fire, stir a heaping tahlespoon- 
ful of flour into it, gradually add enough of the milk 
in which the pork was soaked to make a good gravy, 
season it highly with pepper, and then serve the dish. 

An excellent fricassee can be made from salt pork. 
Cut the pork in pieces an inch square, put it over the 
fire in plenty of cold water, and let it heat; change 
the water once or twice if the jDork is very salt; in an 
hour put in an equal quantity of ^^otatoes, peeled and 
cut in large dice, and a tablespoonful each of butter 
and flour rubbed to a smooth paste, and then stirred 
until dissolved in the water in which the pork is boil- 
ing; season the sauce thus made with pepper, adding 
more butter and flour if the first quantity does not 
make the sauce thick enough; when the potatoes are 
done, serve the fricassee. To increase the size of the 
dish, or to vary it when potatoes are not desired, use 
dumj^lings made as follows, or from any preferred rec- 
ipe: Sift a pint of flour w^ith a heaping teaspoonful of 
any good baking powder, or wdth an even teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar and half that quantity of baking 
soda, half a teaspoonful of salt, and an even saltspoon- 
ful of pepper; with cold milk or Avater quickly mix 
the flour to a soft dough; wet a tablespoon in the sauce 
of the fricassee, and use it to drop the dough by the 
spoonful into the sauce, wetting the spoon before cut- 
ting each dumpling; 'cover the saucepan after all are 
in, and boil the fricassee gently and steadily for twenty 
minutes; then serve it hot. 

Chicken fricassee can be varied by rolling the chick- 
en in flour, after it is cut in joints, and frying it with 
enough drippings to prevent burning, and one onion, 
peeled and sliced, to each chicken; when the chicken 
is brown, cover it with boiling water, season it palata- 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. X07 

bly with salt and pepper, and cook it slowly until ten- 
der. Dumplings may be added, as to the pork fricassee. 
The old - fashioned chicken pot - pie was cooked in a 
round-bottomed iron pot, the sides of which were lined 
with crust, over a very slow fire, or in hot ashes and 
embers, or in the oven until the crust was brown; usu- 
ally the crust did not cover the bottom of the pot, be- 
cause of the danger of burning. The chicken was 
sometimes stewed tender in gravy before it was put 
into the crust, and the sides of the pot were buttered 
to assist the browning of the crust. 

An excellent way to use cold chicken is to stew it 
until tender in its own gravy or in just water enough 
to cover it; then butter a baking dish, put in the chick- 
en, pour over it the following batter, and bake it until 
the batter is done in a moderate oven. Beat three eggs 
very light; mix seven tablespoonfuls of flour, one even 
teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, with 
enough cold milk to make a smooth batter, about 
three cupfuls; gradually add all this quantity of milk 
and the beaten eggs, and pour the batter over the 
chicken in the baking-dish ; serve the pudding hot as 
soon as it is done. When eggs are scarce they may be 
omitted, and the batter may be made of sour milk in 
which a teaspoonful of baking soda is dissolved, or 
with sweet milk and a heaping teaspoonful of baking 
powder sifted with the flour. 

One of the best family desserts can be made either 
in city or country of apples and stale bread. Peel ten 
good-sized apples, core and slice them, and stew them 
to a pulp with sugar enough to sweeten them ; mean- 
time thickly butter the sides and bottom of an oval 
earthen baking-dish, and press all around them crumbs 
from the inside of a loaf of bread, having them nearly 



108 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

an inch thick; when the apple is done, mix with it a 
tablespoonful of butter and one Qgg beaten ; put the 
apple into the dish Avithout disturbing the crumbs ; 
over the surface put an inch-thick layer of crumbs 
dotted with a few bits of butter, and bake the pudding 
until the crumbs at the side are brown; turn a platter, 
just large enough to enclose the dish within its rim, 
over the pudding dish, quickly turn both upside-down, 
so that the pudding will slip out on the platter, dust 
it with powered sugar, and serve it hot. 

Sour-milk biscuit is made by mixing flour with sour 
milk, and soda enough to sweeten the milk, usually a 
heaping teaspoonful to a pint. The soda may either 
be sifted into the flour, Avith an equal quantity of salt, 
or dissolved in the milk and then mixed with the flour. 
A more uniform excellence is secured by the first 
method. From two to four tablespoonfuls of short- 
ening may be rubbed or choj^ped into the flour before 
it is wet with the milk, if a rich biscuit is desired, and 
enough flour should be used to make a dough soft 
enough to be easily cut or moulded in biscuit form. 
When there is no sour milk on hand, sweet milk or 
cold water may be used, and two heaping teaspoonfuls 
of any good baking powder sifted with one of salt and 
a quart of flour. A scant even teaspoonful of soda 
and two of cream of tartar may be sifted together, 
and used with a heaping quart of flour and a teaspoon- 
ful of salt instead of baking powder. The advantage 
of any good baking powder over cream of tartar and 
soda is that the proportions are chemically correct, and 
the quantity of the ingredients uniform. But little 
importance is to be attached to tlie large-lettered com- 
parative chemical analyses of different baking pow- 
ders which are published periodically. The safe test is 



SUGGESTIONS FOR COUNTRY HOUSEKEEPERS. 



109 



successful results. N^o manufacturer will hazard his 
business by persistently putting on the market an 
article which is calculated to disappoint customers; 
in fact, there is so much competition in this line that 
inferior goods are unsalable. 

Huckleberry spider-cake or bannock is made like 
biscuit, and cooked over the fire in an old-fashioned 
spider, or iron frying-pan with short legs, a little but- 
ter being used to keep the cake from burning. If a 
deep round pan is laid over the spider loosely, the 
cooking will be facilitated, but care must be taken not 
to confine the heat so as to create steam, for that w^ould 
destroy the crispness of the cake. While the under 
side is browning, the cake should occasionally be lifted 
from the pan with a cake - turner or a broad - bladed 
knife, and, when brown, it should be turned without 
breaking. Until one becomes expert, a buttered tin 
plate may be turned over the toj) of the cake and the 
spider reversed upon it. The cake thus loosened can 
easily be slipped back into the spider, and the cooking 
finished. Raised bread dough may be used for either 
biscuit or spider-cake, the berries being lightly stirred 
into it when it is ready to bake. All these forms of 
bread are served hot wath plenty of good butter. 



IIQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER X. 

VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKERY. 

Those who spend their summers in town certainly 
have the advantage of that migratory section of hu- 
manity from which the typical summer boarder is 
evolved to become the legitimate prey of the average 
country-house keeper. Conditions of comfort may be 
in favor of those who live at well-appointed summer 
hotels, or in those rare country-houses with old-fash- 
ioned gardens and shady groves, where good water is 
available, and where there is at least a share of the 
summer's abundance of fresh fruit and green vegeta- 
bles; but generally the contrast is too great between 
small, stuffy rooms, a scanty and doubtful water sup- 
ply, the monotonous succession of canned vegetables, 
and one's own comfortable sleeping-rooms and toilette 
appliances at home, to say nothing of the seasonable 
profusion of city luxuries. City stay-at-homes can keep 
their rooms shady by day with judicious use of blinds 
and awnings, lowering the temperature to a percepti- 
ble degree by hanging wet sheets or blankets in the 
windows; and then they have the decided advantage 
of cheap and abundant markets; setting aside any ab- 
solute requirement for change of air on the score of 
health, city people accustomed to a certain degree of 
luxury are wise if content to enjoy at home; they need 
not hope to find in their usual outings the varied season- 
able delicacies they can command upon their own tables. 



VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKERY. 



Ill 



But some city housekeepers who depend upon their 
local market-raan or green-grocer to furnish their sup- 
plies do not obtain all the season's variety and abun- 
dance, especially in the line of vegetables and fruit; 
the opportunity for choice of these perishable luxuries 
certainly repays one for the exertion of an early jour- 
ney to the lower markets before the day is old enough 
to give one a foretaste of the horrors of the seventh 
circle. An abundance of fresh vesjetables beino: secured, 
and the means already suggested employed to preserve 
or restore their freshness, some recipes apart from the 
ordinary routine of cooking them may be acceptable. 

Take egg-plant, for instance; usually it is either bread- 
ed or rolled in flour and then fried; the preliminary 
salting is done to deprive it of a certain flavor, some- 
what bitter, parboiling sometimes being resorted to 
for the purpose, but the vegetable can be cooked with- 
out it, and even without peeling, when it is fresh and 
tender, the rind being well-washed, of course. To bake 
egg-plant, wash and wipe it, cut it lengthwise, salt and 
pepper it profusely, and set it in a pan, skin down ; 
bake it until tender in a moderate oven; while it is 
cooking put butter by the teaspoonful upon the top 
until two or three spoonfuls have been absorbed by 
each section; when the egg-plant is tender, serve it 
with the drippings poured over it. Egg-plant will 
usually bake in about half an hour. Another way to 
bake egg-plant is to cut it lengthwise, scoop out the 
interior, leaving only a little attached to the rind ; 
chop it fine, mix it with an equal quantity of bread- 
crumbs, moisten it with gravy, hot or cold, season it 
highly with salt and pepper, restore it to the rind, set 
the sections in a pan just large enough to contain them, 
and bake them in a moderate oven for about half an 



112 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

hour; transfer the egg-plant to a deep dish, pour the 
dripphigs over it, and serve it hot. It may be chopped 
and partly fried with butter, salt, and pepper, and then 
put into a baking-dish with crumbs. A tablespoon- 
ful of dry flour stirred into the frying-pan with the 
drippings in which the egg-plant was fried, and then 
boiled with a pint of hot water and seasoned palatably, 
will furnish sauce enough to moisten the crumbs; put 
on a top layer of crumbs with a few bits of butter 
over them, and brown the dish in the oven before 
serving it. Cold cooked egg-plant can be used in this 
way. A stewed dish of egg-plant, seasoned with gravy 
or with salt, pepper, and butter, will be found good. 
It may be cut in dice, rolled in flour, partly fried in 
butter, and then covered with water, seasoned Avith 
salt and pepper, and stewed gently for five minutes. 
Equal parts of fresh okra, washed and sliced, or of 
tomatoes, may be stewed with it, the seasoning being 
salt, pepper, and butter. Egg-plant cooked, either hot 
or cold, mixed with a thick batter, makes good fritters 
or griddle - cakes for breakfast, luncheon, or suj^per. 
Cold egg-plant mashed, mixed with a little choi^ped 
onion and crumbs if the quantity is small, highly sea- 
soned with salt, pepper, and butter, may be baked in 
small dishes or scallop shells. Small immature egg- 
plants may be pickled whole like cucumbers, or grated, 
salted overnight, and drained the next day, mixed 
with one fourth their quantity of chopped onion or 
grated horseradish, and highly seasoned with mustard 
and celery seed, black and red pepper, and then en- 
tirely covered with cold vinegar, and kept in a cold 
place. 

Okra may be used in soups and stews of meat or 
crabs, or stewed with butter, salt, and pepper, or in 



VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKERY. ^^3 

gravy, or with tomatoes, or fried; cold okra is good 
scalloped, or mashed and fried like oyster-plant. Very 
tender okra makes a good plain or sweet pickle, or a 
good salad with plain dressing. During our " late un- 
pleasantness " the seeds of ripe okra were roasted and 
ground as a substitute for coffee when the "Arabian 
bean " v/as blockaded out of Southern homes. 

Besides being stewed, made into soups, stuffed and 
baked, and fried or broiled, tomatoes may be made into 
pancakes and fritters, fried with cream or brown gravy 
made by thickening the drippings in the pan where 
they were fried, and finishing the gravy with cream, 
or by first browning flour with them, and then making 
the gravy with water; if the tomatoes are rolled in 
flour before they are fried, the addition of very little 
more will suffice, and if it is cooked before the cream 
or water is added the flavor will be improved. Toma- 
toes fried in oil, with a very little garlic or onion, make 
a good sauce for fish or poultry. Cold tomatoes fried 
and served on the dish with cold corn fried are good 
for breakfast or luncheon. In addition to the usual 
method of canning tomatoes, they may be thoroughly 
boiled or baked with plenty of salt, and then put up 
for future use. 

Nearly all housekeepers are familiar with several 
methods of cooking ripe tomatoes, but the following 
hints for using green ones may prove acceptable to 
those who have small gardens of their own. For 
stewed tomatoes, wash and slice them, stew them for 
half an hour with half a cupful each of crumbs and 
butter, and a high seasoning of pepper and salt to each 
quart. Omit the salt, pepper, butter, and crumbs, and 
stew the sliced green tomatoes with half a cupful of 
vinegar to a quart, and sugar enough to sweeten, and 



114 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

use them with cold meat as a sauce, or for pies. Fine 
celery may be cooked as it becomes more abundant; 
cut it like asparagus, boil it in salted boiling Avater 
only until tender^ but not at all watery, and serve it 
hot with salt, pepper, and butter, or with white sauce, 
or cold with French salad dressing or mayonnaise. 
The celery also may be cut in half -inch pieces and 
washed; to a quart so prej)ared add a quarter of a 
pound of cheese grated, a pint of any good gravy or 
sauce, and alternate layers of bread crumbs. Season 
each layer with salt and pepper, dust the top with 
crumbs, and dot it over Avith butter. Bake the celery 
for half an hour, or until it is tender, and serve it hot 
as a vegetable. Or parboil short lengths of tender 
celery, dij) them in batter, and fry them like fritters. 
Chili is an excellent table sauce made from tomatoes. 
Scald ripe, sound tomatoes, peel, and weigh them; to 
every five pounds allow one pound of peeled and 
sliced onions, five ounces of chopped fresh red peppers, 
weighed after the seeds are taken out, a quarter of a 
pound of brown sugar, two ounces of salt, and a pint 
of vinegar; boil all these ingredients slowly in a por- 
celain-lined kettle until they are as thick as jam; tlien 
cool the chili, and bottle it air-tight. Sugar and spice 
may be added at discretion. Combination dishes of 
meat and fresh peppers are often called chilis or chilos. 
For instance, mutton chili is made as follows: Chop 
very fine two pounds of lean mutton cut from the 
neck; remove the seeds from three large green pep- 
pers, and chop them fine; chop also a large Spanish 
onion, or a pint of sweet white onions; chop fine a 
quarter of a pound of mutton suet, and put it, or two 
tablespoonfuls of butter, in a saucepan; add the other 
ingredients, seasoning them with salt, and stew the 



VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKERY. 



115 



chili gently for an hour; if it seems in danger of burn- 
ing, add a little water, but not enough to make it liq- 
uid. AYhile the chili is cooking boil a dish of rice or 
green pease to serve with it. Cold mutton may be 
used for this dish. 

Green peppers, which are j^lentiful in August and 
September, are excellent stuffed Avith cold meat or 
poultry and bread, and baked in gravy; they may be 
fried, or stuffed and stewed, the seeds always being 
removed; as they are very pungent, they may be dried 
for seasoning or pickles. To prej^are Oakland stuffed 
peppers, cut off the tops and scoop out the seeds of 
half a dozen with a small teaspoon; chop an extra 
pepper without the seeds, mix it with a small onion 
peeled and chopped, a cupful of peeled and chopped 
tomatoes, two tablespoonfuls of butter or salad-oil, a 
teaspoonful of salt, and an equal measure of bread 
crumbs; use these ingredients to stuff the peppers, 
replace the stem ends, and bake the peppers for half 
an hour, basting them with butter or salad oil two or 
three times; serve them hot as a vegetable. The 
Mexican dishes nearly all contain a large proportion 
of fresh peppers, and the Colorado chili is made of 
chicken stewed with chopped onion and a pulp of pep- 
pers, and served with a dish of rice. 

The excuse is frequently made by cooks that a vari- 
ety of vegetables cannot be prepared without making 
the atmosphere of the entire house most unpleasant. 
This is a fallacy. The most strongly flavored vege- 
tables, such as cabbage and onions, can be cooked 
with but little escape of their odor if their substance 
is not disintegrated by excessive boiling. The pun- 
gent oil which gives flavor to the different kinds of 
cabbage, turnip, and onion does not escape from their 



IIQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

tissues as long as they remain intact. Advantage may 
be taken of this fact in peeling onions; if only the dry 
outer layers of skin are removed, and the fresh juicy 
portion left uncut, very little of the oil can escape; it 
is so volatile that it dissipates through the air direct- 
ly the vegetable is cut. If onions are held under wa- 
ter while they are being peeled, or in a strong draught 
of air, the oil will not aifect the eyes, because it can- 
not reach them. At least the onions can be held so 
that the oil need not rise directly into the eyes. A 
little washing soda dissolved in the water used for 
washing knives and dishes employed in cooking onions 
will remove the strong odor that remains upon them. 
If a knife that has been used to cut onions is subse- 
quently used for chopping parsley, the odor will be 
overcome. Some cooks always keep a parsley root by 
them, and after cutting onions run the knife through 
the parsley. If a little parsley dipped in vinegar is 
eaten after onions, the odor in the breath will be less 
perceptible. 

The water in which cabbage, turnips, and onions are 
boiled is likely to impart its odor to sinks and drains; 
for destroying the odor keep a lump of washing soda 
in the sink, and pour some boiling water into the drain 
after emptying the cabbage water. Copj^eras water 
is a good deodorizer and disinfectant: it is made by 
putting a pound or more of copperas in a wooden tub, 
and pouring over it two or three pailfuls of boiling 
water. As the copperas dissolves and the water is 
used, more may be added; there should always be some 
undissolved copperas in the bottom of the tub. When 
a strong deodorizer is called for, ten per cent, of car- 
bolic acid may be added to the copperas water. The 
liquid leaves a brownish stain. 



VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKING. jj^ 

This is such a simple and inexpensive disinfectant 
that it leaves no excuse for bad odors about the 
drains. Every housekeeper can see that a pailful of 
hot copperas water is poured into the sink and closets 
at least twice a week, especially in hot weather. 

In the country the water in which vegetables have 
been boiled may go with the pigs' feed, or be poured 
upon the ground far enough from the well to prevent 
any drainage into it. 

To return to the subject of boiling vegetables: Gen- 
erally Americans boil vegetables too long, until their 
substance is so softened as almost to become a pulp; 
in this way the flavor, color, and nutriment are sacri- 
ficed. Sometimes the objection has been made by 
cooks who followed the old method that certain vege- 
tables boiled only until tender were not done. The 
decision is a relative one. When people have been ac- 
customed to eat vegetables boiled to a pulp they may 
think those underdone which retain their form, flavor, 
and color. Strictly speaking, vegetables are done when 
their substance is tender enough to permit of easy 
mastication. In the season of green vegetables illus- 
trations might be multiplied; for present purposes we 
will take the winter varieties, spinach and cabbage. 
The principles that are involved in the cookery of 
spinach will apply to any vegetable known as " greens," 
such as the various kales, cabbage sprouts, beet-tops, 
dandelion, etc.; and what is true of boiling cabbage 
is equally so in regard to Brussels sprouts and cauli- 
flower. The various " greens " are usually boiled un- 
til they are a dark brownish-green mass of pulp and 
fibre, without much individual taste; cooks say they 
are not done before they reach that stage, because 
they are trying to make the fibres of the leaf stems 



IIQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

tender; they boil them until the edible substance is 
almost entirely destroyed, and still the fibres remain. 

If before cooking the vegetables the tough fibres 
were removed, the entire matter would be simplified. 
The objection is sometimes made that this method is 
wasteful. When the ''greens" are too mature it may 
seem so because so much has to be taken away; but 
if an actual measurement of quantity were made be- 
tween vegetables properly trimmed and boiled and 
others untrimmed and boiled to a pulp, the advantage 
of the latter would prove doubtful in point of quan- 
tity, while flavor and nourishment would have been 
sacrificed. The important point is to use only tender 
vegetables, in which the fibre has not become so far 
developed as to be stringy. If their appearance does 
not indicate their condition, break a leaf stem with 
the fingers; if it is likely to cook tender it will be 
rather crisp and succulent as opposed to a tough, 
stringy substance which cannot be broken off. If the 
tender spinach plants are not available, then only the 
tender leaves of the older kind must be used; after 
washing the spinach in plenty of cold water until all 
sand is removed, take off the tough, stringy stalks; 
put the spinach into a large pot half-full of actually 
boiling salted water, and boil it fast until the leaves 
are tender, but not reduced to a pulp: spinach will 
boil in from three to fifteen minutes, according to its 
age. When the spinach is just tender, drain it, throw 
it into a large pan of cold water, and cool it; when it is 
cold, drain it again, pressing the water out of it; this 
process Avill preserve its color and flavor, and it will be 
ready to heat with any sauce, or simply with salt, pej?- 
per, and butter; but do not heat it until jiist before it 
is to be served ; until then leave it in the cold water. 



VEGETABLES AND THEIR COOKING. 



119 



If this process is closely followed, the spinach will 
come to the table green and palatable, a dish wholly 
superior to the astringent, unsightly compound gener- 
ally served. If the flavor of ham or corned beef is 
desired, boil the spinach in water in which either has 
been cooked; but be sure that the water is boiling 
when the spinach is put into it, that there is plenty to 
cover the spinach, and that when it is tender it is 
drained and laid in cold water. The first contact 
w^ith the boiling water closes the cells of the vege- 
table, and preserves its coloring matter and flavor, 
both of which would be soaked out of it by the action 
of simply warm water; the immersion in cold water 
checks the heat, and serves thus to retain the color 
and flavor, which would escaj^e directly the substance 
of the vegetable softened by the continued application 
of heat. 

The same principles apply to the cooking of cab- 
bage. It is usually served in a watery mass of strong 
flavor and disagreeable odor. Under proper treat- 
ment it can be made as delicate and palatable as cauli- 
flower. This assertion may momentarily tax belief, 
but it is correct, as any reader may demonstrate by 
absolutely following the directions here given for 
cooking it. In all the years of teaching cookery a 
cabbage has never been found that could not be boiled 
tender in half an hour; and generally the time re- 
quired is from ten to fifteen minutes. But in order 
to do this there must be no deviation from the fixed 
method: 

Trim off the decayed outer leaves of the cabbage, but 
do not reject the sound green ones. Cut the head in 
quarters, or tear the leaves off, so that the cabbage 
may be thoroughly washed in plenty of cold salted 



120 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

water; before wasLiiig the cabbage put over the fire 
a large kettle half-full of water, salt it, and let it boil; 
after washing the cabbage cut out the tough, stringy- 
parts of the stalks, leaving the tender, succulent por- 
tions; cut the cabbage in pieces which can be man- 
aged at table, about an inch long and half an inch 
wide, but leave several bits of stalk large enough to 
be easily found in trying the cabbage to see if it is 
done. Put the cabbage into the salted boiling water, 
cover the kettle, and boil the cabbage fast; do not 
let the water slop over on the stove, because that 
would make an odor. Boil the cabbage steadily un- 
til the stalk is tender — not soft and watery, but just 
tender enough to be easily masticated. Set aside any 
preconceived ideas of cooking cabbage, and believe 
that it is done as soon as the stalk is tender. Drain 
the cabbage Avhen it is tender, put with it enough salt, 
pepper, and butter to make a palatable seasoning, and 
stir it over the fire until the butter is melted; then 
serve it at once. A little vinegar may be heated with 
the other seasoning; but the cabbage will be best if 
just moistened with white or cream sauce, which may 
be made while it is boiling. Although the recipe has 
been given, it may be well to rej^eat it: Stir together 
a tablespoonful each of butter and flour over the fire, 
and when they bubble gradually stir with them a pint 
of hot water or milk, and a palatable seasoning of salt, 
pepper, and nutmeg; let the sauce boil thoroughly be- 
fore using it. 

Let our readers test this method, and banish forever 
the disagreeable odor of overcooked cabbage from 
their houses. 

The preparation of cabbage for sour-crout is simple 
salting, but the fermentation which attends the i^roc- 



VEGETABLES AND TUEIR COOKERY. ;[21 

• 

ess makes it rather unpleasant to some persons. As 
it is a favorite dish with a large part of our foreign 
population, it may be well to include the recipe in this 
series. Firm white cabbages are chosen, the outer de- 
fective leaves removed, the green ones used to line a 
firkin or barrel, and the rest shaved rather fine, care 
being taken that all are clean; to each peck of shaved 
cabbage allow a pint of salt; pack the cabbage with a 
plentiful sprinkling of salt, using a potato-masher to 
pound it down in the barrel; on the top put a layer of 
green leaves, and a round board weighted with a stone 
to keep the cabbage under the brine; in about six 
weeks the sour-crout will be ready to use. To prepare 
it for the table soak it in cold water until it is only 
palatably salt, then boil it in boiling water as a vege- 
table, or with salt meat, pickled pork, ham, or smoked 
sausage, and serve them together. Cold sour-crout 
may be chopped and fried, or heated with brown gravy 
or sour cream. 

In this era of canned goods city housekeepers are 
not so often called upon to provide a store of fresh 
vegetables for winter use as those who live in small 
country places or on farms far from the vicinity of 
markets; hence comparatively little attention is given 
to any method of preservation except the ordinary one 
of canning. It may therefore be the out-of-town read- 
ers who will practise our grandmothers' wisdom of 
salting green vegetables. The suggestion has been 
made to preserve green corn, string-beans, and aspara- 
gus in this way; cucumbers, cauliflowers, butter and 
Lima beans, and small cucumbers may be salted and 
when needed freshened again either for pickling or 
for table use; placing grape or green cabbage leaves 
among the vegetables tends to preserve their color 



122 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

and prevent the accumulation of mould. Large cu- 
cumbers may be put up for table use by salting; peel 
them, slice them a quarter of an inch thick, pack them 
in wooden kegs with salt plentifully sprinkled among 
them, and allow them to remain in the salt for twenty- 
four hours; then drain them, put them into glass or 
earthen jars with more salt, and close them air-tight. 
When they are wanted for the table, soak them in 
plenty of cold water until they are properly freshened, 
and then dress them like fresh- cucumbers. When anj'- 
of the green vegetables are in season, and reasonable 
in price, they can be put up in firkins or small water- 
tight barrels in this way. 



MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. 123 



CHAPTER XI. 

MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. 

A VEGETABLE production abundant in many parts 
of the country is the field or meadow mushroom. It 
is unfortunate that this delicious fungus is so com- 
paratively little known; it has such definite character- 
istics that no other fungus, either edible or poisonous, 
need ever be mistaken for it. Under favorable con- 
ditions of heat and moisture, generally after late sum . 
mer or early autumn warm rains, the meadow mush- 
room, or " pink gill," springs up in the rich soil of 
sunny pastures where sheep and cattle are kept, or in 
the furrows turned up during late ploughing; it is 
most abundant in September and October. The size 
of the unopen or button mushroom is from half an 
inch to nearly two inches across the surface of the 
knob which presently expands into the cap. The color 
of the top is cream-white, smooth in the early stages 
of growth, and slightly torn or scaled and perceptibly 
darkened as it expands; at first the ca^^ is closely con- 
nected with the stem, and as it parts from the latter 
underneath a ragged ring shows the point of separa- 
tion; the under side of the cap is divided into thin 
gills, running from the outer edge of the cap to the 
top of the stem; the gills are at first of a delicate sal- 
mon-pink color, darkening as the cap expands through 
the shades of dove-color and brown, and finally becom- 
ing almost black; the color of the cap and stem dark- 



224 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

ens a little when broken or bruised; the entire mush- 
room turns brownish-black and decreases in size when 
it is exposed to great heat. The size of the stem is 
greatest near the ground, almost forming a bulb. The 
flesh of the uncooked mushroom is Avhite, rather firm 
as contrasted with a watery substance, of fresh odor, 
and sweet, nutty flavor. The author's test by prefer- 
ence is the taste; any fungus which has an acrid, bit- 
ter, or unpleasant taste is unhesitatingly rejected, and 
about a saltspoonful of salt instantly swallowed for 
the purpose of neutralizing any possibly poisonous ef- 
fect. 

If there is any indication of poisoning from the use 
of mushrooms, emetics and castor-oil should be used 
freely, and a physician called as soon as possible. 
Field mushrooms impart a brown color to the water 
in which they are washed. They should be thoroughly 
washed in plenty of cold water containing a little salt 
and vinegar; the salt is used for the purpose of de- 
stroying insect life, and the vinegar as a possible anti- 
dote to any poisonous matter. It is a fact that some 
decidedly poisonous species of fungi are cooked with 
the addition of vinegar and eaten in Russia. Some 
cooks use a silver spoon in cooking mushrooms, upon 
the theory that the silver will be blackened by any in- 
jurious quality present in the fungus; but other vege- 
tables, notably onions, discolor silver. When field 
mushrooms are abundant, they may be trimmed, the 
caps and stems separated, thoroughly washed in cold 
salted water, and the mushrooms then dried in a cool 
oven, on the rack over the stove, or in the sun, pro- 
tected from dust; for subsequent use they should be 
soaked in cold water until fully expanded, and then 
cooked like fresh mushrooms. Fresh mushrooms may 



MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. ^25 

be baked on toast with salt, pepper, and butter; stewed 
with the same seasonings, and the addition, if it is de- 
sired, of a little water and flour to form a thick gravy; 
or the stems may be stewed and the caps broiled; or 
they may be fried entire in butter; they make an ac- 
ceptable garnish for meat, poultry, and fish, and fla- 
vor sauces well. Mushroom catsup is made by first 
thoroughly cleansing the mushrooms, as already di- 
rected (some English authorities omit the cleansing) ; 
break them with the hand, put them into a wooden 
tub or large jar with salt, six ounces being allowed 
for each gallon of mushrooms; let them remain in the 
salt for three days, in a cool place, stirring them three 
or four times a day; on the third day put them over 
a gentle fire in a porcelain kettle, or in a cool oven in 
an earthen jar, and heat them for about half an hour, 
or until the juice flows freely from them; strain off 
the juice through a hair sieve, boil it for fifteen min- 
utes, and then measure it; to each quart allow a quar- 
ter of an ounce each of whole allspice and black pep- 
per, an inch of ginger root, a bay-leaf, a blade of mace, 
and a dust of cayenne, and boil it down to one half its 
first quantity; then cool it, strain it clear, put it up in 
small clean bottles, and seal them air-tight. A tea- 
spoonful of brandy added to each bottle of catsup will 
preserve it. When only a small quantity of mush- 
rooms is available, they can best be utilized by clean- 
ing and drying them, and then reducing them to a 
powder, which can be used for seasoning dark-colored 
sauces. 

A few words may be said about canned mushrooms. 
They are generally raised in the cellars or caves near 
Paris devoted to the culture of mushrooms in enor- 
mous quantities. If when the can is opened the liquor 



126 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

in it seems clear, and the mushrooms look clean and 
bright Luff in color, free from brownish spots, they 
are of good quality. The liquor is available in cook- 
ing, because it has the characteristic mushroom flavor. 
The liquor from canned mushrooms is made into white 
or brown sauce according to the directions so often 
given for those sauces, the mushrooms heated in the 
sauce, and then served, generally as a garnish; they 
are put into various fricassees and ragouts, and used 
in omelets, minces, and various croquettes; a glass of 
sherry or Madeira is a fine addition to a pint of sauce. 
They enter into the present scheme as a luxury, be- 
cause a half-pound can costs from thirty to thirty-five 
cents. But the fresh mushrooms come quite within 
our limits in many sections of the country. In the 
South during the war they were invaluable as a sub- 
stitute for fresh meat. 

Another edible fungus is the giant puff-ball, which 
grows in all parts of the country in the fall. It ap- 
pears above the ground in the form of a white ball, 
varying in size from a diameter of two or three inches 
to a ball larger than a man's head; it cannot be mis- 
taken, because there is no other fungus like it. When 
it is old the skin is brownish and shrivelled, and if 
broken it sends forth a cloud of smoke and a fine pow- 
der. While the puff-ball is young and fresh the in- 
terior is composed of a Avhite spongy pith, tender and 
sweet; when cooked, the flavor is excellent. The puff- 
ball should be washed, peeled, sliced, and fried with 
butter, salt, and pepper, or stewed with the same sea- 
sonings; frying, however, develops the most intense 
flavor. After the interior begins to turn from white 
to a yellowish color it is no longer fit for food. The 
author does not remember any instance where puff- 



MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. 



127 



balls have been marketed, although their edible quali- 
ties are well known in England and on the Continent. 
The giant puff-ball, or vegetable omelette {Lycoperdon 
gigcmteiim), is the variety in question: the smaller puff- 
balls are not considered edible, and some of them are 
poisonous. 

Young and. sound mushrooms make a good salad 
uncooked. Many of our best-knoAvn old-time flowers 
and garden plants offer a basis for delicious salads. 
In city markets during the spring and summer there 
is an abundance of fresh green salads; water-cress sells 
for ten cents a quart, dandelion and sorrel for five 
cents, chiccory, escarole, corn-salad, and lettuce for 
about five cents, and chives for the same price for a 
bunch with a little soil attached; the chives can be 
planted and repeatedly cut as required, one bunch af- 
fording enough for ordinary use during the entire sea- 
son. Where dandelion plants grow upon lawns and 
terraces, if each one can be covered with earth and 
blanched for about two weeks the leaves will be sweet, 
tender, and delicately colored. A mixture of mustard 
and garden-cress seed can be planted in a window box, 
and cut repeatedly for salads. Young beet leaves, 
carefully washed and served v>dth French dressing, are 
very good either alone or in combination with lettuce. 
Note in passing that this has classic prestige, for it was 
a favorite salad with Grecian epicures. When the 
leaves are larger they are excellent cooked in salted 
boiling water only until tender, then drained and served 
hot with salt, pepper, butter, and vinegar, or cold with 
plain French dressing. Still later in the season, when 
the midrib, or stalk, is quite large, the leaf j^art can be 
strijjped away and cooked as above, and the stalks tied 
in little bunches and boiled and served like asparagus. 



J 28 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

The white beet has been cultivated in Europe for sev- 
eral centuries for such use, the midribs being called 
chards. The leaf -stalk of the cardoon, a sort of this- 
tle, is used in the same way, but it is not cultivated 
for market in this country. Even the common thistle 
can be used for salad; the needle-like spines or prickles 
must be shaved off, and the tender bottom of the flower 
head peeled; this part is like the /ond of the artichoke. 
Like the globe artichoke, which it resembles, the bot- 
tom of the blossom, the fo^id, is used for salad and as 
a vegetable with sauce; the tend.er fonds of cardoons 
and artichokes are eaten raw in salads. 

Kohl-rabi, or turnip-rooted cabbage, is a vegetable 
which has become familiar in markets supplied by 
German gardeners. The root is boiled both for salad 
and as a vegetable, but as a rule no use is made of the 
leaves; they resemble sprouts in flavor when cooked 
similarly; the leaf and leaf -stalk should be cooked 
separately, like mature beet leaves. Very tender kohl- 
rabi is eaten uncooked in salad. Turnip-rooted celery, 
or celeriac, is excellent in salad, a few of the leaves 
chopped, uncooked, and mixed with the root boiled 
and sliced; the uncooked leaves are used in soups and 
force-meats. Artichoke bottoms, when used uncooked 
for salads, are sliced so that a leaf is attached to each 
portion to serve for holding it while dipping it in the 
dressing preparatory to eating it. Uncooked kohl- 
rabi and celeriac are sliced for salads; when any of 
these three vegetables are boiled for salads they are 
cut in small dice, boiled only until tender, and then 
drained and cooled. Parsley or any of the fresh 
sweet herbs can be used as a garnish for any of these 
salads. 

Rampion, the long radish-shaped root of the Cam- 



MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. 



129 



panula rapuncidus^ a pretty garden bluebell, makes a 
good salad; the leaves are as available as the root, 
which somewhat resembles a white radish, but is more 
nutty in flavor; the root can be scraped and washed, 
and eaten, like the radish, with salt. The German 
rampion, or evening primrose, has roots which can be 
similarly used as a salad. Other garden plants suita- 
ble for salads are rape, which, like garden cress and 
mustard, is eaten in the seed leaf, and has a warm, 
aromatic taste; the young shoots of the horseradish 
plants, blanched for several days, make good salad; 
burnet, or pimpernel, which is similar in taste, and the 
bruised leaves of which have the odor of cucumber, 
which is credited by the Italians with making a salad 
both good and beautiful : 

" L' insalata non 5 buona ne hella 
Ove non e la pimpinella;" 

borage, which has the same cucumber odor, abundant 
in nitre, the blue-and- white flowers of which "give 
courage," and beautify a salad of lettuce and nastur- 
tium; fennel, which crowned the gladiator of old, and 
was favored by Bacchus; rocket, with its orange fla- 
vor; sweet woodruff or icaldmeiste7\ so dear to the 
lovers of " Mai trank," the dried leaves of which make 
a delicious tea; tarragon, with its odor of new-mown 
hay and its terrible name of dragon's-wort, which Si- 
beria gave to an appreciative culinary world three 
centuries ago; purslane, a friend in the guise of a gar- 
den pest, for, besides making a good salad, in the ten- 
der stage it gives an excellent dish of greens; hyssop, 
with its thymy odor and varicolored blossoms; lovage, 
like a warm and pungent celery; oxalis, the herb of 
St. Julien, the veritable shamrock, with its lovely rosy 
9 



130 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

blossoms set in tender green, most delicate of flower 
salads; the young shoots of costmary; and in the 
fields and brooks marsh-mallow, cowslip, or marsh- 
marigold, which our pretty girls honor with a place in 
their belts in early spring; brooklime, with its azure 
flowers and dark-green leaves, as good a salad as the 
water-cress beside which it grows; Solomon's seal, with 
its healing roots, the first sprouts of milkweed and bur- 
dock, young fern leaves, the early growths of common 
red-sorrel, and even the humble chickweed, extend the 
list of field salads; samphire, whose wild habitat half- 
way down the cliff of Albion gave the samphire gath- 
erer his " dreadful trade " ; and all the mint family, 
wild and tame, without which the most pronounced of 
spring lambs would not know himself. Truly the tribe 
of field and garden salads is named legion, from dahlia 
petals and masturtium flowers to the sweet pot-herbs, 
with parsley at their head, which stays so long in the 
ground that superstitious gardeners say it has time to 
go nine times to the devil and come back before it 
sprouts. 

The country liver need never be without a salad if 
he will but use his eyes. Even the despised tansy, 
finely chopped and judiciously sprinkled over a green 
salad, provokes the appetite. Let the culinary St. 
Thomas try with his next roast of lamb or veal a salad 
of marsh-mallow, mint, and chives, carefully washed 
and dried, and dressed with salt, pepper, oil, and vine- 
gar; or one of tender spinach and sorrel leaves, com- 
bined with hard-boiled eggs and the plain salad dress- 
ing; or one of parsley and chopped pepper-grass or 
horseradish tufts, and oil and vinegar, with his ham; 
or the wdiite part of leeks, or chives with rampions or 
radishes, and oil and vinegar; or freshly sprung mush- 



MUSHROOMS AND SALAD-PLANTS. 



131 



rooms, with oil and vinegar or lemon juice, and a 
chopped garden pepper. Elder shoots, when they first 
appear, are good; as they grow a little they can be 
cooked like asparagus; the green buds salted are a 
substitute for capers; and even the flowers are made 
into pancakes. Elderberry wine is too well known to 
need recalling to country-bred folks. 

The Italian method of dishing a salad of herbs is to 
arrange each variety in an acute triangle, with the 
apex towards the centre of the dish, and the base at 
the edge, the very centre being a grouj) of flowers, or 
chopped red pepper, or hard-boiled egg, or grated beet- 
root — any spot of vivid contrasting color; the dressing 
is salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. 

While the larger garden salads are only available 
in the country, the seed leaves, such as mustard, cress, 
burnet, borage, can be raised by strewing the seeds on 
a flannel or sponge wet with lukewarm water, or in 
window boxes, or pots kept in a warm place. All the 
salad and pot herbs can be cultivated in this unpre- 
tentious way, parsley, above all, furnishing a perennial 
resource for flavoring and garnishes. 

The roots of parsley, planted in a box or tub, can be 
kept in the cellar during the entire winter, if no frost 
reaches them. If the keepers of boarding-houses and 
country hotels realized how greatly parsley adds to 
the enjoyment of many dishes, besides improving their 
appearance when used simply as a garnish, they would 
use it habitually. It can be raised from seed with but 
little trouble. 



132 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XII. 

SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. 

Certain favorite salads demand a mayonnaise in 
addition to the plain dressing of salt, pepper, oil, and 
vinegar. They come quite within our financial limit 
if made when there is some small portion of poultry, 
veal, or fish to be disposed of; the best fish salad is a 
salmon mayonnaise, although any other sweet and 
firm-fleshed fish may be similarly served. Lobster, 
crawfish, and crabs are the best for salads when fresh- 
ly boiled. But most acceptable to the American pal- 
ate is chicken salad. This is not always well made, 
even on our best tables, unless the housewife has ab- 
sorbed one bit of foreign culinary lore — the cutting of 
the chicken in pieces about half an inch square, after 
freeing it entirely from skin and bone, instead of mak- 
ing a hash of the meat Avhich cannot be distinguished 
from minced veal or fresh pork — two meats which are 
sometimes substituted for chicken at questionable 
tables; pork salad and veal salad are both excellent 
if well made and properly designated. Another point 
to be remembered is the prej^aration of the salad vege- 
table. This is generally either celery or lettuce, but 
escarole may be used, and even the very tender white 
leaves of uncooked cabbage when there is no other 
salad vegetable available. The celery is to be care- 
fully washed, scraped, and cut in small pieces, but not 
chopped fine; the lettuce is to be washed, dried on a 



SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. 



133 



clean towel, and torn with the fingers, not cut with a 
knife. If lettuce is used, the salad must not be put to- 
gether until time for serving it, because the lettuce wilts 
after coming in contact with the vinegar of the salad 
dressing. Two dressings are used — one, the plain salad 
dressing of one third as much vinegar as oil, and a pal- 
atable addition of salt and pepper, sufficient in quanti- 
ty to moisten the chicken and celery, which are used 
in about equal proportions, laid in the centre of the 
salad dish and pressed in the form of a mound with a 
smooth surface ; the mayonnaise is thickly spread 
upon this surface ; the salad decorated with the small 
leaves of lettuce or celery, and, according to taste, with 
hard-boiled eggs, olives, capers, slices of boiled red 
beet, and pickled peppers or gherkins. On no account 
is the inayonnaise to be mixed with the rest of the 
salad until it is served ; and the salad should be kept 
in a very cool place after it is prepared: always bear 
in mind the fact that lettuce wilts very soon after it is 
dressed. 

The French raayonnaise is made without mustard. 
As this dressing is sometinies troublesome to novices, 
we shall give it additional space hereafter, being con- 
tent now simply to outline its preparation. To make 
it, put into a deep bowl an even teaspoonful of salt, a 
quarter of a saltspoonf ul of pepper, a dust of Cayenne, 
the yolk of a raw Qg^^ and a teaspoonful of vinegar or 
lemon juice; mix these ingredients to a cream, and 
then add good salad-oil, drop by drop, stirring constant- 
ly, until a thick paste is formed ; then stir in vinegar or 
lemon juice, drop by drop, until the mayonnaise is 
again liquid ; oil should then be added as before, and 
more vinegar when the mayonnaise thickens, until the 
desired quantity is made, the proportion being pre- 



134 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

served of about three times as much oil as vinegar. 
The mayonnaise, when done, should be thick enough 
to spread upon the surface of the salad. The possible 
difficulties in making this delicious salad dressing will 
be considered, because, although it is expensive, but 
little of it is required for any salad except chicken, 
and it is incomparable in its Avay. Lobster and sal- 
mon mayooinaise are made in the same way, except that 
lettuce is always used for these salads. 

The service of acid fruit with mayonnaise is grow- 
ing in favor; its combination with ripe, uncooked to- 
matoes is almost universal, and it can be as acceptably 
served with water and muskmelons and other subacid 
fruit. The combination may seem peculiar at first 
thought, but it is worthy of consideration, as is the 
use of the plain French salad dressing with such fruit 
as tart apples peeled and sliced, firm sour peaches, and 
pears not quite ripe. Juicy lemons sliced thin, served 
with lettuce, oil, salt, and cayenne, make a refreshing 
salad. Grape fruit, which is less sour than lemons, 
and slightly bitter, makes a tonic salad, with mayon- 
naise or oil ; if laid overnight in sugar it is a most 
refreshing and appetizing breakfast dish; every par- 
ticle of rind and white inner membrane must be re- 
moved before the grape fruit is dressed either with oil 
or sugar. 

A delicious spring salad for the lovers of onions is 
a combination of tart apples peeled and sliced, with 
young green onions chopped, and plain salad dressing. 
The salad of tart apples, sliced lemon, oil, salt, and 
cayenne is good with cold roast or boiled meats. The 
young onions, with unripe currants or gooseberries 
and plain salad dressing, are excellent with salt mack- 
erel boiled or broiled for a breakfast dish. Later in 



SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. 



135 



the year ripe currants or barberries, witb young onions, 
sliced cucumbers, or lettuce, and plain dressing, are re- 
freshing and wholesome. Acid plums are good with 
tnayonnaise, and the large red sour cherry called Mo- 
rella is delicious. 

With the exception of the orange salad, which is ex- 
cellent w^ith broiled poultry or game birds, fruit salads 
with oil are more suitable for breakfast and luncheon 
than for dinner, although some of the acid-fruit sal- 
ads with sugar may replace the Roman punch at din- 
ner. For this service any of the following fruits are 
suggested: grape fruit or lemons entirely freed from 
white membrane and skin, cut or torn in small mouth- 
fuls, and laid in powdered sugar on ice for tw^o or three 
hours; sour white plums or large Morella cherries, 
stoned and laid in powdered sugar; or, most refreshing 
of all, subacid pineapple, peeled, torn from the core 
with a silver fork, dusted W' ith powdered sugar, and 
served at once. 

Pineapples should alw^ays be kept in a cold place, 
and used before they soften to the point of decay. In 
the Indies care is taken not to slice the fruit with the 
same knife used for cutting the rind; the reason has 
been given in an English medical journal that the rind 
contains an acrid element so pow^erful as to affect 
the mucous membrane to an irritating degree. Salted 
water held in the mouth for a moment will allay this 
irritation to a degree, even if it does not prove entirely 
palliative. We who have been bitten by its kisses 
might do well to test this assertion, and all should 
mark the difference in the flavor of pineapples cut 
with steel and silver knives. Now that the pineap- 
ple, like the orange, has become so abundant in North- 
ern markets, it deserves the attention of the econom- 



136 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



ical housekeeper; and a little later some good recipes 
will be given for using it. Meantime its use at dinner, 
when the appetite requires a slight incentive, is sug- 
gested: the single flavor of the fruit without sugar or 
other dressing is most refreshing; if the fruit is very 
sweet, a glass of sherry thrown over it at the moment 
of serving will prevent any cloying tendency. Direct- 
ly after the fish there may be a service of fresh pine- 
apple or melon, very cold, as a salad among the relishes. 
Of course this use of the pineapple is intended for the 
season when the fruit is sold, as it is in New York, for 
about ten cents; the plump, juicy strawberry pineapple 
is best for this service; the more expensive sugar-loaf 
is sweeter and more in place as a dessert fruit. Sherry 
or claret may be added to any of the fruit salads. 

The foregoing directions would seem clear enough 
to insure success in making mayo7inaise, but it may 
be well to specify some of its difficulties and their 
remedy. Several conditions which may cause partial 
or entire failure may be avoided with a little fore- 
thought. The so-called " breaking " or " curdling " of 
the mayonnaise is caused by the failure of the oil and 
vinegar to blend thoroughly from the outset, or by 
their separation after the dressing is partly made. 
The temperature of the atmosphere may occasion this, 
w^hen it is too high, or an improper proportion of oil 
and acid, or careless mixing, will have like effect. The 
first cause of failure, heat, may be avoided by placing 
the bowl in which the dressing is to be made in a pan 
of pounded ice; or, failing that, of water containing salt 
enough to lower its temperature decidedly; the ad- 
ditional precaution may be taken of keeping all the 
ingredients for the dressing in the coldest available 
place. No ordinary degree of cold w^ill injure either 



SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. i^^j 

oil, eggs, lemons, or vinegar, from which mayonnaise 
is made. If these ingredients are cold, and the process 
already given for making the dressing is followed pre- 
cisely, and the dressing breaks despite the care taken, 
the oil and vinegar are probably not mingled in the 
right proj^ortion; the possible breaking of the dressing 
is indicated when the gradual addition of oil does not 
thicken it; sometimes at this stage the judicious use 
of vinegar, a few drops at once, and continued stirring 
without the addition of more oil, will restore the creamy 
consistency. But if the division of the particles of the 
dressing becomes marked by a granular or curd-like 
appearance, time and Jabor will be saved by ceasing 
the operation at once, and beginning to make another 
dressing. Do this by putting into a clean cold bowl 
half an even teaspoonf ul of salt, the yolk of a raw egg, 
and a- dust of cayenne; mix these ingredients to a 
cream, add oil and vinegar drop by drop, first using 
the oil until a thick paste is formed, and then slightly 
thinning it with vinegar, and again thickening it with 
oil: at this stage slowly add the curdled dressing, a 
few drops at once, stirring it constantly; this addition 
must be made very carefully, and more fresh oil or 
vinegar alternated with the curdled dressing, accord- 
ing as either ingredient has been omitted from it. The 
proper proportion is about three times as much oil as 
vinegar, and it is always well to measure them before 
commencing to make the dressing. If the dressing 
breaks a second time, as it sometimes will in hot 
weather, there is nothing to be done but to cool all the 
ingredients and begin again. Kever put the broken or 
curdled dressing aside as useless; a couple of hours' rest 
in a cold place will restore to the oil sufficient body to 
thicken the dressing. One hot summer day a jar of 



138 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

dressing had been promised to a friend in time for the 
afternoon sailing of the Cornwall boat; of course the 
old adage verified itself, " The more haste the less 
speed"; one, tvro, three attempts' were failures, until 
a fresh bottle of cold oil gave satisfactory results. 
The failures were hurried ignominiously into one bowl, 
which was put into the refrigerator. Upon the return 
from the boat landing they were inspected, and found 
to have righted themselves; a solid mayonnaise was 
ready for the dish of fresh sliced tomatoes that is such 
an accej^table accompaniment to a summer dinner. 

Some persons dislike the idea of using the right pro- 
portion of oil for a mayonnaise; to them may be sug- 
gested two ways of making a substitute for the dress- 
ing, which were learned from one of the chefs employed 
at the school of cookery ; as both are palatable and in- 
expensive, they are commended to our readers. Half 
a pint of cold asjoic jelly, or of consomme or bouillon 
containing enough of the gelatinous substance of the 
bones used in making it to be as thick as wine jelly 
when cold, is to be warmed until slightly liquid ; then 
the raw yolk of an Q^^, a palatable seasoning of salt, 
pepper and vinegar, and a gill or less of oil, are thor- 
oughly mixed with the melted jelly, until a dressing 
is made, of the right flavor and of thick, creamy con- 
sistency. When there is no meat jelly or consomme 
on hand, enough dissolved gelatine may be used to pro- 
duce the proper consistency; but little will be required, 
the fact being remembered that the ordinary package 
of gelatine makes about two quarts of wine jelly. 
The second process is to make a thin white sauce, 
which when cold shall be about the consistency of 
mayonnaise; about a heaping teaspoonful of flour will 
thicken a pint of water; put the flour into a saucepan 



SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. I39 

with a tablespoonf ul of butter, and stir them until they 
begin to bubble; then gradually stir in a pint of boiling 
water; if the sauce is carefully made it will not need 
to be strained ; let it boil, season it j^alatably with salt, 
white pepper, and cayenne; take it off the fire, stir 
in the yolk of a raw egg, and two tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar or lemon juice; when the sauce is nearly 
cold stir in six tablespoonfuls of olive-oil ; the sauce, 
when cold, should be as thick as inayo7inaise, perfect- 
ly smooth, of a light yellow color and pleasantly acid 
flavor. Some discretion is necessary in the use of the 
flour, because, as housekeepers know, flour containing 
raiuch gluten thickens more than that which has an ex- 
cess of starch ; for this reason it is w^ell to allow the 
sauce to become nearly cold before adding the oil; 
then, if it is too thick, a little boiling w^ater beaten into 
it W'ill make it of the right consistency before the oil 
is stirred into it. 

If people would only think a little, they w^ould real- 
ize that a vegetable fat like olive-oil must necessarily 
be purer than any animal fat can be; they object to 
the use of salad-oil, and constantly use butter, lard, 
and oleomargarine, any one of which may contain the 
germs of disease. The objection may be made that 
pure olive-oil cannot always be obtained. The chief 
adulterations of salad-oil are by the substitution or 
combination of peanut, cotton-seed, and mustard oils; 
all these vegetable oils are innocuous, and, when not 
rancid, they are sweet and nutritious. The adulter- 
ation to be feared is the use of lard oil. The safety 
here lies solely in the integrity of the wholesale dealer 
in such supplies. In many instances local dealers, es- 
pecially in small towns, have no i^ersonal knowledge 
of the goods they sell. They accept any brand of 



140 FAMILY LIVING ON f500 A YEAR. 

goods sent by their jobber. In the course of certain 
far-away lesson-tours the assurance has been received 
that no such goods existed as were called for, that 
certain articles sold daily in such cities as New York 
and Chicago were quite imaginary, and this assurance 
was most gravely made. If an explanation were en- 
tered upon, the dealer generally took refuge in the 
statement that there was "no demand for such things," 
In one recent experience in a Western city of some 
forty thousand inhabitants this excuse of "no de- 
mand" was made to do duty in response to a re- 
monstrance concerning the quality of canned goods. 
Only a poor grade was obtainable, and several grocers 
gave as a reason the fact that there was no call for a 
better quality of goods, and that housekeepers refused 
to pay the price of first-class goods. If this were 
true, those very housekeepers would do well to inform 
themselves as to the actual physical effect of low- 
grade or inferior goods, especially if they are pre- 
served in tin, and of adulterated or " sophisticated " 
articles of food. 

To return to the question of mayonnaise: Olive-oil 
is one of the most important of fats, so wholesome that 
it becomes invaluable in cases of impaired or deficient 
nutrition. As this effect of oil will be treated fully in 
the work devoted to sanitary living, it may suflice 
to say here that a mayonnaise made according to the 
recipe in which the full proportion of oil is used is an 
incomparable food for consumjjtives and for children 
whose nutrition is imperfect. Although contrary to 
epicurean usage, it may be eaten with any green salad, 
such as lettuce, celery, escarole, tender white cabbage, 
fresh tomatoes, acid oranges and grape fruit, sour ap- 
ples, and any acid fruit. A favorite Cuban salad is 



SALADS WITH MAYONNAISE. 



141 



alligator pear with mayonnaise. Watermelon and 
firm subacid rauskmelon make a delicious salad with 
mayonnaise. Some persons become so pleased with 
its flavor that they eat it spread upon crackers or bread 
in lieu of butter. It makes an acceptable sauce for 
boiled asparagus, the vegetable, either hot or cold, 
being drained, and served uj)on toast or on a folded 
napkin. Mayonnaise should be one of the staple foods 
of consumptives and delicate children. 



142 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PICKLES. 

Late summer and early autumn offer a great variety 
of immature fruit and green vegetables for pickling; 
peaches, citron-melons, large cucumbers, small green 
tomatoes, green grapes, small green muskmelons, 
watermelons, quinces, and pumpkins are generally 
used for sweet or spiced pickles ; and the various 
gherkins, button onions, martinoes, green beans, cab- 
bage, cauliflowers, and tomatoes, both ripe and green, 
afford abundant material for sour pickles. 

Small ears of corn in which the cob is still tender 
may be pickled like cucumbers; sweet-corn can be 
salted in brine for winter use, first boiling and skim- 
ming the brine, and then immersing the corn in it 
after it is cold; aflat stone should be used to keep the 
corn under the brine, and before it is used it should be 
freshened to a palatable degree by soaking in fresh 
water; the brine should contain all the salt it Avill 
absorb. String-beans, asparagus, and egg-plant may 
be similarly kept in brine for winter use. Corn, beans 
of all kinds, fresh pease, and okra are excellent for 
canning. 

Green tomatoes enter largely into chow-chow and 
the stufiing for green peppers; a recipe for stewing 
them has been given; they can be sweetened and 
spiced to use as a table sauce, or pickled as follows, 
with onions : To prepare the pickle of tomatoes and 



PICKLES. 



143 



onions, wash the green tomatoes and slice them; peel 
and slice an equal measure of white onions; for each 
gallon of these vegetables wash or peel and slice four 
green peppers; put the different vegetables in separate 
wooden or earthen vessels with a liberal sprinkling of 
salt, and let them stand overnight; the next day drain 
off the brine which has formed; add to each gallon of 
the pickle a cupful of brown sugar and a heaping 
tablespoonful of unground cloves, mace, and allspice, 
mixed in equal quantities; put the pickle into earthen 
jars, cover it with cold vinegar, and keep it in a cool, 
dark place. To make a sweet pickle of green toma- 
toes, wash and slice them; add to each pound a quar- 
ter of a pound of brown sugar and a lemon sliced, a 
palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and mixed ground 
spice, and stew them to a pulp over a gentle fire, tak- 
ing care that they are stirred frequently enough to 
prevent burning; when the pickle is done, cool it, 
and put it up in glass jars; it may be used as a table 
sauce or for pies. To prepare a tomato paste for 
flavoring sauces and macaroni, wash and slice a peck 
of ripe tomatoes, two large carrots, and two medium- 
sized onions; put them over a gentle fire in the pre- 
serving kettle with a small stick of fine cinnamon, a 
teaspoonful each of whole cloves and peppercorns, 
an entire plant of celery washed and sliced — stalk, 
leaves, and root — and a level tablespoonful of salt; boil 
the vegetables slowly until they are soft enough to be 
rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher; return 
the pulp thus made to tlie fire and again boil it, with 
frequent stirring to prevent burning, until a little 
cooled upon a plate is as thick as jelly; then remove 
it from the fire, spread it about half an inch thick on 
earthen plates, and place it in a cool oven or in the 



144 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sun, protected from dust, to dry thoroughly. When 
quite dry the tomato paste may be cut in convenient 
pieces, and packed in wooden boxes with white paper 
between the layers. Two or three inches of this paste 
boiled with a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, 
a pint of boiling water, and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper make a good tomato sauce. The ad- 
dition of parsley, mace, bay-leaf, and a little garlic 
or onion to each peck of the tomatoes improves the 
flavor of the sauce. 

Although some objections are made to onions be- 
cause of their odor, they make one of the most whole- 
some pickles for those who can digest them, and they 
may be made most easily: the onions are to be peeled 
Avithout cutting the tops and roots closely enough to 
break them apart, and soaked for twenty-four hours in 
strongly salted water; then they should be wiped with 
a clean soft cloth and put in glass jars with a few 
red peppers; one jar should be flUed with vinegar, 
the quantity measured, and enough allowed for all the 
jars; to each quart of vinegar add a heaping teaspoon- 
ful of whole spices mixed; scald the vinegar with the 
spices, and cool it; put it into the jars, distributing 
the spices through the jars; the second and third days 
scald the vinegar, cool it, and pour it into the jars 
again, sealing them air-tight on the third day. An 
old-fashioned mixed pickle, called oil pickle, contains 
onions, a quart being alloAved to a dozen medium-sized 
cucumbers. Wash both vegetables, peel and slice the 
onions, and slice the cucumbers across a quarter of an 
inch thick; sprinkle them liberally with salt, and let 
them stand half a day; drain them, add to each gal- 
lon one ounce each of whole cloves and allspice, and 
put the pickle into glass jars; mix together four ounces 



PICKLES. 145 

of ground mustard, four teaspoonfuls of pepper, and 
half a pint of good salad-oil, and divide the mixture 
among the jars; pour into each jar enough cold vin- 
egar to cover the pickles, and then seal the jars. 

Gherkins, or small cucumbers, are pickled as fol- 
lows: wash them in cold water, and pack them in 
wooden tubs or earthen jars; dissolve salt in cold 
water, using all the salt that the water will receive, 
and then pat the brine thus formed over the fire to 
boil; remove all scum as it rises, and when the brine 
is clear, strain and cool it; it should be salt enough to 
float a raw egg ; when the brine is cold cover the 
pickles with it, lay a wooden cover over them weighted 
with a stone, and let them stand about ten days; re- 
ject the soft ^Dickies at the end of that time, soak the 
others for two days in cold water, changing the water 
twice, and then wipe them with a soft cloth and put 
them into smaller tubs or jars; allow a tablesj^oonful 
of whole mixed spices to each quart of pickles, and 
vinegar enough to cover them; scald the spices with 
the vinegar, and cool it before pouring it upon the 
gherkins; then close them from the air. If a green 
color is desired, proceed as follows: after the gher- 
kins are first salted and then freshened and wiped 
dry, put them into a preserving kettle with layers of 
grape or green cabbage leaves, pour over them enough 
cold water to cover them, make the kettle as near 
steam-tight as possible by putting a cloth under the 
cover, and slowly heat and scald the gherkins until 
they steam freely; examine them to see if they are 
green enough; if not, put in more leaves and continue 
the scalding; the pickles must not be allowed to boil, 
lest they become soft. After the scalding is done, 
cool the pickles, and then pack them in tubs or jars; 
10 



146 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the addition of a piece of alum about a quarter of an 
inch square to a gallon of pickles will harden them 
without injury. 

Martinoes or martynias, which are favorite vegeta- 
bles for pickling, are treated as follows: the pods, which 
somewhat resemble okra, are washed in cold water, 
wiped dry, put into a wooden tub, and covered with 
cold brine made of water to each quart of which a 
cupful of salt is added, the brine being boiled and 
skimmed clear; after the martinoes have been salted 
thus for two days, vinegar enough to cover them is 
scalded with any spice and seasonings preferred, and 
poured hot upon the martinoes; after they are cold 
they are protected from the dust, and kept about two 
weeks before they are used. 

The large cucumbers w^hich are marketed in the fall, 
or the last immature crop, may be utilized in the form 
of catsup. Peel the cucumbers, scrape out the seeds, 
grate them in a coarse grater, and squeeze away all 
possible moisture; to fifty large cucumbers allow four 
large onions, which must also be peeled and grated; 
with these ingredients mix an ounce of celery seed, a 
heaping teaspoonf ul of pepper, a tablespoonful of salt, 
half a pint of salad oil, and enough cold vinegar to 
make a catsup of ordinary thickness; season it highly 
with salt and cayenne, and put it up in air-tight jars 
or bottles. 

To make red cabbage pickle, trim the defective 
leaves from a sound cabbage, shave it thin and sprinkle 
salt through it, allowing half a cupful to each small 
cabbage; leave it in the salt for a day or two; then 
drain it, and put it in earthen jars; half a cupful of 
whole mixed spice and a red beet sliced should be dis- 
tributed among each cabbage; over all pour enough 



PICKLES. 147 

scalding hot vinegar to reach above the cabbage; when 
it cools, close it from the air. Another way is to let 
it stand one day in salt, another day in cold vinegar, 
and on the third day to cover it with vinegar scalded 
with whole spice and sugar; in about a month the 
pickle is ready for use. 

Green peppers are pickled as follows: soak them 
overnight in salted water; cut off the stem ends and 
scoop out the seeds; for two dozen, peel and chop a 
pint of white onions, six large cucumbers, and a head 
of celery; mix with them a teaspoonful each of whole 
cloves, allsjDice, and pej^percorns, a level dessertspoon- 
ful of pepper, a gill of salad-oil, and enough vinegar 
to moisten them; stuff the peppers, put in the stem 
ends, and tie them securely; pack the stuffed peppers 
in wooden tubs or stone jars, cover them with scald- 
ing hot vinegar, and keep them in a cool place. The 
various chow-chows contain green peppers in combi- 
nation Avith other vegetables. Maryland chow-chow 
is made by washing and slicing four quarts each of 
onions and green tomatoes, four green peppers with the 
seeds, and six dozen cucumbers; they are put in a 
wooden tub in layers, with a pint each of salt and small 
red i3eppers, and let stand overnight; the next day the 
brine is drained off, and the salted vegetables are 
boiled for half an hour in a porcelain kettle, with three 
tablespoonfuls of mustard and an ounce of turmeric, 
mixed with a cupful of cold water, half an ounce each 
of whole cloves and peppercorns, an ounce each of cel- 
ery seed, white mustard seed, whole mace, and grated 
horseradish, two pounds of brown sugar, and enough 
cold vinegar to cover all these ingredients; when the 
pickle is cold, it is closed away from the air. The 
Kentucky chow-chow consists of equal measures of 



248 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

wliite cabbage, green tomatoes, cucumbers, and green 
peppers, all washed and sliced thin; to four quarts of 
each of these vegetables a pint each of small red pep- 
pers and salt is allowed, together with an ounce each of 
mace, peppercorns, and mustard seed, and half an ounce 
each of celery seed, cloves, and grated horseradish; 
all these ingredients are covered with cold vinegar, 
heated, and boiled together for half an hour; then they 
are cooled, and put up air-tight in glass or stone jars. 

In the South ripe muskmelons, which are abundant 
all over the country in late summer, are made into pick- 
les both sweet and sour, and into mangoes. For large 
green muskmelons, cut them in quarters or eighths, 
pare them carefully, take out the seeds, cover them 
with cold vinegar, and let them stand overnight; the 
next morning measure the vinegar, allow half a pound 
of sugar to each pint, and boil them together with half 
an ounce of whole mixed spices to each quart of syrup 
until it begins to thicken; then boil the melon in the 
syrup until it begins to look clear; at that point put it 
into jars, boil the syrup until it thickens again, and 
pour it over the melons. Put them up like preserves. 

To make a pickle of small melons, wash them thor- 
oughly, cut them in halves, remove the seeds, but do 
not peel them ; w^eigh the melons without the seeds, and 
allow one third their weight of sugar; dissolve an 
ounce of alum in four quarts of water, and boil the 
melons in it for fifteen minutes; boil the sugar with 
vinegar, a pint to a pound; add to this quantity half 
an ounce of whole mixed spice, and when the syrup be- 
gins to thicken transfer the melon to it, and boil it until 
it looks clear; then finish it according to the preceding 
recipe. For mangoes, use small ripe muskmelons; 
wash them with a brush, cut out a small circular piece 



PICKLES. 149 

around the stem, saving it, and remove the seeds 
through this aperture with a small teaspoon ; measure 
cold water enough to cover them, dissolve in it all the 
salt it will contain, and boil and skim it clear; when 
this brine is cold, pour it over the melons, and let them 
stand for a week. For a dozen melons allow two green 
peppers, one onion, four cucumbers, an ounce each of 
grated horseradish, mustard and celery seed, and mixed 
cloves, allspice, and mace, a pound of brown sugar, 
and enough salad-oil to moisten all these ingredients; 
if there is not enough to fill the melons, add a little 
chopped cauliflower or white cabbage; fill the melons, 
replace the stem ends, and tie them in place with cord. 
Pack the melons in a wooden tub, or jar, and cover 
them with boiling vinegar; keep them closed from the 
air. 

Green mangoes are prepared by salting in brine for 
a week, then simmering in vinegar for half an hour, 
and after that stufting them much in the same way 
as the ripe melons, and keeping them in vinegar like 
other pickles. 

Spiced peaches are prepared by brushing the skins, 
sticking six or eight whole cloves in each, and then 
covering them with cold vinegar; if any mould shows, 
the vinegar is to be scalded, and again poured over 
the peaches, which are to be kept cool. Sweet pickled 
peaches may be left uncut, or the stones may be removed 
from the halves; brush off the fur, or peel them, and 
then weigh them; allow half their weight of sugar, 
a quart of vinegar, and a heaping tablespoonful of 
whole spice to each pound of sugar; boil the sugar 
and vinegar together, removing all scum as it rises; 
when the syrup is clear, put in as many peaches as 
will float, and boil them until they begin to soften. 



150 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

then skim them out; when all the peaches are boiled 
put in the spice, and boil the syrup until it thickens; 
put the peaches in jars, pour the hot syrup over them, 
and when they are cold seal them air-tight. 

Peach mangoes are made from sound, firm fruit. 
Brush the fur, and soak the peaches overnight in cold 
water containing as much salt as it will dissolve; the 
next day cut out the stones, laying the peaches in vin- 
egar and water, and then fill them with the follow- 
ing mixture, allowing about one fourth of the bulk of 
the peaches; one fourth each of grated horseradish, 
mustard and celery seed, brown sugar, and minced 
onion; season the mixture highly with whole or ground 
cloves, mace, allspice, pepper, and salt; moisten it with 
cold vinegar and salad-oil; a little turmeric may be 
added if a yellow color is desired ; fill the peaches with 
the stuffing, fit a j^iece of peach into the hole in the 
skin, fastening it with a small wooden skewer, or tie 
the peaches with stout thread; pack them in jars, cov- 
er them with cold vinegar, pour a little salad-oil over 
the surface, and keep them cool. The use of the oil 
makes the mangoes keep w^ell. 

Green grapes make a good table sauce or catsup. 
Wash and stem them; to five pounds add sufficient 
water to keep them from burning, and stew them 
gently until they can be rubbed through a sieve with 
a potato-masher to extract the seeds; return the pulp 
thus made to the preserving-kettle; add these season- 
ings to it: one tablespoonful each of ground cinnamon, 
cloves, allspice, pepper, and salt, a pint of vinegar, and 
two pounds of brown sugar, and boil the catsup until 
it is as thick as other catsups; then cool it in the ket- 
tle, and bottle and seal it. When both elderberries 
and green grapes are obtainable, one fourth of the 



PICKLES. 25 J 

grapes may be used with three fourths of the berries. 
The grapes are to be squeezed from the skins — the lat- 
ter being saved — and then stewed with the berries until 
the seeds can be separated from the pulp by rubbing 
through a sieve; the pulp, grape -skins, a cupful of 
vinegar to five pounds, and sugar enough to sweeten 
them, are then to be boiled gently until they begin to 
thicken. The sauce may be used with meats, or for 
making pies or puddings. Elderberries, ripe in mid- 
summer, may be made into preserves, jellies, or wine. 

During the summer limes and lemons are plentiful; 
they make delicious sweet and spiced pickles. An 
old colored cook's recipe for lemon pickle is as follows: 
Chocse small, sound lemons, wipe them with a wet 
cloth, and then rub them dry with a soft cloth; score 
the skins several times without cutting into the pulp, 
rub salt into the cuts, and pack the lemons side by side 
in an earthen dish; let them stand in the brine for 
several days in a cool place until the rinds begin to 
grow tender, turning them two or three times a day. 
When the rinds soften, pour the brine into a preserving- 
kettle, after measuring it and adding an equal quanti- 
ty of vinegar; to each quart of the mixture allow two 
small cloves of garlic peeled and crushed, two ounces 
of mustard seed, and half an ounce each of whole all- 
spice and ginge^ root; boil and skim this pickle until 
it is clear, and then cool it, and pour it over the lem- 
ons, which should be packed in w^ood or glass. Limes 
may be pickled in the same way, or as follows: Weigh 
the limes, and weigh a double quantity of loaf-sugar; 
wash the limes, then boil them in two or three waters 
until the rinds- are tender enough to be easily pierced 
with a straw, when they may be drained; meantime 
melt the sugar with a gill of cold water to each pound. 



152 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



and boil and skim it until it is clear and forms a good 
syrup; the limes may be cut or left whole, and boiled 
in the syrup until they begin to look clear; after that 
they are to be put up like other preserves. 

For pickling plums use unripe or quite hard sound 
fruit; those so immature that the stones have not yet 
hardened are the best. Wash the plums in cold wa- 
ter, wipe them off on a soft cloth, put them into glass 
or earthen jars; cover one jarful with cold vinegar, 
pour it out, measure it, and allow the same quantity 
for each jar; scald the vinegar with any spice desired 
and salt; a dessertspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful each 
of mustard seed and unground pepper, and a table- 
spoonful of whole spice, mixed, to each quart of vin- 
egar, will give the plums a good flavor; skim the vin- 
egar, and when it is hot pour it over the plums; let 
the vinegar remain upon the plums overnight; the 
next day again scald it and pour it over them. When 
the pickled plums are quite cold, close the jars air- 
tight. Ripe plums for pickling should be washed, 
wiped dry, the skins pricked to prevent bursting, and 
boiled for five minutes in a syrup made of sugar and 
vinegar with the desired quantity of whole spice; the 
syrup is then reduced to the proper consistency by 
boiling, and used cold to put up the plums, like other 
preserves. 

To i^ickle pears choose the hard, green kind, which 
are usually stewed or baked; wash them in cold water, 
and wipe them. For two dozen pears allow one doz- 
en button onions, which must be peeled without break- 
ing; put both into a porcelain preserving-kettle with 
three quarts of vinegar and a teaspoonful of salt, and 
boil them steadily until the pears can be pierced with 
a sharp knife, but are not at all broken, and then take 



TICKLES. 



153 



them out of the vinegar with a skimmer and lay them 
on a sieve; put into the vinegar a tablespoonful each 
of peppercorns and turmeric, a teaspoonful each of 
whole cloves, mustard seed, coriander seed, and whole 
allspice, six blades of mace, tv/o ounces of green gin- 
ger root scalded and scraped, and two small cloves of 
garlic; let the vinegar and spices boil together for 
a few moments while the onions are being rubbed 
through a sieve with a potato-masher, then put the 
onion pulp with them, and continue the boiling while 
the pears are being peeled, quartered, cored, and put 
into jars; pour the hot vinegar and spices over them, 
close the jars air-tight at once, and keep the pickles in 
a cool, dark place. At any appearance of fermentation 
scald the vinegar and pour it again upon the pickles. 

Apples of firm substance make good pickles if they 
are not boiled too long; sweet apples retain their form 
best; they should be quartered and cored, not neces- 
sarily peeled, and boiled until they look a little clear 
in a syrup made of vinegar and sugar, spices being 
used at discretion. Crab - apples make good pickles, 
as well as excellent jelly and preserves. 

Among pickles, pineapple will certainly be a novel- 
ty to many. Peel and slice the fruit, put it in a deep 
dish with whole cloves and cinnamon, an ounce of 
each to about ten pounds; dissolve five pounds of 
sugar in a quart of vinegar, and boil it; pour the 
syrup scalding hot over the fruit, and let it stand 
overnight; the two next days drain off and scald the 
syrup and return it to the j^ineapple; on the third 
day boil both fruit and syrup together for half an 
hour, and then put the pickled pineapple up like other 
preserves. 



154 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, AND FRUIT CORDIALS. 

The process of canning fruits does not differ ma- 
terially from that of canning vegetables, unless the 
fruit is first scalded in syrup before it is put into the 
jars, but it does not need to be boiled so long. For 
berries, fifteen minute^ will be long enough; large 
currants, cherries, and grapes, twenty minutes ; peach- 
es, pears, plums, apples, and cut pineapples, about 
twenty -five minutes; pineapples uncut, quinces, and 
hard pears require about half an hour from the time 
when the steam begins to escape freely. The fruit is 
to be packed rather closely in jars, without sugar or 
water, the jars set in racks in the boiler, or surrounded 
with straw or hay, cold water enough added to reach 
two thirds up the sides of the jars, and the cover of 
the boiler made as nearly steam-tight as possible by 
fitting it on over a cloth or rubber band. The boiler 
is then to be put over the fire, and the boiling steadily 
continued for the requisite length of time. For can- 
ning fruit with sugar, make a syrup of the desired 
sweetness, boil the fruit in it until it begins to look 
transparent, but not until it breaks, and then transfer 
it scalding hot to cans heated in hot water; fill the 
cans to overflowing, and at once screw on the covers; 
when the jars are cold, tighten the covers, and turn 
the jars on the tops to make sure that they are per- 
fectly tight. To fill the jars have ready by the pre- 



PKESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. 155 

serving-kettle a pan in which to place the jars while 
they are being filled, a ladle for the fruit, plenty of 
towels for handling the jars, a silver spoon to run 
down the side of each jar as it is filled, so that all the 
air can escaj^e, and a pan of hot water for heating the 
jars, so that the hot fruit may not cause them to crack. 
Small jars are best, because the contents can be used 
directly the jars are opened, thus lessening the chance 
of spoiling. 

The jars with j^orcelain or cork lined covers are 
preferable, because no metal comes in contact with 
the contents. The danger in this event is not that the 
metal is likely to be received into the system to any 
injurious extent, but that certain fruit or vegetable 
acids form poisonous combinations with some metals 
when both are exposed to the air, or their contact is 
continued. This fact should be remembered Avhen a 
metal preserving-kettle is used; it should be thorough- 
ly scoured and washed just before using, and no pre- 
serve or fruit should be allowed to remain in it unless 
during cooking. A porcelain-lined kettle will admit 
of letting the fruit stand in it with sugar overnight, 
and the preserve may be allowed to cool in it. 

The keeping of all preserves and jellies depends on 
the proportion of sugar used or on their thorough 
cooking; for instance, jellies must be boiled contin- 
ously, loitJioiit an instcmfs cessation. The boiling 
may be gentle enough to prevent burning, but if it 
ceases even momentarily, the jelly may not thicken. 
Another possible cause for the failure which some- 
times occurs in making jelly may be the overripeness 
of currants; they should be ripe and sound, not over- 
ripe and watery. If they are picked in the early morn- 
ing or in the evening of a fair day, when they are cool. 



156 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

they will keep longer while fresh, and be less likely 
to spoil after they are preserved. The clearness of 
jelly depends ujion the absolute separation of the juice 
from the pulp of fruit by straining; if the flannel jel- 
ly bag is dipped in hot water, and then wrung as dry 
as possible, less fruit juice will be wasted in straining 
than if the bag has first to become saturated Avith juice 
before it can begin to run through. Some notable 
housekeepers claim that jelly will be clearer if the 
sugar used in making it is heated; this is done by 
spreading the sugar on pans, and keeping it in a mod- 
erate oven, stirring it occasionally, while the strained 
fruit juice is being boiled steadily for twenty minutes. 
The sugar is then stirred into the juice until it is 
dissolved, and the jelly kept on the fire until it boils 
again. Then the kettle is removed to the table, and 
the jelly put into glasses dii3ped in hot water to pre- 
vent breaking when the hot jelly is put into them; a 
silver spoon put into the glass before filling it with 
jelly serves to conduct the superfluous heat, and thus 
prevents breaking. 

All fruit should be ripe and sound for preserving, 
not overripe and on the verge of decay. Perhaps one 
cause of spoiling in canned fruit and vegetables is the 
custom of sending them to the second-class canning 
factories when there is a glut in the market, just as 
poultry upon the point of tainting is turned over to 
the canners to be washed with soda or otherwise 
chemically restored before it is put up in cans. After 
fruit is put up it should be watched; at the first sign 
of fermentation it should be scalded. Either the jars 
may be set in a kettle partly full of warm water, after 
their tops are loosened, and their contents then heated 
to the scalding-point, or the preserves may be turned out 



PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. 15*7 

into a kettle aud so scalded; this is the least trouble- 
some way, and is not attended with any chance of 
breaking the jars. The jars are to be thoroughly 
scalded, and the preserves then returned to them and 
put up as at first. The appearance of a thick film of 
mould on the surface of preserves is not an indication 
that they are spoiling; it is the irregular spots of 
mould, or the bubbles caused by fermentation, which 
show that the fruit is in danger. Some housekeepers 
prevent the formation of mould on the surface of pre- 
serves by putting on, as soon as they are cold, a half- 
inch layer of fine dry sugar. The simplest prevent- 
ive of mould is a circle of white paper dipped in 
brandy, and an air-tight covering of paper brushed with 
the white of egg. The fruits containing many small 
seeds are most apt to ferment; they need thorough 
cooking, as do tomatoes for the same reason. The 
seeds are coated with a silicious substance which seems 
almost to defy the preservative action of heat; in 
other words, the destruction by heat of the germ of 
vitality contained in the seeds. 

Some of the larger stone fruit, such as plums, can 
be kept by simply pouring boiling water over them in 
the jars, and sealing them at once air-tight. Currant 
jelly is made without boiling by mixing equal parts of 
granulated sugar and currant juice until the sugar is 
dissolved; the jelly is then poured into glasses which 
are covered with muslin, and exposed to the direct 
rays of the sun for several successive days until a jelly 
forms. Still another method is to crush the currants 
and strain the juice absolutely clear; mix with it double 
its weight of white sugar, stirring until the sugar is 
entirely dissolved; then let the juice remain in a very 
cold place for twenty-four hours, stirring it thoroughly 



158 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

three or four times ; after that put it up in glass, cov- 
ered with brandied paper, and seal it air-tight. But 
the safest way is to cook all fruit except pineapples; 
for these a sj^ecial recipe will be given. 

To make any kind of fruit jelly, heat the fruit long 
enough to start the juice, then crush it, and put it into 
a jelly bag suspended over a bowl, and let the juice 
run through without squeezing, leaving it overnight if 
possible; the next morning measure the juice; to each 
pint allow a pound of white sugar; either put both 
together in the preserving-kettle over the fire and boil 
them steadily, without a moment's cessation, until a 
little cooled upon a saucer jellies, which will be in 
about twenty minutes. Or, first boil the juice fifteen 
minutes, and then put in the sugar, and continue the 
boiling until the jelly forms ; remove the kettle from 
the fire, and cool the jelly a little; then put it in glass- 
es; when the jelly is cold, lay a round of white paper 
dipped in brandy in each glass, and over the top paste 
another round of paper wet on both sides with white 
of egg. 

Fruit butter may be made by boiling the pulp from 
which the juice has been drained for jelly with about 
an equal quantity of sugar until it is thick and smooth, 
frequent stirring being necessary to prevent burning. 
When fruit is from the outset intended for butter it is 
simply crushed, the seeds or stones being removed from 
large fruit, and then boiled with an equal weight of 
sugar; fruit butter keeps w^ell, and is very wholesome. 
The fruit pulp remaining from jellies may be boiled 
with sugar until it begins to look clear, and then spiced 
to taste with ground cinnamon, cloves, allspice, gin- 
ger, or wdth a combination of spices; fruit butter keeps 
well either in jars or buckets with ordinary covers. 



PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. 159 

Fruit jams are made by crushing fruit and boiling 
it with an equal weight of sugar until it is thick and 
smooth and looks clear, all scum being removed. Jams 
are put up like jellies. When very juicy fruits are so 
prepared, part of the juice is allowed to boil away be- 
fore adding the sugar. 

Fruit marmalades are made by being stewed, with 
water enough to prevent burning, until they are ten- 
der enough to rub through a sieve for the purpose of 
removing the seeds; the pulp thus obtained is then 
boiled gently with an equal weight of sugar until a 
little of it, cooled upon a saucer, thickens like jelly, 
and is slightly elastic, clinging to the spoon when cut; 
it is then ready to j)ut up like jelly. 

Most housekeepers have their favorite methods of 
putting up preserves. The following have always 
been successfully used in the New York School of 
Cookery, the second being the least troublesome. 
Choose firm, ri2)e, sound fruit; do not wash berries 
unless they are very sandy; remove the stones from 
peaches or plums, if desirable, and peel them at will; 
pare and core quinces and pears. Weigh the fruit 
after it is prepared, and allow an equal quantity of 
sugar; put the fruit and sugar in layers in a porcelain 
lined kettle, with sugar at the bottom and top, and let 
them stand overnight. The next morning set the ket- 
tle over the fire and gently boil its contents until the 
fruit is soft, hut not broken^ removing all scum; trans- 
fer the fruit to heated glass jars without breaking it, 
boil the syrup until it begins to thicken, then pour it 
over the preserves, and close the jars; when they are 
cold, make sure that they are air-tight, and keep them 
in a cool, dark place. The other way of preserving 
is to weigh the fruit, and allow a scant quantity of 



IQQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sugar to balance the waste of paring, etc.; put the 
sugar over the fire in the preserving kettle, with half 
a cupful of cold water to each pound, and boil it, re- 
moving all scum. Meantime prepare the fruit ; when 
both are ready, boil the fruit in the syrup until it be- 
gins to look clear, but do not let it hreah; transfer the 
fruit to glass jars heated in water, and then boil the 
syrup until thick, and put up the preserves as usual. 

During the progressive publication of this work in 
IIarper''s Bazar there were received several requests 
for special recipes for preserving peaches. The sim- 
plest way is canning; the peaches are to be stoned, 
pared at v\dll, and canned according to the directions 
already given in detail. For preserving in any way 
except in jam, marmalade, and peach - butter, firm 
peaches should be chosen, perfectly sound, and not 
overripe. The decayed spots in unripe fruit are some- 
times due to its poor stock, and sometimes to exposure 
while rijDening, or to sudden and severe electrical dis- 
turbances, Av^hich disorganize the substance of even 
fine fruit; whatever their cause, they should always 
be carefully removed, and the fruit stewed before it 
is eaten, to destroy any possibly injurious germs. If 
mothers could only control the use of such fruit by 
their children, there would be much less pain and 
sickness than now befalls the unconscious arbiters of 
their own destiny. In selecting fruit for preserving, 
reference should be had to the remarks concerning the 
care with which such choice should be made. Peaches 
of rather firm flesh are always best for preserving. To 
make the ordinary sweet preserves, peel them, remove 
the stones, and put the halves into the porcelain-lined 
preserving-kettle in layers, with an equal amount of 
sugar; the next morning set the kettle over the fire, 



PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. jg^ 

and boil and skim its contents until the syrup is clear 
and the fruit begins to look transparent, but do not 
allow it to break; then put up the preserves as already 
directed. A second method is to weigh the fruit, and 
allow about two thirds its weight in sugar; put the 
sugar over the fire in the preserving-kettle with a gill 
of cold water, and boil it, removing all scum that 
rises; meantime prepare the peaches, and when the 
syrup is clear, put in as many as will float, and boil 
them until they are slightly transparent, but not bro- 
ken; then skim them out and lay them on sieves or 
dishes, or in jars ; when all are done, boil the syrup 
until it is thick, and pour it over them in the jars. 
Put them up like other preserves. Refer to the recipe 
for brandy peaches for methods of peeling peaches. 

Peach jam is made from inferior fruit, from which 
all decayed parts are carefully removed. Unscrupu- 
lous manufacturers use fruit as it comes to them from 
orchard or market, without selection, trusting to the 
process of cooking to destroy all noxious germs and 
unfavorable conditions ; but the appearance and fla- 
vor of their products is inferior to those made from 
sound fruit. Allow one third the weight of the peach- 
es in sugar, and put them over the fire together; boil 
them gently and steadily until they are sufliciently 
thick, stirring them frequently — the time may be near- 
ly two hours; remove all scum that rises, and continue 
the steady, gentle boiling without cessation, and when 
the jam is nearly done it must be stirred constantly 
to prevent burning. Put it up like other preserves. 
Marmalade is made in the same way, except that the 
boiling is continued until the marmalade is a little 
elastic, clinging to the spoon with which it is tested. 
Both jams and marmalades keep best of any pre- 
11 



152 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

serves. They may be made from the fruit pulp wMch 
has been strained for jelly. Peach -butter can be 
made from imperfect fruit, the decayed j^ortions and 
stones being removed, and the fruit then weighed. To 
twelve pounds allow four of sugar and a pint of vine- 
gar; boil the butter in the preserving-kettle over a 
steady fire until it is as thick as jam, stirring it fre- 
quently — and as it approaches completion, almost con- 
stantly — to prevent burning. When it is done, put it 
up like other preserves. It keeps well, and is a most 
wholesome sweetmeat. 

Fried peaches may be a novelty to some readers. 
Firm, rather tart, ones should be chosen, the skins 
brushed, the halves evenly separated, the stones re- 
moved, and the peaches laid skin down in a large pan, 
with butter enough to prevent burning, a little salt 
and pepper, and fried just tender. They are to be 
served with any meat or poultry which requires a sub- 
acid sauce. 

During the early summer pineapples are abundant 
and quite cheap, for as early as May fine strawberry 
pines are sold as low as twenty-five cents in the Broad- 
way fruit stores, large sugar-loaf pines for seventy-five 
cents, and Porto Ricos weighing twelve pounds for 
$1.25. The July market of 1886 reached a lower fig- 
ure than ever before, owing to the increased importa- 
tion. Two methods of preserving pineapples without 
cooking have long been in use m the South, both of 
which retain the delicate flavor of the fruit better than 
the regulation way of preserving it, the first being per- 
sonally preferred. Pare sound ripe pineapples with a 
sharp knife, remove the eyes (so-called) with a silver 
fruit-knife, cut the fruit about half an inch thick, and 
weigh it; weigh a fourth more granulated sugar than 



PEESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. ^^3 

fruit; use glass jars large enougli at the top to admit 
the slices of j^ineapple; in the bottom put an inch of 
sugar, and then alternate thick layers of sugar and 
slices of fruit until the jar is filled, having plenty of 
sugar on top, literally running over the jars. Seal the 
jars perfectly air-tight ; the success of the operation 
depends upon this. The second method is to peel and 
slice the fruit thin, and lay it overnight in a tureen 
with an equal weight of sugar; in the morning drain 
off the syrup and boil it steadily, removing all scum, 
for half an hour; pour the boiling syrup over the fruit, 
and allow both to cool, then transfer the fruit and 
syrup to glass jars and seal them air-tight; this is a 
favorite Carolina preserve. For both these prepara- 
tions the finest fruit is required; inferior or unripe 
pineapple should be boiled tender in syrup, and put 
up like other preserves. AYhole preserved pineapples 
were the pride of old-time Southern housekeepers; the 
fruit was carefully washed, the lower leaves and most 
of the crown trimmed away, and the pineapple boiled, 
in sufiacient hot water to cover it, until tender enough 
to pierce with a broom straw; after the pine was 
cooled it was smoothly peeled, and then weighed; an 
equal weight of sugar was put into a deep kettle just 
large enough to contain the pine, with a gill of water 
to each pound, and boiled and skimmed until it became 
a clear syrup; in this the pine w^as boiled for twenty 
minutes, and then cooled and put with the syrup into 
a glass jar, which was sealed air-tight. 

The ordinary way of j^reserving pineapples is to 
peel them carefully, remove the eyes and defective 
parts, slice them, and lay them overnight in an equal 
weight of sugar, all the trimmings except the decayed 
portions being saved and enclosed in a thin muslin bag 



1Q4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

to boil with the fruit; the next morning drain off the 
syrup and boil it with the trimmings, skimming it un- 
til clear, then put the fruit into it and boil it tender; 
cool both fruit and syrup, and put them up in air- 
tight jars. Marmalade is made by peeling and grating 
the fruit, and then boiling it, with an equal weight of 
sugar, for an hour or longer, until it assumes a smooth, 
elastic consistency, removing all scum that rises. It is 
put up like other marmalades. 

The brandying of fruit is a favorite method of 
preservation ; cherries, plums, grapes, apricots, and 
peaches brandy well whole, the stems are removed at 
discretion, but only the peaches are peeled, the skins 
of the other fruit being pierced in "several places with 
a needle to prevent bursting. Only the j^eaches need 
to be cooked; the small fruit is frequently j^ut into 
jars with half or three fourths of its Aveight in pounded 
loaf sugar or rock candy, the jars filled with the best 
brandy, and corked air-tight; the fruit is sometimes 
allowed to remain in the brandy for five or six weeks 
before adding the sugar ; this is Gouffe's method. 
Grapes are sometimes brandied in clusters. Morclla 
cherries are the best for brandying, and their flavor is 
improved by the addition of five or six blanched bitter 
almonds to each jar or bottle. A little whole spice is 
sometimes added to brandied fruit. Large plums, 
apricots, and small pears may be boiled for five min- 
utes in syrup before they are brandied; in that case 
the sugar is used to make the syrup, and subsequent- 
ly mixed with the brandy as directed in the recipe for 
brandy peaches. Either peel sound Morris White 
peaches very smoothly with a silver knife, or scald 
them until the skins wrinkle or burst, in a gallon of 
hot water in which a teaspoonful of washing-soda has 



PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. 1(35 

been dissolved; in a few moments the skin can be 
rubbed off with a wet towel; the water must be scald- 
ing hot, but not boiling. As fast as the peaches are 
peeled, drop them into a large jar of cold water; 
weigh the peaches after they are peeled. While the 
peaches are being peeled boil a pound of sugar with 
two quarts of water, removing all scum; when this 
syrup is clear, boil the peaches in it until they begin 
to grow tender enough to yield to the least pressure, 
putting in only as many as will float, and being care- 
ful to take them up without breaking them; when the 
peaches are cooked, either lay them on a sieve or put 
them in jars without crushing them; in this case, be- 
fore adding the brandy and syrup, drain them care- 
fully. In another kettle put as many pounds of white 
sugar as there are peaches, with half a pint of cold 
water to each pound, and boil and skim this syrup 
until it is quite clear and thick; then add an equal 
measure of the best French brandy, and let the syruj) 
cool. When the brandied syrup and peaches are both 
cool, put them together in glass jars a,nd seal them 
air-tight. 

Among the most delicious and useful preparations 
from fruit are the various syrups and cordials which 
were the pride of old-fashioned housekeepers, and which 
can be made without unwarrantable expense when fruit 
is cheap. Like preserves, the cordials seem best which 
have been thoroughly boiled and duly sweetened, lu- 
cent syrups that " dart their arrowy odor through the 
brain," and flood the slow veins with the warmth they 
garnered from m.idsummer suns. For summer use the 
cordial made from ripe blackberries and spices is pref- 
erable. Break the berries with a wooden spoon in 
an earthen bowl, and strain their juice through a cloth ; 



1QQ FAMILY LIVING ON 5500 A YEAR. 

to each quart of juice add a pound of sugar, and a 
quarter of an ounce each of whole cloves, allspice, cin- 
namon, and pounded nutmeg ; boil all these together 
for two hours over a gentle fire, and then strain the 
cordial ; when it is cold, add to it half a pint of the 
best brandy, and bottle it. This cordial is a specific 
for summer complaints, and a few spoonfuls in cool 
water make an acceptable and healthy beverage for 
use in warm weather. 

To make raspberry liqueur, bruise a quart of ripe 
raspberries, pour over them two quarts of proof spirits, 
close them from the air, and let them stand Uvo weeks. 
Then make a medium thick syruj) by boiling together 
half a pound of sugar with a gill of cold water, remov- 
ing all scum ; when the syrup is cool, mix it with the 
crushed berries and spirits, and pour them into a jelly 
bag wrung out of hot water ; when the liqueur has 
run through the bag, bottle it, cork it tightly, and keep 
it in a cool place for two weeks. At the end of that 
time pour it carefully from the bottles without dis- 
turbing the sediment in the bottom, and again filter it 
through the wet jelly bag. After it is filtered, it can 
be bottled for use. Mixed with ice-water it makes a 
delicious beverage. 

Currant shrub is made by bruising ripe currants, 
heating them until the juice runs freely, and then strain- 
ing the juice through a jelly bag wrung out of hot 
water ; to each pint of the juice add six ounces of 
sugar, stirring until the sugar is dissolved ; when the 
syrup thus made is quite cold, add to each pint of it a 
quart of Jamaica rum, and strain and bottle it for use. 
A small quantity in ice-water makes a refreshing and 
wholesome summer drink. 

" The British Jewel," a curious cookery-book of the 



PRESERVES, CANNED FRUIT, ETC. ^gy 

early eigliteentli century, gives the following excel- 
lent recipe for lemon shrub : " Take two quarts of 
brandy and put it in a large bottle ; put into it the 
juice of five lemons, the peelings of two, and half a 
nutmeg ; stop it up, and let it stand three days ; then 
add to it three pints of white wine, a pound and a half 
of sugar, and mix and strain it twice through a flannel, 
and bottle it up. It is a pretty wine and a cordial," 
as witness can well be borne, but it calls for discretion 
in use. 

Pineapple shrub is prepared by peeling a large ripe 
pineapple and grating it, being careful to save all the 
juice ; put it into an earthen jug with a gallon of cold 
water and a pound of sugar, and shake the jug for five 
minutes; let it stand in a temperature of about 90° 
Fahr. for two or three days, until it begins to ferment; 
then cool it with ice, and use it as a beverage. 



IQQ FAMILY LIVING ON f500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XV. 

GEAPES, ORANGES, AXD OTHER TABLE FRUIT. 

Fresh fruit for table use is always obtainable in 
the cities of the United States, varying according 
to the season, from the products of the tropics to 
the local harvest. Of the tropical fruits oranges and 
bananas are the most abundant. There are some spe- 
cial uses of bananas which may be novel to some of 
our readers, and assuredly are excellent. In the Indies 
and the South this fruit enters largely into routine 
cookery, frying being a favorite method of serving it. 
On very warm days iced bananas with Madeira poured 
over them, eaten with some light cold bread, form 
quite a satisfactory repast. New Orleans baked ba- 
nanas are peeled, cut lengthwise, dusted with fine sug- 
ar, dotted with butter, baked for a half-hour, and served 
in the dish in which they are cooked. New Orleans 
fried bananas are peeled, cut lengthwise, steeped for a 
half-hour in orange juice and sugar, and then rolled in 
flour, and fried in hot salad oil; they are dusted with 
sugar before serving. They are very good peeled, 
sliced, covered with orange juice and sugar, or with 
whipped cream, and made very cold before they are 
served. Note that the substance of this fruit is so 
dense that it is apt to be indigestible if eaten uncooked 
without a light bread or cake. A banana cake is made 
with alternate layers of the sliced fruit and some light 
cake, with either fine sugar or sweetened whipped 
cream on the layers. 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. IQQ 

Banana pie is made with two crusts of delicate pas- 
try, the fruit being peeled and sliced, thickly sprinkled 
with fine sugar ; to each pie allow half an even tea- 
spoonful of any powdered spice preferred, and a table- 
spoonful each of butter and apple or cider jelly. 

Some favorite New Orleans ways of using pineap- 
ple may be added to the recipes already given for that 
delicious fruit. Pineapple cake is made of layers of 
grated pineapple, profusely sugared, and white cake. 
Pineapple cream pie is made with a bottom crust and 
a covering of meringue ; the quantities for a large pie 
are the yolks of three eggs, a cupful of cream, or a 
cupful of milk with two tablespoonfuls of melted but- 
ter, a cupful of sugar, and a small pineapple peeled and 
grated ; the three whites are beaten stiff, and enough 
finely powdered sugar is mixed vrith them to make a 
firm meringue, which is usually put over the pie after 
the crust is done, and then slightly browned. 

As both bananas and pineapples make delicious 
creams and ices, it may be well to give directions here 
for preparing those most refreshing of summer SAveets. 
There is nothing more acceptable in sultry summer 
weather than a fruit ice; the variety is almost infinite, 
the materials not costly, and the preparation is simple. 
In many kitchens there is some form of patent freezer, 
for these utensils are not expensive; but in their ab- 
sence a substitute may be made from a covered tin 
can or pail set within a wooden tub or bucket at least 
twice its diameter, the space between to be packed 
Avith a freezincy mixture to within two or three inches 
of the top of the inner can. Care must be taken to 
prevent the mixture getting into the can when the ice 
or cream which is freezing is being stirred; the stirring 
is mechanical with the patent freezers, and constant, 



170 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

thus securing the smooth, thorough freezing of their 
contents. To stir an ice in a pail, remove the cover 
carefully enough to prevent the admission of the salt 
of the freezing mixture, use a broad-bladed knife or 
spatula to scrape the frozen ice from the sides of the 
can, and mix it smoothly and thoroughly with the un- 
frozen part; then replace the cover, and turn the can 
with a quick circular motion which will whirl the con- 
tents about. Stir the ice three or four times in the 
course of a half -hour; the patent freezers accomplish 
their work in about that time, the ordinary cans take 
longer. After the ice is frozen it may be packed down 
in the can, the cover replaced, the freezing mixture re- 
newed, and a folded blanket or carpet laid over the 
can; it will keep well for half a day or more. The 
freezing mixture is one fourth of coarse salt to three 
of finely broken ice; it is not necessary to draw off 
the water as the ice melts, unless there is danger of 
its penetrating the can. Fruit or fruit juices may be 
frozen with the simple addition of sugar and water, 
or when they are half solid the beaten Avhites of two 
or three eggs may be stirred in, and the freezing com- 
pleted; the egg gives a white, foaming appearance to 
an ice, but makes it less immediately refreshing, while 
it increases the food value. The crushed 'pulp of such 
fruit as strawberries, raspberries, peaches, and pine- 
apple, mixed with an equal quantity of cold water and 
overs weetened, makes delicious ices; the pulp of wa- 
teraielons freed from seed, palatably sweetened and 
frozen, is refreshing; the beaten whites of four eggs 
may be added to a large melon when it is half frozen. 
The juice of oranges, lemons, and limes, with a little 
water and plenty of sugar, makes the most wholesome 
and acceptable ices during seasons of excessive heat. 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. ;[Yl 

Lemon, orange, and pineapple ice, flavored with Ja- 
maica rum, and served witli a teaspoonful of rum in 
each glass, makes Roman punch. Fresh peaches, apri- 
cots, and hananas, mixed with sweetened cream and 
frozen, make excellent summer desserts. 

Oranges enter largely into ices and mixed fruit des- 
serts. While oranges are in season they should be 
plentifully used, both fresh and cooked. 

The late winter and early spring months bring to 
the Northern market an abundant supply of oranges 
of delicious flavor, so cheap that they demand atten- 
tion from the thrifty housewife. The increase of or- 
ange-orchards in Florida insures the permanency of 
this suppl}^, and promises to diminish the cost until 
oranges become as marketable an American fruit as 
apples are. Not only have we an abundance of the 
large orange, the subacid flavor of which is most re- 
freshing and vvholesome, but yearly the supply of 
Mandarins and Tangerines, the native fruit of China 
and Africa, now cultivated abundantly in Florida, is 
more inexpensive. Florida oranges now compete fa- 
vorably with the Valencia and Seville fruit, and have 
largely taken the place of the sweet and rather dry 
Havana variety, which was considered the best ten or 
fifteen years ago. The California fruit is large and 
handsome, but, like some of the other vegetable pro- 
ductions of the land of sunshine, it is rather juiceless 
and insipid. However, the California citrus fair of 
1886 gave promise of decided improvement in both 
oranges and lemons, and some of the seedless or navel 
oranges, which were marketed in the East during the 
spring of the same year, were delicious fruit, large and 
well-flavored, and as full of luscious juice as the most 
thirsty mouth could wish them to be. The Seville 



l^J2 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAE. 

bitter orange somewhat resembles grape fruit in flavor, 
althongli smaller and less fine; the skin, which is of 
a deep orange color, is deeply pitted and very thick 
and bitter; the aromatic oil of the skin is also bit- 
ter; the pnlp separates easily from the inner white 
membranes and seeds, and is refreshing in sultry 
weather. 

In addition to the regulation way of peeling and 
quartering oranges, they may be cut, for eating in 
smaller pieces, through the skin, so that the pulp re- 
mains attached to it, and the pieces can be lifted to 
the mouth by it. The knife must be sharp enough to 
divide the fruit in sections without squeezing it and 
depriving it of its refreshing juice. There is no more 
delicious breakfast fruit than a ripe, juicy orange. A 
good way to eat oranges at breakfast is to cut them in 
halves across the sections with a sharp knife, and then 
take out the pulp and juice with a teaspoon. A fruit 
napkin facilitates the operation, for the orange can be 
held with it in the hollow of the left hand. Another 
way is to soften the fruit by pressure, and then cut 
out from the top a circle of the skin, letting the knife 
divide the membranes of the quarters, so that the juice 
can easily be taken out with a teaspoon. The Cali- 
fornia oranges and the Mandarins and Tangerines are 
so readily separated from the skin that they can be 
opened with ease, but the more juicy Floridas require 
careful handling. 

There is no more delicious fruit for preserving, 
either as jellj^, or marmalade, or entire in a rich syruj). 
Although the imported Dundee marmalade is now 
sold in New York for twenty-five cents a small jar, the 
fruit can be put up at home at a less cost and with 
little pains. The regulation Dundee recipe is given, 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. 2-^3 

together with an American one, either being good. In 
slicing the oranges use a very sharp knife, holding the 
fruit over a platter to save all the juice; and first wash 
the oranges in cold water, and wipe them on a clean 
cloth. 

For Dundee marmalade, slice a dozen large oranges 
very thin, removing the seeds; if a bitter orange is 
available, use it in addition. Use also the juice of two 
lemons, and enough cold water to make seven pints. 
Let the fruit thus prepared stand overnight in an 
earthen bowl, protected from the flies. The next 
morning put it over the fire in a preserving-kettle, heat 
it, and boil it gently until the orange rind is tender; 
then -stir with it seven pounds of granulated or loaf 
sugar, and continue to boil it gently, stirring it occa- 
sionally, until the rind looks clear, and a little of the 
marmalade, cooled upon a saucer, has a jelly-like con- 
sistency. After that point is reached, take the pre- 
serving-kettle off the fire, partly cool the marmalade 
in the kettle, and then transfer it to glass or earthen 
jars or jelly glasses. In the top of each one fit a round 
of paper dipped in brandy, and either close the jars 
or seal the glasses with paper brushed with the white 
of egg, in order to exclude the air. If the marmalade 
is well cooked and properly put up, it will keep in- 
definitely in a cool, dark place. If put up when 
oranges are plentiful, it is one of the least expensive 
of preserves, and is wholesome and nutritious, espe- 
cially for invalids and children. 

It may be said in passing that preserves can often 
be used for the food of children with advantage; they 
give variety Avlien it is not desirable to use meat, and 
supply food elements favorable to health. A healthy 
child requires a certain proportion of sweet food. The 



1*74 FAAllLY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

craving for it is natural, and should be judiciously in- 
dulged. Sugar in its simplest form, or as pure can- 
dy or sweetmeats, should make part of the children's 
habitual fare; it is injurious only when it is not used 
with discretion; that is, in excess, or between the regu- 
lar meals. With this fact in mind, some good recipes 
for making pure and wholesome candies will be given 
later. 

Florida marmalade is made by slicing a dozen or- 
anges, removing the seeds. Weigh the sliced oranges, 
and pour cold water over them in the proportion of 
two pints and a half of water to a pound of orange; 
to a dozen oranges add the juice of one lemon; let the 
fruit stand overnight. The next day boil it until the 
rind looks clear; then cool it and weigh it. After it 
is cold, put it again over the fire, with an equal weight 
of sugar, and boil the marmalade until it jellies. Then 
cool it, and put it up as directed in the preceding rec- 
ipe. Either of these recipes will produce about four 
quarts of marmalade. 

The recipe of Mrs. Harriet Prescott Spofford for 
marmalade is one of the best extant, and it is with 
pleasure that it is presented to our readers: 

Peel the oranges very thin. Soak the peel twenty- 
four hours, more or less, in salted water. The next 
day boil the peel three hours in fresh water, changing 
the water once. Cut the boiled peel in small narrow 
strips, and these in small bits, the finer the better. 
Throw away all the white skin you can take off the 
oranges. Cut them in small pieces, taking out the 
seeds. Weigh the pulp, juice, and peel, and to every 
pound allow a pound of granulated white sugar. Boil 
twenty minutes, and bottle in jars. This should be 
made in February or March, as oranges become taste- 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. j ^^ 

less later in the season. Four dozen oranges make six 
quart jars. 

Combined with apples, our other most plentiful winter 
fruit, oranges make a good and cheap jelly, at a season 
when most preserves are unavailable. The jelly may 
be made in connection with the candied orange peel 
for which the recipe is given. This can easily be j3re- 
pared at home, to replace the store preserve, or to take 
the place of citron in cakes and puddings. Use an 
equal number of apples and oranges. Wash the ap- 
ples, slice and core them, put them over the fire in the 
preserving -kettle with enough cold water to cover 
them, and simmer them until they are reduced to a 
pulp. Pour the apple pulp into a jelly bag, and let 
the juice drain from it, but do not squeeze the bag; 
after the juice has ceased to drip, take the pulp from 
the jelly bag, and sweeten and spice it a little to use 
as apple sauce. Measure the apple juice. To each 
pint of apple juice add one of boiled orange juice and 
a pound of sugar, and boil them together, removing 
all scum that rises, until a little, cooled upon a saucer, 
forms a jelly. Then take the preserving -kettle oiff 
the fire, partly cool the jelly, and pour it into glasses; 
when it is cold, seal it up like other preserves. 

To make candied orange peel cut the fruit in even 
slices about a quarter of an inch thick, so as to make 
the rinds uniform in size, and scrape the pulp av/ay 
with a spoon; save it to boil with enough cold water to 
cover it, as directed for cooking the apples, and then 
drain it, as the apples are drained, in a jelly bag, and 
mix it with the apple pulp; the juice is to be mixed 
with the apple juice, and made into jelly, as directed 
above. Put the pieces of orange peel in enough cold 
water to cover them, with a level tablespoonful of salt 



1Y6 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

to a quart of water, and let them stand overnight. 
The next day drain them, put them over the fire in 
fresh water, and boil them for about half an hour, or 
until the rind is tender, but not at all broken; then drain 
the orange rind upon a sieve. Meantime make a 
syrup, allowing a pint of water and a pound of sugar 
for a dozen oranges; boil the sugar and water together, 
skimming it clear, until it begins to thicken. When 
the orange peel is dry, dip it in brandy and lay it again 
upon the sieve. When the syrup is ready, keep it 
scalding hot until the orange peel has been dipped in 
it and dried three times, always being laid upon the 
sieve to drain. Twice a day heat the syrup and dip 
the orange peel in it, draining it on the sieve and dip- 
ping it three times; do this for several days, until the 
peel looks like that sold in the shops. Finally, dry the 
orange peel thoroughly, and pack it in boxes, with white 
paper between the layers; keep it in a cool, dry place. 

The process may sound troublesome, but it is not so 
when followed in connection with other kitchen work, 
and when the good results are considered. 

Some excellent recipes have been given for udng 
oranges, which may be acceptably supplemented by 
suggestions concerning orange cakes and puddings. 
For the latter the combination of orange juice and 
grated peel, or of the grated peel, pulp, and juice with 
corn-starch j^wdding, or with bread or rice pudding, 
affords variety; or orange juice may be heated with 
sweetened milk, thickened with a tablespoonf ul of corn- 
starch and the yolks of raw eggs, four being added to 
a quart of boiling milk and juice after they are taken 
from the fire; two minutes' constant stirring will mix 
the yolks smoothly, and then the cream thus made is 
to be cooled in little cups. 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTUER TABLE FRUIT. ^^^7 

Orange cake is a good combination with snow cake, 
angels' food, or meringues, for which are used the 
whites of eggs only. To the yolks of six eggs, beaten 
to a cream with half a pound of powdered sugar and 
two ounces of butter, add the grated rind and pulp of 
three oranges freed from seeds, and about half a pound 
of j^repared flour, or enough to make a batter as thick 
as that for pound-cake; a heaping teaspoonful of bak- 
ing-powder may be sifted with half a pound of flour 
in the absence of prepared flour. The lightness of the 
cake depends upon baking it directly the flour is add- 
ed, in a pan lined with buttered paper; the heat of the 
oven should be moderate, and the cake baked until a 
broom straw run into the thickest part can be with- 
drawn dry. 

Sweetened orange pulp freed from seeds can be used 
with layers of good plain cake as jelly is used; or the 
cream of orange juice, eggs, sugar, milk, and corn- 
starch can be put between layers of cold cake. Orange 
pulp, juice, and grated rind mixed with sugar and 
water can be frozen as orange ice. 

Some of our readers may like to try a new orange 
cream: put over the Are a quart of good milk, add a 
little cream if it is available, oversweeten it, add to it 
the grated rind and juice of four oranges, and let it 
boil; then take it off the stove, stir it a minute, stir in 
the yolks of four eggs beaten smooth, and strain it ; 
when it is cool, freeze it like other creams. 

In many vineyards of the country the harvest is 
yearly more abundant, and we should fail in the spirit 
of our scheme of living judiciously if we did not try 
to turn all available treasures to our uses. Many 
points of fruit management remain to be treated, but 
the importance of seasonable provision against the 
13 



l^jQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

time of scanty fresh supplies, whereof keen airs warn 
ns, searching past St. Martin's sunshine, when grapes 
are most plentiful, warrants detail of recipes. The 
fruit of the day abounds in nearly every section of the 
country, from the White House trellises whose roj^es 
of yellow globes were brought from Palestine to trail 
their sweets for that regnant lady who — strange sar- 
casm of circumstance! — disdained their potable gold, 
through the mild spice of Catawba's vines, and the 
white syrup of Niagara's clusters, to the great crimson 
and purple masses of the Pacific slopes. 

Nearly everywhere the housewife may feast lier 
flock upon this luscious fare, and if she is wise she will 
lay by good store for the winter. Grapes may be 
kept fresh well into cold weather, and with a little 
trouble fine clusters can be reserved for the Christmas 
table. Only quite sound fruit well set upon the stems 
should be so kept; grapes which fall are useless, as are 
those that burst from excessive ripeness. One reason 
why some grapes fall from the stems is that their 
ripening has been accomplished in a time of rain; this 
is indicated by a brownish, semi-decayed appearance 
where the fruit is attached to the stem. If, then, 
when a cluster is lifted by the stem the graj^es drop 
off, examine them for this dark spot, and do not choose 
them for economical use at table, for many persons 
would not eat the fallen fruit, thinking it must be im- 
perfect, forgetting that they pluck each grape from 
the bunch before eating it. If, by any mistake in buy- 
ing, such grapes are on hand, they can best be utilized 
in pies, preserves, or puddings. A few will suffice for 
a pudding. Cut them open and remove the seeds, but 
do not reject the skins; put them into an earthen bak- 
ing-dish with broken bread and as much sugar as their 



GRAPES, OEANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. 1^9 

flavor demands, and bake the pudding in a moderate 
oven for about half an hour, or until the grapes are 
cooked. The pudding may be made richer by adding 
a little butter. Grapes are unfit for food only when 
the pulj) is so far changed in substance as to cause the 
skins to wrinkle or become partly sunken, or when they 
have fermented or soured. 

Overripe grapes should be eaten or cooked directly 
they are bought. For fresh preservation choose per- 
fectly sound clusters which remain upon the stems, 
having them as newly j^lucked as possible; examine 
each cluster carefully, cutting away every imperfect 
grape with a pair of small, sharp scissors; holding the 
bunches by the stems, dip each one in a large basin of 
clean water and move it gently about so as to wash off 
all dust and cobwebs, and lay the clusters separately 
upon a sieve or a dry clean towel until they become 
quite dry; then tie a strong cord to each stem. If the 
grapes are to be used within a week or two, suspend 
the bunches upon a series of rods or stout strings, or 
from hooks on the under side of shelves in a dry, cool 
room, taking care that a cloth or uniDrinted paper is 
spread beneath them to receive any which may fall; 
so treated, grapes will keep better than if laid upon 
each other in any receptacle not air-tight or very cold. 
Many soft, rich grapes crush under their own weight 
during transportation, even if carefully handled. 
When grapes are to be used within the month, it will 
suffice to lay them in wooden or paper boxes between 
cotton batting, taking care not to crush them by over- 
weight; the air will be so far excluded by the cotton 
as to preserve the freshness of the grapes. They must 
be kept in a cool, dry place. Of course, only perfect 
fruit should be packed. 



jgQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

When the fruit is to be kept for a longer time, more 
pains must be taken, and A^arious methods have been 
devised. Recently some newspaper comment has been 
excited by a new way of packing fresh fruit in a kind 
of silica or infusorial sand; this precise agent may be 
new, but the idea is old enough, the end sought being 
to shield the fruit from the air and the variation of 
temperature — in fine, to keep the fruit dry and mod- 
erately cool. Sand, infusorial or otherwise, has long 
been successfully used. In Florida, lemons, oranges, 
and sweet potatoes buried in dry sand keep from the 
harvesting of one crop to the ripening of another; 
each fruit or vegetable is so surrounded by the sand as 
to prevent the communication of any possible decay 
which might arise in an individual. 

Powdered gypsum, plaster, and slaked lime have 
been similarly employed. In Russia lime is slaked 
with water containing a little creosote, and then dried 
and powdered; the fruit is packed in boxes in layers 
of lime, with paper between, and the corners filled 
with powdered charcoal; the box is tightly closed, and 
kept in a cool place. This method can easily be ap- 
plied at home; even the powdered lime, without the 
creosote or charcoal, would serve the purpose if each 
individual fruit or bunch were wrapped in unprinted 
paper. Any kind of sawdust free from odor makes an 
excellent vehicle for packing fruit; of course, it must 
be thoroughly dry, the box or barrel containing the 
fruit closed air-tight and kept in a cool, even temper- 
ature free from dampness. The best way to dry the 
sawdust at home is to heat it thoroughly in the oven; 
no harm will be done if it is a little scorched. Indeed, 
bran roasted to a sort of charcoal has been employed 
successfully in packing the most perishable of the Cali- 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. X81 

fornia fruits for transportation to the Eastern markets; 
peaches so packed have been kept good for six weeks. 

In packing grapes in sawdust or bran, hold each 
bunch by the stem so that it does not touch the case 
or any other bunch, and dust the sawdust or bran plen- 
tifully around the fruit; let the sawdust be shaken 
down around the fruit, and fill the case to overflowing, 
so that when it is closed all air may be excluded. To 
restore the bloom to grapes or plums which have been 
packed, brush ofl^ the sawdust, put the fruit into the 
ice-box for at least an hour, and then serve it; the 
change from the temperature of the ice-box to that of 
the dining-room will generally bring back the van- 
ished bloom, proverbial wisdom to the contrary not- 
withstanding. 

Correspondents have asked for directions for evap- 
orating apples. For extensive work it would be well 
to employ some good apparatus of approved fashion; 
for small operations the heat of the sun or of the shelf 
above the stove may be depended upon, care being 
taken to shield the fruit from dust and flies; fruit 
dried in this way is apt to be dark-colored, and in 
out-door drying it is sometimes injured by dampness. 
A bushel of apples should yield about six or seven 
pounds of the dried fruit. A primitive sort of out- 
door drier can be arranged by fitting a hot-bed glass, 
or even a window-sash, on the top of a square board 
frame which slopes on one side about one fourth of its 
height ; the frame should have a solid bottom, and be 
raised from the ground at least a foot by stout legs; 
the highest side should open on hinges like a door, and 
the interior be fitted with shelves, or with cleats for 
the support of wooden trays; at the bottom of the 
door and of the front there should be several apertures 



132 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

for the free admission of air, shielded from the en- 
trance of insects by wire cioth. Fruit or vegetables 
placed within this drying-frame will dry more rapidly 
and perfectly than in the open air, and be entirely pro- 
tected from dampness unless during a long-continued 
storm. Apples for drying should be cored, and cut 
about an eighth of an inch thick, the paring being 
taken off at will. The latest process for evaporating 
fruit exposes it first to the fumes of sulphur, which 
check fermentation and whiten the fruit, and then to 
hot dry air until it is thoroughly dry. 

The evaporated apples sold at the best grocery stores 
are cored and thinly sliced by machinery, and then 
evaporated, with an advantage over the primitive 
method of drying in favor of weight, color, and flavor. 
Half a pound of evaporated apples soaked overnight 
in warm water, enough to cover them, and then stewed 
in the same water, produce more than a quart of good 
apple sauce, equal in flavor to that made from fresh 
fruit. Sugar is to be used at discretion in the sauce. 

Grapes are evaporated, and also peaches. Grapes 
may be canned by separating the pulp and skins af- 
ter taking them from the stems, and putting them 
over the fire to heat slowly; the moment they begin 
to boil strain the juice from the skins into the pulp 
without squeezing the skins, put the pulp at once into 
glass cans, as already directed in this series, and seal 
the cans air-tight; half the grapes' weight of sugar 
may be boiled with the pulp if a sweet preserve is 
desired. Some housekeej^ers first heat the pulp until 
it is soft enough to separate from the seeds, and then 
rub it through a sieve with a potato-masher; mean- 
time the skins arc being boiled with half the grapes' 
weight of sugar; after the pulp is added to the skins 



GRAPES, ORANGES, AND OTHER TABLE FRUIT. ^gS 

and sugar, the preserve is allowed to boil until it looks 
a little clear, all scum being removed, and then it is 
put up like other preserves. Grape catsup is made by- 
boiling the pulp of grapes, freed from skins and seeds, 
with vinegar and spice; to three pints of grape pulp 
are allowed half a pint each of vinegar and broAvn 
sugar, a level dessert-sj^oonful each of salt and black 
pepper, a teaspoonful each of ground mace, cinna- 
mon, and cloves, and cayenne to taste; reduce the cat- 
sup one half by boiling, remove all scum, and then 
cool and bottle it. These are but few of the uses to 
which provident housekeepers, especially those blessed 
with a vineyard, can put Leigh Hunt's "tight little 
bags of wine." 



184 



FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAK. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE SECOND SERVICE OF FOOD. 

Apart from the fact that every particle of food 
capable of being served the second time must be pre- 
sented in attractive form under our present scheme of 
economy, there are times when the appetite craves the 
lighter dishes of poultry, fish, and the lean meats, and 
they are so imj^ortant that a brief glossary of charac- 
teristics may prove useful, the application in detail 
being left open to the requirements of occasions, the sug- 
gestion being made that these dishes may take the place 
at breakfast or family dinners of steaks or chops, or 
be served with either as a substitute for a large meat 
dish. Too much attention cannot be paid to this second 
service of meats; much of the success of this scheme of 
living depends upon it, for by it alone can the residue 
of unused dishes be transferred to the credit balance. 
A succession of roasts, steaks, chops, and never a sa- 
vory rechauffe, would make failure a foregone con- 
clusion, for there is no more exj^ensive fare; and the 
most diificult people to cater for are those who like 
"a good plain table — just a broiled steak or a bit of 
roast." Much of the cook's success in these dishes de- 
pends upon a keen taste and appreciation of relative 
flavors, the general rule being to preserve individual 
flavors, and thus extend the variety of warmed-over 
dishes. While high seasoning is permissible, there is 
nothing more fatal than the injudicious combination 



THE SECOND SERVICE OF FOOD. 135 

of many seasonings constantly employed. The fat 
meats and poultry seem to call for sage above all other 
herbs, mint has an affinity for lamb and green pease, 
and beef never yields its flavor more completely than 
when stimulated with horseradish or mustard. A little 
vinegar subdues the tough fibre of meat, and, mixed 
with sugar, overcomes an excess of salt. A dish of 
sliced cucumbers with fish in any form heightens the 
flavor. Salt meats in hash or mince require the foil of 
a vegetable comj^onent. Game rewarmed has its flavor 
intensified by any acid jelly or wine. The list might 
be extended, but the limit here set permits only the 
suggestion of alimentary congruities. 

The numberless rechcmffes, or warmed-over dishes, 
which are the glory of European cooks, are composed 
in accordance with these principles; for instance, brown 
sauces are used with beef, mutton, venison, and dark 
games, and white sauces with the lighter meats and 
poultry. If acids are required, lemon juice, white- 
wine vinegar, and white wine are suitable for poultry 
and the white meats; and dark acid-fruit jellies, vine- 
gar, and strong and red wines for the dark meats and 
game. The judicious cook holds in reserve for insipid 
dishes the least touch of that alliaceous magician — old 
Homer's " wholesome garlic " — with which Arsinoiis's 
golden-haired daughter "crowned the savory treat." 
It is not every housekeeper who realizes how great is 
the economical importance of increasing the nourish- 
ment of such so-called small dishes by always serving 
with them some cheap farinaceous or vegetable food; 
stale bread as toast, baked or boiled j^otatoes or cold 
potatoes, warmed in gravy, or boiled rice, samp, or 
macaroni, make a dish of fish, chops, liver, tripe, sau- 
sages, ham, fried eggs, or omelet hearty enough to sat- 



18G FAillLY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

isfy a vigorous appetite which would not be content 
with the mere addition of bread and butter. Only 
this point must never be forgotten: the success of any 
sauce or gravy depends upon its consistency and flavor; 
a thin, watery, or greasy sauce is simply disgusting; 
but a rich, smooth, savory sauce, whether brown or 
white, more than doubles the satisfaction one feels 
with the dish it accompanies. Learn to make a good 
sauce before the day passes: mark your fortunate day 
with a white sauce instead of a white stone. 

Soups and sauces which are to be used the second 
time should be carefully examined to make sure that 
they are not sour or fermented; if they are covered, 
except with a sieve or a thin cloth, before they are en- 
tirely cold, they will almost invariably spoil. If they 
are in good condition, put them into an earthen or por- 
celain-lined vessel, set this in a pan of salted boiling 
water and heat them, occasionally stirring them to in- 
sure smoothness; if they are too thick, thin them with 
broth, milk, or boiling water, according to their orig- 
inal composition, and then see that they are well sea- 
soned. Stews are similarly warmed. 

Fish may be dressed the second time in the form 
of thick soups, scallops, rissoles, croquettes, fillets, fish 
cakes, fish hash, flaked fish, gratins, fritters, sand- 
wiches, pies, matelotes, omelets, and savory butters; 
the latter are good made of smoked and salted fish. 

Meats are served twice as mirotons, croquettes, ris- 
soles, salmis, ragoilts, fricassees, blanquettes, curries, 
devils, mince, hash, omelets, fritters, scalloj^s, patties, 
and with suitable vegetable combinations; j^/e^5 of cold 
meats are warmed entire, or sliced in their original 
sauce or gravy; cold soup meat is excellent potted, 
as also is poultry and game. The joints of rare game 



THE SECOND SERVICE OF FOOD. 187 

and cold poultry are good dipped in melted butter 
and broiled, or first very highly seasoned and then 
broiled; game and poultry make good scallops, salads, 
patties, croquettes, salmis, fritots, rissoles, civets, and 
2nirees; they combine well with olives, mushrooms, and 
oysters. 

Vegetables by no means suffer in the second service, 
for what they lose in fresh flavor they gain in savor; 
instance the kolcannon, for which a recipe is given 
elscAvhere, and the warmed-up boiled dinner of New 
England. Re warmed vegetables may appear with 
mince, chopped and moistened with gravy, or as a fried 
accompaniment of warmed-over meat. Under the va- 
rious minced cold meats and vegetables toast is usu- 
ally laid to absorb the superfluous gravy and increase 
the size of the dish. Sometimes slices of bread, cut in 
fanciful shapes, are fried in plenty of smoking-hot fat 
like doughnuts, and used to garnish these dishes ; 
enough trouble is sometimes taken to cut large pieces 
of stale bread in the form of dishes or low vases before 
frying it; these are called croHstades; the fried slices 
are cro'Citons, and the little dice of fried bread which 
appear in some soups are croutes, or crusts; all the 
trimmings of bread are to be dried, crushed with a 
roller, and sifted, the finest crumbs being saved for 
breading, and the largest for puddings and scallops. 
When stews or soups are thin, dumplings make a bet- 
ter garnish than crusts. Fried oysters are a good gar- 
nish for white-meat hash, the salad herbs for game, 
cucumbers for fish or brains in savory form, mush- 
rooms for chicken and calf 's-head, olives for game 
birds, and tomatoes for meats. 

Following is a list of some of the dishes which may 
be made from cold food: 



133 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Blcmquette, a white stew of flesh of any kind, or fish, 
warmed or cooked when fresh in white sauce; a little 
chopped parsley is a good garnish for a hlanquette. 

Boudin, a small meat roll or pudding, very highly 
seasoned, either blanched, boiled, or baked. 

Bomllahaisse, a thick soup or stew of several fish, 
containing saffron and wine. 

Brochette^ a small skewerful of pieces of poultry, 
oysters, sweetbread, chicken livers, etc., broiled and 
served on the skewer. 

Cannclon^ a small roll of minced meat highly sea- 
soned and bound w-ith raw ^^^^ either fried or baked; 
a roll of sausage meat enclosed in good pastry and 
baked, for example. 

Chartreuse, a mould of game or meat in cold meat 
jelly or aspic, enclosed in an outer layer of vegetables 
cut in cubes or cylinders. 

Civit, a delicious stew made of venison, rabbit, hare, 
or any dark game, cut in small pieces, fried with a 
little ham or bacon until brown, then covered with cold 
sauce or gravy and simmered for a half -hour; a glass 
of red w^ine to finish, and toast or crol2tO)is as a garnish. 

Coquilles, or scallops, are made of bits of game, 
poultry, or fish, oysters, livers, sweetbreads, or any del- 
icate morsel, wnth sauce and bread crumbs; these are 
placed in small shells, dusted with crumbs and dotted 
with butter, and then browned in the oven. 

Croquettes, little rolls of chopped poultry, game, 
meat, or fish, bound with raw ^gg, variously seasoned, 
breaded, and fried; the usual garnish is parsley or 
cress. 

Cutlets, slices of meat from the leg; also a thickened 
mixture of chopped poultry or shellfish, made in the 
shape of chops, and breaded and fried. 



THE SECOND SERVICE OF FOOD. 159 

Devils, pungent tidbits of cold game, poultry, or 
bones, highly seasoned with a mixture of salt, pepper, 
mustard, and oil, broiled quickly, and served very hot 
on a hot dish, with all the seasoning that the name im- 
plies. 

Filets, the tenderloins of meat, small strips of fish, 
the inner muscles of the breasts of poultry and game 
birds, may be fried, broiled, stewed, or made into pat- 
ties with sauce. 

Fricandeau, the noix or cushion from a leg of veal ; 
also a slice of veal about two inches thick ; the shoul- 
der muscles of green turtle; usually larded w^ith salt 
pork and baked, rewarmed in sauce. 

Fricassee, a white stew of poultry, veal, or fish, 
may be made from cold pieces, with a thick white 
sauce. 

Fritot, joints of cold poultry or game birds, soaked 
in French salad dressing an hour, then dipped in bat- 
ter, and fried in smoking hot fat. 

Gratins, small dishes of sauce and meat, fish, 
game, poultry, or vegetables, dusted w^ith crumbs and 
browned in the oven. 

Grenadins, small slices of meat, larded with salt 
pork and baked in sauce. 

Haricots, brown stews of dark meat and vegetables, 
or white meat, vegetables, and white sauce; the meat 
and vegetables in equal proportions. 

FromesJceys, a croquette mixture made in small rolls, 
dipped in batter, and fried; a thin slice of fat salt j^ork 
is generally wrapped around the roll before it is dipped 
in batter. 

3Iatelote, a thick stew of fish and wine. 

Miroton, dollar-shaped slices of cold meat warmed 
in brown sauce, and dished in a circle. 



190 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Patties, small cases of pastry filled with a ricli 
mince of cold meat, fish, game, or poultry; bouchees 
are very small patties. 

JPanures, breaded dishes of any kind. 

Puree, a pulp of vegetables made by rubbing them 
through a sieve with a potato - masher after they arc 
boiled soft. 

Magoilt, a brown stew of meat with wine. 

JRissole, a small turnover of fine pastry filled with 
a rich mince of any kind, and then fried like dough- 
nuts. 

Salmi. — This form of stew is usually made from 
cold game, although other ingredients are sometimes 
used. The pieces are cut of even size, put into a 
saucepan with gravy, wine, or lemon juice, a little 
chopped onion, and seasonings, and a little oil or butter, 
and stewed for ten minutes; if the meat is tough, the 
cooking is continued gently until it is tender. Sahnis 
are served on toast or with croiltoiis. Cold salmis are 
prepared as above, then taken from the sauce and 
cooled; when cold, each joint is dipped in melted 
meat jelly, and laid on a dish in some regular form; 
the garnish of the dish is cold jelly cut in varied 
shapes. Hunter's salmi is made by heating the joints 
of cold or half-roasted game in equal parts of lemon 
juice, red wine, and salad-oil, and serving them in the 
sauce. A good form of sahni is also called capillo- 
tade / it is made by frying a little chopped onion and 
mushroom in salad-oil, then adding the game, sauce, 
and wine, and serving when hot on toast with small 
pickles. 

Scallops, or coqiiilles, are little dishes of meat, fish, 
game, or 2:>oultry, in sauce, dusted with crumbs and 
browned in the oven. 



THE SECOND SERVICE OF FOOD. jGl 

Turbans are small rolls of fish filled with force-meat 
and baked in sauce. 

Vol-au-vents are large patty cases of puff paste 
filled with a rich, delicate stew, generally of chicken, 
sweetbreads, and mushrooms. 



192 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

SOUPS. 

In the range of economical cookery there is no more 
important dish than soup. This may seem surprising 
to many American housekeepers whose ideas of soups 
are confined to, perhaps, half a dozen kinds. That one 
may serve a different soup day after day, week after 
week, month after month, each one savory and not too 
expensive for ordinary use, is a revelation. We can 
only indicate the possibilities that await the investi- 
gator in this culinary direction. There is no clean 
scrap of any edible substance too insignificant for use 
in the soup kettle. The old story of the Frenchman 
who taught the Irish peasant-woman to make a soup 
from a stone is a practical ilhistration of the fact ; he 
asked for a bit of bone, a potato, and any other scrap 
of vegetable she had; a few field herbs that she thought 
weeds he had gathered, and of these with the water 
and salt she supplied he made his stone broth, first de- 
positing in the kettle a well-washed stone from the 
roadway. If all is not fish that comes to our net, all 
is fit material for soup that remains from any repast. 
Fish, flesh, fowl, vegetables, all are promising candi- 
dates for the soup kettle. 

As the smallest practical illustration is worth more 
than a page of assertion, Ave will make an immediat'e 
application of our theory of using up " scraps." Sup- 
pose there is a cupful of any vegetable puree or pulp, 



SOUPS. 193 

that is, any cold cooked vegetable rubbed tbrough a 
sieve with a potato-masher; or half a cupful of fish, 
poultry, or meat freed from skin and bone, chopped 
fine, and then rubbed through a sieve; combined with 
a pint each of milk and water, a tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, and some seasonings; this will make 
a quart of savory and nutritious soup. This quantity 
would generally serve four persons when soup is part 
only of a dinner, giving each one a deep souj^plateful 
— four or five ladlefuls where usually one or two are 
served. When soup is to make up tlie bulk of the 
meal, as it sometimes does on busy household days, 
the thick beef and vegetable soup is recommended 
that can be made at a cost of about ten cents a gallon. 

To return to the cream soups. When the puree or 
pulp is ready, put a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour in a saucepan over the fire, and stir them until 
they are smoothly blended; then gradually stir in a 
pint each of milk and water, adding about half a cup- 
ful at a time, and stirring the soup until it is quite free 
from lumps before putting in any more liquid; when 
the soup is smooth, stir the puree or pulp with it, sea- 
son it with a teaspoonf ul of salt and a quarter of a ^alt- 
spoonful each of white pepper and grated nutmeg. As 
soon as the soup boils it is ready to serve; it will take 
its name from the puree of which it is made, being 
called cream of beets (a most delicious souj)), cream 
of rice, cream of cod, etc. When all water is used, 
the milk being omitted, a good white soup is made by 
following the same method. 

All white soups and sauces should be seasoned with 

white pepper, which can now be bought at ordinary 

grocery stores at about the same price as is paid for 

black pepper; the black husk of the berry is removed 

13 



194 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

before it is ground in making white pej^per. The milk 
is most necessary in making the vegetable soups, be- 
cause to a degree it replaces the nutritious elements of 
the meat that is absent. We must largely depend 
upon these soups in alternation with fish. We cannot 
often afford meat soups, esiDCcially houillon and con- 
somme, or chicken soup, unless in that combination 
with rice which is known to epicures 2i^potage d la reine^ 
one of the most delicious upon their list and one of the 
least expensive. We can have the various white and 
cream fish and vegetable soups, made from tomato, 
cauliflower, green pease, string beans, potatoes, carrots, 
beets, dried beans and pease, clams, oysters, any fresh 
fish, crabs, lobsters, salmon, sturgeon, poultry, game; 
ham, tongue, and meat. 

The purees of meat, game, and the dark flesh of 
poultry will be mostly accej^table in combination with 
a brown soup, which is made like the white soup, ex- 
cept that the butter and flour are allowed to brown 
after they begin to bubble in the saucepan, before any 
liquid is added to them; the butter and flour must be 
constantly stirred while they are browning, and not 
allowed to burn ; when they form a smooth, light- 
brown paste, or roux, it is time to stir in the boiling 
water gradually, in the proportion of a quart of boil- 
ing water to a tablesj^oonful each of butter and flour. 
After the soup is smooth and boiling the puree of meat, 
poultry, or game, first chopped fine and then rubbed 
through a sieve, may be stirred in, together with a 
rather high seasoning of salt and pepper, and then the 
soup will be done. If there is any cold gravy or broth 
on hand which is not needed for any other purpose, it 
may be added to the soup. A variation can be made 
by serving with it a plateful of little crusts or dice of 



SOUPS. 



195 



bread fried brown in the frying kettle. As the amount 
of fat absorbed by the bread is inconsiderable, and as 
the crusts themselves are made from scraps, the ad- 
ditional cost is but slight. If the fat is smoking hot 
when the bits of bread are put into it, they will brown 
quickly, and can be entirely freed from grease by be- 
ing laid on brown paper for a moment after they are 
skimmed out of the fat. The fat must be taken off 
the fire as soon as the bread is fried, allowed to cool a 
little, and then strained through a fine wire or hair 
sieve or a thin cloth; this will free it from crumbs, 
and prepare it for future use. 

Any of these soups can be made at a cost of from 
five to ten cents for a dinner, allowing the i^roportion 
of half a pint each for four persons; that, as has al- 
ready been said, is more than is usually served. If 
the thicker soup, for which a recipe follows, is used, 
the cost of the dinner will be very much reduced, be- 
cause, with plenty of bread, it makes the bulk of a 
very hearty and nutritious meal; in fact, some persons 
consider it too hearty. It does not legitimately be- 
long in our present scheme of cookery, and is given 
only because it may serve on some very busy day satis- 
factorily to complement an otherwise scant supply of 
food. For two quarts of soup, peel and cut in small 
dice half a cupful each of carrots, turnips, and toma- 
toes, or use the canned tomatoes; also peel and chop a 
small onion; cut a quarter of a pound of soup beef in 
small bits; pick over and wash in cold water half a 
cupful of rice. Put all these ingredients over the fire 
in two quarts of cold water, with two teaspoonfuls of 
salt and half a saltspoonf ul of pepper ; cover the soup 
kettle, and cook the soup slowly for two hours, or un- 
til all the vegetables are tender; if the soup has be- 



196 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

come too thick, add a little boiling water, see that it is 
palatably seasoned, and it will then be ready to use. 

If the flavor of onions is undesirable, use instead 
about two tablespoonf uls of chopped parsley, or half a 
cupful of chopped celery, or any sweet herb preferred, 
to flavor the soup. But do not confuse the flavors. 
Remember that the same soup may be served frequent- 
ly if it is distinctly and differently flavored. The 
taste of every dish depends upon its seasoning ; so 
great is the variety of flavors which can be developed 
by the judicious use of condiments that a skilful cook 
can closely imitate the flavor and odor characteristic 
of certain foods when not a particle of them enters into 
the composition of his dish. 

By discriminating in the use of seasonings the most 
appetizing novelty can be attached to rather unprom- 
ising materials. The lighter and more delicate meats 
and j^oultry and fish, and the white soups and sauces, 
seem to call for distinct and mild flavors ; fat meats 
and poultry are most palatable with sharp and acid 
condiments and sauces, and strong spices and herbs, 
like pickles, black pepper, and sage. Such combination 
dishes as soups, ragolXts or stews, and minced - meats 
are made most palatable by several seasonings. Plain 
roasts and broiled meats are best with the simple ad- 
dition of salt and pepper, or a single acid or relish. 
The physiological action of condiments is stimulating, 
appetizing, and digestive. Without salt it would be 
impossible to keep the blood in a healthy condition, all 
the food reformers in the world to the contrary not- 
withstanding. Of the peppers, black is the sharpest 
and most aromatic, but, owing to the presence of the 
husk of the berry, it is slightly irritating to enfeebled 
digestive organs. White pei)per is milder and more 



SOUPS. lQ^J 

subtle, and has the advantage of not discoloring white 
soups and sauces. Red pei3per is more stimulating, and 
exceedingly useful in dyspepsia. Sweet red pepper, 
or paprika, is the most delicious and pleasant of all 
the varieties. The sweet garden pepper, which can be 
bought fresh during the summer and autumn, is an 
excellent condiment; the same pepper dried is availa- 
ble all the year; a small piece cooked in soups, stews, 
and sauces seasons them more acceptably than ground 
pepper. Several delicious dishes can be made from 
the fresh peppers, for which recipes are given else- 
where. 

To illustrate the question of preserving the econom- 
ical balance, we will take the making of two soups, 
bouillon and a puree, or thick soup of meat and vege- 
tables. Houillon is the most elaborate, and at the 
same time the most delicate and nutritious soup that 
can be made. It would be too expensive to admit into 
our culinary scheme were it not that the meat and 
vegetables used in making it can be cooked a second, 
time in a very appetizing way. Bouillon is a highly- 
flavored, aromatic clear soup of a dark amber- color, 
so nutritious that a cup of it drank hot will restore a 
tired or sick person as quickly as, and far more effect- 
ively than, a glass of wine. It is invaluable for the 
use of convalescents and for delicate children, so that 
it should be made in every household. Elsewhere is 
given a recipe for making clear soup, or consomme; 
the same process is to be followed in making bouillon, 
but the materials differ. In the clear soup one pound 
of beef and bone is allowed for each quart of soup; 
for bouillon three kinds of meat are used; that is, in- 
stead of beef alone, there is in bouillon beef, veal, and 
poultry. The nutritive broth of Francatelli and Du- 



'IQQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

bois resembles houillo7i^ and the consomme of Gouffe 
is made of meat and poultry. The two names C07i- 
som,me and bouillon are used here as they are gener- 
ally understood in this country. 

To make four quarts of hoidllon., or broth, use four 
pounds of soup beef and bone, the bone from the small 
end of a leg of veal, called the knuckle, and a chicken 
or fowl weighing from three to four pounds. Let the 
fowl be carefully plucked, singed, drawn, and trussed 
for boiling. The beef is to be cut in a large piece 
from the bone, and the bone broken or chopped in 
small pieces; the marrow, if there is any, being re- 
served to make any of the dishes for which recipes 
have already been given. Put all the bones in the 
bottom of the soup- kettle, lay the beef and fowl on 
them, pour in four quarts of cold water, and let the 
water gradually heat and boil; remove all scum as it 
rises. While the soup is heating, peel a large carrot 
and turnip, a medium-sized onion, and make a bouquet 
of herbs as directed in the recipe for consomm^e ; after 
the bouillon is skimmed clear, add the vegetables and 
an even tablesjDOonful of salt, and boil the broth as di- 
rected in the consomme recipe. When the chicken is 
tender, take it up, and use it for any of the dishes 
made from cooked chicken. When the soup is ready 
to strain, save the meat and vegetables to make a 
puree, or thick soup, which may be prepared within a 
few days, care being taken not to kee23 the cooked 
meat and vegetables until they spoil. The bouillon 
will keep from three to ten days after it is clarified, 
according to the weather; if it is sealed in air-tight 
bottles or jars, it will keep indefinitely, and can be 
heated when required for the table. For a journey a 
bottle of bouillon is invaluable, especially if there are 



SOUPS. 199 

children or invalids in the party. If cold houillon 
solidifies, heat it in the bottle until it can be poured 
out. 

To make a puree, or thick soup of cold meat and 
vegetables, allow a cupful of cold meat of any kind, 
and an equal quantity of cold soup vegetables, for two 
quarts of soup; cut the meat in small pieces, put it over 
the fire in the soup kettle with enough good drippings 
or butter to prevent burning, and fry it brown; when 
the meat is brown, stir with it two tablespoonfuls of 
dry flour; when the flour is brown, add the cold soup 
vegetables, cut in small pieces, and two quarts of boil- 
ing water; season the soup palatably with salt and 
pepper, and cook it slowly until both meat and vege- 
tables are tender enough to be rubbed through a col- 
ander or sieve with a potato-masher. Several hours 
will be required to cook the meat to this point. After 
the meat and vegetables have been rubbed through the 
sieve they will form a puree, or pulp ; this is to be re- 
turned to the soup kettle; if it is thicker than thick 
cream, more boiling water is to be added, and a pal- 
atable seasoning of salt and pepper. \Yhen the soup 
is of the right consistency, and has boiled, it will be 
ready to serve. 

This soup may be varied to suit the materials on 
hand. It can be made from any cold meat or poultry; 
one or more kinds of meat can be used; scraps of cold 
roast beef or mutton, cold steak or chops, cold veal 
cooked in any way, cold poultry or game birds browned 
in butter, and then boiled until the bones fall out; cold 
venison, antelope, bear, or buffalo meat, rabbits, or 
squirrels — in fact, any kind of animal flesh. At least 
two kinds of cold vegetables should be used, with a 
small proportion of onion or leeks. Canned tomatoes, 



200 FAillLY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

cold boiled rice, and cold veal or mutton make a good 
soup. Cold poultry, boiled rice, and a little milk make 
a delicious and nourishing soup. Cold gravy may be 
added to any of the cold meat soups, and the merest 
scraps of meat utilized in this way. The odd pieces 
of cold food which many persons would throw away 
can thus be transformed into a palatable dish. Our 
readers must not think this too small an economy to 
be practised. Even if there is no pressing necessity 
for such close calculation the prudent housewife will 
prefer to save a trifle in this way, and so increase the 
reserve from which she can draw some pleasant in- 
dulgence. The smallest economies need not be dis- 
dained when it is remembered that a few will put a 
new book on the shelf, or a bit of lace or a fresh pair 
of gloves in the dressing-case. 



FISH. 201 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

FISH. 

Pendi:n'g all changes of season there is an invol- 
untary longing for novelty in diet, and especially in 
summer fish seems more seasonable fare than heavy 
joints. Even the early warmth of spring induces an 
almost imperceptible lassitude, which gradually affects 
the appetite. Without being conscious of any definite 
physical ailment, a disinclination to eat becomes more 
or less marked. The substantial meats are distasteful. 
Fresh fish, with a garnish of cress or lemon, is a more 
welcome breakfast dish than the familiar chop or steak, 
and at dinner the large roast or boiled joint is accept- 
ably replaced by some palatable side dish. Some of 
the larger sea and lake fish are nutritious enough to 
form the basis of a family dinner without any meat. 
Baked fish with tomatoes, a barbecue of shad or lake 
fish, or a stuffed blue-fish with brown gravy, is sug- 
gested for such use. If any of the fish remains cold, 
it can be scalloped as a side dish for the next day's 
dinner. 

When in summer the wise housekeeper seeks to 
tempt with varied and dainty devices at table the ap- 
petite exhausted by too fervent heats she has the sea- 
son's abundance in her favor. Unless unusually long 
cold storms prevail, the summer markets upon lake 
and seaboard abound with excellent fish, w^hich is as 
well calculated to reduce the cost of our bills of fare 



202 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

as to vary them. Alternating with soup, or combined 
with it to replace a heavier meat dish, fresh fish is one 
of the most Avholesome and valuable of summer foods. 
The regulation dinner fish when served as a course is 
boiled, dressed with a sauce, and accompanied with 
plain boiled potatoes, the latter not usually being sent 
to the table a second time during dinner; when fish 
replaces meat, it may be stuffed, baked, and served 
with its own gravy, made, like meat gravy, from the 
drij3pings in the baking-pan. Combinations of baked 
fish and tomatoes are excellent, and a trifle of chives, 
shallot, garlic, or onion adds a zest to the flavor; as a 
rule this is used by all Creole and colored cooks, the 
name " Creole " attached to a dish implying the presence 
of tomatoes, and garlic or one of its congeners. 

Among the many palatable fish e^itrees w^hich may 
replace meat for a light dinner are all the forms of 
breaded, fried, and scalloped fish; cold fish warmed in 
sauce and then dusted with crumbs and browned in a 
hot oven; thick slices of fish basted frequently and 
baked with potatoes in the pan; strips of boned fish 
rolled, with a little stuffing in the middle, baked in 
gravy, and then served with mashed potatoes. Part 
of a large fish may be cooked, and the rest salted as 
directed in the recipe for corned blue-fish. It is an 
economy to buy such fish w^hen it is cheap, and pre- 
serve it for future use; that which is intended for 
cooking within two or three days may be laid in a 
brine composed of water, vinegar, salt, and whole 
spice. Oysters may replace meat w^hen care is taken 
to increase the size and vary the flavor of the dish; 
for instance, fried oysters, wdth a brown gravy made 
from the drippings in the pan mixed with flour, boil- 
ing water, and seasonings, may be served in a border 



FISH. 



203 



of mashed potatoes; or oysters stewed in a wliite sauce 
made from their own liquor, in the same border; the 
raw yolk of egg added to the sauce just before serv- 

The favorite American delicacy, soft-shell crabs, in 
July and early August, are often quite cheap enough 
to come within our limit. As they are exceedingly 
fragile, full directions for treating them will be in 
place. They come to market in shallow wooden 
boxes, packed in wet sea- weed or eel-grass, and if they 
are kept cool they will remain in good condition for 
several days. When they come into the house it is 
well to lay them gently in a pan of cold water while 
the grass is being washed; then cover them with it on 
a deep dish or in a box, and keep them in the coldest 
place available; by washing them in this way every 
day, and keeping them in the refrigerator, they have 
been preserved in the school of cookery for several 
days; this possibility is referred to in case of emer- 
gencies. Unless for good reasons, the crabs should 
not be bought in large quantities. They are good as 
long as they are alive, and are heavy in proportion to 
their size when in good condition; the color of their 
shells is a dark bluish-green, and the consistency like 
a tough paper; when cooked the shell is easily cut with 
a knife, and is eaten. To prepare the crabs for cook- 
ing remove the flap or apron on the under shell, and 
the soft fins which lie under the sides of the back shell; 
make a semicircular cut just back of the eyes, through 
both shells, using a very sharp knife, and throw away 
this portion; all the rest of the crab is good. Soft 
crabs are fried by being entirely immersed in smoking 
hot fat after being rolled in flour or meal, or breaded 
by being dipped first in cracker-dust, then in beaten 



2Q4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

eggf and again in cracker-dust; tliey are also dipped 
in melted butter, and broiled; thej^ are seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and served with a garnish of lemon 
and parsley or watercresses. 

A good fish for baking is halibut neck, available on 
the seaboard, or white fish, on the lake shores; near 
the Mississippi, buffalo and catfish are suitable, and 
on the shores of the Gulf and on the Pacific coast the 
variety is unlimited. The fish is to be cleaned and 
washed, and the fins and tail trimmed ; it is then laid 
in a baking-dish which can be sent to the table, or in 
a pan from which the fish can be removed, when done, 
without breaking. For a fish weighing about four 
pounds "a quart of tomatoes, peeled and sliced, are 
placed in the pan, together with a medium-sized onion 
peeled and sliced, a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pei^per, and a small piece of garlic, not larger than a 
dried pea, chopped very fine. The fish is to be 
dusted w^th fine sifted crumbs, dotted with butter, 
and then baked for half an hour in a moderate oven. 
Either fresh or canned tomatoes may be used for this 
dish. 

Catfish, like buffalo fish, come to the consumer v>dth- 
out head or skin. After washing the fish, dry them 
on a towel, score them on both sides at intervals of an 
inch, roll them in Indian meal or flour seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and fry them brown ; salt pork is used 
when the fish are rolled in meal, and lard, butter, or 
drippings when they are covered with flour. With 
flour a brown gravy may be made by stirring an ad- 
ditional spoonful of flour with the brown drippings in 
the frying-pan, after the fish is cooked, then adding 
enough boiling water to make a good gravy, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne; part milk and 



FISH. 



205 



part water makes an excellent gravy, and with it either 
baked or boiled potatoes augment the size of the dish. 

A barbecue of shad, Spanish mackerel, or white-fish 
is made by splitting the fish down the back, cutting 
out the backbone, cleaning, and then washing it. Af- 
ter this is done the fish is laid, skin down, in a pan 
containing two tablespoonfuls of butter, and seasoned 
palatably with salt and pepper; the pan is then set 
before the fire or in a hot oven, and the fish frequently 
basted with the melted butter until the flakes begin to 
break apart; the fish is then transferred to a hot dish, 
without breaking, and kept hot. A tablesj^oonful of 
dry flour is stirred into the baking-pan, which is to be 
set over the fire; when the flour is brown a pint of 
boiling water is gradually added, with a palatable sea- 
soning of salt and pepper. After this gravy boils it 
is to be poured over the fish, and the dish is ready to 
serve. 

Blue-fish is excellent as a substantial dish when 
stuffed and baked. Put a cupful of dry bread-crumbs 
in a frying-pan over the fire with two tablespoonfuls 
of drippings, and stir them until they begin to brown; 
then add to them enough boiling water to moisten 
them; season them highly with salt, pepper, and any 
powdered sweet herb, or celery salt, or a teaspoonful 
of finely chopped onion, and use them to stuff the fish; 
sew the stufiing in the fish, place it in a baking-pan, 
with a few slices of salt pork or two tablespoonfuls of 
drippings under it; season it Anth salt and pepper, 
dredge it with flour, and put it in a hot oven. As the 
fish browns, dredge it repeatedly with flour, and baste 
it. When a fin can easily be pulled out, or the flakes 
of the fish begin to separate, it will be done. A fish 
weighing five or six pounds will bake in about an hour 



206 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

in a moderate oven. A brown gravy is made as for 
barbecued fish. 

Scalloped fish is prepared by first freeing it from 
skin and bones, then moistening it with the gravy 
which has been served Avith it, or with white sauce 
palatably seasoned; the fish is then put into scallop 
shells, or an earthen dish which can be sent to the 
table, finely sifted bread-crumbs are dusted over the 
surface, and a little butter dotted over it, and the scal- 
loped fish is then quickly browned in the oven, and 
served hot. If cold boiled fish is scalloj^ed, it may be 
moistened with the sauce which has been served with it. 

Among the many excellent fish in the summer mar- 
ket is one almost unknown to the majority of house- 
keepers, unless at market their attention has been at- 
tracted by a large middle cut, rosy in color as prime 
veal, well veined with yellowish fat, and noticeable for 
the absence of bones, these troublesome adjuncts being 
replaced by cartilage. To the wondering inquiry, 
" What is that ?" the dealer Avill reply, " Sturgeon, 
and very chea])." The price ranges during the sum- 
mer about ten or twelve cents a pound, and the fish is 
generally to be found in the lower markets. If the 
uncooked fish looks like veal, the resemblance is 
heightened when it is served. The texture and flavor 
suggest a combination of tender veal and fine poultry. 
Classical epicures did full justice to this superb fish 
when they crowned it and carried it to the table with 
music; it has always been known in Europe as a 
"royal" fish, but from our very excess of it we fail to 
appreciate it. It possesses the advantage of keeping 
well; in fact, if sturgeon is large, it is better the second 
or third day than when freshly caught, but it should 
never be kept until it grows dark red or has a bad 



FISH. 



207 



odor. Sturgeon in good condition has a clear, rosy- 
white flesh, with many intersecting lines of semitrans- 
parent orange-colored fat, thick about the fins and ab- 
domen; the spinal cartilage is semitransparent, blu- 
ish-white, enclosing a thick nerve cord of marrow- 
like consistency, which is esteemed as a great delicacy 
in Russia, where the fish abounds. The cutlets are 
about the size and shape of slices of halibut, and the 
fish when cooked is firm and rather dry, slightly tinged 
with color, and of a peculiar but most appetizing flavor. 
It is much more nutritious than any other fish except 
salmon, and may be cooked like it. Although in Eng- 
land Miss Jewry, in her admirable cookery-book, says 
that it seems almost useless to give recipes for cooking 
this fish, so rare and expensive there as to be divided 
between royalty and the Lord Mayor of London, it 
will prove an acceptable addition to our bills of fare. 
As an introductory dish let a thick slice be fried like 
a veal cutlet for either breakfast or dinner, or a piece 
of three or four pounds baked and served with a brown 
gravy in place of the roast at dinner. Any cold cooked 
sturgeon can be laid in a pickle made by boiling, for 
two or three minutes, equal parts of vinegar and water, 
enough to cover the fish, with a tablespoonf ul of mixed 
whole spices and a sliced lemon to each quart of pickle; 
the cold sturgeon should be put into the pickle after 
it is cooked, and allowed to stand overnight. Pickled 
sturgeon is a good dish for breakfast, luncheon, or sup- 
per. 

Among the cheaper kinds of fish for which recipes 
have been promised are skate or ray, and catfish; the 
latter is a favorite fish among Philadelphia house- 
keepers, and the former is best known to English and 
Continental cooks, although cheap in this country at 



208 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

certain seasons. Unlike most fish, skate will not only 
bear keeping for a day or two in dry, moderately cool 
weather, but will be improved thereby. As the fish 
is quite large, one fin or wing, or a portion of a large 
one, will furnish several dishes; the thickest part may 
be cut in small pieces suitable for broiling or frying, 
and either cooked at once or, if seemingly tough, laid 
in an equal mixture of vinegar and water — enough to 
cover the fish — with salt, pepper, and a teaspoonful of 
whole cloves and allspice, for one or two days. For 
broiling, dry the skate on a clean towel, dip it in a very 
little melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, 
and brown it on both sides at a hot fire; serve it with 
the melted butter heated with two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of vinegar and poured over it, or with a little 
fresh butter, salt, pepper, and a sliced lemon if it is 
available. Fried skate should be rolled in fiour or 
Indian meal seasoned with salt and pepper, then fried 
brown in enough drippings to prevent burning, or 
with a few slices of salt pork; serve the fish very hot, 
with the fried pork, or with a brown gravy made by 
stirring a teaspoonful of dry flour into the frying-pan 
after the fish is taken up, gradually adding about a 
pint of boiling water, a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper, and boiling it for a minute; the gravy is to be 
served in a bowl, and if a dish of boiled or baked po- 
tatoes is also served, the fish becomes a substantial 
breakfast or supper dish, or may replace a small meat 
at dinner. The thin, gelatinous portion of the fin is 
excellent if boiled in salted boiling water until tender, 
then served on a napkin with parsley and lemon, or 
a dish of sliced cucumbers, or some tomato sauce, or 
burned butter. The burned-butter sauce is made by 
browning tAVO tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying- 



FISH. 



209 



pan, and then stirring in two thirds of a cupful of vin- 
egar ; two tablespoonf uls of either capers, parsley, or 
pickles chopped fine make an excellent savor for the 
boiled skate with burned butter. Any small portion 
of the boiled skate which remains unused should be 
freed from bones directly it comes from the table, and 
rubbed through a sieve or colander with a potato- 
masher, and kept cool until the following day for the 
preparation of soup; a cupful will be enough for three 
or four Joints of soup, made as follows : 

To make two quarts of cream of skate, put over the 
fire in a thick saucepan two heaping tablespoonf uls of 
dry flour, and two even spoonfuls of butter; stir them 
until they bubble; then gradually stir in a quart of 
boiling water, a quart of milk, the puree of skate, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt, pepper, and a very little 
grated nutmeg; stir the soup with an egg- whip until 
it is smooth, let it boil for a moment, and then serve it 
hot. If by standing it becomes thicker than cream, 
thin it with boiling water or milk. When there is as 
much as two cupfuls of the cold boiled skate, free it 
from bones, break it in small flakes, leaving on the 
skin, and heat it in a cream sauce made by mixing 
over the fire a tablespoonf ul each of flour and butter, 
a pint of hot milk or milk and water, and a rather high 
seasoning of salt and cayenne; heat the fish in the 
sauce and serve it on nicely made toast. 

Many soups have been given, and one more good win- 
ter recipe is included for brown chowder. Use for this 
any cheap winter fish, and take care to serve it very 
hot, with a plate of sea-biscuit. The chowder should 
have either the flavor of onion or tomato, one onion 
peeled and sliced or a cupful of peeled tomatoes being 
fried for five minutes with a tablespoonf ul of sweet drip^ 
14 



210 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

pings; meantime fry in a saucepan a pound of fish, 
cut in small slices and rolled in flour, in enough good 
drippings, butter, or salad - oil to prevent burning ; 
when the fish is brown, take it up and lay it on brown 
paper ; put into the saucepan two tablespoonfuls of 
dry flour, and stir until the flour is brown; then gradu- 
ally stir in two quarts of boiling water, the fried onion 
or tomato, and a high seasoning of salt and cayenne. 
When the soup thus made has boiled put the fried fish 
with it, and serve it hot with sea-biscuit. 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 211 



CHAPTER XIX. 

GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 

Many of the smaller dishes given in the chapter de- 
voted to the second service of food will well repay 
careful study on the part of the housekeeper who de- 
sires to make the best and most attractive use of cold 
food. The fact has been reiterated that good living 
within the limits prescribed in this work is possible 
only where the utmost value of food is obtained. " No 
margin for waste " is the inexorable rule. Fortunate- 
ly for the success of such an endeavor, there is a grow- 
ing inclination on the part of some servants to learn 
all their mistresses can teach them of the many little 
niceties which make up the sum of perfect cookery. 
It is designed to gather as many as our space will re- 
ceive, and in such explicit form as to prove intelligi- 
ble alike to housekeeper and help. Only such things 
are advised as have proved practicable under ordinary 
circumstances. 

If occasionally a departure seems to be made, as in 
this chaj)ter, from the line of strict economy in the 
selection of food, it is because at certain seasons, and 
in certain sections of the country, products are plenti- 
ful and cheap which are scarce and high in others. 
Take, for instance, venison, to which our present space 
is dedicated: during the winter it can be bought as 
cheap as mutton and cheaper than beef in many places. 
The recipes which are given for treating it can be ap- 



212 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

plied to any such game as antelope, elk, moose, buffalo, 
bear, or the flesh of the most important smaller game 
— raccoon, wooclchuck, beaver, and opossum. The last- 
named game is now regularly marketed in many of the 
Western and Northern cities, where our dusky South- 
ern brethren have made its merits known as second 
only to those of prime roasting pigs; let doubters try 
a fat, tender 'possum, baked in brown gravy, with 
sweet potatoes, and see if 

" Wben ycr's eat an' cat an' cat 
Ez full cz yer kin liol', 
Yer hopes dar's 'possum fur ter cat 
Up wbar de streets is gol'." 

Venison costs from fifteen to twenty-five cents a pound 
during the winter in New York, the lowest figure be- 
ing that paid for large portions, and the highest by 
the single pound. There is so little fat upon venison 
that when the intention is to put it down in drippings, 
like the old Pennsylvania Dutch roast beef, extra pro- 
vision must be made. In England the fat of mutton 
is always used to supplement that of venison; either 
that or beef suet is suitable, or lard may be em23loyed 
if it is used. The venison to be potted should be cut 
in pieces suitable for the table, wiped with a wet 
cloth to free it from hairs, cooked to the desired de- 
gree either by roasting, baking, broiling, or frying, 
rather highly seasoned, and then cooled. Meantime 
the fat in abundant quantity should be heated until 
quite melted; a separate vessel is to be used for each 
piece of meat, enough larger than the meat to permit 
it to be surrounded by an inch or more of fat; reverse 
a deep plate on the bottom of the vessel, lay the cold 
cooked vension upon it, pour in the liquid fat, which 
should be only warm enough to run freely, making 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 



213 



sure that there is at least an inch of fat on all sides 
of the meat and under and over it; when the fat is 
cold it will entirely exclude the air, and keep the meat 
from spoiling, providing it is kept in a dry, cool, even 
temperature. 

When the venison is required for the table, scrape 
off the fat, quickly heat the meat, and send it to the 
table, or serve it cold. Small joints may be corned 
like the leg of mutton, or smoked like dried beef, and 
then shaved and frizzled, or cut in small cubes or thin 
strips, and dried in the open air (above a freezing 
temperature) or in a cool oven. These dried portions 
can subsequently be softened by soaking in cold 
"water, and cooked tender in the same water for soups. 
Stews, or pies. The merest scraps of venison can be 
dried in a cool oven, then pounded to a powder, and 
used in sauces and soups; half a cupful of the pow- 
dered meat boiled with two quarts of water, and thick- 
ened with a brown roux made by browning together 
two tablespoonfuls each of dry flour and butter, will 
produce an excellent soup; it should be highly seasoned 
with salt and cayenne, and is improved by the addition 
of a glass of wine, or a little good table sauce or cat- 
sup. The dried venison, powdered, mixed with half its 
weight of melted suet, seasoned and sealed from the 
air, constitutes pemican. An excellent recipe for dry- 
ing and smoking beef could be used for venison. 

In freezing weather venison will keep indefinitely; 
it should be trimmed free from ragged and bruised 
parts, the loose fur wiped off with a wet cloth, and 
the entire surface tliickly powdered with ground gin- 
ger or pepper to protect it from insects and mice; it 
should be hung from a stout hook so that it does 
not touch anything, and in a dry place. An excellent 



214 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

pickle or marinade for venison can be made of the 
claret remaining in opened bottles, with the permission 
of our California critic, who at least cannot make us 
Charles Lamb's reproach that " everything is sopped in 
claret, steeped in claret, basted with claret, as if claret 
were as cheap as ditch water." A half-bottle of ordi- 
nary claret is well wasted on venison, especially as the 
marinade can be used for the sauce, or again as a 
pickle for other meat; to it add half a cupful of whole 
spices mixed together, such as cloves, allspice, mace, 
pepper-corns, or a red pepper, a broken bay-leaf, and 
a sprig of any sweet herb except sage, that being re- 
served for very fat meat and poultry; in this pickle 
turn the venison every day for a week, or longer, ac- 
cording to convenience. 

To cook it, drain it from the pickle, brown it in 
butter or sweet drippings, dredge it with dry flour, 
and permit that to brown, and then cover it either 
with the pickle or with boiling water ; season the 
gravy palatably, and gently simmer the venison until 
it is tender; then strain the gravy, and serve it with 
the venison very hot. Venison chops or steaks are 
delicious first quickly browned in butter enough to 
prevent burning, and then simmered for about five 
minutes with the addition of a tablespoonful of cur- 
rant-jelly to each pound of meat, the seasoning being 
of salt and cayenne. A perfect sauce is Mrs. Howe's 
for broiled venison or any game — a spoonful of dry 
mustard smoothly blended cold Avith four times its 
quantity of currant jelly. A good soup can be made 
from the bones of venison boiled for three or four 
hours in water, with any cold gravy and scraps of 
meat — a pound to a quart of water — until the meat 
falls from the bones; break the bones and extract tlie 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 215 

marrow; rub it and the meat to a pulp throiigli a col- 
ander or sieve, return it to the broth, and thicken it 
with flour and butter browned together, a tablespoon- 
ful of each to a quart of broth; season the soup high- 
ly, and serve it hot. ISTo meat-pie more savory than a 
well-made venison • pasty, the crust brown and crisp, 
the venison first stewed tender in good gravy, which 
is subsequently to be poured into the j^asty through a 
funnel inserted in a cut in the crust after it is baked; 
the juice of a lemon or a glass of port may be added 
to the gravy. 

An English method of potting venison is to bake it 
with a little mutton suet and whole spices, in enough 
claret to cover it, until it is tender, and then pack it in 
earthen jars and cover it with clarified butter. Again 
the claret; but perhaps it may be permitted, so long 
as we do not suggest Lord Bacon's expedient of raising 
"a turf or two in the garden walks to pour down to 
each a bottle of claret to recreate the sense of smell- 
ing." To pot the trimmings or remains of venison, 
stew them gently until quite tender in enough gravy 
or water to cover them; chop the cooked meat fine, 
then pound it smooth in a mortar, or rub it through a 
sieve with" a potato-masher; season it highly, press it 
down firmly in small jars or glasses, and cover it at 
least a half-inch thick with clarified butter; close the 
vessels from the air and dust. Or, cooked and fine- 
ly minced, mix the venison with an equal portion of 
minced or grated ham, season it highly, and j^ot it in 
reserve for a sandwich meat. So prepared, a spoon- 
ful mixed with three slightly beaten eggs, seasoned 
with salt and pepper, makes a most savory omelet for 
breakfast or luncheon. 

There are special autumn luxuries well known in the 



216 fa:mily living on $500 a year. 

South and Southwest, which may prove welcome to 
urban housekeepers w^ho favor the savory pasties and 
" ragoos " we hokl in legacy from the mother country; 
those living in the country will have no difficulty in 
obtaining the requisites for making the dishes, nor 
need city cooks if they wall take the trouble to skin 
rabbits or squirrels according to the directions given 
for making Brunswick stew. The operation is not 
very hard, although it seems somewhat sanguinary; in 
accom.plishing it the blood should be saved to aug- 
ment the flavor of the dish. No more washing need 
be done than that necessary to remove the hairs from 
the meat, as the entrails are not to be broken in dress- 
ing the carcass. The w^ashing can be done wdth w^ater 
containing a little salt or vinegar, and the blood sub- 
sequently mixed with this and strained to free it from 
hairs. It may be said in passing that the skins can 
be cured at home by a simple process not disagreeable. 
The recipes w^hich follow are those of old-time house- 
wives, whose every dish was a savory temptation. The 
squirrel dishes have somewhat the flavor of poultry, or 
rather of partridge; California squirrels are large and 
fat — witness the havoc they make in ripening wheat 
fields — and their flesh is tender and savory. As the 
recipes for squirrel and rabbit are interchangeable, 
only one will be given for each dish, except where 
both white and broAvn gravies are desirable. 

To make a soup, which is almost a stew, suitable 
for a meagre dinner, while green corn and beans are 
available, or when canned vegetables can be obtained, 
skin and cut in joints a pair of small squirrels, or one 
larger, put the meat over the fire in two quarts of cold 
w^ater, with the blood, and boil it until the bones can 
be taken out, removing all scum as it rises; meantime 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 217 

prepare a cupful each of corn from the ear, Lima 
beans shelled, okra washed and sliced, tomatoes peeled 
and sliced, and sweet potatoes peeled and sliced into 
cold water; rub a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour to a smooth paste. After the bones have been 
taken from the meat, put in the vegetables, the paste 
of flour and butter, and a palatable seasoning of salt 
and pepper; if there is not liquid enough to make the 
soup about as thick as cream, add boiling water; keep 
the soup covered, boil it until the vegetables are ten- 
der, and then serve it. Rabbit soup is made by dress- 
ing a rabbit and cutting it in small joints; peel and 
slice half a cupful of onion, and slice thin a quarter of 
a pound of fat ham or bacon; put all these ingredients 
over the fire, with just enough extra fat or drippings 
to prevent burning, and brown them; then add the 
blood and two quarts of boiling water; if there is pars- 
ley, add a tablespoonful chopped fine, a blade of mace, 
a dozen whole cloves, a small red pepper chopped fine, 
and a palatable seasoning of salt; keep the saucepan 
covered, and boil the soup until the meat can be rubbed 
through a colander or sieve with a potato-masher; 
return the pulp thus made to the saucepan, after hav- 
ing browned a heaping tablespoonful each of butter 
and flour together in the bottom ; add all the broth and 
enough boiliug water to make a good soup, test the 
seasoning, and serve it. 

The last soup may be used whenever a heavy one is 
desired as a first course at dinner; the first one, made 
with the vegetables, is in fact a savory stew which can 
be used as the chief part of a dinner. An old Knicker- 
bocker fricassee was made by rolling joints of rabbit or 
squirrel in flour, browning them in butter enough to 
prevent burning, covering them with boiling water, 



218 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



seasoning them liigbly with salt and pepper, and then 
gently stewing until the meat became tender; the blood 
might be added to increase the savoriness of the dish. 
The flavor of the dish may be varied by using a little 
cream in place of the blood, or by the addition of a 
few slices of salt pork. 

A stew of squirrel which closely imitates terrapin 
was a noted dish in old Washington days; the recipe 
came directly to the author from Mrs. S. S. Ward, 
whose terrapin was so entirely appreciated by Clay 
and Webster. To make the dish, dress three fat squir- 
rels, cut off the legs with the larger or second joint at- 
tached, cut off the feet, and trim the joints to resem- 
ble the legs of terrapin, removing the large bones; put 
aside the bodies for another dish; wash the joints in a 
little water to remove the hairs, mix the blood with 
this water, strain it to free it from hairs, and save it; 
put the chosen joints of squirrel over the fire in water 
enough to cover them, w^th a little salt, adding the 
mixed blood and water as the water boils away; stew 
the squirrel gently until the meat is tender; then take 
it up, and strain the broth; quickly brown the squirrel 
over the fire in a saucepan, with a heaping teaspoonful 
each of butter and dry flour, then gradually stir in the 
strained broth, until a smooth sauce is formed; season 
the dish highly with salt, pepper, cayenne, and a very 
little grated nutmeg. While the squirrel is heating 
make half a cupful of egg balls — for which the recipe 
is elsewhere given — and add them to the stew; remove 
the saucepan from the fire, stir in the yolks of two 
raw eggs and a gill of good Madeira or sherry, and 
serve the stew at once; the imitation is admirable, 
and the dish quite possible in any part of the coun- 
try where squirrels abound. Another imitation of 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 219 

terrapin with calf s-head is described further on. A 
good squirrel or rabbit pie can be made by removing 
the fur and entrails, saving the blood; the meat may 
be stewed as directed above, and then baked in a crust, 
or put uncooked into a crust with the blood and a little 
water and seasonings, and the j)ie baked thoroughly 
in a slow oven to insure the perfect cooking of the 
meat; both the tenderness of the meat and the savori- 
ness of the pie can be best secured by first stewing 
the squirrel. 

A good pudding can be made of either meat by first 
dressing, and stewing it with only enough sauce to 
prevent burning; or the meat may be fried if it is 
very tender. For one rabbit or a pair of squirrels use 
the yolks of five eggs beaten smooth and mixed in a 
bowl with a heaping tablespoonf ul of butter slightly 
softened by heat, a palatable seasoning of salt and 
cayenne, a pint of milk, and enough flour to make a 
batter thick enough to hold a drop from the mixing 
spoon for a moment on the surface; beat the whites 
of five eggs to a stiff froth, quickly and lightly mix it 
with the batter, lay the meat in an earthen dish, pour 
in the batter, and bake the pudding for a half-hour in 
a moderate oven, until the batter is cooked. Like the 
other dishes here described, this one is to replace a 
heavier meat dish. Rabbits and hares are generally 
made into brown stews, or potted after being stewed, 
an inch-thick layer of clarified butter being poured 
over them, after they are cold, for the purpose of ex- 
cluding the air. Butter is clarified by melting it with 
gentle heat, and then carefully pouring it away from 
all sediment. 

Along the Eastern Shore and through the Southern 
States savory dishes are made from raccoons and opos- 



220 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sums, and in certain Xew England localities young 
woodchucks are cooked successfully. The old South- 
ern cooks made excellent dishes. The following re- 
cipes are locally noted. Any of these animals can be 
skinned, or they can be scalded and scraped like suck- 
ing pigs; the skin, especially of the 'possum and 'coon, 
is considered a delicacy, like "crisp, tawny, well- 
w^atched, not over-roasted crackling "; therefore scald 
and scrape, but do not skin, a 'possum or 'coon; if it 
is young and tender it need not be parboiled, but old 
ones should undergo this operation if they are to be 
used at all. Remove the entrails carefully, chop the 
heart and liver, and fry them brown with a heaping 
tablespoonful of butter and a small onion peeled and 
chopped; meantime soak enough bread to fill the car- 
cass in cold water, squeezing out the water w^hen the 
bread is soft; when the liver and onion are brow^n, 
put the bread w^th them, season the stuffing thus made 
highly with salt, pepper, any sweet herb, or parsley, 
and sew it up in the carcass; an Qgg may be added if 
it is desired; either roast or bake the 'possum, basting 
it wdth its own dripping or with butter until it is 
brow^n and crisp; if young, it will require about an 
hour to cook; a gravy is made from the drippings in 
the pan as gravy is made for roast or baked poultry; 
roast 'possum is sometimes stuffed wdth sliced apple; 
it should be served with aj^ple-sauce, and have a baked 
apple in the mouth, like roast pig. 

In the ante-bellum days cold roast 'possum was a 
favorite Southern dish. When either 'possum, 'coon, 
w^oodchuck, or beaver is old, it should be parboiled to 
remove its strong flavor, and then baked or roasted; or 
it may be dressed, soaked overnight in cold salted 
water, and then made into a savory stew with sweet 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 



221 



herbs and spices. Sweet potatoes are sometimes baked 
in the pan with them, and a dish of either baked or 
boiled sweet potatoes always goes to the table with 
them. 

In Kentucky and Tennessee the favorite " bluesrrass 
burgoo ".is a savory stew of squirrels or some wild 
meat, with sweet potatoes, green corn, gumbo, and 
other late summer or autumn vegetables. All through 
the Southern States cranes, herons, and other wild 
water-birds are cooked as game birds, broiled or 
roasted when tender, or made into high-seasoned stews. 
It is a noticeable fact that where prejudice is not al- 
lowed to restrict the bill of fare to a few well-known 
articles of food, the table is enriched with many pala- 
table and nutritious dishes; even at the risk of revolt- 
ing the fastidious, the fact must be recorded that in 
a neighboring Southern city muskrats are sold on 
market-days by some of the dealers in garden truck. 
Cooked by the old negro cooks, a stew of muskrat, or 
musquash, is excellent. Colonel de Yoe, in his " Market 
Assistant " says that the old-time dealers in the l!^ew 
York market sold opossums, and occasionally wood- 
chucks; and that the musquash, as dressed and eaten 
by persons known to him, is "tender and very well 
flavored;" he also records a raccoon hunt in "the do- 
minions of New Jersey," and the excellence of the 
flesh of 'possums which have fed on persimmons. Both 
persimmons and 'possums come to the New York 
markets now. 

It is Haslitt — is it not ? — who says that man ap- 
proximates to his inferior contemporaries only in the 
matter of fruits, salads, and oysters, "not to mention 
wild duck"; but some American housekeepers ignore 
this grand verity in their cookery of game; they might 



222 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

almost say with tlie prairie hostess that "when it's 
done b'iled, ye'd never know it fur pa'tridge." If 
game must be very well done to suit the family taste, 
it would be well to pot it, or make it into a savory 
stew in accordance with some of the recipes already 
given, or to prepare a Kentucky gumbo. The vege- 
tables required for this dish can be used either fresh 
or canned, or the dried ones may be softened by soak- 
ing overnight in cold water, the same water being 
used in the gumbo. A large rabbit or three squirrels 
will make two quarts of gumbo. After being skinned, 
roll the joints in flour, fry them brown in butter, or 
with a quarter of a pound of "middling," or bacon, 
sliced, add two quarts of boiling water, one pint of 
okra, one onion sliced, three sweet potatoes cut in 
small dice, a cupful each of chopped cabbage and 
grated carrot, a red pepper chopped, and a rather high 
seasoning of salt and pepper; if gumbo filet is avail- 
able, stir a tablesjooonful into the gumbo after it is 
dished; or if the shoots or young leaves of sassafras 
can be obtained, tie a handful in a thin cloth and boil 
them with the gumbo; w^hen both vegetables and meat 
are tender, serve the gumbo in a tureen, very hot. 

Small game may be barbecued successfully, either 
being quartered for convenience, or left entire and 
stuffed with a highly seasoned force-meat of the heart 
and liver chopped and fried with sweet herbs, and 
then mixed with bread softened in cold water, or with 
mashed potatoes; the game is to be dredged with flour 
and basted with drippings until it is brown, and then 
covered with boiling water, Avell seasoned, and baked 
until tender. Another way is to remove the largest 
bones after splitting the carcass down the back; to 
chop and fry the edible entrails with butter and bread- 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 223 

crumbs until brown, then moisten them with boiling 
water, season them highly with salt, pepper, sweet 
herbs, and spices, and sew this force-meat up inside the 
flesh; roast or bake the game, making a brown gravy 
from the drippings in the pan; potatoes may be baked 
with it if it is to be eaten hot. A brown stew may be 
made by frying joints of cold or uncooked game with 
flour and butter, then covering them with boiling 
water well seasoned, and stewing them until tender; 
sweet potatoes cut small, or corn or beans, may be 
stewed with the game if it is to be eaten hot. The 
fact should be remembered that when any such dish is 
to be potted for keeping, the vegetables would inter- 
fere with its preservation. To pot any of these meats 
take them from the gravy, cool them, pack them in 
earthen jars or covered dishes, just cover them with 
their gravy, and then with clarified butter, or with 
claret if it is available, and pour about a half -inch of 
olive-oil upon the surface of the claret to exclude the air. 
Claret, like sack, was much used with game in early 
English cookery. A favorite dish of the last century 
may prove useful in the preservation of small game; 
rabbits, hares, pigeons, or any other of the larger birds 
will serve for if. After they are dressed, cut them in 
joints, put them into a wide-mouthed jar with salt, 
whole spice, sweet herbs, and a little marrow or suet 
interspersed; cover the meat with broth or claret, or 
with the blood of the game mixed with vinegar, close 
the jar, and boil it in a deep saucepan half full of 
water, or bake it in a moderate oven, for three or four 
hours; use it either hot or cold. A gallimaufry of 
game was made by stewing joints of cold game with 
salt, pepper, a whole shallot or a few chives, some pars- 
ley, the yellow rind of lemon or orange, the juice, a 



224 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

few crumbs, and brotli enough to moisten the dish. 
Another gallimaufry Avas made by mincing the flesh 
of one bird or animal, seasoning it highly with salt, 
pepper, sweet herbs, spice, lemon, wine, chopped mush- 
rooms, chives, parsley, suet, or fat bacon, and then us- 
ing it to stuff another boned carcass; in fact, the dish 
was very like the modern French galantine, or boned 
bird or game. Partridges, or " short-legged hens," 
Avere favorite English fare long before Justice Shal- 
low bade Davy tell " William cook " to set before Sir 
John "some pigeons, a couple of short-legged hens, 
and any pretty little tiny kickshaws," which latter 
dainties Avere simply patties or rissoles of fruit or 
mince-meat, baked or fried. Delicious, too, Avere the 
pigeon dumplings, made by enclosing cold pigeons 
minced, and highly seasoned with rich gravy, in a del- 
icate pastry, and baking them like apple-dumplings, 
for use either hot or cold; the bones and trimmings 
Avere stewed for the graA^y. 

Pigeons stuffed with bread and oysters, or with 
grated ham, or small tongues boiled, and baked in 
pies, or stCAved and potted, are excellent winter dishes 
to hold in reserA^e for unexpected guests. Or they 
may be coA^ered with partly melted currant jelly, and 
that with oil or clarified butter to shield them from 
the air. Joints of game fried in butter may be potted 
with jell}^, or Avith Mrs. Howe's game sauce of jelly 
and mustard. A pudding may be made of joints of 
cold game coA'ered with a batter of a quart of milk, six 
eggs, and six tablespoonf uls of flour, the game being 
Avell seasoned, and the pudding baked until broAAm in 
a moderate oven; or small birds filled Avith the fried 
hearts and livers mixed Avith crumbs, and fried before 
the batter is poured OA'er them; or a batter pudding, 



GAME AND GAME BIRDS. 225 

made of a pint of milk, four l^eaten eggs, a teaspoon- 
f ul of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of liour, baked un- 
der any large land game birds. All these dishes are 
both excellent and easy of preparation. 

The water game birds should neither be stuffed nor 
baked with batter or pastry, but they may be made 
into ragoHts when cold. These dishes are of impor- 
tance, because all such game is preferred by epicures 
rare, and only the breast is carved ; the rest of the 
carcass being tough and underdone, requires the sec- 
ond cooking. The meat may be boiled in sufficient 
water to cover it, until tender enough to rub through 
a sieve with a potato-masher, and then highly seasoned 
and potted, being covered with melted or clarified but- 
ter. 

As a second dish, to be used in combination with 
fish, at a small dinner, any of the cheaper game birds 
are excellent. The small birds can be broiled if they 
are in prime condition; but if they are lean and possi- 
bly tough, they will be best stewed in a ragoUt, and 
served on toast, with plenty of brown gravy. After 
they are dressed, brown them with sweet dripj^ings or 
butter, dust them over with flour, and brown it; then 
cover them with boiling water, season them, and stew 
them gently until they are tender. 

The larger game birds are to be broiled or roasted; 
the various ducks are in season in the spring. Of 
course canvas-back are best, but they are generally too 
expensive for our use in the East. Upon the Great 
Lake borders and on the southern Pacific coast they 
sometimes come within our limit of cost. Of the 
smaller duck, teal are the most delicious. If the reader 
is not familiar with broiled teal, the dish is commend- 
ed. Few game birds can compare with a plump, ten- 
15 



226 FAMILY LlVl^'G ON $500 A YEAR. 

der teal broiled rare, and served hot, with salt, pepper, 
and butter. The cost of teal in the New York market 
varies from fifty cents to one dollar a brace, but in the 
West they are much less expensive; in the early spring 
they often are plentiful in the Mississij^pi River cities 
at about thirty cents a brace. Teal are about as large 
as prime pigeons after they are cooked. 

Like terrapin and green turtle, canvas-back ducks 
are luxuries upon the Eastern coast, how^ever plentiful 
they may be on the Pacific and the great Western 
lakes; but if one has only a single feast in a lifetime 
there is all the more reason why it should be properly 
dressed. To no dish does Dean Swift's injunction 
more fitly apply than to canvas-back: "See that nei- 
ther yourself nor the meat be overdressed;" no system 
is more pernicious, for w^ater-birds especially; but w^e 
cannot yet conform to the good old Maryland mam- 
my's rule of " jes' lettin' de duck fly froo de kitchen." 
From twenty to twenty-five minutes in a hot oven 
seems to be ample time to allow for baking a canvas- 
back; if a clear, hot, roasting fire is available, five min- 
utes less w^ould serve to cook the breast rare or medi- 
um rare; only the breast is eaten at the first service, 
and, if quantity permits, the entire portion is allowed 
for a lover of the bird; half the quantity would serve 
a lady jDossessed of a legitimate apj^reciation of the 
luxury; but where appetite or expediency dictate less 
bountiful service, the breast should be quickly cut 
straight down to the bone, in as many slices as are 
desired, before lifting any out, for not a drop of the 
gravy nor an atom of heat should be lost. 

For baked or roast canvas-back the seasoning should 
be simple — only salt, cayenne, and butter, with a gar- 
nish of acid jelly or lemon. Sometimes a few stalks 



GAME AND GAME BIKDS. 227 

of celery are inserted in the bird, but absolutely no 
stuffing is permissible: the cook Avho would dress this 
prince of the shore like an ordinary water-fowl could 
never be made to understand flavors, much less to de- 
velop them. Celery is considered the proper salad for 
canvas-back, sometimes accompanied by a mayonnaise. 

Broiled canvas-back is delicious, either with lemon, 
sour orange, or Mrs. Howe's jelly and mustard sauce. 
The inside of the bird should be exposed to a clear 
hot fire for about twelve minutes, and the skin turned 
to the heat just long enough to brown it; the service 
should be immediate, so that the bird can be eaten 
hot. 

A favorite Philadelphia method is to roast the bird 
nearly done, and then send it to the table in a chafing- 
dish over a lighted lamp. 

On the Eastern Shore canvas-back is served with a 
garnish of fried hominy and jelly. The question at 
once arises of the second service of the duck, since 
only the breast is served at the first. Several excel- 
lent recipes have been given for brown stews of birds 
and game, and for an Indian curry of duck; rice ac- 
companies the curry, of course. 

In a ragoUt the carcass of the cold duck would be 
cut in joints, browned in butter, dredged with a table- 
sj^oonful of dry flour and stirred until the flour 
browned, then covered with boiling water, seasoned 
lightly with salt and cayenne, and stewed tender. 
Fried hominy, fried bread, or boiled or fried rice could 
be served with the rago^dt; in dishing it, a glass of 
wine, or a couple of tablespoonfuls of acid jelly would 
greatly add to its flavor. A delicious pie could be 
made by enclosing such a ragoUt in a light pastry, 
pouring the surplus gravy into the pie after baking it. 



228 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

The joints could be stewed and j^otted like game, or 
made into a savory soup; in no case should a particle 
of the bird remain unused. 

A delicious salmi of cold duck can be made by fry- 
ing the joints in a little salad-oil, covering them with 
claret, or with gravy and lemon- juice, seasoning the 
salmi highly with cayenne and lightly with salt, and 
simmering it until the duck is tender. Or it may be 
stewed tender in brown gravy with a few olives, and 
finished with a crarnish of fried bread. 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 



229 



CHAPTER XX. 

SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 

Elsewhere in tliis book mention is made of the 
various dishes which can be made of the fowl or 
chicken used in making bouillon, the condition being 
laid down that the bird is to be taken out of the broth 
as soon as tender, not being allowed to cook until the 
flesh is ready to fall from the bones. The boiled 
chicken may be used while it is still hot by wiping it 
with a dry towel, rubbing it with butter, dredging it 
with flour, and then browning it in a hot oven. A 
gravy can be made for it by stirring over the fire in 
the baking -pan a tablespoonful each of butter and 
flour until they are brown, then gradually stirring in 
a pint of boiling water and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper; as soon as the gravy boils it will be 
ready to use. While the chicken and gravy are being 
prepared, a dish of potatoes (or any vegetable) and a 
simple dessert can be cooked, thus laying the basis of 
a good plain dinner. Elsewhere a good recipe is given 
for roast chicken with liver sauce, for which the boiled 
fowl could be used. The cold chicken could be used 
for the chicken pie for which a recipe is also given, or 
for brown fricassee. This dish is made by cutting 
cold chicken in small joints, putting it over the fire in 
a saucepan with enough sweet drij^pings or butter to 
prevent burning, and browning it; when the chicken 
is brown, add a tablespoonful of flour, and stir the 



230 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

chicken until the flour is brown; then cover it with 
boiling water, season it wath salt and pepper, and 
let it boil five minutes, stirring it until the gravy is 
smooth; the fricassee Avill then be ready to serve. 

The same preparation will answer for a chicken pot- 
pie. After the chicken is prepared as directed above, 
sift half a pound (about a pint) of flour with half an 
even teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a saltspoonful 
of pepper, and a heaping teaspoonful of any good 
baking -pow^ler; quickly wet the flour with enough 
cold w^ater to mix it to a dough just stiff enough to 
flatten with the hand to a cake which can be laid upon 
the chicken in the saucepan. Work very quickly, put 
the dough on the top of the chicken, butter the lid in- 
side, and cover the saucepan to keep in the steam. 
Let the pot-pie steam for twenty minutes by gentle 
heat; then try the crust in the thickest part, when it 
is done, put the chicken on a platter, lay the crust on 
it, and serve it. The success of this dish depends 
upon cooking the crust or dough as soon as it is mixed, 
before the carbonic-acid gas can escape, which results 
from the whetting of the baking-powder, and w^hich 
should make the crust light. 

A very good French dish made from boiled chicken 
is called a fritot; the chicken is cut in joints, laid in 
a bowl wdth three tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, one of 
vinegar, a saltspoonful of salt, and a quarter of a salt- 
sjioonful of pepper, and turned several times in the 
course of two hours. About twenty minutes before 
dinner-time put the frying-kettle half-full of fat over 
the fire to heat; make a frying batter by mixing in a 
bowl a cupful of flour, the yolk of one Qgg, a table- 
spoonful of salad-oil, half an even teaspoonful of salt, 
and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper; beat the 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 



231 



white of the egg to a stiff froth; with the flour mix 
enoiio^h cold water to make a batter stiff enouo'h to 
hold a drop from the mixing spoon upon its surface; 
when the fat begins to smoke, lightly add the beaten 
white to the batter, dip the chicken into it, and fry it 
light brown in the smoking hot fat; take the chicken 
from the fat with a skimmer, lay it for a moment on 
brown paper to free it from grease, and then serve it. 
After frying any article of food the fat should be 
strained through a hair sieve or a thin cloth, and kept 
in an earthen bowl. 

The cold chicken may be breaded and fried after it 
is cut in joints. Have ready the frying-kettle half- 
full of fat over the fire; sift a large platter of dried 
bread crumbs, and beat two eggs until they are quite 
smooth. When the fat begins to smoke, dip the 
chicken first in crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again 
in crumbs, and fry it brown in the hot fat, laying it 
on brown paper for a moment, after it is done, to free 
it from grease. There can always be j^lenty of crumbs 
on hand if care is taken to dry all bits of broken bread 
in a cool oven, and then crush them with a rolling-pin, 
and sift them; the fine crumbs are suitable for bread- 
ing, and should be sifted every time they are used; 
the coarse crumbs are good for puddings. Crumbs 
should be kept in glass or earthen jars in a cool place. 

Cold boiled chicken makes a good supper dish pre- 
pared as jellied chicken. Put an ounce of gelatine in 
a pint of warm water on the back of the stove, and 
occasionally stir it until it is dissolved; then add a 
pint of chicken broth or houillon to it, and a palatable 
and rather high seasoning of salt and pepper, and 
strain it. While the gelatine is being dissolved cut 
all the chicken off the bones; save the skin unless it is 



232 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



particularly disliked; put the chicken into an earthen 
or tin mould, press it down, and pour the dissolved 
gelatine into the mould, taking care to completely 
saturate the chicken; set a flat dish or a piece of board 
on the chicken, with a weight on it, and let it cool; 
when the jellied chicken is cold, remove it from the 
mould, slice it, and serve it cold. 

Chicken croquettes, which are esteemed as great del- 
icacies, can be made from cold boiled chicken. As 
they contain mushrooms, eggs, and wine, they must 
rank among our extravagances, but they need by no 
means to be tabooed; we can occasionally afford them, 
even as we can afford now and then to offer a friend 
a glass of good claret at a nice little dinner. In order 
to make chicken croquettes successfully, the croquette 
mixture should be made several hours before the time 
of serving, so that it may become hard enough to be 
easily shaped with the hands, and yet be creamy after 
it is fried. A good croquette will be quite soft inside 
the crust of egg and bread crumb, and a little practice 
is needed to gain the light and yet firm touch which 
is required in shaping the croquettes. Any tyro can 
roll the thick, hashlike mixture which is too often 
served as croquettes; but an epicure would decline 
to eat such an apology for one of the daintiest of 
dishes. It is really worth while to take the trouble 
to arrive at the happy medium in consistency which 
makes the manipulation of the mixture possible, and 
yet leaves it creamy when finished. For a dozen 
croquettes use three quarters of a pound of chicken 
cut quite fine, but not hashed; a quarter of a pound, 
or half a can, of mushrooms, also cut fine; a tea- 
spoonful of grated onion; a tablespoonful of butter; a 
heaping tablespoonful of flour; the yolks of two raw 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 233 

eggs; and a glass of sherry: these ingredients make 
the chicken croquettes of Gouffe, the chef oi the Paris 
Jockey Club; no croquette served at the best Amer- 
ican hotel or club is superior to this, and it is infinite- 
ly more delicious than those prepared by celebrated 
caterers. Sometimes chopped truffles replace the mush- 
rooms, but they make croquettes very expensive. Put 
the grated onion and butter in a saucepan over the 
fire, and fry them until the onion begins to color, then 
stir in the flour, the liquor from half a can of mush- 
rooms, or a scant cupful of chicken broth, the chopped 
chicken and mushrooms, a palatable seasoning of salt 
and pej^per, a very little grated nutmeg, and a glass of 
sherry; stir the mixture over the fire until it begins 
to boil; then take the saucepan off the fire, stir in the 
yolks of two raw eggs without beating them, and pour 
out the mixture on an oiled dish; put a few drops of 
salad-oil on the surface of the croquette mixture to 
keep it from hardening while it is cooling, and set it 
aside in a cool place for two or three hours until it is 
stiff enough to handle with ease. The first time the 
croquettes are made, allow five or six hours from the 
beginning; the mixture Avill not be injured by stand- 
ing overnight, and by so doing it becomes sufficiently 
firm to form and bread without breaking. The moulds 
for croquettes are practically useless. After the cro- 
quettes are shaped and breaded they may remain in a 
dish of crumbs for several hours before frying without 
injury. These remarks are made so that the novice 
may allow time enough to make sure that the cro- 
quettes can be easily manipulated. If after the mixt- 
ure is quite cold it is too soft to shape with light 
and careful touches, mix over the fire a tablespoonful 
each of butter and flour, and when they are smoothly 



234 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

blended put the croquette mixture with them, heat 
it, then again cool it, and shape it in croquettes. To 
shape chicken croquettes, have ready a large dish of 
sifted crumbs, two or three eggs beaten smooth, and 
the frying-kettle half-full of fat heating over the fire. 
AYet the hands in cold water and shake it off, take a 
tablespoonful of the mixture in the palm of the left 
hand, with the right hand roll and pat it into the form 
of a thick cork, an inch and a half thick, and about 
two and a half inches long. Be careful not to make 
the roll long and thin, as that form is apt to break; 
keep it short and compact; use only enough water to 
keep it from sticking to the hands, and work quickly 
and lightly. As each croquette is formed, lay it in 
the dish of crumbs. When all are made, roll them in 
the crumbs; dip each one in beaten egg, and again 
roll them in the crumbs, and then fry them in smok- 
ing hot fat. When the croquettes are light brown, 
take them from the fat with a skimmer, lay them on 
brown paper for a moment to free them from grease, 
and then serve them hot. When the croquettes are 
allowed to stand after they are shaped, they must have 
a final roll in crumbs before they are fried. When 
eggs are plentiful, three or four yolks may be used; 
they will serve to thicken the mixture without impair- 
ing the delicacy of the croquettes. The croquettes 
should be served on a folded napkin, or in a bed of 
parsley when that pretty garnish is available. 

Among the many savory side dishes which can be 
held in reserve for an unexpected addition to the usual 
number at table, or for use with small hot dishes of 
meat when large joints are not desirable, the French 
galcmti7ie and its accompaniment, aspic jelly, stand 
pre - eminent for attractiveness and convenience ; its 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 235 

economy depends upon its ingredients. From the 
truffled turkey the scale of cost descends to the boned 
shoulder of mutton, and we shall run the scale, because, 
while we cannot afford the luxury of boned turkey 
frequently, we may attempt it at least for wedding 
festivities, golden and otherwise. And the humbler 
forms of galantines will prove gastronomic treasures 
in the hands of housewives who are capable of evolv- 
ing distinctive flavors from the chaos of kitchen spice- 
boxes. Much of the success of economical cookery 
depends upon the flavor of the dish; the simplest 
food, well cooked and palatably seasoned, is far more 
aj^petizing than expensive fare that is devoid of salt 
or savor. The necessity for preserving individual 
flavor has already been indicated as a means for ex- 
tending the variety that is such a charm at table, but 
when the force-meat of ^galantine is composed wholly 
or in part of cooked food, the seasoning must be ])vo- 
nounced enough to replace the intense flavor of fresh- 
ly cooked meat. The galantine proper is made from 
choice poultr}^, game birds, or small animals, boned, 
stuffed with a force-meat of fresh meat, and boiled in 
a broth which is subsequently made into aspic jelly. 
The dish is always served cold. Somewhat similarly 
composed dishes of ordinary poultry and meats are 
baked and served hot, with a brown sauce made from 
their ov\m drippings. 

The operation of boning is the same in both in- 
stances; briefly as possible described, it is as follows: 
After carefully removing all feathers or fur from the 
subject to be boned, great care being taken to preserve 
the skin intact, the carcass is laid back upward upon a 
table. Where, in the boning of a bird, the wings and 
second joints are referred to, the fore and hind legs 



236 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

of game animals or sucking pigs would be similarly 
treated, and the same care would be exercised to avoid 
penetrating to the entrails. With a sharp, small knife 
cut the skin at the back of the neck, loosen the skin 
from the neck, and cut off the neck and head, leaving 
the neck skin attached to the body; cut the skin down 
the middle of the back the entire length, and loosen 
it with" the knife point from the backbone, leaving the 
flesh attached to the skin; return to the neck, cut the 
skin with the flesh attached away from the upper part 
of the backbone, working towards the junction of the 
wings and the body; unjoint the wings from the inside, 
leaving the bones in the wings for the present, and 
continue to cut forward until the crop is reached; 
loosen the crop from the skin and flesh, and remove it 
without breaking it; cut downward from the wings, 
taking care not to penetrate to the intestines where 
the thin inner membrane is stretched over the ribs. 
When the union of the second joint and the body is 
reached, unjoint the legs from the inside, leaving the 
bones in the legs, and cut forward towards the middle 
of the breast. The skin with a slight inner layer of 
flesh is stretched very taut across the breastbone, and 
careful cutting is here required to keep the skin in- 
tact; if it is cut or torn, it must be sewed before the 
galantine can be stuffed. 

When both sides of the turkey have been cut free 
from the carcass, the flesh and skin can be spread out 
on the cutting board or table, the thickest part of the 
flesh cut and laid over the scant portions, and the 
bones of the wings and legs taken out from the inside 
by cutting the flesh loose from the bone and turning 
it with the skin off the bone as a glove would be 
turned off the hand, until the second joint of the wing 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 237 

and the drumstick of the legs are reached; these may be 
cut off to save bonhig, and are to be boiled with the 
galantine. The bones of the carcass freed from the en- 
trails are to be boiled as a basis for the aspic jelly; the 
heart, gizzard, and neck are also to be boiled; the liver 
is to be freed from the gall, and used as will presently 
be indicated. 

Put the bones and trimmings of the turkey in a 
large pot, like a ham-boiler, with a gallon of cold water 
and half a cupful of salt, and let them boil, remov- 
ing all scum as it rises; peel a carrot, a turnip, and an 
onion, and stick into the onion a dozen whole cloves; 
lay on the left hand a small bunch of well- washed pars- 
ley with the root attached; Avithin the leaves lay a blade 
of mace, a bay-leaf, a small red pepper or a dozen pep- 
percorns, a sprig of any sweet herb except sage, and a 
few celery leaves if they are available; fold the root 
and leaves of the parsley so as to enclose the spices, 
and tie the little package compactly with a string. 

All these vegetables are to be put with the bones as 
soon as the scum has been removed. While the water 
is boiling, make the force-meat for the galantine. Its 
ingre'dients determine the cost of the dish; a small 
box of truffles costs in New York from seventy-five 
cents to a dollar; a box or can of mushrooms from 
thirty to forty cents; either or both may be used, or 
only half a can of mushrooms. The force-meat is 
made from finely chopped poultry and lean veal, or 
from veal and lean fresh pork, or from good sausage 
meat; in quantity about two thirds the weight of the 
turkey is required. The meat must be free from 
membranes and sinews, and chopped as fine as sau- 
sage meat. A quarter of a pound of clear salt pork 
or a half-pound of boiled tongue, cut in long strips, 



238 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the pork a quarter of an inch square, and the tongue 
half an inch, greatly imjorove the flavor of the force- 
meat. To each pound of the force-meat allow one 
raw egg, one even teaspoonful of salt, and one of the 
following spices mixed — not one spoonful of each 
spice — ground cloves, allspice, mace, and nutmeg, and 
a saltspoonful of black pepper. A glass of good 
sherry or Madeira to each pound is imperative if the 
proper flavor is desired; no other flavoring will replace 
it, or assist in keeping the force-meat, which is espe- 
cially important in warm weather. After the season- 
ings are thoroughly mixed with the force-meat an inch 
layer is to be spread uj)on the flesh of the turkey, 
which is laid, skin down, flat upon the table; at inter- 
vals of about an inch lay portions of the tongue or 
salt pork, and some of the mushrooms; then put on an- 
other layer of force-meat, more of the pork or tongue, 
and the mushrooms ; when the force-meat is all in 
place put the liver and trufiles in the centre of the 
whole, fold the sides up over them without disturbing 
the other ingredients, and secure the force-meat by 
sewing up the skin. 

This operation of sewing the boned bird demands 
a careful hand, for the skin of a tender bird breaks 
easily away from the string. The following has been 
found to be the most satisfactory method of j^rocedure. 
Use strong white cord, and a large needle which car- 
ries it readil}^; if several needles are at hand, thread 
them with the cord doubled, two carrying a yard 
each of cord to be used for the ends of the bird, and 
one carrying about a yard and a half for the back. 
Sew up the two ends first by running the needle in 
loose stitches, such as are used for overcasting, so that 
by drawing both ends of the doubled cord the end of 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 



239 



the bird can be closed as a bag is drawn together, and 
the ends of the cord tied to hold the skin in place. 
After the ends are secured,, the back can be sewed 
more easily. The best stitch for the back is a button- 
hole about half an inch long; the stitches must be so 
set through skin and flesh that the bird can be rounded 
to its first form, and the cord must be carefully drawn 
to avoid breaking through the skin. If, as the sewing 
progresses, the force-meat proves to be excessive in 
quantity, some of it may be taken out and put aside 
to fry like meat balls or to bake in puff-paste as sau- 
sage rolls. AYhen the bird is sewed, it is to be wiped 
with a wet towel, and rolled up in a cloth for boiling. 
Cut four pieces of inch-wide w^hite tape about a yard 
long, and spread out on the table a yard and a half of 
clean cloth about half a yard wider than the length 
of the boned turkey; have stout cord or tape for ty- 
ing the ends. The operation of rolling the turkey is 
best performed by two persons, but one can accomplish 
it if care is taken to keep the cloth free from wrinkles, 
and pull it very tight and even, so that the bird is en- 
closed in a compact roll; when the length of tlie cloth 
has been wrapped firmly around the bird, secure it by 
tying the four broad tapes at intervals around it; then 
make the ends of the cloth free from folds on the in- 
side, and gather and tie first one and tlien the other, 
holding the cloth in the left hand pushed as close as 
possible to the bird, the hand being held exactly in the 
centre of the end of the roll, and the string used to hold 
the cloth in place being Avound around it many times. 
The object sought is to enclose the bird so smooth- 
ly in the cloth that its surface will show no creas- 
es w^hen cooked, and so tightly that its shape will 
be kej^t intact during boiling. After the turkey is 



240 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

wrapped and tied, weigh it; allow twenty minutes to 
a pound for boiling it with the bones and vegetables, 
and enough boiling water to cover it; if at the end of 
that length of time the cloth appears a little loose, 
the bird is properly cooked; if it is still tight, con- 
tinue the boiling. When the turkey is done, take it 
up and let it cool a little while the broth is strained 
through a clean towel laid double in a colander. From 
this broth the aspic jelly is made. For each quart of 
the broth soften two ounces of gelatine in cold water; 
put it into a thick saucepan with the white and shell 
of one raw egg and a quart of broth; stir the broth 
over the fire until the gelatine is dissolved, then let it 
boil until it looks perfectly clear under the scum of 
egg which will rise to the surface; when it is clear, 
strain it through a clean towel folded in a colander, 
letting it run through the towel without squeezing or 
stirring; to each quart add a glass of sherry or Ma- 
deira, and see that it is palatably seasoned. The aspic 
jelly can be colored in several shades by caramel made 
hj dissolving burned sugar in boiling water, and cooled 
from one to two inches thick in shallow dishes; when 
cold, it can be cut in fanciful shapes, and used to gar- 
nish the galantine. 

When the boned turkey is cool enough to be han- 
dled, untie the tapes and unroll it; quickly rinse the 
cloth first in hot and then in cold water, again roll up 
the bird and tie it, lay it between two platters with a 
heavy weight on the upper one, and allow it to re- 
main until quite cold. Then it can be unrolled, the 
strings used to sew it removed without tearing the 
flesh, and the galantine will be ready to garnish with 
the cold aspic jelly. 

Although the operation of boning may seem com- 



SOME POULTRY FOR LUNCHEON. 241 

plicated, many of our culinary followers have succeeded 
in accomplishing it under these directions. If these 
do not seem sufficient, further details can be found in 
other of the author's works. 

Many cookery-books give directions, under the title 
of boned turkey or chicken, for boiling poultry, remov- 
ing the bones, pressing it in a mould, and pouring some 
thickened broth over it; but this dish, although good 
when well made, has no claim to the title of boned 
poultry, or galantine. 

As to the reduction of cost, less expensive material 
can be chosen, the shoulder of mutton for instance; 
the force-meat may be of sausage meat, or any sa- 
vory dressing of cold meat chopped, mixed with bread, 
and highly seasoned. The wine may be omitted if the 
dish is not to be kept very long, but the eggs are 
needed to keep the force-meat intact when it is cut. 
The boned mutton may be boiled like the turkey, and 
jelly made from the broth, or it may be baked and 
served hot; if it is baked, the cloth is not needed to 
preserve its form. 

Other birds and small game animals may be boned, 
and either boiled or baked. The boiling gives the 
meat jelly, which so greatly adds to the appearance 
and flavor of the dish. 

The best turkey for boning is a short, plump, hen 
turkey a year old; a tenderer, younger bird would be 
torn in boning or sewing. Boned quail are delicious 
roasted or baked, as is a boned chicken stuffed with 
a chestnut force-meat. Any of these galantines are 
admirable dishes for luncheons, receptions, and social 
occasions where cold dishes are most suitable, and 
the prettiest effects can be accomplished by garnishing 
with several shades of aspic jelly. 
16 



242 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 

Among the luxuries to whicli our plan of living will 
permit access is green turtle; altliougli diamond-back 
terrapin can hardly be hoped for unless in the imme- 
diate vicinity of its own happy hunting-grounds, there 
are several of its congeners that may be classed among 
our proper fare. Green turtle is seldom seen upon pri- 
vate tables, because of the formidable size of this game 
of the sea; but it has been suggested that several friends 
divide a turtle, or a good-natured dealer might arrange 
to dress one and share it among several customers. As 
this operation of dressing a turtle is seldom undertaken 
except by chefs or caterers, it may be well to give it in 
detail. Green turtles weigh from fifty pounds upward, 
those below fifty being known as "chicken turtle;" a 
good size is from eighty to a hundred pounds, but they 
weigh as much as five and six hundred. When the 
question is one of the preparation of soup alone, a fifty- 
pound turtle is allowed for the service of fifty covers; 
but the various portions of the carcass are suitable for 
different dishes, the white flesh being the tenderest, 
and the green fat the greatest delicacy. 

To kill a turtle, either secure it on its back with its 
neck over a tub, or hang it up by a stout rope attached 
to the hind-flippers, and tie the fore-flippers to prevent 
struggling; cut off the head, and let it bleed all night. 
The next morning it must be dressed. This operation 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 243 

requires so miicli care that its description must needs 
be given in detail in order to be intelligible. 

First lay the turtle on its back on a large dish, or an 
inclined board which will conduct the blood and water 
into some receptacle, to be saved for the soup stock; 
run a thin sharp knife-blade inside the under shell until 
all the skin and flesh is cut through, but do not allow 
it to penetrate to the intestines; when the edges of the 
shell are loose, lift it as far as possible, and cut the 
muscles which hold it to the body; lay the shell in a 
large tub of cold water. The under shell is called the 
calipee, the upper shell the calipash; both are used in 
the cooking of the turtle. After the calipee has been 
removed, cut off the fins and the cushions of flesh at- 
tached to them, and put them into another tub of cold 
water; the deposit of dark, bluish-green fat which lies 
near the sockets of the fins, and about some portions 
of the intestines, should be cut in rather small, regular 
pieces, and put into a separate vessel of cold water, to 
be equally divided with the flesh of the turtle. 

The gall lies deeply embedded in one side of the 
liver; in cutting it out a quarter-inch part of the liver 
should be left around it to obviate the danger of 
breaking, because its bitter liquid destroys the flavor 
of every particle it touches; once it is cut out it should 
be thrown away; the other intestines must be care- 
fully removed without allowing their contents to reach 
the flesh; when they are empty — as they are when the 
turtle has not been recently fed — they are esteemed 
for use in the soup; when they are designed for this 
they are to be split open, or reversed like a glove fin- 
ger, soaked in plenty of cold water, scraped with the 
back of a knife, and repeatedly washed in cold salted 
water, then scalded, and subsequently boiled tender in 



244 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the soup stock, and cut in half-incli lengths for thick 
turtle soup; the heart, kidneys, and liver are to be laid 
in plenty of cold water until they are boiled in the 
soup stock; the green fat and the eggs, vi^hich are em- 
bedded with the intestines, are to be removed carefully 
and laid in separate vessels of cold water for subse- 
quent boiling in the soup stock; after parboiling, the 
outer membrane of the eggs is to be stripped off, and 
the eggs kept in water or in a Avet cloth ready for ser- 
vice in the soup. The white meat of a young turtle 
is sometimes tender enough to fry or broil without 
parboiling; but the dark meat should always be boiled 
tender before it is dressed in any special dish; all parts 
of the turtle, after thorough cleansing, are to be boiled 
in salted water with whole spices and sweet herbs, 
each portion being taken up when sufficiently cooked, 
and covered with a wet cloth until wanted for the final 
dressing; the green fat, which should be enclosed in a 
thin cloth to keep it unbroken, will boil in half an hour, 
the white meat in an hour, and the dark meat in from 
two to three hours. 

The shell, after washing, should be sawed in pieces 
three or four inches square, and scalded until the outer 
layer can be removed; then it is to be boiled for six 
hours in the soup stock; the portions that soften dur- 
ing boiling are to be cut in half -inch sections for use 
in the soup, where they are sometimes supposed by the 
unsophisticated to be green fat. Like the flesh, the 
cooked shell is to be kept moist by wrapping it in wet 
cloth. A lifty-pound turtle should produce about five 
gallons of rich soup stock. In addition to the turtle 
flesh and shells, the following ingredients are boiled 
in the stock, and when it is done it is strained, like or- 
dinary stock, through a clean folded towel laid in a 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 



245 



colander: half a pound of onions peeled, sliced, and 
browned in one pound of butter, one pound of raw 
ham cut in small pieces, two w^hole carrots and tur- 
nips, celery leaves or root, one teaspoonful each of 
whole cloves, allspice, peppercorns, mace, and a bou- 
quet of herbs, and the blood of the turtle. 

Beef or veal bones, or calf's-head, are sometimes 
boiled in the stock. Green-turtle clear soup is made 
by clarifying the stock; the white and shell of an egg 
mixed with a tablespoonf ul of cold water is boiled with 
a quart of the stock until the soup is clear under the 
egg scum; the juice of a lemon and a glass of Madeira 
are put into a hot tureen with a fair proportion of the 
turtle eggs, green fat, or boiled shell ; the soup is prop- 
erly seasoned, and served very hot. 

Green-turtle thick soup is made by browning to- 
gether for each quart of stock a tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, constantly stirring them; when they 
are smooth and w^ell colored, but not burned, gradu- 
ally stir in a quart of the turtle stock, a palatable sea- 
soning of salt and cayenne; the usual addition of eggs, 
green fat, lemon, and wine are made ; and with the 
thick soup some portions of the turtle flesh, and a f ev/ 
force-meat balls or quenelles. In the absence of eggs, 
egg balls are used. The quenelles are made of half a 
cupful of the white meat of the turtle or of chicken 
chopped fine and then rubbed through a sieve with a 
wooden spoon or a potato-masher; the yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs are also rubbed through the sieve; 
these ingredients are mixed with a high seasoning of 
salt and cayenne, the yolks of one or two raw eggs, 
and flour enough to permit the rolling of little balls of 
the force-meat in the palms of the hands, or shape it 
as quenelles by pressing it in ovals between tTvo tea- 



246 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

spoons dipped in cold water; poach the quenelles until 
they float in salted boiling water, and then use them 
for soup, or fry them for addition to other dishes for 
turtle for which recipes follow. 

After the turtle flesh is boiled tender it can be made 
into the most savory dishes known to the epicure. Of 
course, in this series it can claim place only when a 
turtle is treated on the co-operative plan, a number of 
persons paying a ^proportionate price for the part of 
the carcass they receive, as has already been proj^osed. 
In England it has always remained the food of the 
rich since it was first brought from her West Indian 
Islands: Dr. Kitchiner reverently styles it ''the far- 
fetched and dear-bought turtle," and Mrs. Glasse de- 
votes pages to its consideration. She says, by the way, 
that in the Indies, in her time, the fins were soused and 
eaten cold. Here is a hint for the canned goods manu- 
facturers; indeed, they might put green turtle upon 
the market Avith profit to themselves and advantage to 
the great mass of the buyers of their products. 

In Mrs. Glasse's method the calipee was baked with 
butter, spice, and sweet herbs; the lights, heart, and 
liver stewed with broth and Madeira thickened with 
flour and highly seasoned; the calipash was boiled or 
baked in broth entire, and then used to contain a thick 
brown stew of the turtle flesh; the fins were stewed 
with thickened broth and wine; the entire service con- 
sisting of the soup in the centre of the table, the fins 
and liver at the sides, and the calipash and calipee at 
the top and foot. A Carleton House turtle stew was 
made early in the present century by stewing the fins 
in a thick sauce of broth and port-wine, with mush- 
rooms or button onions. So far beyond the reach of 
ordinary mortals was the dish considered that but few 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 



247 



of the early cookery-books contained any more than a 
hint of it in the form of recipes for dressing mock tur- 
tle, which recalls the good story that Colonel De Yoe 
tells of the speechless astonishment of the fish-dealer 
when one of his newly-rich customers ordered turtle, 
and marked emphasis by *' and it won't do for you to 
try to put off any of your confounded mock turtles on 
to me !" 

Turtle steaks are cut half an inch thick from the 
white meat, dipped in melted butter seasoned with salt 
and cayenne, and broiled in a double-wire gridiron, at 
a moderate and clear fire, for about seven minutes on 
each side. They should be served on a hot dish with 
currant jelly. When turtle flesh is not very tender, 
roll the steaks in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, 
brown them quickly in enough butter to prevent burn- 
ing, then cover them with any cold broth or gravy, or, 
in default of either, with boiling water; stew them 
gently until they are tender; add a glass of Madeira 
and the juice of half a lemon to each pint of turtle and 
gravy, and serve the dish hot. Tender, uncooked tur- 
tle steaks, or those which have been parboiled, may be 
breaded and fried in just enough butter to prevent 
burning; take them up on brown paper when they are 
done, and keej) them hot. In the pan put half a pint 
each of cream and tomato catsup; boil the sauce while 
the turtle is being laid on a hot dish with a garnish of 
sliced lemon, and then send it to the table with the 
sauce in a bowl. Tartar sauce is excellent with fried 
turtle steaks. It is made by adding a teaspoonful of 
grated onion, and a tablespoonful each of chopped 
parsley, capers, and pickles to half a pint of mayon- 
naise. 

The most savory of all turtle dishes is a ragoilt, or 



248 FAMILY LIVING ON 1500 A YEAR 

brown stew, of small j^ieces of the flesh, and gelatinous 
shell, with a garnish of turtle eggs or egg balls, que- 
nelles, and the priceless green fat, all these having been 
boiled as directed in the recipe for turtle-soup stock. 
For each pint of these ingredients put over the fire in 
a thick saucepan a heaping tablespoonful of butter, an 
even tablespoonful of flour, a saltspoonful of grated 
onion, and stir them until they brown; then gradually 
stir in suflicient broth or turtle stock to make a good 
gravy, put in the turtle, a gill of Madeira, a few mush- 
rooms if they are available, and season the whole highly 
with salt and cayenne, and lightly with mace; add a 
bouquet of sweet herbs, cover the saucepan, and let 
the stew cook very slowly until the turtle flesh is ten- 
der; more wine may be added in dishing it if it is de- 
sired, and the strained juice of a lemon. There is no 
question of the fact that this is a most extravagant 
dish; it cannot be properly cast within our limits, but 
under the given conditions its service is possible. 

On the other hand, calf's-head can be cooked so as 
to closely resemble turtle, and at a moderate cost; it 
comes into some markets properly cleaned, the hair 
being removed, and the skin of the head looking fresh 
and white; it is not right to skin the head, because 
that operation destroys the best portion; and the 
tongue and brains should be saved, the latter to be 
used instead of turtle or chicken meat for making 
quenelles or force-meat balls; Qgg balls, of course, are 
required to replace the turtle eggs. The flesh and skin 
of the head are to be cut off in large pieces and laid in 
cold, salted water; the tongue and brains removed and 
also put into water; the bones of the head are to be bro- 
ken and thoroughly washed, and then put over the fire 
in plenty of cold water to boil ; add a bouquet of herbs, 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 249 

a whole carrot and turnip peeled, an onion peeled and 
stuck with a dozen cloves, a red pepper or a teaspoon- 
ful of peppercorns; when the water boils salt it, put 
in the head and tongue, and boil them until they are 
tender, when they are to be taken up, wrapped in cloths 
wet in cold water, and kept in a cool place until re- 
quired for the various dishes for which recipes are 
given on other pages. The bones are to be boiled at 
least five hours, and the stock then strained. The stock 
and head may subsequently be dressed according to the 
recipes given for green turtle, except that no clear soup 
is made. 

A most savory dish is a mince made of boiled calf 's- 
head, seasoned with a chopped green pepper or a small 
mango, a little tomato or walnut catsup, and moistened 
w^ith a brown gravy made from the stock ; this may be 
served on toast or in small patties. Some of the head 
broiled and dressed with salt, pepper, and butter, or 
garnished with fried oysters, is excellent. A portion 
of it may be rolled in flour seasoned with salt and 
cayenne, and fried. A delicious pie can be made of 
the head, together with egg balls, quenelles, and a few 
mushrooms in season, or some fried oysters; the pas- 
try should be very light and tender, and extra gravy 
poured into the pie after it is baked ; a glass of wine 
and a little lemon juice adds much to the flavor of the 
gravy, which should be brown. 

Of the many varieties of terrapin abundant in some 
sections of the United States, notably in the South, 
the best known are the diamond-back terrapin of the 
Chesapeake, the Egg Harbor from the Delaware River, 
the Carolina gopher or land terrapin, the wood tortoise, 
land terrapin, and snapper of the Western and Middle 
States, and the small fresh-water or " red-leg " terrapin. 



250 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Like the California canvas-hack, the terrapin from that 
land of sunshine are large and fine. Diamond-hack 
terrapin have a sharply defined series of elevated 
points down the middle of the upper shell, long, nar- 
row heads, and the well-known diamond-shaped sec- 
tions on the back. In the New York markets terrapin 
are classed as " counts " and " bulls." The former are 
from six inches in length upward on the under shell, 
their flavor is fine, and they contain the much-prized 
eggs. Twelve "counts" are sold as a dozen; the 
smaller male terrapin, or "bulls," are sold by the hun- 
dred if quite small and inferior, or by the dozen, 
eighteen of those less than six inches long being count- 
ed as a dozen; of terrapin less than five inches long 
twenty-four are allowed to the dozen, and under that 
length from forty-eight to sixty, according to size. 
Terrapin are best in the autumn, when they are the 
fattest, and if kept in their native mud or in the tanks 
at the terrapin farms, they remain in good condition 
all Avinter. 

All kinds of terrapin are cleaned and cooked in the 
same way up to the point of removal from the shell, 
and all make savory dishes if boiled gently until the 
flesh is tender, but the diamond-back of the Eastern 
Shore is undoubtedly the finest, especially if prepared 
by an old-fashioned negro cook. Like lobsters, terra- 
pin should be alive before cooking. It is well to put 
them for an hour or longer in a large tub of clean, cool 
water; then wash the shells, and plunge the terrapin 
head first into a large pot of boiling salted water, and 
let them boil for ten minutes, or until the thin outer 
skin of the legs can be loosened and rubbed off with a 
wet cloth; the thick semi-gelatinous under skin is con- 
sidered a " tidbit " ; no particle of it should be lost. In 



GREEN TUETLE AND TERRAPIN. 251 

putting the terrapin into the cold and the boiling water, 
grasp them from the tail end to avoid a bite; so pug- 
nacious are some of the species that the Chinese cooks, 
with whom terrapin is a prime delicacy, provoke them 
to bite at a stick, and while the terrapin hold it in 
their bills they are quickly decapitated before they are 
cooked. The flesh may be somewhat whiter under this 
treatment, but all the blood should be saved to cook 
with the terrapin. After the terrapin are scalded, and 
the outer skin of the legs has been rubbed off, put them 
again over the fire in enough clean boiling water to 
cover them, with a teaspoonful of salt to each quart of 
Avater, and boil them slowly and steadily until the ser- 
rated edges at the sides where the upper and under 
shells are joined begin to separate. The length of 
time required for boiling will depend upon the condi- 
tion of the terrapin ; California terrapin, which are 
very tender and gelatinous, have been boiled in fifteen 
minutes, but ordinarily the time varies from a half- 
hour to an hour. As the entire operation of dressing 
terrapin demands exact care, plenty of time should be 
allowed; an expert may accomplish it in about two 
hours, but the novice will do well to boil the terrapin 
and remove it from the shell the day before it is in- 
tended to serve it. After the shells of terrapin can 
be loosened at the sides, part them there, then lift off 
the upper shell, cutting the bands of flesh which hold 
it in place upon the backbone; take off' the under shell, 
which is held by the ligaments of the legs; then care- 
fully cut the bands of flesh which cross from the legs 
over the intestines, cut off the nails at the extremities 
of the claws, and lay the legs on a dish; the head is to 
be thrown away. The entrails are now exposed. The 
eggs are to he carefully separated w^ithout breaking 



252 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the slight membrane which encloses the yolk of which 
they are composed, and laid in cold water; subsequent- 
ly they are to be boiled in salted boiling water for 
five minutes, and again put into cold water until they 
are required, the thin membrane covering them being 
stripped off before they are used. 

The liver, which is proportionately very large, 
should be separated from the entrails with the great- 
est care, to avoid breaking the dark-green gall-bag 
that lies partly embedded in one side: if the gall-bag 
is cut or broken, its intensely bitter fluid will impart 
its flavor to everj^thing it touches; therefore in cut- 
ting it out the liver should be held over a dish, and 
the i^art nearest the gall-bag cut oat with it. Some 
of the old negro terrapin cooks carefully mingled two 
or three drops of the gall with the sauce prepared for 
each large terrapin, but the experiment should not be 
tried by any one unaccustomed to it. The negro 
cooks also used the intestines of terrapin when they 
found them empty, rejecting the lower end for a couple 
of inches, and cutting the white upper portions in half- 
inch lengths. The bluish-green fat which lies about 
the sockets of the legs of terrapin in good condition 
is to be most carefully saved, and equally distributed 
in serving the terrapin, for it is the most coveted part. 
The sandbag, which is a soft, spongy organ of a dark 
liver color, lying among the intestines, near the back, 
should be rejected. 

The second water in which the terrapin are boiled 
should be saved to use for the sauce, or the shells may 
be put into it, with the regulation soup vegetables, and 
slowly boiled for five or six hours, or until some por- 
tions of them become soft and semi-gelatinous; these 
parts are cut small and added to the stock after it 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 253 

is strained and clarified, together with some egg balls. 
The soup thus made and palatably seasoned is very 
delicate and excellent for invalids. Egg balls are made 
by adding to the yolk of a hard-boiled egg which has 
been rubbed through a sieve a raw yolk, a teaspoon- 
f ul of good salad-oil, a palatable seasoning of salt, and 
enough flour to permit the compound to be made up 
into little balls by rolling between the palms of the 
hands; they are to be boiled in boiling salted water 
until they float, then skimmed out, and laid on a clean 
dry towel until needed. 

To stew wood terrapin in the old Virginia style boil 
it and remove it from the shell, as directed above; 
to each pint of the dressed terrapin add the ingredi- 
ents specified below, and stew all together gently for 
twenty minutes: the yolks of eight hard-boiled eggs 
rubbed through a sieve with a potato-masher, half a 
pint of cream, a quarter of a pound of butter, a table- 
spoonful of dry flour, and a gill or two of Madeira; 
season the terrapin palatably with salt and pepper, 
stew it gently, and serve it hot. Gophers are cooked 
in South Carolina by first dressing them according to 
the above directions; for each large gopher alloAV a 
quarter of a pound of butter; in this fry a level tea- 
spoonful of grated onion, then stir in a tablespoonful 
of flour, half a pint of Madeira or sherry, the gopher 
meat, and a high seasoning of. Cayenne pepper, salt, 
and powdered mace; as soon as the gopher is tender, 
serve it hot. To stew red-leg terrapin dress them as 
already directed, and boil the flesh gently until it is 
tender in enough water to cover it ; then to each pint 
of meat add the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs rubbed 
smoothly with half a pound of butter, half a pint of 
good cream, and a palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 



254 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

per; stew all these ingredients together for about fif- 
teen minutes, and then serve them hot. To dress ter- 
rapin after an Eastern Shore recipe, have it properly 
boiled and taken from the shell; to each pint of the 
meat allow a heaping tablespoonful of dry flour 
rubbed smoothly with half a pound of butter, half a 
pint each of cream and sherry, and a gill of brandy; 
stew the terrapin for five minutes with these ingre- 
dients and a rather high seasoning of salt and cayenne, 
and serve it very hot. 

In the preceding recipes wine has been called for, 
and it is generally believed to be inseparable from the 
cooking of terrapin; but a recipe was some time ago 
received from a prominent Baltimore lady of rigid 
temperance principles, which substitutes currant jelly 
for the wine; and the fact remains that the most deli- 
cious terrapin ever eaten by the author was prepared 
in that city without wine, by a negro cook, old Madeira 
being placed upon the table with the stewed terrapin. 
The suggestion is made that all the blood of the ter- 
rapin be saved in dressing it, and put into a saucepan 
with a brown roux made by stirring a tablespoonful 
of flour into two of butter until they begin to brown; 
then stir in the terrapin blood, and the yolks of four 
hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth with half the livers 
and green fat of the terrapin ; put in the terrapin meat 
and eggs, and a high seasoning of salt and cayenne, as 
much grated nutmeg as will rest upon the point of a 
small penknife blade, and as much cream as is needed 
to make the sauce of the proper consistency. With 
the utmost care mix two drojys only of the terrapin gall 
with the yolks of two raw eggs, beating them until 
they are quite smooth ; when the terrapin is tender, 
set the saucepan containing it off the fire, stir in the 



GREEN TURTLE AND TERRAPIN. 



255 



raw egg smoothly, then a tablespoonf iil of lemon juice, 
and serve the terraj^in hot. To use the terrapin gall 
successfully one needs nerve and precision; for the 
least excess would ruin one of the best dishes ever de- 
vised. 

It is an axiom with terrapin lovers that only good 
old Madeira should be drank with it. Mrs. S. S.Ward's 
famous old Washington recipe for terrapin adds a tea- 
spoonful of mixed mustard, a tablespoonful of brandy, 
and half a pint of sherry to the usual terrapin stew. 
Another, which was served in the old Washinofton 
days to Webster, Clay, and their intellectual and gas- 
tronomical compeers, has come to us direct from this 
grande dame of the old school, whose own hands gave 
the magical final touches to this perfect compound. 
For each pint of terrapin meat a saltspoonful of grated 
onion was fried in a saucepan with a quarter of a pound 
of butter, while half the terrapin liver was rubbed 
smooth with the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, a 
heaping teaspoonful of corn-starch, and another quarter 
of a pound of butter; this paste was added to the 
onion and butter, together with the meat of one large 
terrapin, half a pint of cream, a teaspoonful of Soy, 
and a palatable seasoning of salt. The terrapin was 
stirred constantly until it began to boil, then half a 
pint of sherry was added to it, and it was immediately 
sent to the table in a hot chafing-dish — a dish fit for 
the gods. Mere ordinary mortals may be content to 
brown their dressed terrapin in butter over a hot fire, 
to dust a tablespoonful of flour over a pint of it, and 
then pour in the terrapin blood and enough boiling 
water to make a proper sauce; this should be highly 
seasoned with salt and cayenne, and gently boiled for 
five minutes; then take the saucepan from the fire, stir 



256 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

in the yolks of tv/o raw eggs beaten smoothly with a 
tablespoonful of lemon juice, or half a cupful of cream, 
and eat and be thankful for the dish, even without 
Madeira. 

The imitation of terrapin based upon calf's-head is 
not difficult of preparation; the head, as sold in the 
New York market, is already scalded and scraped free 
from hair, like the feet prepared for jelly. A note of 
the method may be useful to some of our readers, be- 
cause in many towns in the West the butchers remove 
the skin in dressing the head, thus destroying the most 
desirable part of it. The head should be dipped in 
cold water after it is cut from the carcass, then taken 
out and thoroughly rubbed with powdered resin; next 
it should be plunged into scalding hot water for two 
or three minutes; this will generally loosen the hairs 
so that they can be scraped off without marring the 
skin; the scalding and scraping can be repeated if 
necessary. After the skin is clean, the head should 
be soaked overnight in plenty of cold salted water to 
extract the blood. When dressed, the skin should 
look white and clean, free from hair and cuts, and be 
without any trace of unpleasant odor. A stale calf's- 
head would not only be disagreeable to manipulate, 
but positively dangerous, because it might occasion 
blood-poisoning, if there was any cut or abrasion upon 
the hands. After a calf's-head is thoroughly cleaned, 
remove the skin and flesh together, cutting close to 
the bone with a sharp, thin-bladed knife; take out the 
tongue without tearing or cutting it, and remove the 
brains entire from a cut in the top of the head, laying 
both tongue and brains in cold salted water. The 
bones well boiled form the basis of soup or jelly, and 
the flesh can be variously dressed. 



GREEN TUETLE AND TERRAPIN. 257 

To imitate terrapin with calf's-head, boil the skin, 
removed from the bones as directed above, in enough 
water to cover it, until it is tender; take it up then 
and strain the broth; while it is being boiled, make 
some egg balls; cut the skin in pieces about an inch 
square, and for each pint bowlful so prepared make a 
sauce as follows: brown together in a saucepan over 
the fire a tablespoonful each of butter and flour, then 
gradually stir in enough of the broth to make a good 
sauce; season it palatably with salt and pepper, put 
in the head and heat it, and the egg balls, and then 
take the saucepan from the fire, stir in the yolks of 
two raw eggs, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of 
sherry or Madeira, and serve the dish at once. The 
unused portion of the head may be kept in a wet cloth 
in a cold place, or in a bowl with the broth poured 
over it, until it is needed for other dishes. 
17 



258 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 

Although the greater portion of this work is in- 
tended for the guidance of the mistress of the house- 
hold, and is by her to be imparted to her help as suits 
the exigencies of occasions, certain points may be 
touched upon which concern the servant as an individ- 
ual. They may be repeated to her in so far as they 
seem to apply, or the entire matter may be given her 
to read. First in importance is personal neatness; 
while it is happily the fact that the type of hel]) which 
certain English novelists depict as the "slavey," or 
general house-servant, is utterly unknown in America, 
the girl who does general house-work is sometimes not 
only untrained in the performance of her duties, but 
quite unused to the appliances j)laced in her hands 
and the methods of work she is expected to follow. 
Besides, in very crowded quarters, and under careless 
habits of living, she may have become indifferent to 
the sanitary routine of cleanliness which becomes sec- 
ond nature, or is totally neglected, according to one's 
surroundings. Therefore, the first care of the mistress 
should be to provide j^i'oper toilet appliances, and 
see that at all seasons the temperature of the servant's 
sleeping - room permits their free use. It is sim- 
ply absurd to say that such consideration would be 
wasted; even a child can be made to understand that 
untidy habits are intolerable; no mistress need be 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 259 

obliored to have a slattern about her while the waters 
flow. 

It is more difficult for a general house-worker to be 
always tidy than for waitresses and up-stairs servants, 
but it is by no means impossible. Much dej^ends upon 
the management of the work; when one person has it 
all to do the worst of it can be massed into one part 
of the day; for instance: except in the winter, when 
fuel has to be replenished all day long, the dirtiest 
part of the work could be done early in the morning, 
before the family are up, an old wrapper being worn, 
or the dress protected by a very large apron, and the 
hair shielded from dust by a cap or handkerchief; the 
handkerchief can easily be twisted into a turban to en- 
tirely cover the hair; or a large, loose cap made from 
a circle of thin cloth with a drawing-string run in 
about two inches from the edge, all around, thus form- 
ing a frill which effectually protects the short hair 
upon the neck and forehead. Such a cap can be put 
on over neatly-dressed hair without disarranging it, 
just as a large apron or wrapper can be worn over the 
clean gown it is desirable to shield. 

A young housewife who believes in seeing that 
everything is always right in the kitchen has such 
loose wrappers, which she slips on over her gowns even 
after she is dressed for dinner, when she goes to the 
kitchen for her final inspection; two or three minutes 
is time enough for her to throw off one in her room, 
and she reaches the dining-room as soon as the dinner, 
and in equally acceptable condition. The early morn- 
ing work might include the sifting of the cinders, the 
trimming of lamps, cleaning of shoes, scouring of any 
unused utensil or of knives, tins, coppers, or brasses, 
although the knives and utensils in general use can 



260 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

always be scoured Avhen they are washed if any of the 
numerous white scouring-soaps are used, which are now 
sold as cheaply as common soap; copper saucepans, for 
instance, which many housekeepers think difficult to 
keep clean, can be kept shining if they are filled with 
warm water after they are used, and then rubbed dur- 
ing the washing with a cloth well covered with white 
scouring-soap. 

Knives with steel blades can be kept sharp as well 
as bright by rubbing them upon a board covered with 
emery cloth, or thinly dusted with pow^dered Bath- 
brick; if a brick is used, rub it several times np and 
down over the board until enough remains there to 
scour the knives; this is easier than rubbing the blades 
with cloth or potato dipped in the dust. If the blades 
are drawn the right way, the edges can be kept quite 
sharp, as well as bright. 

It is the scouring operations and the preparation of 
certain vegetables which so often stain the hands; a 
little care will greatly modify this unsightliness; very 
often in peeling vegetables the blade of the knife is 
allowed to come in contact with the forefinger; if the 
knife is held by the handle the vegetable juice upon 
the blade is less likely to stain the hand; if it is washed 
off directly the vegetables are pared, and especially if 
they are held under water while being peeled, the stain 
will be less. Certain acids act chemically upon the 
stain made by the contact of vegetables with the steel 
knife-blade; acetic acid or strong vinegar, a lemon, or 
a tomato cut and rubbed on the hands, will remove 
much of the stain. A piece of pumice-stone should 
be kept in the soap-dish, as well as a small brush; bo- 
rax, which is very cheap, is as effectual as washing- 
soda in removing grease from dishes and saucepans, 
while it keeps the hands in good condition. 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 



261 



There is no reason why this ordinary care should 
not be given for appearance sake (especially if the 
general servant attends the door and table), and a dish 
of oatmeal or cornmeal or fine sand, or a piece of 
white Castile soap, kept ready for use; five cents' 
worth of any of these things would last a month. 

If a little borax is put into the water used for wash- 
ing dishes, both dishes and hands will be the better 
for it. A cloth or soft brush should be used for wash- 
ing potatoes, beets, or any root which is to be cooked 
without peeling. The pods or shells of green pease 
should be washed before shelling them, and the hands; 
then the flavor of the pease need not be impaired by 
subsequent washing before they are cooked. Toma- 
toes which are to be served raw should either be 
washed and carefully wiped before they are sliced, or 
they should be thrown for a moment into scalding-hot 
water, and then the skin can easily be strij^ped off. 

When the constant wetting of the hands roughens 
them, and even makes them chap, as in winter, the pain 
and unsightliness can be overcome by rubbing them 
every night with mutton tallow. The surplus fat of 
mutton, melted by gentle heat and cooled in a small 
cup or mould, has unequalled healing properties. 
These points are far from trivial; there is no reason 
why the pains of work should not be overcome as well 
as its difficulties. 

This brings up the question of labor-saving devices. 
There are many mechanical contrivances of this kind, 
which are very helpful in households where service is 
scant. But while of great use in intelligent hands, 
they often come to grief for lack of understanding. 
Housekeepers should always be sure that such things 
are well enough understood by help to save them from 



262 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

destruction. As a rule the general house-servant is 
young, and whether she comes from some rural neigh- 
boring locality, from some small village or farm in an- 
other country, or from the tenement district of a city, 
the chances are that the methods and utensils of work 
in a house with the so-called modern improvements 
may at first confuse and even impede her. Even girls 
brought up in prosperous workingmen's families do 
not have at home the same things to work with that 
are common in private establishments where the 
least -elaborate labor-saving utensils are part of the 
outfit. 

Be it repeated, that all mechanical devices should 
be made clear to the help, or else their use forbidden. 
Then the daily or special use of the ordinary utensils, 
dishes, and general house-fittings should be explained; 
then the fact made clear that such articles as brooms, 
dusters, towels, etc., are expected to last a certain time, 
and not to disappear inopportunely. The fact should 
be emphasized that broken dishes or glasses must not 
be concealed, but spoken of at once; and in the outset 
a clear understanding should be had that undue break- 
age from carelessness must be replaced by the party 
causing it. If the servant is inexperienced, the mis- 
tress should explain that pouring very hot food or 
liquid into glass or delicate china is likely to crack 
it; that putting dishes in the oven checks the glaze 
and discolors them; that a piece may be wiped out of 
a thin tumbler, or the stem of a goblet or wineglass 
snapped by the rough or careless use of a coarse, wet 
towel; that using fine knives near the fire, for frying, 
destroys their temper; that to leave a tea-kettle or 
saucepan empty on the stove is to ruin it. In fine, the 
list of things by which an intelligent housekeeper can 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. . £63 

shield her uninformed assistant from disaster is lim- 
ited only by her own experience. That it is not worth 
while to try to teach a girl such things is an idea to 
be scouted by all but pessimists; and a pessimist never 
can be a success as a housekeeper or homemaker. 

More words from the help's standpoint. We have 
considered some small matters of personal cleanliness 
and of carefulness in the use of utensils, assuming 
that an ordinarily intelligent and kindly disposed 
girl is willing to give her best service in return for 
her wages. I^ow let us take the question of keeping 
the kitchen in such order that it can be entered at any 
time with satisfaction. First, in regard to cleanliness 
and light: these are the indispensable conditions of 
success and comfort in the kitchen, the first depend- 
ing upon the second to a much greater extent than is 
generally supposed. If a girl is harassed by insuffi- 
cient appliances, inconvenient and restricted surround- 
ings, she cannot do herself the justice of performing 
her task in the most perfect way. 

When there is necessity for curtailing outfit ex- 
penses, the first articles bought should be those re- 
quired for every-day use, of plain and substantial pat- 
tern. Fancy housekeeping articles and patent con- 
trivances may be left until there is a surplus with 
which to purchase them. Space does not here permit 
a list of such things, but the inexperienced buyer can 
easily take the advice of some careful and economical 
housekeeper, or of a conscientious servant — rarely of 
a dealer, who will necessarily recommend what he has 
in stock. 

New dishes, glass, and cutlery need thorough w^ash- 
ing. If all new crockery is put over the stove in a 
large boiler full of cold water, and heated to the boil- 



264 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

ing-point and then allowed to cool in the water, it will 
not be so likely to break or check subsequently from 
heat. A wooden tub is better for washing delicate 
china and glass than a metal pan, but it should be 
scalded with clean boiling water after it is used, and 
thoroughly aired. All dish-cloths and tQwels should 
be scalded every day, and dried in the sun if possible, 
but at all events in the open air. Table-linen does 
not need to be boiled every time it is washed, but it 
should be scalded; a little borax dissolved in the wash 
water will thoroughly cleanse the cloth without in- 

Borax, ammonia, or a little washing-soda, dissolved in 
the hot water used for washing silver, will keep it look- 
ing bright, especially if after it is wiped it is rubbed 
with soft chamois. The polish imparted by scour- 
ing powders and soaps is really a removal by friction 
of a minute surface of the silver or electro-plate, while 
the soda or ammonia are cleansing agents. The cham- 
ois can be washed as often as necessary in warm 
water in which enough soap is dissolved to make a 
lather; rub the chamois well in this water, applying 
more soap to discolored portions, then rinse it through 
several waters, lukewarm, and hang it to dry without 
wringing it. Several times, while it is drying, shake 
it and stretch it by pulling, until it is soft and pliable. 

New metal utensils should be put over the fire, with 
a little washing-soda dissolved in the water with which 
they are filled, and thoroughly scalded before they are 
used the first time for cooking. If they are always 
filled with water and set where it will keep warm, 
directly after they are used, they can be cleaned readi- 
ly when they are washed. A little powdered brick 
dust or ashes, sifted very fine, or some scouring-soap 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 265 

upon the dish-cloth, will clean them as part of the 
operation of washing them. If salt and vinegar are 
used in scouring coppers they will tarnish again 
quickly; they should be carefully washed off if they 
are used, to prevent the formation of verdigris. Uten- 
sils which have become discolored by lack of use, or 
coated with any substance from carelessness, can be 
easily scoured if they are first boiled for a few moments 
in plenty of water containing washing-soda. The 
network of iron or steel links which is sold for clean- 
ing kettles is useful where there is no tin or porcelain 
lining; it will rub off the coating of rust on iron 
pots, and burnish the surface which has been rough- 
ened by the action of the rust, but will destroy the 
thin tin or porcelain surfaces. 

A lump of soda laid upon the drain down which 
waste water passes will prevent the clogging of the 
pipe with grease, especially if the pipe is flooded every 
day with boiling water. All sinks and drains can be 
kept in a perfectly sanatory condition if they are 
flushed two or three times a week with scalding-hot 
copperas water. This is made by putting several 
pounds of copperas in a barrel or tub, and keeping it 
filled with water ; a pound and a half of copperas will 
form a saturated solution with a gallon of water. 
There should always be some undissolved copperas in 
the bottom; the water can easily be heated before it is 
used. As the copperas water is an odorless disinfec- 
tant, servants are generally willing to use it for their 
own sake when it is provided; it is quite inexpensive. 

The abundance of light in a kitchen is second in 
importance to air only. If the kitchen is in the base- 
ment, light-colored or white walls reflect the light; if 
the stove is set in a dark corner, and is movable, it 



266 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

should be brought to the light, even at the expense of 
extra pipe; if there is a fixed range, some means for 
lighting it should be devised. It should be remem- 
bered in this connection that the vapor of gas from 
kerosene, which fills that space in a lamp unoccupied 
by oil, is both inflammable and explosive, and there- 
fore a shelf over a stove or fireplace is not the safest 
spot for a lamp. Many persons may say that they 
have always kept their lamps there without any ac- 
cident, but that does not obviate the danger any more 
than does the fact that people given to lighting fires 
with the aid of kerosene do not always get blown up 
the first time they do it. 

The odors from cooking can be collected and con- 
ducted to the chimney by a hood of tin hung from 
the ceiling above the stove, and connected with the 
chimney by a pipe. Where such a contrivance is not 
available, the tops of the windows and the ventilators 
above the doors — if there are any — should be kept 
open. To a great extent these odors can be prevented 
by avoiding spilling anything on the stove, and by 
taking care that saucepans do not boil over. If atten- 
tion is paid to the rules which have been laid down 
for boiling vegetables, especially cabbage, the usual 
kitchen odors can be controlled. Plenty of fresh air, 
cleanliness of towels, tables, sinks, closets, and uten- 
sils, and above all personal neatness, will keejD the at- 
mosphere of the kitchen fresh. Steam from boiling 
should always be expelled by ventilation, particularly 
when washing is going on, and that which condenses 
upon wood-work should be wiped off. In fact, the 
wood-work of a kitchen should be cleaned as regularly 
as the windows. A little ammonia in hot water — a 
tablespoonf ul to a quart — or a small quantity of borax 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 



267 



dissolved in the water, applied with a soft cloth or 
flannel, will clean paint and windows without soap ; 
washing-soda dissolved in hot water and used with a 
soft cloth will remove paint from glass. 

Oil-cloths should not be scrubbed or soaped; wipe 
them first with a damp cloth, and then with a dry one; 
occasionally a little milk and water may be used to 
brighten them, and if the pattern is worn off while the 
cloth is still good, they can be painted like a wooden 
floor. If the floor is bare, it can be kept spotless by 
regular scrubbing with soap and sand, or water con- 
taining borax or a little soda; if bad spots necessitate 
the use of lye, apply it with a brush, and remember 
while rinsing it off that its caustic action will injure 
the hands unless it is washed from them at once. 

Tables, pastry -boards, slop-pails, and the other 
wooden articles used in the kitchen should be cleaned 
frequently with hot water; meat -boards are best 
cleaned by scraping off the surface roughened by 
chopping. Japanned bread and cake boxes and trays 
are best cleaned by washing with warm water and 
soap, and, after they are dry, polishing them with dry 
flour and a soft cloth. 

The stove should be kept free from any spilled par- 
ticles of food, or grease from boiling or frying. If 
any falls upon it, a cloth dipped in hot water contain- 
ing a little borax or washing-soda should at once be 
used to wipe it off. Blacken the stove when it is cool, 
using any good polish moistened with cold water or 
vinegar, and then polish it with a brush. If there are 
steel fittings, polish them with a burnisher or with 
emery cloth, which can be bought in small sheets at 
the hardware -stores. Always clean the stove from 
ashes and cinders before making the fire, and take 



268 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

care that the water tank is filled, and the flues and 
tops of the ovens free from soot and ashes. All the 
cinders should be sifted from the ashes and used again; 
they facilitate the lighting of the fire. This is not a 
difficult matter if the draught is good. First in the 
empty grate place shavings or bits of paper loosely 
crumpled together, then small sticks crosswise, and 
larger ones on them, and finally cinders or small pieces 
of coal. Have all the covers of the stove on, and the 
draughts open, and light the fire from the bottom. 
When the lighter fuel burns brightly, add more coal, 
until the volume of heat desired is obtained. A wood 
fire is much easier to light, but requires to be rej^len- 
ished more frequently, than one of coal. Hard wood 
burns longer than soft. Charcoal is a good fuel, but 
expensive. Gas, oil, and vapor or gasoline stoves are 
in use in many places. Instructions for managing 
them always accompany them. 

The best result from coal as a fuel is obtained when 
the fire is of moderate size, replenished often enough 
to keep up a steady but not excessive heat. It is a 
mistake to choke the stove with coal. The heat of 
the fire can be maintained at an equal point if the 
fuel is supplied in small quantities often enough to 
give a clear, bright fire. If possible, add the fuel 
through the side or front door of the stove. Remov- 
ing the covers cools the top of the stove, and so inter- 
feres with cooking. Do not remove the covers if it can 
be avoided; it cools the oven as well as the top. Try 
to have the lower part of the fire clear enough to broil 
by; if this is impossible, do not try to broil while any- 
thing is being baked that requires high, steady heat. 
In some houses there is a broiler, heated by charcoal, 
separate from the stove. 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 



269 



When saucepans are flat on the bottom it is not 
necessary to remove the stove covers as in using the 
old-fashioned pots. Ovens will not bake well unless 
the flues and bottom are clean. When an oven burns 
on the bottom, cover it half an inch deep with clean 
sand; if it burns on the top, put a layer of sand or 
ashes over it. Sometimes the fire will not burn readily 
at first, because the air in the chimney is cold; in that 
case, burn a quantity of paper or shavings before try- 
ing to light the other fuel. 

Finally^ if there are no poultry, pigs, or cows to use 
the refuse of food, burn it at the back of the fire, with 
all the draughts open and the covers tightly closed, at 
some time of the day when there is no cooking in prog- 
ress. The solid portions can usually be kept separate 
from the slops; tea leaves and coffee grounds can easi- 
ly be drained. Above all, never allow slops or garbage 
to remain in the kitchen until they become offensive. 

Every point here enumerated can be so set before 
an intelligent servant as to convince her that it is not 
only feasible but desirable; and nothing is required 
which does not fall within her province of work. If 
systematically accomplished, the work will be made 
easier, and the kitchen, where the most of her waking 
time is passed, will be the pleasanter abiding-place for 
these suggestions. 

If cleanliness in the kitchen conduces to the comfort 
of a household, from the head down to the help, so 
does that of the cellar and storeroom, Avhen there are 
such adjuncts to the establishment, and this can be as- 
sured only by care on the part of the help. Explicit 
directions for the guidance of the housewife have al- 
ready been published in the author's " Practical Ameri- 
can Cookery." These are more specially intended for 



270 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the use of domestics. In the country, where the cellar 
is usually the storeroom, too constant care cannot be 
given to it. If it is wet, some means must be devised 
to dry it, for the health of the household as well as 
for the preservation of the food stored there; and 
no drainage from outside should ever enter it. The 
whitewash used for the walls should be made with the 
copperas water already spoken of, and applied at least 
four times a year, for it is one of the best of disin- 
fectants. 

If the ice-box is kept in the cellar the water caused 
by the melting ice should never be allowed to drip 
on the floor. Milk, vinegar, cider, and other liquids 
should be carefully guarded against leakage, and the 
brine from salted meats never spilled upon the ground 
or floor. 

All barrels and boxes stored in cellars should be 
moved occasionally to make sure that no dampness or 
mould is collecting under them; and vegetable bins 
should receive attention, especially in rainy seasons; 
if carpets or blankets are used to cover the vegetables, 
they should be washed and dried out-of-doors occa- 
sionally, and straw or hay used for such purpose should 
be renewed whenever it becomes damp. 

All the root vegetables keep best in sand; onions, 
on shelves or in open baskets; cabbages, in bins or 
barrels, with the roots uppermost; melons, squash, and 
pumpkins, laid without pressing; the green vegeta- 
bles, in a tub sprinkled with water, or in the ice-box 
wrapped in a wet cloth. Sweet potatoes need to be 
very dry, and do not keep long. White potatoes do 
well in barrels or bins; towards spring, when they are 
likely to sprout, they should be washed, put success- 
ively in a basket which will fit in a large boiler, and 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 271 

plunged into boiling water for three minutes; this 
will destroy the sprouts without injuring the potatoes, 
which may be cooled, dried, and kept as usual. 

Meats, poultry, and game should be hung up, not 
laid on shelves or dishes; if fresh fish is to be kept 
overnight, it should be salted and peppered and laid on 
an earthen dish, not on a board or shelf. Milk and but- 
ter should be kept in closed vessels or tubs, the butter 
being covered with brine or with salt, and a cloth under 
the head of the firkin. All such things will keep very 
well in a dry cellar temperature of from 40° to 50° F. 

If there is no ice-box, and it is desirable to keep ice 
temporarily, wrap it many times in newspapers, and 
lay it on a rack in a tub set in a dry place. Frozen 
fish, meat, poultry, and vegetables should be thawed 
by total immersion in a tub of cold water set in a 
cool place; never hy exposure to heat. If an ice-box 
is used it should be thoroughly washed with hot water 
and soda at least twice a week in summer, and once 
in winter, and food should never be laid upon the 
shelves, or put into it wrapped in paper ; it should 
always be on earthen dishes; no food of any kind 
should ever be put away in metal dishes unless they 
are porcelain-lined or glazed. Wooden racks and 
shelves in ice-boxes need frequent scalding and dry- 
ing; galvanized iron ones are better. "When there is 
the least unpleasant odor about an ice-box it shows 
either ignorance or carelessness on the part of those 
in charge of it; it is unquestionably the duty of the 
faithful servant at least to observe and report all un- 
desirable conditions, even if it is not in her power to 
remedy them. As everything connected with the 
larder is constantly under her observation, she can- 
not fail to see things which may escape the eye of the 



272 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

mistress, unless the latter makes a careful daily in- 
spection; she certainly should keep an outlook for 
possible wrong conditions. Sometimes a trusted ser- 
vant has entire charge of the market supplies, and if 
she is worthy of the confidence reposed in her she 
will take pride in making the most of them; certainly 
if she knows how to take care of them she can be a 
greater help, and therefore her services will be more 
valuable, especially in emergencies when the mistress 
is ill or absent. 

In the storeroom proper or the pantry the same 
cleanliness should be exercised; no liquids should be 
spilled without being at once wiped up; no solid par- 
ticles, like flour or sugar, should be allowed to remain 
upon the shelves or floor, lest those two household 
pests. Croton-bugs and ants, be attracted to the store- 
room. It is claimed that powdered borax mixed with 
sugar and laid under the shelf papers will drive them 
away; the genuine Persian insect powder, which is 
made from dried Persian camomile, should drive away 
or destroy them; but certainly some of the creatures 
seem to be the Wandering Jews of the insect world, 
for they flourish on all insecticides. One notable house- 
keeper reports much satisfaction from the use of wild- 
thyme as repelling the invasion of red ants; this 
comes naturally into the storeroom as one of that 

" Odorous chaplet of sweet summer buds," 

the flowering aromatic herbs, with which housewifely 
custom hangs our pantry shelves; in addition to its 
excellent culinary qualities, it is a good antiseptic and 
aromatic, like all the rest of the mint family. 

To guard against the spilling of dry groceries they 
should be changed from the paper bags in which 



nOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. £73 

many of them are bought to tin cans or wooden boxes; 
even paper boxes are preferable to bags. Order should 
be preserved upon the shelves, and receptacles so 
closed as to conceal their contents should be labelled. 
Preserves, pickles, catsups, sauces, and oil in bottles or 
glass jars keep best if shielded from the light with 
paper wrappers. The pantry should be well venti- 
lated and protected from dampness; hot food should 
not be put into the pantry or storeroom, because the 
steam from it causes dampness; no hot food should 
ever be covered, unless in the process of canning or 
preserving, for which explicit directions are given. 

When groceries and provisions are bought at whole- 
sale, there is one idea which should never be admitted 
to the mind: that is, that because there is abundance 
on hand there may be any waste tolerated; small 
quantities given or thrown away soon balance the 
saving of purchase by the case or barrel. It is for 
this reason that some housekeepers decline to buy 
largely; but that only argues lack of good manage- 
ment. If a servant shows any lavish disposition, the 
mistress should deal out exactly the weekly, or even 
daily, supply — if the latter course is necessarj'^ — mak- 
ing the fact perfectly Ave 11 understood that certain giv- 
en proportions of uncooked food must yield a relative 
number of finished dishes. Any servant who possess- 
es reasoning powers and conscience will soon see that 
this is the only system of economical management which 
can end favorably. The housekeeper's rule should be 
to supply enough of the ingredients called for to make 
a good dish; then, if there is failure, the cook is either 
incompetent or dishonest. For such qualities there 
are remedies, the first being tolerable if there is an ac- 
companying disposition to learn. 
18 



2 '7 4 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Some culinary failures come from an unwillingness 
on the part of the help to acknowledge that she does 
not know how to do the thing required; if there is in 
the kitchen a perfectly accurate and reliable cook- 
ery-book containing clear and continuous recipes, the 
chances are that a girl who can read, and lolio likes 
her business in life, will be anxious to put its teach- 
ings into operation. 

An earnest word may be said to mistresses in 
this connection: before asking a girl to prepare any 
definite dish, every ingredient called for should be 
given her; no reasonable person w^ould expect even 
the best of cooks to make a plum-pudding without 
plums ; and yet mistresses sometimes say of a miss- 
ing ingredient, perhaps indispensable, " Xever mind; 
leave it out." Then one of three — the author, the cook, 
or the instigator — is responsible for a spoiled dish. 

Next to the pantry proper comes the butler's pan- 
try, which in modern houses is often a recess or small 
room between the kitchen and dining-room. Where 
there is only one general servant, this wdll fall under 
her care, as also will the dining r room. The same 
neatness should prevail there as in the kitchen, espe- 
cially in regard to the sink, wiiere the dining-room sil- 
ver and china are generally washed; hot water wdth 
borax, and a lump of washing-soda in the sink, and 
plenty of clean towels — all these are required. Glass 
and delicate china require gentle handling and w^iping 
wdth soft, dry towels. Sometimes the mistress w^ill 
wash these and the silver at the table after the meal 
is over. There can be no more housewifely and grace- 
ful custom, and, if it is followed, certain cherished 
pieces are the better for it. 

The closets where the dishes are kept should be 



HOUSEHOLD SUGGESTIONS. 275 

dusted at least once a week, and always kept in order. 
Powdered borax under the shelf paj^ers will tend to 
free them from small vermin. For mice the best rem- 
edy is a well-trained cat; the destruction of rats and 
mice by poison is questionable, because the creat- 
ures are apt to die in the walls, and thus temporarily 
poison the atmosj^here. An absolutely effectual rem- 
edy against the invasion of these small Attilas was 
communicated to the writer some time ago by Pro- 
fessor Van der Weyde, the well-known authority on 
physical science. It is safe in the hands of a careful 
person. The holes from which the rats or mice 
emerge being found, the edges are to be rubbed with 
a stick of lunar caustic held in a pair of pincers: the 
caustic burns severely if taken in the fingers. It can 
be bought at the druggist's, and kept in an air-tight 
bottle, and 7iever should be handled unthout the pin- 
cers. The rats and mice, attempting to leave the holes, 
are turned back by it, and eventually driven away. 
If there are no bits of food left about the rooms or 
closets, or in available places in the cellar, rats and 
mice are not apt to congregate in occupied houses. 

Sometimes the most absolute cleanliness does not 
seem to guard against the pest of Croton-bugs and 
black beetles or roaches. The specific use of these 
creatures in the scheme of modern civilization not 
yet being so fixed as that of the Mexican air-beetle, 
which the dark-eyed senoritas confine with a golden 
harness as an ornament to their dress, it remains only 
to wage unremitting war against them with borax, in- 
sect powder, cucumber rinds, and the jDoisonous roots 
of black hellebore for the last-named midnight mon- 
sters; the hellebore must be used cautiously, for it is 
an absolute poison. 



270 FA]\1ILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 

When the household is small it is necessary, if it 
is to be comfortable, for the one servant to be well 
versed in the duties of the dining-room as well as the 
kitchen. If she is not an ill-regulated woman, mental- 
ly and nervously, she can so arrange her Avork as to 
be able to lay the table while the dinner is cooking, 
and serve it after it is done. When there is room 
enough to devote one apartment to the sole use of eat- 
ing, this extra work can be done without much wor- 
ry. For instance: in clearing the table after one meal 
many articles can be replaced directly the soiled dishes 
are removed and the cloth is brushed; the glasses, sil- 
ver, and various small articles can be laid in readiness 
for the next repast; the salt-cellars should be freshly 
filled for every meal; the table may be fully laid or 
not, according to circumstances. There is really no 
objections to this on the score of neatness; the table 
can be covered with a light cloth to protect its con- 
tents from dust and flies. Absolute neatness at the 
table is one of the best incentives to appetite, and in 
these days of cheap fabrics and abundant water supply 
there is but little excuse for soiled table-linen. 

When small children are admitted to the family 
table their special trays or water-proof napkins can be 
made to shield the cloth, and as soon as they can un- 
derstand the meaning of words they should be taught 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 277 

not to spill or scatter their food. While a well-be- 
haved child at table is a source of family pride, there 
is no torture this side of purgatory that can compare 
with the presence of an ill-bred, spoiled young human 
animal engrossed in eating and in making it impossi- 
ble for any one else to eat. Any spot upon a table- 
cloth should be covered directly by a clean napkin; 
if claret is spilled, the spot should be thickly covered 
with salt before the napkin is laid upon it; tea and 
coffee stains can be partly or wholly washed out and 
the cloth pressed before another meal; small spots can 
be rubbed out with a sponge or soft cloth dipped in 
warm water, a plate or platter being put under the 
cloth to raise it from the table. 

Usually, in ordinary family service, the same nap- 
kins are laid for all three meals, but the dinner nap- 
kin proper is larger than those used for breakfast or 
luncheon, and a colored napkin is sometimes used 
with fruit. When there is plenty of table linen and 
dishes, the regulation way is to lay a small fancy doily 
on the dessert plate, set on it the finger-bowl, one fourth 
filled with water, and lay the dessert silver by the side 
of the bowl; the fruit napkin is placed on the bowl; 
the plate being placed upon the table by the servant 
after the crumbs are brushed off, the person served 
lays the silver and napkin off the plate, and places the 
finger-bowl, with the doily under it, within easy reach 
of the left hand; the dinner napkin remains upon the 
knee, the fruit napkin being used for the lips and fin- 
gers when fruit is served which might stain the white 
napkin; at the close of the dinner the tips of the fin- 
gers are dipped in the bowl, and the lips wiped with a 
corner of the white napkin dipped in the water, unless 
a small glass containing water is set within the bowl; 



278 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

then the lips are moistened Avith this, and lightly 
wiped with the white napkin. A guest lays the nap- 
kins loosely at the left hand when done using them, 
but at the family table they are sometimes folded in 
napkin rings. It may be remarked in connection with 
colored fruit napkins that while they are cheap enough 
to permit a fresh supply when they are faded by wash- 
ing, the cheap colored table-cloths are apt to fade long 
before they are worn out; it is therefore better econ- 
omy to use white cloths until colored ones can be af- 
forded which are dyed with fast colors. 

A large cupful of salt dissolved in the water in 
which colored table-linen is washed will tend to pre- 
serve the color; a beef's gall and two cupfuls of salt, 
used at the first large washing, will generally set the 
dye in colored linens, care being taken to rinse them 
thoroughly. In regard to the use of napkins by the 
waitress in the service of the table — a large fresh nap- 
kin should be carried for the purpose of lifting hot 
dishes, holding water carafes and claret flagons, and 
to cover the hand when it comes in contact with the 
plates. A napkin is also folded about bottles contain- 
ing iced wine when it is poured by attendants. 

These napkins generally replace the white gloves, 
the wearing of which used to be ridiculed by some 
who did not comprehend that the gloves were worn 
for the comfort of fastidious diners, and not for per- 
sonal adornment of the attendant, as some of our crit- 
ics would seem to imply. 

When any entertainment is attempted, there should 
ahvays be a reserve supjoly of fresh napkins; and if 
there is not abundance of glass and silver, there 
should be appliances at hand near the dining-room for 
washing and drying them quickly. A little washing- 



INFOEMAL TABLE SERVICE. 2*79 

soda in the water in which the silver is washed quick- 
ly removes all odor of food. 

If possible, in laying the table, put on at first the 
large and small spoons, an extra fork on the left, and 
on the right two knives, generally a silver and steel 
one, or a large and a small silver knife, the latter for 
butter, which is generally used in this country at plain 
dinners; special forks for shell-fish are laid on the 
plate containing it, which is usually placed before the 
family sit down. When soup is served, the plates 
and tureen are set before the lady of the house, 
either just before dinner is announced, or as soon as 
she is seated. The plates and dishes for the rest of 
the dinner, with the exception of the dessert plates, 
are to be either in the plate-warmer, or in a large pan 
of hot water, with plenty of dry towels at hand for 
wiping them quickly when they are needed. Heating 
plates and dishes in the oven is to be reprobated, be- 
cause the intense heat checks the glaze, and the china 
is darkened by the absorption of grease through the 
fine cracks in the glaze. 

The dessert plates, cups and saucers, and silver 
should be ready upon the side-board or side-table, so 
that no time need be lost in hunting for them. Break- 
fast or tea plates answer for dessert when there are 
not special ones. 

Of late years the custom has so grown of putting an 
extra small dish at each place for bread and butter 
(where small butter-plates are not used), the stalks of 
asparagus, the small bones from poultry, cutlets, etc., 
that fanciful little "bone -plates" are now sold at 
house-furnishing stores. Any small plate or large 
shallow saucer will serve this purpose; it should be 
put on the table when it is laid. In addition to this 



280 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



plate, the necessary silver, the water tumbler, and pos- 
sibly cider or wine glasses, each cover or place should 
have its napkin and a thick, small slice of bread; either 
individual salts are at each cover or several large salt- 
cellars with spoons are placed at convenient intervals 
on the table. Of late years the large central caster 
with many bottles has been displaced by oil and vin- 
egar cruets in a double stand, small fancy pepper- 
boxes, and sauces in their original bottles, unless, in- 
deed, there is some special value or association at- 
tached to the larger caster. 

Pretty colored dishes containing flowers, fruit or 
nuts for dessert, olives, pickles, or relishes, may be scat- 
tered about the table, space being reserved at the head 
and foot for the large dishes of hot meat, etc., and 
for the smaller vegetable dishes at the sides. Water 
is sometimes poured from a large pitcher by the ser- 
vant, and sometimes placed on the table; water bottles, 
or carafes^ are placed upon the table, with a bowl of 
cracked ice and a small ladle or large spoon, so that 
the water can be cooled in the glasses, unless it has 
already been cooled in the ice-box. As a matter of 
sanitation water should be cooled Avithout the addi- 
tion of ice, by being put in the ice-box in carafes or 
pitchers, preferably covered, because ice cut from im- 
pure water in turn imparts that character to the water 
cooled with it. 

The laying of the knife and fork side by side on a 
plate is considered a signal for its removal. The 
crumbs can be removed with a large silver knife to a 
plate or tray held under the edge of the table — the 
fish or pie knife will answer an emergency — or brushed 
and scattered with a crumb brush. After the dinner 
proper is cleared away, the dessert dishes can be i3laced 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 281 

on the table, and the large sweet, which in American 
families is usually a pie or pudding, placed before the 
mistress. 

Tea or coffee, with cups and saucers, sugar and milk, 
being placed at her left, the servant may go to the 
kitchen to arrange for her own dinner, and the subse- 
quent clearing of the table. A few words here about 
the art of waiting at table: in the first place, see that 
every dish likely to be needed is at hand clean; if 
there is any scarcity have things ready for washing 
them; think beforehand what there is to be done, and 
how to do it quietly and without getting nervous; a 
considerate mistress will aid her help by suggestions, 
and make the dining-room service as light as possible 
where there is only one girl. If matters are prudently 
managed in the kitchen, the girl will have nothing to 
worry about there after the dinner is dished; by hav- 
ing the table set, and all necessary hot dishes ready, 
she can partly fill each saucepan with water as she 
dishes its contents, and place it where the water will 
heat while the dinner is in progress. A small lump 
of washing-soda in each utensil will make it easy to 
wash. When there is any special sauce or dish which 
requires to be kept hot for a while, the saucepan con- 
taining it can be set in a pan of hot water on the stove, 
and there will be no danger of burning. If during 
the preparation of the dinner dishes have been washed 
and restored to their places as far as possible, the labor 
of the final clearing up will be lightened. A handy 
girl will find innumerable ways of quickly doing the 
work which will hang on the hands of a sloven. A 
servant who is equally capable in kitchen and dining- 
room is a treasure to her mistress, and if her manners 
are good she becomes invaluable. If to faithful and 



232 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

intelligent service a girl adds a pleasant bearing and 
good manners, she is indeed a honsehold jewel. 

First, at the table. Already the suggestion has 
been made that the work which is to be done should 
be clearly defined and perfectly understood; that the 
dishes and various table fittings should be at hand, 
that nothing in the kitchen should be in a condition 
to worry about. All this being assured, proceed to serve 
each person's needs systematically and quietly. In 
order to move about quickly, the dress should be rather 
close, but not tight; that is, there should be no super- 
fluous ribbons or drapery to catch uj^on chairs or 
door-knobs; the hair sliould be guarded from falling 
down by a clean white cap, the dress covered with a 
white apron, and a large clean napkin carried to use 
in holding dishes and passing plates; if it is necessary 
for the thumb to project over the edge of a dish or 
within the rim of a plate, it should be covered by the 
napkin. If the meal consists of more than one course, 
all the dishes composing each should be brought from 
the kitchen at one trip, if possible, or very quickly, if 
successively, on a tray, and from that transferred to 
the table, the large ones being placed first at the head 
and foot of the table, so that the carving can begin at 
once, while the smaller dishes are being arranged at 
the sides. AYhen the master and mistress sit at oppo- 
site sides of a long table, instead of at the ends, the 
order of the dishes is to be reversed. When, as this out- 
line presuj^i^oses, there is only one maid, it is both con- 
venient and well-bred for people at the table to help 
each other; and indeed in some large establishments 
it is customary to dismiss the attendants at informal 
meals after the first service is performed. This con- 
sists of pouring the water, passing the tea or coffee, 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 283 

with the accompanying milk and sugar, and so placing 
the various dishes upon the table that all can be easily 
reached. All the table sauces likely to be needed 
should be on the table, with plenty of bread, butter, 
and whatever relishes are served. 

When the servant remains in the room during the 
meal, after every one is served, she should stand at 
the left hand of the mistress, a few steps back from 
the table, and watch the occupants of the foot and 
sides, to be sure that they are well supplied. If one 
motions to her, she should go quickly and ascertain 
what is wanted; if a plate is to be passed or removed, 
she should take it from over the right shoulder, hold- 
ing it with her napkin over the thumb so that it can- 
not slip, and being careful not to throw down the knife 
or fork, and not to drag the napkin over the guest's 
shoulder. In serving a dish she should hold it at the 
left, so that its contents can easily be reached by the 
person receiving it. Meats, fish, and j^oultry should 
have a knife and fork on the dish, and a spoon if there 
is stujBfing or gravy; most vegetables can be heljDed 
with a spoon, but asparagus, cauliflower in branches, 
macaroni, and salads require both fork and spoon, or 
special appliances. If a spoon, knife, fork, or napkin 
drops to the floor, she should pick it up quickly, and 
replace it with a fresh one. If anything is spilled 
upon the table-cloth, she should at once cover the spot 
with clean napkins. A large napkin should always be 
laid under platters of meat, fish, etc., and but very lit- 
tle sauce should be put on the dish, that it may not be 
spilled in carving ; there are many pretty table mats 
to keep the other dishes from soiling the cloth, but the 
bottoms should be carefully wiped before they are 
brought into the dining-room. A bell should be near 



284 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



tbe mistress, so that the servant can be signalled with- 
out rising from the table. Doors between the dining- 
room and kitchen, and those enclosing dumb-waiters 
or lifts, should always be kept closed to prevent the 
passage of objectionable odors, although these can 
generally be avoided if attention is paid during cook- 
ing to the directions already given. 

When the solid portion of the repast is removed — 
the plates having been taken away when done with 
— the large dishes are to be taken first, then the veg- 
etables and relishes, the bread, butter, condiments, and 
the mats or napkins used to protect the cloth, and 
finally the crumbs cleared off, and the remainder of the 
dishes placed for tea, coffee, fruit, or regular dessert, 
according to the character of the meal in progress. 
At dinner, when cheese has been served Avith the salad, 
it may remain for the dessert if desired; if nuts are used, 
salt should be left on the table; if cider, beer, or wine 
has been served, the glasses are generally taken away 
before the coffee is served. At dinner coffee is usu- 
ally strong, and served in small cups, with loaf-sugar, 
without milk; the coft'ee is brought in the cups to the 
table. If milk is preferred, a large cup is provided. 
At breakfast, Avhen there is fruit or oatmeal, either is 
usually served before the coffee and the heavier dishes 
are brought on. It is safest to boil oatmeal, hominy, 
and other cereals thoroughly the day before they are 
needed, and heat them before breakfast, to save time. 

Fruit for breakfast should be as fresh and cool as 
possible; if it be only oranges, they should be put in 
the ice-box or cellar overnight; melons should either 
have been on the ice, or in large vessels of cold water; 
ice served in direct contact with them impairs their 
flavor. Hot waffles and griddle cakes should be sent 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 285 

to the table with clean hot plates and fresh knives and 
forks, generally towards the close of the meal; but in 
winter hot buckwheat cakes are often eaten with the 
meat. Of course the service of hot cakes necessitates 
the servant's presence in the kitchen for the purpose 
of cooking them; they are best fried on a soapstone 
griddle, which does not require greasing; if an iron 
griddle is used, it should be kept perfectly smooth, 
and then the least fat will suffice for frying — only 
enough to make the surface shine. It is most easily 
applied with a small cloth tied on a stick, or a flat 
wooden rubber covered with cloth; a brush is apt to 
burn with the heat of the griddle. 

Waffles are baked in their special iron, which should 
be made hot and thoroughly covered with melted but- 
ter ; i. e., butter put in a cup set in a pan of hot water 
until melted, and then poured from the sediment in 
the bottom of the cup. When there is only one ser- 
vant, the mistress in planning the various meals should 
remember that such dishes will necessarily keep the 
girl in the kitchen, and should consequently manage 
in the dining-room without her services; that can be 
done without much difficulty if the table is properly 
laid. Every mistress should remember, in the begin- 
ning of service with a new girl, that her own ways may 
be quite different from those at the last place, and 
therefore should explain them clearly. A well-inten- 
tioned girl will soon adapt herself to every household's 
peculiarities. 

One very important thing for a mistress to remem- 
ber is that the work which she may do quickly and 
easily upon occasions, by bringing her intelligence to 
bear upon it, and putting all her energies into it, may 
be more difficult to a less competent person, and may 



286 • FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

become tiresome and irksome from constant repetition; 
she therefore should exercise forbearance when her 
handmaid is overtaxed or half sick. As a rule, ser- 
vants are human enough to appreciate kindly treat- 
ment ; one so devoid of conscience as to abuse it is a 
most undesirable inmate, and should be dispensed with 
at the first opportunity. 

While every mistress is bound by her relation to her 
servant to be habitually considerate, no one should per- 
mit the governing hand to slacken entirely. It is sim- 
ply natural to slight habitual tasks sometimes, and if 
this is always overlooked, the remissness becomes chron- 
ic. Every mistress should insist upon good and faith- 
ful service, and in turn be willing to reward it; it calls 
for more than the regular payment of wages, and kind- 
liness of spirit lies at the root of the proper and har- 
monious relation between mistress and servant. In 
leaving this part of our subject some final words may 
be said to the servant, based upon the impression of 
the household and its ways that she unconsciously 
gives new-comers. 

The appearance of the servant who ushers a visitor 
into the house is an almost infallible index to the sit- 
uation. Boorish manners imply a careless or uncult- 
ured mistress ; uncertainty of action shovrs that the 
girl has not been instructed how to receive. When a 
girl opens the door she generally knows vrhether or 
not her mistress is at home, and so can answer intelli- 
gently at once. If she is out, or not receiving callers, 
the servant should say so j^leasantly, and ask the visitor 
to leave the name or a card; if she is uncertain, she 
should usher the caller into a waiting-room, ask the 
name, and go at once to ascertain, returning as quick- 
ly as possible with an intelligible answer. When 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 287 

there are many callers it is best to provide a call-plate, 
or paper and pencil to receive the names of those un- 
provided with cards. Although it is largely the habit 
to speak the name to the servant, it is safer in a strange 
house to send one's card. The personal appearance of 
a servant at the door should be neatness personified; 
and that is possibl'e if the suggestions are regarded 
which have already been given in the preceding chap- 
ters. Stress has already been laid upon the imj)ortance 
of personal cleanliness on the part of servants. Accept- 
able as this condition is, we by no means OAve it to mod- 
ern culture, for as long ago as 1670 Hannah Wolley, in 
" The Queen-like Closet," forcibly admonishes the foot- 
man or v/aiting-woman that to " lean upon a chair when 
they wait is a particular favor shown to a superior ser- 
vant," and proceeds, in Saxon more emphatic than ele- 
gant, to interdict any defilement of plates with the 
breath: nor, quoth she, must one "touch them upon 
the right or inner side." Waiters do not always real- 
ize that the appearance of a labor-stained thumb on 
the edge of a plate is not very conducive to appetite, 
nor, indeed, do all hostesses; otherwise they would 
either supply their help with wash gloves (which 
should be immaculate at every meal), or instruct them 
to cover the visible part of the hand with a spotless 
napkin. Unquestionably too many housekeepers look 
upon the use of gloves or napkins by their waiters as 
part of a ceremony rather than a condition inseparable 
from neatness. The niceties of service at table, which 
become second nature to well-bred people, are too 
often by careless persons regarded as useless formali- 
ties, only occasionally to be indulged in at such times 
as demand great ceremony. " We are too busy," 
they say, "for such unnecessary observances every 



288 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



day," just as many inhabitants of civilized communi- 
ties are too busy for an habitual daily bath, and face 
the possible contingencies of life on a j)int of water 
a day. 

The true secret of perfect table service is its every- 
day performance. If the family table is well served, 
there need never be any anxiety attending the unex- 
pected arrival of a guest. Only recently a friend by 
evolution from a pupil, gave her personal solution of 
the question, which is too delightfully simple not to be 
shared with our readers. We were speaking of break- 
fast, the one meal of the day necessarily hurried. The 
family was large, the attendance at breakfast uncer- 
tain and irregular ; if the host and hostess were punc- 
tual, not so always the sons and daughters, " the sis- 
ters and the cousins and the aunts." Each one came 
to table at his or her own sweet will, and the result 
was so often an interrupted or utterly ruined break- 
fast on the part of the long-suffering host and carver 
that the service d la Russe was substituted. The large 
dishes and coffee were kept hot at the fire or on chafing- 
dishes, and as each delinquent appeared the waitress 
served him or her. 

The system told. The host ate his breakfast in 
peace and went to business; the waitress attended as 
faithfully to her duties as if a formal dinner were in 
hand. If any late -comer failed to secure his or her 
favorite morsel, the remedy remained to come early 
enough to table the next day to make sure of it. Of 
course this presupposes plenty of help; in the event 
of only one servant — a general helper — the first service 
of dishes and their return to the heating lamp or the 
hot closet before the fire attended to, she would retire 
to do her other work, and late-comers would follow the 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 289 

English fashion, prevailing even in great establish- 
ments, of helping themselves. 

So far as personal neatness for table service is con- 
cerned, most girls pride themselves upon looking trim 
and tidy. Let the mistress follow the suggestions 
given earlier concerning toilet accommodations, and 
the average good girl will avail herself of them. The 
manners of a maid are of far greater importance than 
the color of her hair and eyes and the symmetry of her 
features. True, there are human boors, feminine as 
well as masculine, but they are a race that we do not 
willingly admit to our homes in any capacity. Of all 
the types of American help none have ever rivalled 
the comfortable charm of the old-time house-servant 
of the South. ISTaturally polite, close imitators of the 
urbane hospitality of "the family," with the personal 
pride in the time-honored ''open-band, open-house" 
welcome to the master's friends which was a sixth sense 
to the Southern man or maid — who that has known 
their loving service fails to regret that the last of their 
race are passing away ? And from every section of 
the country the demand is loud for good and faithful 
service. 

" From whence shall it come ?" is one of the most 
serious social problems of the day. Not from the na- 
tive rural population. No one can hope it who has 
known the tribulations of the country hosts that battle 
with the untrained local summer help ; too ignorant to 
be made conscious of their own deficiencies ; too vain 
to perceive the advantage of quiet ways and gentle 
words; too utterly possessed with that detestable sense 
of equality which is the curse of the time, to realize 
that no one can command well who has not first learned 
to serve well. Alas ! no hope from that direction ; but 
19 



290 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

little hope from the growing daughters of the workers 
who have sought in this too generous country better 
fortunes than those of their forefathers in older lands. 
The little learning of our doubtful public-school sys- 
tem has proven the dangerous thing that sends thou- 
sands yearly into the shops, the factories — the mills 
where the devil's grist is ground — rather than to the 
safe shelter of such decent domestic work as would fit 
them for the 

"chaste lives, 
Home-keeping days, and household reverences" 

that are our only hope for social regeneration in these 
uncertain times. It argues ill for the future of any 
country when its women decry the homely virtues and 
the knowledge imperative to the making of good wives 
and mothers. 

If the yomig women of America are all unwilling to 
gain experience in household matters either in their own 
homes or those of others, it will be hard to conceive what 
the family will be over which they may sometime reign. 

Unless home conditions are varied and extensive, the 
house of a prudent, accomplished matron is the best of 
places in which to learn domestic lore. The staid and 
sensible German race have long since set us the exam- 
ple of exchanging their daughters in the pursuit of this 
wisdom. Even among the wealthiest classes the young 
women serve out their term in the household of some 
notable Haiisfrau. 

Let us consider what such service implies, and then 
ask if we, as a nation, are too great or too cultivated to 
undertake it ? Carefully read over the matter which 
immediately precedes this, and follow that which goes 
to make uj) the sum of our suggestions, and then de- 
cide, mothers Avho have failed to train your daughters, 



INFORMAL TABLE SERVICE. 



291 



daughters vdio have not yet realized the importance of 
such knowledge, whether one thing is suggested which 
seems useless to maid or to mistress, remembering the 
fact that in this country the maid of to-day may to- 
morrovv^ be called upon to guide a maid of her own. 

We have briefly covered the questions of service in 
the kitchen and at the formal dinner-table; let us next 
take the service of the plainest dinner and other less 
important meals. Under the least elaborate conditions 
the table can be made as inviting as it sometimes is re- 
pulsive, and the servant who can do this is invaluable 
to her fortunate possessor. 

The typical maid will have clean face and hands and 
tidy hair, a gown of wash material that is short enough 
to escape draggling, free from puffs and looj)s that 
catch upon door-knobs, and drag books and ornaments 
from every table or shelf she paisses; her apron will be 
smooth and spotless (if she is wise she will, while busy, 
cover it w^ith a large work-apron, which can be easily 
laid aside when she is called suddenly from her work), 
her shoes will be whole and noiseless, and her under- 
wear so fresh that no odor is perceptible. If the sleep- 
ing-room is properly aired, the personal habits neat, 
and the kitchen or laundry where she works well ven- 
tilated, there never need be the least unpleasantness in 
her personal contact, even if she has been called at her 
busiest moment. Her manners will be quiet and cheer- 
ful, her voice not too loud, her attitude respectful and 
attentive, and she will remember what is said to her. 
If she answers a call at the door, she will see that any 
person waiting has a seat either in the reception-room 
or the hall, she will quickly bring their answer, and see 
that the door is closed when they leave. 

If she is called to a room, she will knock before she 



292 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

enters. If she brings a card or letter, she will hand it 
upon a little tray. A glass of water she will set upon 
a plate. If she serves a little lunch, she will arrange 
the dishes upon a salver covered with a clean napkin, 
and see that there is bread and butter, salt and pepper, 
sugar and milk for the tea and coffee, always a glass 
of water, and as many knives, forks, and spoons as are 
likely to be needed; and she will not leave soiled dishes 
standing after they are used. 

If she has to make or replenish the fire, she w^ill do 
it with the least possible attending dust and noise. In 
winter she will keep doors and windows closed, except 
when the room is being aired; in summer she will see 
that there is always cool, fresh drinking-water in the 
dining-room all day and in the bedrooms at night. At 
night also she will replenish the suppl}^ of toilet wa- 
ter, and remove all waste water and soiled towels from 
the bedrooms. If there are fancy bed-covers, she will 
remove them, and turn the bed-clothes ready for the 
sleeper. In the morning she will rise early enough to 
make her room and herself tidy, and to get through 
the most unpleasant daily duties and have the living- 
rooms in good order before the family appear. She 
will know what she has to do during the day, and will 
not shirk. If she is honest, she will try to do in the 
best way the work she is paid for doing; she will take 
pride in doing it well, just as a good workman does, or 
a successful business man. And the wise mistress who 
has such a domestic treasure will show her apprecia- 
tion by kindly encouragement, by gentle and system- 
atic government, and by practical co-operation in emer- 
gencies. There are mistresses alive to do just that, 
and maids as well, who might sit for this portrait. 
May both multiply and increase ! 



DINING-ROOM WORK. 293 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

DINING-ROOM WORK. 

Let us suppose that a girl is to be trained in the de- 
tails of ordinary family work. Even if the mistress 
has no experience, she can gain substantial knowledge 
from the many good works now extant on domestic 
management. The least intelligent and most unsys- 
tematic person can be impressed to some degree by the 
repetition of certain acts: if you want a thing well and 
easily done, have it done so often that its performance 
becomes a habit. Make every day's service perfect in 
every department ; be as well served alone as when 
guests are present, and then there will be no uncer- 
tainty or incomj)etence visible before them. 

This idea is quite practicable; the same plates and 
glasses may not always be used, but all can be used in 
the same way; when only the family is present the 
mistress will not be embarrassed if she has to repeat 
some direction to her untrained girl; and the girl her- 
self will be less nervous than she must necessarily be 
when using unfamiliar appliances which are reserved 
for special occasions. Very few domestics ever use in 
their own homes the ordinary table furnishings of the 
well-to-do classes, and almost never have a defined idea 
of such service of a meal as is habitual in modern house- 
holds of any standing. Where the extent of the estab- 
lishment permits it, one of the best ways to secure 
perfect service at the family table is to insist that the 



294 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. " 

kitchen table shall be properly laid, the linen neat, and 
the food perfectly prepared; such premises are excep- 
tional, however. 

To return to probable conditions: after a servant is 
competent in such kitchen work as has already been 
outlined, she will be quite prepared to follow the de- 
tails of dining-room work, either under the guidance 
of her mistress or with these directions in her own 
hands — perhaps the last way is the best, provided the 
mistress overlooks the routine of work. Let her fill 
out this outline so as to meet the requirements of the 
entire day, beginning with the opening of the room in 
the morning. Remember that but few of the family 
rise early, and it is incumbent on those who do to move 
about quietly, to open and close doors and windows 
without banging and slamming, to move furniture 
carefully while sweeping and dusting (especially in 
the halls), and to sweep the stairs without striking the 
balusters with the broom or brush; above all, take care 
to wear noiseless shoes, and protect the hair and dress 
from dust. The halls and stairways in order, the 
kitchen fire lighted, and breakfast gotten under way, 
the dining-room is next to be put in order. OjDcn the 
windows to air the room ; make the fire, and tidy the 
room while it is burning. A stove is lighted just like 
the kitchen fire, which has already been described; a 
grate needs special care. 

If a poor fire is burning, put up the blower and rake 
the ashes out of the bottom, so as to admit enough air 
to create a draught; then take down the blower, put 
plenty of kindling-wood on the live coals, and a few 
pieces of fresh coal on the wood, and replace the blow- 
er; do not put on much coal, and do not pack it down 
so closely as to smother the draught. The success of 



DINING-ROOM WORK. 



295 



starting a grate fire depends upon building it so loose- 
ly that the air can freely pass through every j^art of 
it; if the draught is poor, loosely crumple some balls 
of paper, lay them on the top of the coals, and set 
them on fire to heat the air in the upper part of 
the fireplace, and so create a draught ; in a fireplace 
that has long been unheated, burn enough straw, shav- 
ings, paper, or pine kindlings to warm the chimney, 
and so create a draught. If the fire of the previous 
day has gone quite out, empty the grate, put in paper 
or shavings, then kindling-wood or charcoal, then a few 
pieces of cinders, coke, or coal, and proceed to light the 
fire as just directed. 

A poor draught can be helped by opening a door or 
window a little, or by using a bellows. If the fuel 
settles together before the fire is well lighted, stir it 
and make openings through it with the poker so that 
the air can pass. Replenish the fuel by degrees, keep- 
ing the blower up until a clear, steady fire is burning; 
then remove the blower, and place the wire fire-guard 
in front of the grate. After the kindlings are first 
lighted, take up the ashes, putting the large cinders 
with the coal to use presently, and the ashes aside to 
be sifted. If in taking up the ashes a newspaper is 
held in the left hand, above the scuttle, and the shovel 
is gently emptied into the very bottom, the ashes being 
allowed to slide from it, but little dust will escape to 
settle about the room. Brush up the hearth, dust the 
ashes from the fender and fireplace frame, and polish 
the brass or steel fittings while the blower is still in 
place. Never leave live coals near the woodwork of the 
fireplace ; never hang towels or dusters near an open fire ; 
never use kerosene or oil to kindle a fire; never leave 
lamps upon the mantel-shelf over a burning fire. Dur- 



296 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

ing the day replenish the fire as fresh coal is required. 
Do not let the fire get too low in the evening if it is 
to be kept alive all night. Before retiring put on a 
little fresh coal, then a good layer of cinders, and a 
covering of ashes from under the fire — all that can 
safely be heaped upon the grate; arrange the blower 
in front of the fender so as to prevent any stray coal 
from falling out upon the floor, and close the windows 
and doors to stifle the draught. Take every precau- 
tion against accidents from fire. 

It is said that a handful of salt thrown uj^on a fire 
in the grate or stove will extinguish fire in the chim- 
ney by the evolution of muriatic-acid gas from the 
burning salt. If the chimney is found to be on fire, 
throw salt into the stove or grate, close all doors and 
windows, and at once give notice to the mistress or 
to some one who can aid in this emergency. Although 
the burning of soot in the chimney is not necessarily 
dangerous, such a fire may spread to adjoining wood- 
work, and therefore it should be smothered as quickly 
as possible. 

After the fire is lighted, arrange the furniture and 
dust it. If the room needs sweeping, either sj^rinkle 
tea-leaves or small bits of wet pajoer upon the carpet, 
and wet the broom, shaking off all superfluous water. 
Sweep from the walls towards the centre of the room, 
and take up all the dirt there w^th a dust-pan and a 
small broom. Sweep with long, even strokes, always 
lifting the broom from the floor and holding it flat 
over the spot it was raised from for a moment to keep 
the dust from flying about the room; hold the broom 
squarely, and touch the carpet with its entire width. 
One sweeps more rapidly in this Avay, and wears the 
broom less. The new, unworn brooms should be kept 



DINING-EOOM WORK. 



297 



for the carpets; partly-worn ones will do for sweeping 
flag-stones, cellars, and rough places. A broom which 
is wetted occasionally wears best; when partly worn, 
a broom can be trimmed down, as will be shown in 
the hints for preserving household utensils. 

Although the dining-room needs some sweeping in 
the morning, it is best to thoroughly clean it when 
there is plenty of time to dust and polish the furniture 
by rubbing with a soft cloth, to polish the windows, 
and clean all the white wood-work. AYindows can be 
cleaned perfectly and easily as follows: powder a lit- 
tle whiting, mix it to a smooth paste with just enough 
cold water to moisten it, rub it all over the glass with 
a soft rag, and then polish it off with a large, dry, clean 
cloth or a piece of chamois; a little washing-soda dis- 
solved in hot water will remove spots of paint from 
window glass. 

For cleaning white paint, put a tables|30onful of 
ammonia in a basin of water, and rub the paint with 
a rag wet in it; stains can be removed by using any 
kind of sapolio on a wet rag, but it must be remem- 
bered that this takes off the paint with the stain; flan- 
nel is the best cloth for cleaning paint. To clean the 
dark wood-work of floors use a damp dusting cloth 
and then a dry one, or lightly brush the paint with a 
feather duster Avhen it is only dusty. Painted floors 
imply the use of rugs; these should be lightly shaken 
every day if they are small, and brushed with a small 
broom every day when they are too large to be shak- 
en frequently. 

Druggets used to protect the carpets of dining-rooms 
should be kept clean in the same way. Curtains at 
the windows should be lightly shaken every morning 
when the windows are opened, and shades dusted with 



298 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

a feather brush. Upholstered furniture should be 
brushed with a soft brush every day, and leather 
rubbed with a soft cloth. 

Mirrors can be polished with a soft cloth wet with a 
few drops of ammonia. The sun should not be al- 
lowed to fall on mirrors, because its rays affect the 
metallic coating on the glass. The rag wet with am- 
monia will easily clean the plated door knobs and any 
metal trimmings about the fireplace; also silver or 
plated salvers used at table. In using ammonia be 
careful not to inhale its fumes, as its action upon 
the mucous membrane is irritating, and may be pro- 
longed to a point of danger. Japanned trays can be 
polished with a little powdered whiting or dry flour, 
all of it being rubbed off with a soft cloth. Thus, it 
will be seen, an active, tidy girl can always keep her 
room absolutely clean by making it tidy every morning. 

The outfit of a dinino;-room of medium size and 
moderate comfort is not a formidable matter at pres- 
sent. No other room demands less ornamentation, 
although certain pictures are admissible, and richly 
colored china is always in place. Fortunate indeed is 
the possessor of old Staffordshire blue ware, for no 
coloring is more effective than its magnificently dark 
blue displayed against any background of wood or 
wall. If a dish or plate is fixed in the holders now 
sold at house-furnishing stores, or in an improvised 
wire holder, it may be hung wherever a picture would 
be in place, or set iipright upon a shelf or sideboard. 

The draperies of a dining-room should be of some 
light material, preferably not woollen, because that 
fabric so readily receives and persistently retains the 
odors of food and smoke; the best window fixtures 
are of linen and lace, both in suitable form for washing. 



DINING-EOOM WORK. 



299 



The best floor arrangement is oiled hard wood or 
stained floors with rugs for winter, or matting in 
summer-houses. Smooth floors of hard wood can be 
kept in good order by rubbing them very forcibly 
along the grain with a soft rag moistened Avith hot 
boiled linseed-oil; if the floor needs to be stained, mix 
with the oil a little powdered burnt umber. When 
hard floors simply require polishing, apply the follow- 
ing mixture with a soft cloth, and polish the floor with 
a proper brush (full directions are given for this process 
elsewhere in the author's works; sufiice it to say here 
that the ingredients should be melted by stirring in a 
basin set in hot water, without being exposed to con- 
tact with fire, because they are inflammable) : half a 
pint of turpentine, two and a half ounces of powdered 
resin, and three quarters of a pound of yellow bees- 
wax. Common wood floors may be stained by rub- 
bing in with the grain one whole portion of raw lin- 
seed-oil, half a portion of turpentine, and enough 
j)owdered sienna or burnt umber to make the desired 
color. A liquid staining mixture is sold at paint- 
shops. Before applying the stain the floor should be 
freed from nail-heads, and made smooth. After the 
stain is dry the floor should be dusted every day, and 
occasionally wiped with a cloth moistened in clean 
water. 

Rugs, or carpets sewed in the form of rugs, are the 
best woollen coverings for dhiing-room floors, because 
they can be shaken frequently. Dining-room fur- 
niture should be light enough to be easily moved, the 
sideboard and tables being set on casters. Full direc- 
tions have been given for keeping the room and its fit- 
tings clean ; and what is said about the choice of linen, 
glass, china, silver, and cutlery for other meals, and its 



300 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

care, applies in this instance as well. It hardly need 
be said that the room should always be well aired and 
lighted, and that any unsightly outlook should be con- 
cealed by opaque muslin curtains run upon rods or 
firm cords attached to the sides of the windoAV-frames. 
Madras cloth is a favorite material for such curtains. 

Some directions have already been given for the 
service of, the family breakfast, but in the interest of 
good service it may again be said that the table is laid 
as directed for luncheon, and the service of dishes is 
similar, unless fresh fruit begins the meal ; in that 
case colored napkins, and sometimes finger-bowls, are 
l^laced upon the table with the fruit, which is eaten 
first, and the napkins and bowls removed before the 
breakfast proper is served. 

After the meal is over, the dishes are to be gathered 
and washed — the glass and silver first, then the cups 
and saucers and anj^ dishes and plates not greasy; these 
are to be washed last of all. A little ammonia or wash- 
ing-soda in hot water, with soap and a soft cloth, will 
clean dishes well, and they should be thoroughly dried 
with clean soft towels. Many persons always wash 
glasses in cold water, without soap. Never pour hot 
water into a glass unless it contains a spoon; this will 
serve as a conductor for the heat of the water and 
lessen the risk of breakage. 

If all glass and china, when it first comes into the 
house, is put into a large boiler full of cold water, and 
gradually brought to the boiling-point, the subsequent 
chance of breakage is diminished. Ivory handles on 
knives should not be wet; the blades of steel knives 
should be washed before they are scoured with fine 
brick-dust on a wet cork or rag. 

Soda in hot water will clean silver; all polishing soaps 



DINING-ROOM WORK. 



301 



and powders simply scratch a bright surface upon it. 
When silver is not in constant use, keep it entirely 
wrapped in tissue-paper, and shut from the air in suit- 
able boxes. A little olive-oil rubbed on steel knives 
prevents rust. Keep a lump of washing-soda in the 
sink, and flush it with hot water after washing dishes. 
Wash the dish towels, after using them, with hot water 
and soap or soda, and dry them in the air; wash and 
dry the dish-cloths also. 

In clearing the table lay all the pieces of bread and 
the food that can be used again upon separate dishes, 
and dispose of it as the mistress directs. Put all the 
butter upon the individual plates on one plate, for 
use in cooking. Fill the salt-cellars, pepper-boxes, 
and other condiment-holders after every meal. Brush 
up the crumbs from the floor, arrange the furniture, 
and darken the room. Some housekeepers permit the 
table to be laid for the next meal, and covered with a 
light cloth to keep off dust and flies. This is well 
when there is only one servant. 

Always before every meal wash out the water pitch- 
ers and carafes^ and fill them with fresh, cool water. 
Carafes uj^on the table save trouble to the waitress. 
When finger-bowls are used, have them ready on the 
side table with a little fresh w^ater in them, each one 
set upon a doily on a plate. Some ladies have a small 
glass set in the finger-bowl and partly filled with scent- 
ed water. Take care always that the table-cloth is 
clean ; if a spot stains it when it cannot be changed, 
cover it with a clean napkin. Always have plenty of 
clean napkins ready ; they are cheap enough to come 
within the reach of all. Table-linen need not be boiled 
every time it is w^ashed, if borax is used in the water; 
the borax is excellent for washing colored table-cloths 



302 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A. YEAR. 

and napkins. To iron table-cloths without creasing 
them, roll them upon a long curtain roller as fast as 
they are ironed dry, beginning at one end. A Canton- 
flannel cloth under the linen one makes the table-cloth 
look well, and saves spots upon the table. 

There are many ways in which an intelligent girl 
can promote economy in the household. She will go 
far towards doing this if she will practise the sugges- 
tions already given, and if she will carry out those 
which follow. The careless use of different utensils 
and mechanical appliances of work is a source of great 
expense to the housekeeper; the helpful girl will try 
to make such things last as long as possible. Take, 
for instance, the use of brooms: brooms which are 
hung up keep their first shape better and sweep more 
evenly than those left standing; if they are dipped in 
warm water every day, they will last longer than if 
left dry. When a broom is worn unevenly, soak it in 
warm water for a half-hour, tie the stalks, if they have 
broken apart, and trim the bottom even with large, 
sharp scissors. If very much worn, soak and trim the 
broom, shorten the handle, and use it for a hearth 
broom. While sweeping keep a pail of warm water 
near, frequently dip the broom in it and shake off the 
water, changing it as it becomes soiled; the wet broom 
wears the carpet less than a dry one, and the damp- 
ness keeps the dust from flying. 

To clean ordinary spots from a carpet have a pail 
of warm water containing a tablespoonf ul of ammonia, 
or some soap-suds, and another of clean water, a large 
piece of flannel, and half a dozen dry cloths that do 
not shed lint: first wet the flannel in the soap-suds 
and wring it nearly dry, then quickly rub about half 
a square yard of the carpet with it, rinse the flannel in 



DINING-ROOM WORK. 



303 



the clear water, and again wring it out, and rub tlie 
carpet with it, and then witli the dry cloths rub the 
wet spot on the carpet until it is dry. As soon as a 
cloth becomes wet hang it in the air to dry; change 
the water as often as it becomes soiled; work quickly, 
so that the carpet may not become wet. If the carpet 
is much spotted use instead of the soap-suds a quart 
of fresh ox-gall in three quarts of warm water. If 
there are grease -spots on the carpet, remove them, 
before washing it, either Avith some reliable grease- 
extractor, or by using flour as f uller's-earth is used in 
cleaning woollen goods; if the flour is thickly spread 
upon the grease-spot and allowed to remain for sever- 
al days it will usually eradicate the stain; sometimes 
several applications of flour are required. A warm 
iron passed lightly over the flour will promote the ex- 
traction of the grease. 

In choosing a dining-room carpet, it should be re- 
membered that small figures and medium light colors 
show dust less than dark, solid colors. Painted, oiled, 
and parquette floors, linoleum, and oil-cloth are injured 
by scrubbing; wipe them vfith a cloth Avet in borax- 
water and then with a dry one; milk on a cloth gives 
a good appearance to oil-cloth. AYash matting with 
warm water containing a pint of salt to a gallon of 
water, and quickly rub it with a clean, dry cloth. 
Wash cane-seat chairs with ammonia and water, or 
with hot water, soap, and a sponge; if the cane is 
stretched out of shape, thoroughly saturate it under- 
neath. 

To clean the walls of the dining-room tie a large 
soft cloth over a broom and rub the walls with it, re- 
newing the cloth as it becomes soiled; if the walls are 
papered, rub them in even downward strokes with a 



304 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



loaf of stale bread cut through, the centre to expose 
the largest surface of crumb. If there are any vermin 
in the floor or base-board crevices saturate them with 
strongly salted water or with alum dissolved in water, 
a pound to a quart. Do not use soaj) in cleaning mar- 
ble mantels, tables, etc., but wash them with ammonia 
and clear water — enough ammonia to make the water 
feel smooth. Before beginning to clean the dining- 
room cover all the small ornaments with clean dusters, 
and dust the furniture, and either cover it or set it out 
of the room. Plain, substantial furniture is best for 
the dining-room; but where carved wood is used it 
must be frequently dusted with a brush made of soft 
bristles, and rubbed with a soft, clean cloth; a very 
few drops of ammonia in water, lightly rubbed with 
a soft cloth on spots will remove them, but it must be 
cautiously used, because it takes off the varnish if 
freely applied. After lightly passing the wet cloth 
over the spots, let them dry, and then polish them 
with a soft dry cloth. Upholstered furniture should 
be beaten with a light cane or a furniture-beater or 
rattan, and then dusted. 

Ammonia should not be used in the evening, or 
near a fire, or the bottle left uncorked, because in its 
way it is dangerous; its volatile character makes the 
escape of an inflammable gas possible; the fumes 
should not be breathed, and on no account should a 
particle of the crude preparation be swallowed, be- 
cause it is quite capable of causing a spasmodic con- 
traction of the throat which may result in death. Re- 
member, then, to have the bottle uncorked only long 
enough to pour out the required quantity. Use a rub- 
ber cork in the bottle. Like kerosene, it is a bad mas- 
ter. 



DINIr^G-KOOM WORK. 



305 



Too much care cannot be taken in using kerosene. 
The best quality will not ignite by contact with flame, 
but it gives off a gas or vapor that explodes and sets 
fire to everything it touches. The flames from kero- 
sene cannot be extinguished with water, but flour 
thrown profusely upon them will smother them, or a 
large woollen rug or cloth will help stifle them. When 
kerosene is used for lighting, the lamjDs should be 
trimmed early in the day. Keep all the apparatus on 
an old tray, and never use the rags, brushes, or scis- 
sors for any other purpose than trimming the lamps. 
Lamp chimneys wdll not break easily if they have been 
put over the fire in a pan of cold water, with cloth be- 
tween them to prevent breaking, and boiled for a half- 
hour or longer. Let them cool in the water. Some 
housekeepers soak the larap-wdcks in vinegar, and then 
dry them. If a wick does not move easily in the 
holder, draw out one or two threads from one side. 
The wdck should be as large a one as the holder will 
receive. Do not cut it after the first trimmino: to 
make it even, but pinch off the burned portion every 
day with a cloth. The best wicks are woven soft and 
loose. If lamps or burners become sticky or clogged 
with dust, boil them in soda-water, taking care not to 
use it on gilt metal. Metal lamps are safer than those 
made of china or glass; no opening is needed save the 
one which receives the wick-holder; the lamp can be 
filled through that. Do not fill lamps to the top, and 
do not burn them until they are entirely empty, for 
fear of an explosion. Do not keep them on the chim- 
ney-piece or in a very w^arm place, lest the gas ex- 
pand with heat, and thus cause explosion. Do not 
carry a lighted lamp from a warm room into a cold 
one without turning the wick low. Do not bring the 
20 



306 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

lamps or oil suddenly from a cold room to a warm 
one; a gradual change of temperature will render less 
likely expansion of the explosive gas. In lighting 
and extinguishing lamps turn the wicks up or down 
gradually to avoid exposing the chimney to a sudden 
change of temperature, which causes breakage. 

It seems superfluous to say that the utmost neatness 
should attend the filling and trimming of lamps, and 
that the cloths used about them should frequently be 
washed and dried. When oil stoves are used, the same 
care should be exercised, because there is always dan- 
ger that the gas generated from the oil by heat may 
explode. Naphtha is a very dangerous fuel, for the 
same reason. In the matter of fuel, a servant can save 
or waste with equal facility, either using it unneces- 
sarily when but little heat is required, or saving it in 
many ways. When wood is used, the ashes should 
be saved to use in making lye, and, in the country, as 
a fertilizer. 

In cities the question resolves itself into the treat- 
ment of hard and soft coal and coke; the two latter 
leave but little residue save ashes, but the hard coals 
usually yield many cinders if sifted after burning; 
cinders are excellent fuel for kindling, and when a hot 
fire is required, resembling coke in their action; the 
latter is an excellent fuel when an intense heat is called 
for, but unless mixed with coal, coke burns out very 
soon, necessitating frequent replenishing. When clink- 
ers form in the fire grate, burn a few oyster shells to 
loosen them, and reject them in sifting. If there is a 
proper sifter that fits over a barrel or box, it is but 
little trouble to sift cinders; they should have water 
thrown upon them before they are burned. When a 
hot fire is not needed, fuel can be saved by closing the 



DINING-ROOM WORK. 



307 



draughts, partly opening the top front door of the 
stove or range, and pressing the coals closely together. 
To revive the fire, rake it clear, throw fuel lightly upon 
it, and open the draughts after closing the upper door. 
When cooking, do not take off the covers of the stove 
if it can be avoided, as it usually can with flat-bottomed 
utensils, because the removal of the covers dissipates 
the heat from the entire top of the stove; when the 
covers remain closed an equal temperature prevails 
over the surface, suitable for cooking if the fire is hot 
enough. 

A painful burn is often received when doing kitchen- 
work. Without making any other application, break 
an egg, cover the burn with several coatings of the 
raw white, allowing each one to dry before putting on 
another; as often as the film of egg becomes loosened, 
renew it; by thus keeping the burn free from the air 
and contact with any substance, it will heal quickly, 
and no wrappings are needed. After work is done 
at night, saturate cloths with the pure extract of ha- 
mamelis, and bind them upon the burn; if they are 
wet at intervals during the night the pain will be con- 
quered by morning. 

The careful use of cooking utensils is an economical 
item. When they have been used, fill them with wa- 
ter and boil a small lump of soda in them; to clean 
them thoroughly, boil them with soda in a wash boiler^ 
and do not injure them by scraping or rubbing with 
any metallic article. Do not use good knives around 
the stove, because the heat destroys their temper. Do 
not throw away soiled rags, unless they are worn out; 
wash them to use as dusters or scrubbing cloths. Be 
very careful not to break dishes and glasses. The 
amount of outlay occasioned by breakage makes a 



308 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



dreadful balance on the wrong side of some household 
accounts, which is as unnecessary as it is aggravating. 
If loss can be avoided by the proper use of utensils, 
a careful maid can materially second her mistress's 
efforts to be economical by using all remains of food. 
A few ways are indicated here. AVhen too small a 
quantity of meat, fish, game, or poultry is left to make a 
large dish, cut it in small, even pieces, put it into a jar, 
and cover it with vinegar, scalded with whole spices; 
when it is cold, it can be used as a relish. Bits of 
ham may be grated or chopped very fine for sand- 
wiches or omelets, or very highly seasoned as a relish. 
When there is no other use for broth, thicken it with 
an ounce of gelatine to each pint, and clarify it like 
the aspic jelly described in the recipe for boned turkey, 
to use with cold meat. When part of a jar of pre- 
serves or canned fruit is likely to sj)oil, boil the fruit 
and syrup with an equal quantity of vinegar, and so 
make sweet pickles. Grate the dry rind of cheese for 
macaroni. To keep cheese from drying, wrap it in a 
cloth wet in sherry or any Avhite wine; when a pine- 
apple, Edam, or other fine cheese is partly scooped 
out, pour sherry into it to improve the flavor and pre- 
serve it. If milk sours suddenly, drain off the whey 
and serve the bonny-clabber with brown sugar and nut- 
meg, very cold, as a breakfast dish; or scald it until 
the curd sets, and then drain it dry in a cloth laid in 
a sieve, and season it with salt to make cottage or pot 
cheese. These are but few of the waj^s in which waste 
of food can be avoided, and they are offered here mere- 
ly as an indication of the economical results possible 
from an intelligent co-operation between mistress and 
maid. 



SMALL SOCL^ ENTERTAINMENTS. 399 



CHAPTER XXV. 

SMALL SOCIAL ENTERTAINMENTS. 

As our sclieme of living includes some of the pleas- 
ures of entertaining our friends, we may give space to 
outlining a few of the small festivities which can be 
enjoyed with little trouble. The most popular way 
of meeting one's social obligations is the reception of 
visitors on a certain day or days. The day of the 
week is usually engraved upon the visiting-card when 
the intention is to receive on that day throughout the 
entire season. If the time is limited to certain days 
of certain months and to special hours, the specifi- 
cation is indicated upon engraved cards, as, for in- 
stance, " Wednesdays in February, 5 o'clock," being 
engraved on the lower left corner of the visiting-card, 
the address being on the right. If the purpose is to 
give a more formal single reception, the lower left 
corner will bear the inscription, " At Home, Wednes- 
day, February — , from — to — o'clock," the address 
being on the right. All the details of invitation, re- 
ception, toilet, etc., are given in books on social eti- 
quette, of which one of the best is Mrs. Sherwood's 
" Manners and Social Usages in America." The part 
appropriate here concerns the refreshments provided 
for the guests. Although it is not imperative to pro- 
vide any, some simple repast laid upon a side-table 
where one of the ladies receiving presides, or passed 
upon a small tray by a maid, suffices. In the latter 



310 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

case there should be several little tables near the 
guests to receive the cups and plates. The very best 
tea, freshly made, with a few delicate sandwiches, or 
the fancy cakes called by the coniectioners petitsJ^ourSj 
are suitable for any reception; Avine or cordial may be 
served, but tea is preferable; too elaborate refresh- 
ments would be out of place at simple receptions. 

The invitations to teas and kettle-drums bear the 
words, "Tea at 5 o'clock." On such occasions the 
small tables may be disposed about the rooms for the 
convenience of the guests, or the tea-table may be laid 
with more or less elaborate linen and china, and cor- 
sage bouquets may be provided for the guests at will. 
Some special color is often chosen for these teas, and 
it prevails in the linen, china, glass, flowers, and even 
in the toilets. • The tea should be the best obtaina- 
ble, freshly made, and served in delicate china. Rus- 
sian tea is served in thin glass tumblers, each contain- 
ing a spoon and a slice of lemon; sugar is served with 
Russian tea, but no milk. The refreshments may be 
simj^le, and never should be too elaborate; thin bread 
buttered and doubled, dainty sandwiches, small cakes 
and macaroons, are suitable. Coffee may be served; 
oysters and salads are suitable, but too great abun- 
dance is ostentatious. The table is laid as for any tea, 
only care must be taken not to crowd it, and not to 
give a heavy character to the repast. The hot dishes 
suitable for a family tea would be entirely out of 
place. The proper refreshments for evening recep- 
tions are fine cake, chocolate, coffee, fancy biscuits 
and sherry, claret-cup, punch, ices and creams, salads, 
cold entrees, candied fruit and confectionery, houillon, 
tea, egg-nog — in fine, any small dishes, preferably cold, 
and plenty of the chosen beverage. At a wedding 



SMALL SOCIAL ENTERTAINMENTS. 



311 



reception the simplest refreshments are cake and one 
wine; beyond that the range is upward to a full wed- 
ding breakfast. No tea or coffee is served. Wine at 
choice, generally champagne. All the service is laid 
before the guests come to the table. The wedding- 
cake is set before the bride, who cuts the first slice. 
JBoicillon may be served hot in cups, in place of tea or 
coffee, when wine is not used. The more elaborate 
salads, entrees of game and shell-fish, creams, ices, jel- 
lies, and small sweets are suitable dishes. Small boxes 
of wedding-cake, tied with white ribbon, are placed 
ujDon the table for the guests to carry away with them. 
In this, as in other entertainments, the refreshments 
should not be so profuse as to seem ostentatious. 

If the collation is simple at ordinary receptions, it 
may be laid upon a side-table, and served at any time 
after eight o'clock. When there is a set table in a 
supper-room, any hour after ten is proj)er for serving. 
At card parties the best way to serve refreshments is 
upon small tables, so placed that the guests can par- 
take at any time without leaving the card tables. 
Sherry and biscuit; claret-cup or lemonade with fancy 
cakes; crackers and cheese with ale, tea, coffee, or choc- 
olate, with delicate sandwiches, are suitable. If sal- 
ads, oysters, or ices and creams are served, they can be 
best dispensed from a side-table. These refreshments 
are excellent for chess and domino parties, and for any 
informal evening gathering. 

W^hen supper parties are given, either on invitation 
or after an evening's amusement, the service is similar 
to that of luncheons. The table is laid with pretty 
china, a few flowers, the relishes and table sauces. At 
elaborate suppers there is candied fruit or confection- 
ery, but no large sweets. No soup is ever served ex- 



312 FAMILY LIVING ON 1500 A YEAR. 

cept houiUo7i in cups. Stewed oysters or any hot dish 
of oysters; raw oysters on the half-shell may be served 
as at dinner, with cut lemon and brown bread buttered. 
Cold roast game and poultry, or either, broiled and 
served hot, deviled bones, salads, rarebits, toasted 
cheese, terrapin, creams, ices, jellies, the various iced 
" cups " in summer, and punch in winter, or egg-nog, 
or mulled wine, or tea, coffee, or chocolate — all are 
suitable beverages. The wines generally used at sup- 
pers are sherry, Madeira, Burgundy, and champagne. 
Raw oysters, a salad, and a rarebit, with any chosen 
beverage, make an enjoyable sapper; or broiled game 
or chicken, with a green salad and some rich cheese; 
or hot oysters, cold roast chicken, and some ice or jelly; 
or hot houillon^ and sweetbreads with asparagus or 
pease, and a few bonbons. The variety is limited only 
by the season. 

Never was a more delicious supper dreamed of than 
six little oysters on the half-shell, a dish of terrapin, 
and celery ^nayonnaise, and a bit of Roquefort, the 
beverao;e being: left to individual choice. At the 
other financial extreme lies a supper of hot panned 
oysters, a slice of rare roast beef cut thick and dev- 
iled, a plain lettuce salad, and some cheese crusts. 

The recipe for the oysters may be smuggled in be- 
tween lines here because it is but little known. Be- 
fore supper-time have some toast nicely made, and see 
that the oysters are drained and absolutely free from 
bits of shell. For a solid pint put two large table- 
spoonfuls of butter in a frying-pan, and let it begin to 
brown over a hot fire; then put in the oysters with- 
out any liquid, and stir them until the edges begin to 
curl; add a glass of Madeira, pour them upon the 
toast, and eat them very hot, with no regret save that 



SMALL SOCIAL ENTERTAINMENTS. 



313 



the sense of taste is limited by mortality. Gentle- 
men's suppers may be made triumphs of housewifely 
skill. As the hostess never is present at table, she 
can make every dish absolutely perfect, and be sure 
that a chorus of approbation is rising in her praise. 
If tea or coffee is served, the table is laid as for break- 
fast; if wine is used, as for an informal dinner. 

When the supper is elaborate, it may be served in 
courses like a dinner d la Husse, or all the dishes may 
be placed upon the table as soon as the guests are 
seated, and after the first service no attendant need 
remain in the room. If, however, the hostess is at- 
tending in person to the preparation of certain dishes 
for which she is famous, she will do well to send each 
one in at the moment of its perfection. All entrees^ 
hot and cold, the various dressed salads, all kinds of 
fish and shell-fish, highly seasoned relishes, rarebits, 
broiled or deviled poultry and game, and any favor- 
ite small sweet, are suitable. The beverage may be 
tea, coffee, chocolate, malt drinks, or wine, at choice. 
The recipe for an unusual form of chocolate seems in 
place here for use when a sweet beverage is desired. 
It can be made successfully, because the hostess will 
be able to give her entire attention to it. The writer 
learned it from an Indian who had been taus-ht its 
composition in Mexico by an Aztec. The rich, foam- 
ing beverage is well worth all the care required in its 
preparation. Two, three, or four eggs may be used 
to each quart of chocolate, according to the consis- 
tency desired, and three or four of the small cakes of 
sweet chocolate. The quantity of chocolate depends 
upon the taste of the maker, a fair proportion being 
one division about an inch wide and three or four long 
for each half -pint of water. Grate the chocolate or 



314 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

break it in small pieces, put it over the fire in a thick 
saucepan or chocolate pot, and stir it until it softens; 
then stir in a quart of milk to four small cakes of 
chocolate. While the milk is heating, separate the 
yolks of the eggs from the whites, beat the yolks to a 
smooth cream, and the whites to a stiff froth. When 
the chocolate boils, take the pot off the fire, or move 
it where it cannot boil. Dip half a cupful of chocolate 
into the beaten yolks, quickly mix it w^ith them, at 
once pour them with the rest of the chocolate, and 
mix them in with the chocolate stick or a wire egg- 
beater. Next beat in the whites thoroughly, and 
serve the chocolate hot. The success of the beverage 
depends upon the rapidity with which the beaten eggs 
are mixed with the chocolate after it once boils. If it 
w^ere allowed to boil after the eggs are added, they 
would become " curdled " or cooked, of course. As 
chocolate retains heat, there is time enough to blend 
the beaten eggs with it before it cools, when the oper- 
ation is deftly and rapidly accomj^lished. When the 
chocolate is properly made it is a rich, foamy beverage, 
absolutely luscious. Delicate crackers may be served 
with it or English bread-and-butter. A more perfect 
combination than this can scarcely be conceived. 

If one has a steady hand, the " knack " of cutting 
English bread - and - butter can easily be acquired. 
Choose a fresh loaf of home-made bread w^liich has a 
soft even crust, or trim the crust from an uneven loaf 
so that the outside is smooth, and cut off one end 
slice; have a thin, sharp bread knife, plenty of sweet 
butter of the best quality just firm enough to s^^read 
well, and use a knife that will spread it smoothly. 
Hold the loaf with the left hand against the left side; 
upon the smooth-cut end spread a thin, even layer of 



SMALL SOCIAL ENTERTAINMENTS. 3^5 

butter ; then with the sharp bread knife cut a perfect- 
ly even, wafer-like slice off the entire end, and roll it 
together, or fold it so that the buttered side is enclosed. 
As each slice is cut lay it upon the plate intended for 
the table. When all are prepared, set the plate in the 
refrigerator, or where the bread can be kept cool and 
moist until it is wanted for the table. There is but 
one objection to English bread-and-butter — it is such 
an enticing edible that the services of the household 
might be called upon to supply the demands of a lover 
of it. 



316 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

SUNDAY TEAS. 

SuNDAY-NiGHT teas are sometimes occasions of em- 
barrassment to the housekeeper; even if she has two 
servants, one is absent. If it is the waitress, there is 
apt to be trouble in the service of the table; if the 
cook is out, the dishes are likely to be meagre or poor- 
ly prepared. As servants are entitled to some out- 
ings, it may help many of our readers to devote space 
to the situation. First, in regard to the laying of the 
table, if the waitress has not attended to that before 
going out. Unless the meal is to be served in a room 
in general use, the table can be made entirely ready 
at any time, and covered from disturbance with a 
light cloth. The butter may be cut, and placed in the 
refrigerator or some other cool place; the bread made 
ready in the box, with the knife and board available for 
cutting; when biscuits are desired in the absence of the 
cook, it is best to have previously made raised biscuits 
from the bread dough, which need only be covered with 
a wet cloth, and warmed in the oven for about ten min- 
utes before tea - time. The carafes or water - pitcher 
should be clean and ready to fill just before serving 
the tea, and in the absence of the waitress they should 
be placed upon the table so that they can be used by 
any one. If meats or fish are to be served, all the 
proper condiments and cold table sauces and relishes 
should be upon the table, even if the waitress is at 



SUNDAY TEAS. 31 7 

homey because her necessary absences in the kitchen 
will make her service less thorough than usual at table. 
Fresh fruit is not generally served except in berry sea- 
son, and then the necessary dishes are placed before 
the person who is to help the fruit, as is the case when 
preserves are to be used. It is well to have plenty of 
spoons on the table, either laid at the covers with the 
other silver, or in several holders at intervals on the 
table. Both powdered and loaf sugar should also be 
placed there in several bowls; and syrup, if any hot 
cakes are to be served, although it is not advisable to 
undertake these in the absence of the cook. 

To lay the tea-table, first spread the under cloth of 
Canton flannel, then the linen cloth, which may be 
white or of some delicate color, either plain or appro- 
priately embroidered, with napkins to match. Spread 
the cloth smoothly on the table, so that it hangs even- 
ly in all directions, equally far from the floor every- 
where. If table mats are used, place the largest be- 
fore the master's place for the most important dish; 
this will be of meat, fish, or game, if either is served, 
or of milk toast, rarebit, salad, or preserves, if either of 
these constitute the largest dish ; special small plates 
are needed for any of these, and a large spoon and fork 
for helping all except the preserves, which require 
only a spoon. Mats may be laid at the sides for other 
dishes, together with the proper spoon or knife and 
fork for serving them, or for plates of bread, crackers, 
cheese, or small fancy dishes of relishes, such as sar- 
dines, sliced smoked fish, or sausages — all of which 
should have a fork ready for helping them — or for 
dry toast, hot biscuit, or knj other dish. 

The spoon-holder, butter-dish, salt-cellars, and con- 
diment-holders are to be placed at convenient inter- 



318 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

vals, not too stiffly, and at least two large carafes of 
fresh water. A dish of fruit, a few flowers, or the 
relishes in fancy dishes, make the table bright and in- 
viting. At the mistress's place put the cups and 
saucers for tea or coffee at the upper left hand, the 
milk and sugar in the centre, and the stands for the 
tea-pot and coffee-pot at the right hand. Then lay the 
places. At every cover put a fresh napkin, a water- 
glass, individual dishes for salt and butter if they are 
used, or a small fancy plate or large saucer at the up- 
per right to hold the bread, butter, salt, etc.; a special 
small knife is laid with this plate. At the left of the 
cover put the fork, at the right the knife and any 
spoon required; or, if the waitress is absent, lay all the 
silver and cutlery likely to be used during the meal, 
and the regular tea plate. 

If any hot dish is to be served, set the plates and 
dishes required for it ready to put into a pan of hot 
water to heat just before tea-time, and when they are 
hot wipe them and place them in a pile at the cover 
where the hot dish is to be served. If the hot dish is 
to be passed by the waitress, let her lay a hot plate at 
each cover just before serving the dish. Make sure 
that everything is upon the table, or within easy reach, 
that will be needed for the tea, and then close the 
room until just before the meal is to be served. At 
that time put the fresh water, butter, bread, cheese, 
and any cold dishes upon the table, and ^Drepare and 
serve the tea and hot dishes. Preferably these should 
be few in the cook's absence, for there are many ex- 
cellent cold ones that can be made ready in advance, 
a few of which are indicated below. The waitress 
might make a rarebit, an omelet, or milk toast, or 
pan some oysters, or devil some bones or cold poul- 



SUNDAY TEAS. 3^9 

try or game. Recipes for these dishes are in place 
here. 

Rarebits are usually made with ale, but for the bene- 
fit of people who do not wish to use it the suggestion is 
made to substitute for it the yolk of a raw egg beaten 
with a half -cupful of sweet milk. Otherwise proceed as 
follows: put in a small saucepan two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, a quarter of a pound of cheese grated, a salt- 
spoonful each of salt and dry mustard, a quarter of a 
saltspoonful of pepper, a dust of cayenne, and two 
tablespoonfuls of ale; stir these ingredients over the 
fire until they are melted, and then pour them on 
toast, and serve the rarebit at once. If a plate of dry 
toast is prepared in advance, the rarebit may be made 
in a chafing-dish at table. 

The best omelet for tea is made by beating sepa- 
rately the yolks and whites of three eggs, adding the 
desired seasoning, and at once cooking the omelet in a 
hot pan containing a teaspoonful of butter (it can be 
made in a chafing - dish at the table) ; beat the yolks 
with a saltspoonful of salt and quarter that quantity 
of pepper; beat the whites to a stiff froth; lightly 
mix them a little, put them into the hot buttered pan, 
with a fork constantly lift the cooked portion from the 
pan and throw it to one side until the omelet is done 
enough ; then lightly loosen it from the pan, turn it 
out by holding a hot dish over the side of the pan, and 
serve it at once. If the salt and pepper are omitted, 
the omelet sweetened and flavored to suit the palate, 
it affords an agreeable change. 

The toast for milk toast may be prepared in ad- 
vance, and the cream sauce also, which can be melted 
when needed, or made in a chafing-dish, if desired; 
for each pint of the sauce stir together in a saucepan 



320 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

over the fire a tablespoonful eacli of butter and dry 
flour until they are smoothly blended; then gradually 
stir in a pint of milk, or milk and water, and an even 
teaspoonful of salt; as soon as the sauce boils pour 
it over the toast and serve it; to warm it when it has 
been prepared in advance, put the saucepan containing 
it in a pan of boiling water over the fire and stir it 
until it is hot. 

To pan oysters have some toast made in advance, 
and the oysters drained and carefully freed from all 
particles of shell; for each solid pint of oysters put in 
a frying-pan two heaping tablespoonful s of butter, and 
let it brown quickly; then put in the oysters, and stir 
them until their edges curl, dust them with cayenne, 
and at once pour them upon the toast and serve them. 
For Maryland panned oysters, a glass of sherry or Ma- 
deira at the moment of dishing them. The oysters 
can be prepared at table in a chafing-dish. 

Poultry, game, and bones are deviled as follows : 
deep cuts are made in the pieces, reaching to the bone, 
and the seasoning rubbed into the cuts; the joints are 
then either broiled on a buttered gridiron, or heated in 
any highly seasoned sauce or gravy at the table ; the 
seasoning is made by mixing together for each pound 
of meat two tablespoonfuls of dry mustard, one of 
flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of pepper, 
a liberal dust of cayenne, and enough vinegar or any 
good table sauce to form a paste which can be put 
into the cuts in the meat. 

As will be seen, nearly all these dishes can be made 
partly ready in advance, and easily finished at tea- 
time. Among the dishes of larger size that the cook 
can prepare in advance to serve cold are chicken salad, 
for which a recipe is given on another page ; chicken 



SUNDAY TEAS. 321 

croquettes, which can be laid as soon as fried upon 
bfiown paper in a dripping-pan and kept in a dry place 
until time to put the pan into the oven to heat just 
before tea-time; berry or canned-fruit short-cake; sev- 
eral fruit salads mentioned elsewhere; the galantines of 
boned poultry, and the various potted meats, fish, and 
same which are f ullv described. Cold rare roast beef 
cut thick, seasoned with salt and pepper, quickly broiled 
at a hot fire, and served with a little sweet butter, 
makes a good, hearty dish. Cold lamb or mutton sliced 
thin, and warmed in its own sauce or gravy; any kind 
of cold fish heated in white sauce; smoked salmon, hali- 
but, sturgeon, or mackerel scalded and then broiled; 
salt fish several times heated in water and then mixed 
with scrambled eggs; dried beef cooked with scram- 
bled eggs or in white sauce — these are but a few of 
the many little dishes entirely suitable for Sunday- 
night teas. Then there should never be forgotten 
canned salmon; this may be simply heated and sea- 
soned with salt and pepper, or heated in white sauce, 
or served with 7nayo7inaise, or chopped and heated 
with cold mashed potatoes, or heated and served in 
the midst of a dish of canned pease turned from the can, 
rinsed with cold water, and then heated with salt, pep- 
per, and butter, or with a little white sauce. 

As a matter of fact, this meal that so often is most 
uninviting can be made one of the most delicate and 
savory if the housekeeper will give a little care to its 
preparation, and remember that a single hot dish, how- 
ever small, gives a zest that is lacking to any cold food 
except the more delicate salads and expensive luxuries. 
The various scalloped dishes can be made ready all ex- 
cept the final browning, and we cannot close better 
than by giving the recipe for scalloped chicken. Any 
21 



322 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

kind of poultry, game, meat, fish, or vegetables can 
be served in the same way. Use equal quantities of 
cliopped chicken, free from bones, and bread crumbs, 
and enough white sauce or any good gravy to moisten 
the dish; put the chicken and crumbs in layers in an 
earthen dish suitable to send to the table, or in indi- 
vidual scallop shells; season rather highly with salt 
and white pepper or cayenne; moisten with sauce, and 
cover the top with sifted crumbs; dot the crumbs with 
bits of butter. Fifteen minutes in a hot oven will pre- 
pare this dish for the table, and it is to be served hot. 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPERS. 



323 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

LUNCHEON AND SUPPERS. 

The Canton flannel under table - cloth has been 
spoken of as improving the appearance of the upper 
cloth, and saving the dining-table from the spots made 
by heated dishes; this is of imi^ortance when table 
mats are not used. After all, the use of the mats is 
general upon family tables although they are banished 
from formal feasts. 

To lay the table for luncheon proceed as for break- 
fast. The coffee or tea equipage is to be arranged 
before the seat of the mistress, a large tray not now 
being used unless because of some special preference. 
Place the cups and saucers at the upper left, the sugar, 
milk, and cream about the centre, and the mats or 
stands for tea and coffee at the right hand ; if a table- 
bell is used, it should be where the mistress can easily 
reach it. A table mat or large napkin should be at 
the other end of the table, before the master's place, 
and others at the sides for various dishes. 

The old-fashioned caster is no longer used in the 
centre of the table unless there is special direction 
given by the mistress; the condiments are on the table 
in their original bottles, or in fancy stands in flasks. 
When small salt-cellars are used, one is at each place, 
but the preference now is for large salt-cellars and 
fancy pepper-boxes at different parts of the table. A 
low stand for fruit or flowers is in place in the middle 



324 FAIVIILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

of the table, and small fancy dishes of olives, pickles, 
radishes, and the various small relishes are placed 
wherever they look well. The aspect of the table 
should be bright, and not too regular or formal. At 
dinner and large luncheons salted almonds or peanuts 
and some rich cheese have place among the relishes; 
sardines, small bits of various salted fish, and thin 
slices of imported dried sausage are also served. 

At each place there is a napkin with a thick piece 
of bread laid on it, a knife and fork, and spoon if there 
is soup; teaspoons are laid with the service of the dish 
for which they are required, or placed on the family 
table in the usual holder, with the handles U23ward; a 
small piece of chamois or felt in the bottom of a glass 
or china spoon-holder often saves breakage. When 
more than one course is to be served, as many forks 
and knives as will be required are laid at first, if there 
are plenty, the forks at the left, the knives at the right; 
an extra small knife for butter is convenient, and a 
small fancy plate at the upper right hand for holding 
salt, bread, butter, and the various relishes is really 
an admirable thing. The water-glass is at the uj^per 
front of the place, and any extra glass likely to be 
used; carafes full of cool, fresh water are upon the ta- 
ble, or water is poured from the pitcher by the waitress 
directly the party are seated. The water should al- 
ways be freshly drawn, and in summer made cool by 
ice, and enough of it may be drank to quench the 
thirst. It is an error to think that the use of moder- 
ately cool water affects the action of the gastric juice 
in any way. Milk may be drank at meals, but it is a 
food and not a beverage, and has but little effect in 
quenching thirst; skim-milk and buttermilk do quench 
thirst to a degree. Tea and coffee should be served 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPERS. 325 

veiy hot, and hot milk always with coffee; both these 
beverao'es retard the di^'estion and assimilation of food 

CD Cj 

when used excessively. 

All the dishes likely to be needed for the meal should 
either be in the dining-room or in one place in the 
kitchen being heated; unless there is a regular dish- 
heater, the best method is to put the plates into a 
large pan of hot water, and wipe them as they are 
needed for the table ; heating dishes in the oven 
cracks the glaze, and often the dish. Hot plates are 
needed for everything except oatmeal, fruit, salad, rav/ 
oysters, cheese, and the various sweets. 

Unless special orders have been given otherwise, it 
is not well to put any food upon the table until the 
family is seated, unless raw oysters are served. They 
may be arranged in the shells on a plate, with a piece 
of lemon in the centre, and the small oyster fork laid 
across them. Two plates of brown bread, cut thin, 
buttered, and folded together, should be on the table 
to eat with the oysters, and an extra plate of white 
bread. Some persons serve crackers with oysters, and 
celery or a dish of cold-slaw. Small oyster crackers 
are served with stewed oysters. 

Unless there is this service of oysters or of soup at 
luncheon, the various dishes composing it are brought 
to the table directly the mistress is seated. The hot 
drinks are before her, the largest dish at the opposite 
end or side of the table, and the smaller ones within 
easy reach at the sides. If the luncheon is formal, the 
dishes which compose each course are served together, 
and the plates are changed with each course, as at 
dinner. 

In Avaiting at luncheon, as at other meals, the meats 
or large hot dishes are served by the person before 



326 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

whom they are placed, on plates set wpon the table. 
The waitress takes each plate from the left, and carries 
it on a salver, holding it at the left of the guest, or 
placing it upon the table. The tea, coffee, and water 
are placed at the right hand; the plates, etc., changed 
from the right. Remember it is the easiest to set 
things upon the table from the right hand, and to hold 
the tray at the left of the person who has to take any- 
thing from it, and it is decidedly preferable for the 
person served to take whatever is being passed from 
the tray at the left hand. 

As soon as the large hot dish is served, put the other 
dishes in succession upon the tray and pass them as 
rapidly as possible. Always pass the proper sauce 
with every dish, and take care that there is a spoon, 
with the handle towards the guest, and a fork if it is 
needed in the service of the dish. When it is neces- 
sary to hold a dish in the hand, cover the hand with a 
perfectly clean napkin. Always wear a spotless apron, 
and carry a clean napkin. Be very neat in using this 
napkin; only use it to hold the dishes with. If by any 
accident one needs wiping, have a clean towel in readi- 
ness at the side-table. Nothing so marks a slovenly 
waiter as the habit of polishing everything within 
reach with the one napkin. 

If there are crumbs upon the cloth, they can be re- 
moved more easily with a small napkin or a large sil- 
ver knife than with a crumb-brush, which is awkward 
to handle, and apt to scatter the crumbs. Finger- 
bowls are not generally used at ordinary luncheons, 
but there is no reason why they should be banished if 
they are needed. 

In some families where only one or two ladies lunch, 
the service is often made upon a large tray in the sit- 



LUNCHEON AND SUPPERS. 327 

ting-room. Upon the tray place a large clean napkin, 
the water glass and carafe^ salt, pepper, bread, butter, 
milk and sugar if there is tea or coffee, a napkin, the 
necessary silver, and the luncheon itself. Carry the 
tray to the room where it is to be served, and either 
place the tray upon a table, or lay the luncheon on a 
cloth or on the table, according to directions. Be sure 
to carry at first everything required, and have warm 
dishes for hot food. Perform this small service as care- 
fully as at table, and remember to have every dish 
dainty and appetizing. 

Teas and suppers are served very much like lunch- 
eons, except that the bread is not put upon the nap- 
kins, but is served on the table in plates. In warm 
weather there is generally ice in the butter dish at all 
meals, and ice is used to cool the drinking water. Sup- 
pers are generally late meals improvised after a busy 
evening or some out-door pleasuring. The table is 
laid in an informal way with the necessary dishes and 
viands, care being taken to have plenty of condiments 
and relishes, because the meats are generally served 
cold. Cheese, crackers, rarebits, broiled bones, oysters, 
cold meat or poultry, game, salads, crackers, and bread- 
and-butter are the usual dishes, all being placed upon 
the table. 

Gentlemen's suppers are more elaborate, and where 
they are affairs of invitation the table should be laid 
as carefully as for a formal luncheon when tea or cof- 
fee are to be served; or in dinner style when wine or 
punch is to be the beverage. The service for black 
coffee should always be upon the side-table for those 
who do not wish to use wine. Malt beverages, cocoa, 
or chocolate may be used. All the small, hot, highly 
seasoned dishes are suitable, together with salads, oys- 



328 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

ters, rarebits, game, any sweets desired, and plenty of 
relishes. The number of dishes depends upon choice, 
but all should be excellent. Flowers and fruit may 
be used. All the dishes are placed on the table at 
once, and after the first service the guests wait upon 
themselves. 



CARVING AND SERVING. 



129 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

CARVING AND SERVING. 

One of the most trying duties of the inexperienced 
housekeeper is the proper service of dishes. If she is 
fortunate enough to have them brought to table well 
cooked, they may be spoiled in the serving unless the 
person helping them understands how to carve them. 
To explain the mysteries of carving, w^ithout the ob- 
ject before one, or without the aid of diagrams, seems 
almost a hopeless task; but let us attempt it, referring 
the readers to illustrations given in " Practical Ameri- 
can Cookery" for details beyond present treatment. 
The most familiar dish upon ordinary American tables 
is beefsteak. In steaks cut from the chuck and round 
all parts are equally tender and well flavored, so that 
the carving resolves itself into the question of whether 
the person to be helped prefers fat or lean, well-done 
or rare portions. In sirloin steak that part near the 
end bone and below the bone running at a right angle 
from the former is the tenderest; the upper part, called 
by the butchers the " top sirloin," is the most highly 
flavored and nutritious; the part nearest the small end 
is composed of loose, large .fibres, tougher than the 
more compact parts, and less easy of mastication and 
digestion; it is w^ell-flavored and nutritious. 

The same portions of loin chops are similarly consti- 
tuted; shoulder chops are the sweetest and leanest, and 
rib chops are moderately tender; cutlets from the leg 



330 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

are lean, well-flavored, and lender, if the meat has 
been kept long enough. Yeal-cutlets from the leg are 
tender and lean; loin chops are fatter, and include a 
portion of the Jilet or tenderloin; rib and neck cuts are 
lean and sweet. As veal is larger than mutton, it is 
sometimes necessary to divide the chops; this should 
be done so as to give the eater the preferred portion. 

The legs, shoulders, breasts, and loins of pork, lamb, 
mutton, and veal are carved in the same way; the loins 
are cut through, in the divisions indicated by the cracks 
or cuts through the chine or backbone, in moderately 
thick slices. When force-meat or stuffing is part of 
the dish, it should be put uj^on the plates at the choice 
of the eater; if the loin has been boned, the cuts are 
made down through the meat and stuffing, beginning 
at the right end. The breast is often boned and rolled, 
and then is sliced from the right end; when the bones 
are left in they are cracked, so that the carver can fol- 
low beside them in carving. 

Shoulders boned are carved from the largest end, 
care being taken to serve each plate with a portion of 
the stuffing and some of the crisj) brown surface. If 
the bone remains, the slices are cut from the outside 
down to the bone, through the thickest part, crossing 
the grain of the flesh, and a small slice of fat is served 
on each plate; unless the shoulder-blade has been re- 
moved, it is necessary to cut from beneath as well as 
above it in order to serve the choice parts. 

Legs are carved through the thickest part, directly 
across the grain of the flesh, from the outside down to 
the bone, a portion of the fat being served on each 
plate. The choice portion lies at the largest end, 
where the flesh is the most abundant; the lower end 
of the leg is somewhat stringy, unless the meat is 



CARVING AND SERVING. 33 j 

young and thoroiigbly cooked. In carving roast pork 
care must be taken to place a portion of the crisp 
brown " crackling " on every plate. 

Roast beef is served in ribs, loins (boned and rolled), 
and as filet or tenderloin; the latter is sliced down 
from the right end, a small bit of the choice fat being 
put on each plate. When the bones of the ribs have 
been removed, and the beef rolled before roasting, the 
carving consists in simply cutting slices from the end 
across the grain of the meat. There is no question 
that this is the best way to serve roast beef. The 
bones can be taken out without mano-linq* or wasting: 
the meat, the roll made compact, and secured with 
stout cord, which is removed before sending the beef 
to table; skewers do not keep the meat in good shape 
while it is being cooked, and they make holes which 
permit the juice to escape. If the meat is cooked 
only until it is purple in hue, the fibres will still be 
elastic enough to partly straighten when the string or 
skewer is removed, and consequently the meat will 
not retain the shape in which it was secured before 
cooking. When the beef is cooked medium rare 
— that is, until it is pink — the shape of the roll will 
remain if it has been properly tied. 

Of course all the bones are to be used for soup, 
either when cut out before cooking or saved after the 
carving; but bones which have flour gravy on them 
are used only in thick or brown soups. The sirloin of 
beef is not usually boned, and consequently is carved 
in another way. As it lies upon the platter, with 
the tenderloin underneath, the upper portion is first 
carved by cutting slices across the grain of the meat 
the entire length from the backbone to the thin end; 
to reach the tenderloin it is necessary to turn the meat; 



332 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

cut in the same way across the grain, and include in 
the slice a portion of the savory fat under the thin end 
of the meat. A portion of the gravy which flows in 
carving medium rare beef is esteemed by all lovers of 
good living; for delicate children and invalids it is in- 
valuable, because it contains some of the best qualities 
of the beef. Any which remains on the dish after din- 
ner should be carefully saved for their use. 

The carving of fish is not difficult if the fact is re- 
membered that the backbone is jointed, and that the 
largest side bones project from it; a skilful use of the 
fork will break the backbone at any joint, and then, by 
sliding the fish-knife between the flesh and the project- 
ing side-bones which enclose the entrails of the fish, 
portions can be lifted off in suitable sizes, or cuts can 
be made down through the entire fish, leaving the 
bones within the slices. The thin part below the neck 
and the cheeks of some fish are highly esteemed. 
When a fish is stuffed a portion of the force-meat 
should be served with each slice. A dish of plain 
boiled potatoes and a sauce are the usual accompani- 
ments of fish at dinner, and both are put upon the plate 
with it. Broiled fish, which should be split down the 
back and freed from the largest bones, is very easily 
carved; when the roe is served a small piece should 
accompany each portion. The fact is not known to 
all housekeepers that the roes and milts of all fish are 
edible, and also the livers of those which are not too 
oily; they can be broiled, or fried, or made into a 
ragoiit with any chosen sauce. 

Game in joints is carved very like mutton. The 
English method of carving venison is to cut long slices 
parallel with the backbone from end to end of a loin 
or saddle, cutting from the outside down to the bone 



CARVING AND SERVING. 



333 



which runs at right angles from the backbone and sep- 
arates the tenderloin from the top cut. When veni- 
son is very lean, the fat of choice mutton is cooked 
with it, and a small portion served with each slice; 
like mutton, venison should be served on very hot 
plates, and with currant or some other acid jelly or 
jelly sauce. 

Squirrels, rabbits, and hares are cut in joints and 
ribs, several of the latter in one piece. 

The smallest game birds are served w^hole; those 
the size of large woodcock are cut in halves. The 
breasts of pheasant and partridge are cut in two pieces 
only w^hen the service is abundant, or in several parts 
when the suj)ply is limited. Only the breast of wild- 
duck is carved, because the birds are best liked when 
cooked rare; the remainder is used for a ragoilt or 
salmi. When there is plenty of duck, half the breast 
is served on each plate. 

Canvas-back duck is carved in two portions only, or, 
when there is plenty, an entire breast is a feast for an 
epicure. If it is necessary to make one duck serve 
several persons, cut the breast in thick slices from the 
outside down to the breastbone; use a sharp knife, and 
do not remove a single slice until the entire breast is 
carved. This should be done as quickly as possible in 
order to preserve all the gravy, and the service should 
be upon hot plates, with currant or damson jelly, or 
jelly and mustard sauce. Broiled game birds are split 
dowm the back, and the heads are left on. 

Serve small birds entire; cut the medium-size ones 
in halves. If there is an abundant supply, serve only 
the breasts of large birds. When it is necessary to 
use the entire bird, quarter it, and give the breast to 
the ladies. 



334 FAMILY LIVING ON |500 A YEAR. 

Broiled chickens, when small, are cut in halves, the 
larger ones in quarters; all portions are good. When 
a chicken is too large to serve in quarters, it is gener- 
ally too old to broil. The flesh about the joints of 
broiled chicken should be cooked until the juice is no 
longer red. Only the breast of roast domestic ducks 
and geese is served when there is an abundance; they 
are carved by cutting from the outside straight down 
to the breastbone. When it is necessary to serve the 
entire bird, carve it like roast turkey. 

Roast turkey and chicken are similarly carved. An 
expert carver can divide poultry without removing the 
fork from the breastbone or turning the bird on the 
dish, but a beginner w^ill do well to have a small fork 
at hand for the purpose of laying cut portions aside 
as the carving progresses. Turn the bird so that the 
carving-fork can be held in the left hand and firmly 
fixed in the breastbone, and use a very sharp knife 
with a small, flexible blade. First cut off both drum- 
sticks at the knee-joint, and then remove the second 
joints. With a tender bird this is not a difiicult mat- 
ter; but both strength and skill are needed to cope 
successfully with a tough or underdone turkey, be- 
cause very strong sinews are plentiful all about the 
leg joints. Next cut off the first joints of the wings, 
or the pinions, and then the joints nearest the body. 
This method of cutting off the first joints of the legs 
and w' ings before separating them from the body saves 
that troublesome feat of holding those members while 
they are being disjointed after being removed from 
the bird; frequently they slip about on the platter 
and spatter the dish gravy. 

After the wdngs are removed cut off the merry- 
thought, or wish-bone, and then the wing side-bones 



CARVING AND SERVING. 335 

which hold the breast to the backbone; then carve the 
breast in medium thin slices, and serve the bird, giving 
gravy and stuffing on each plate. If the diners are 
numerous it may be necessary to cut off more of the 
flesh, and even to dismember the carcass; this can be 
done with more or less ease as the carver understands 
the anatomy of the bird. If a carver would study the 
location of the joints while carving, and take the trouble 
to cut up several carcasses by striking the points where 
the bones are jointed together, subsequent carving 
would be easy. The joints of all birds are similarly 
placed, so nearly identical in point of junction that 
one is a guide to all others. The detail of carving 
poultry, with illustrations and full explanations, can be 
found in the writer's " Practical Americail Cookery," 
but if these remarks are studied they will help the 
learner to acquire this useful art. 

In planning a little dinner, three things are to be 
considered — facility in its preparation and service, mod- 
eration in its cost, and its suitability to the needs of 
the family. If there are diverse tastes, as naturally 
there may be, they can be met by serving several small 
dishes rather -than one or two large ones. The fact is 
pretty generally conceded that the favor with which 
any dish is received depends upon its appearance and 
flavor. It does not take long to make the cook un- 
derstand whether single or combined seasonings are 
most acceptable, or whether they are liked mild or 
high. The merest novice in cookery will soon learn 
that while an unseasoned dish is the most " flat, stale, 
and unprofitable" of all things, she cannot safely over- 
charge her productions with any condiment. It is 
easy enough to add seasoning at the table, but almost 
impossible to redeem the taste of an overseasoned dish; 



336 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

however, the too pungent taste of pepper can be some- 
what modified by the addition of a little warm milk 
to the dish containing it; and the excess of salt can be 
partly overcome by mixing with an oversalted soup, 
sauce, or stewed dish a teaspoonful of sugar and a 
tablespoonful of vinegar to each quart of the liquid 
or semi-liquid food. Of course it is understood that 
all salted and dried articles of food are to be partly 
freshened by being soaked for several hours in cold 
or warm water before they are cooked. 

Secondary only to the flavor of a dish is its appear- 
ance. The foreign usage of garnishing dishes is gain- 
ing favor rapidly; in most cultured households as 
much care is given to the daily service at table as 
when strangers are expected. A cook or general ser-" 
vant who cannot be made to appreciate the difference 
between a pretty dish and one dashed together hap- 
hazard does not promise mucli satisfaction. Even if 
there are no green vegetables or lemon available, the 
food can be so neatly dished as to gain the inviting 
aspect which appeals to the appetite. If it is dry or 
solid, like potatoes, cauliflower, boiled or fried fish, 
breaded meat or poultry, it can be served upon a clean 
napkin, or on the perforated papers intended for such 
use. When there is a sauce, the bottom of the dish 
can be covered with it, the food laid upon the sauce 
without splashing it over the edge of the dish, and the 
rest of the sauce sent to the table in a bowl. 

The more tender vegetables, Avliich are served upon 
toast, such as asparagus, kale, elder and poke berry 
shoots, can be so arranged as to make a pretty dish ; 
the toast is intended to serve the purpose of a napkin 
in absorbing the water that may drain fi'om the veg- 
etables, but in this country it is sometimes eaten. If 



CARVING AND SERVING. 



337 



that is intended, it should be very carefully made, and 
seasoned with a little salt, pepper, and butter: a very 
correct diner might think the napkin could be eaten 
with equal propriety. The toast served under birds 
or game is esteemed a tidbit, because it receives the 
trail and gravy; it is all the more delicious if it can 
be placed under the bird while it is being cooked with- 
out burning. 

Chops and steaks can be garnished with fried pota- 
toes, sliced lemon, parsley, or a few green leaves of 
any salad vegetable, such as celery, endive, w^ater- 
cress, lettuce, dandelion, fetticus or corn-salad, the 
tender tops of oyster-plant, a little shaved cabbage, or 
uncooked tomatoes. 

A border of rice or maslied potatoes makes a good 
garnish for a curry or a fricassee. Potatoes baked in 
the pan with meat, or potato or plain rice croquettes, 
are a good garnish for roast meat and poultry, as also 
are stuffed potatoes and tomatoes. Green pease and 
string beans, cooked so as to preserve their color, and 
mixed wdth little cubes of boiled carrot and turnip, 
make a good garnish for boiled, braised, or baked meat 
or poultry. In winter the carrots and turnips can be 
interspersed w^ith beets so boiled as to retain their 
color, and then peeled and cut in small dice. The 
garnish of fried bread is referred to in the directions 
for making a dish of the giblets of poultry. These 
crusts, or croHtons, are preferable to toasted bread as 
a garnish because they are more savory, and they re- 
tain their crispness for some little time, while the 
toasted bread soon becomes saturated with the sauce 
or gravy. AVhen it is not convenient to fry the bread, 
it can be buttered and put into a very hot oven until 
it is crisp and brown. 
22 



338 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

THE SERVICE OF DINNER. 

In preparing for a special service the dining-room 
should first be made scrupulously clean, then vi^ell 
warmed to a moderate temperature, and pleasantly 
lighted. The number of guests indicated, the cloth 
should be laid smoothly over the under cloth of Can- 
ton flannel, and the covers or places arranged; all the 
covers should be laid exactly alike, so that the effect 
of the table may be symmetrical. If there is plenty 
of silver and cutlery, as many knives, forks, and spoons 
as are likely to be used during the course should be 
arranged thus: at the left side the forks and a large 
spoon, at the right the knives, and above the water- 
tumbler and the receptacles for salt and butter; when 
oysters are served, the plate containing them is set. 
upon another plate in the centre of the cover — this 
necessitates laying the napkin beside the forks instead 
of between the forks and knives. The piece of bread 
for dinner is cut thick, and not more than three inches 
across; it should be laid upon the napkin so as to be 
seen; for a family dinner a plate of similar pieces of 
bread is put upon the table, for more formal service 
upon the sideboard ready to be passed. The small 
salt-cellars and butter plates are used at will, or large 
salt-cellars are placed near the ends of the table, with 
spoons laid ujoon them, and pepper casters near them; 
in such case a small fancy plate may be laid at each 



THE SERVICE OP DINNER. 339 

cover to receive the salt, butter, bread, and relishes, 
and a small, pretty knife beside it. 

Although some people follow the European way of 
not using butter at dinner, it will ahvays hold its place 
on the typical American dinner-table ; it should al- 
ways be cold enough to be firm, but not too hard to 
be readily cut; small squares and little pats or balls 
can be laid in ice- water or in salt-and-water until just 
before serving, or a piece of ice can be placed inside 
the butter dish; it is well to place a few of the small 
pieces on the table, and have others in reserve in the 
cold water. 

When any beverage except water is to be served, 
the proper glasses are arranged at the upper part of 
the cover. The proper knives, forks, and sjDOons for 
serving the various dishes should be arranged at the 
covers where the dishes are to be 2:)laced, together with 
the plates required if the dish is cold; if it is hot, the 
plates are to be brought to the table with it. When 
table-mats are used they should be placed vrhere they 
belong, otherwise a large, fine napkin should be laid 
where any large dish containing sauce is to be served 
or anv carvins: is to be done. 

The centre of the table sometimes has a fanciful 
square or width of embroidery or cq?2:>lique^ or a mass 
of flowers or foliage where the caster or epergne was 
formerly placed; the caster is seldom used now, the 
various table-sauces and relishes now being put upon 
the table in their original bottles or set on the side- 
board; the relishes, such as olives, salted nuts, gher- 
kins, salami, etc., are disi3ersed about the table in 
small, pretty dishes. Usually a low mass of flowers 
or a dish of fruit is in the middle of the table; the 
entire picture depends upon the taste of the one who 



340 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



lays the table. The mistress will do well to make a 
careful inspection before the time of service arrives, 
to make sure that all things needful are either upon 
the table or sideboard; and unless there is plenty of 
silver, arrangements should be made for quickly wash- 
ing it with hot water and soap and drying it with 
clean towels. 

The laying and serving of a small comj^any dinner 
is a matter of interest to many housekeepers who do 
not wish to serve d la Russe. There is a happy com- 
bination of methods which will answer admirably for 
the smaller dinners, calculated for the attendance of 
one servant. In using this form of service, indicated 
by the diagram, the housekeeper will do well to trace 
four outlines upon paper that will not tear, to write 
upon each the names of the dishes Avhich constitute 
the different courses, putting the name of each dish in 
the place where she wishes it to be placed upon the 
table. For instance, let the diagram on opposite page 
represent the first course; in the place where the fig- 
ures appear on it let the name of the proper dish be 
written, according to the list given below the diagram, 
each list being supposed to represent a course, and the 
service of the dinner being made in four courses, as 
follows: in the first course let the fish, soup, boiled po- 
tatoes, and cucumbers be placed upon the table, to be 
served as indicated hereafter. After the course has 
been finished and the dishes removed, let the second 
course be served, the dishes being placed as follows: 
the principal dish of the course at No. 2, for the host 
to serve; if there is a second entree^ place it before the 
hostess at No. 1; otherwise put there the principal 
vegetable, and the others at Nos. 3 and 4. In the 
third course place the roast before the host at No. 2, 



THE SERVICE OF DINNER. 



341 




342 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the salad at No. 1, with the oil, vinegar, salt, and pep- 
per within reach; at Nos. 3 and 4 put the cheese and 
crackers, which many persons like to eat with a green 
salad. After the roast and salad have been eaten, the 
table is to be cleared of all things except the cheese, 
crackers, and the dishes belonging to the dessert; the 
crumbs are to be removed, the finger-bowls placed ac- 
cording to the directions given elsewhere, and the 
chief dessert dish placed before the hostess at No. 1. 
At Nos. 2, 3, and 4 the smaller dessert, such as candied 
fruit, macaroons, etc. ; if nuts are served the salt should 
be returned to the table. 

This is the outline for a simple dinner for six or 
eight persons. A servant who knows what she has to 
do, and is not likely to become nervous, can easily at- 
tend to that number at table, especially if the guests 
are friends or congenial people. The diagram shows 
the table properly laid for a small dinner company, 
and quite suitable for family service, because the wise 
hostess will be equally well served at all times. Flow- 
ers, the finest linen, china, and silver will not be used 
daily; but a dish of seasonable fruit or nuts and raisins 
can be placed in the centre of the table where the 
flowers might be, and the daily service made as deli- 
cately and exactly as upon more ceremonious occasions. 
If such careful service is an every-day matter, there 
need be no confusion wdien an unexpected guest is pro- 
duced by the hospitable master of the house. This 
fact should be remembered: the more ceremonious 
the dinner, the greater time there is for service, and 
more opportunity occurs for general conversation. 
All this assists the service of unaccustomed atten- 
dants. 



THE SERVICE OF DINNER. 



343 



LIST OF SERVICE BY COURSES. 



FIRST COUIiSE, 

1. Soup. 

2. Fish. 

3. Boiled potatoes. 

4. Cucumbers. 

SECOND COUIISE. 

1. Small entree or vegetable. 

2. Principal dish of course. 

3. Vegetable. 

4. Vegetable. 



THIRD COURSE. 

1. The salad. 

2. The roast. 

3. Cheese. 

4. Crackers. 

FOURTH COURSE. 

1. Principal dessert dish. 

2. Some small sweet. 

3. Macaroons, 

4. Candied fruit or nuts. 



After the dinner-table has been laid, the service of 
the various dishes is to be considered. The maid 
should understand what dishes are to be brought to 
the table at the same time, in what order all are to be 
removed, and how the table is to be arranged for the 
course next in service. Less for the purpose of for- 
mality than convenience, the dinner should be served 
in courses; that is, the dishes which are to be served 
at the same time may be designated as a course. 

The soup (which the hostess serves) and the fish 
may come in the same course, because many persons 
eat but a few spoonfuls of soup ; while they are taking 
this the fish may be placed before the host, who may 
at once begin to serve it. The fish sauce in its boat 
should be at the right side of the dish, and plain boiled 
potatoes, in an open vegetable dish, near the fish. The 
only covering permissible for boiled potatoes is a clean 
napkin, but this may be omitted. The dish of pota- 
toes may be passed when the plate of fish is laid be- 
fore the guest, but the service is facilitated if a potato 
is laid upon the plate with the fish ; the sauce is to be 
put upon the fish when it is laid on the plate. As 
each guest finishes the soup the plate should be re- 



344 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

moved at once, and rei^laced Avith tbe plate of fisb; 
this is to be removed in its turn, and then the guest is 
supposed to occupy the time until the service of the 
next course with the various relishes upon the table. 

If there is only one attendant the guests assist each 
other to the relishes, to bread, water, etc. In this 
event carafes containing cool water, placed upon the 
table, are preferable to a water pitcher. A bowl of 
cracked ice is quite in place upon the table where the 
company is small and there is only one waiter. A 
way of freezing the water in the carafes is described 
by the author in her "Practical American Cookery." 

A few words about serving shell-fish at dinner. If 
raw 03^sters or clams are included in the dinner, they 
should be arranged in their shells upon cold plates, 
with a piece of lemon in the centre of each plate, and 
the oyster fork laid upon them. Care should be taken 
to remove every particle of broken shell from the 
oysters, and they should be very cold ; the plates con- 
taining them are set on dinner plates, and put at each 
place at the table before the guests enter the din- 
ing-room. Althoucrh crackers are served with them 
at informal dinners, the choice accompaniment is 
brown bread cut very thin, buttered, and folded to- 
gether; plates of this are at each end of the table. 
While the oysters are being eaten, the soup may be 
placed before the mistress, with the ladle and plates 
convenient for her to serve it. As she fills each plate 
the waitress should take it from the left, put it on a 
small tray, and either pass it at the guest's left hand 
or place it upon the table by reaching over the right 
shoulder. The soup plates can be removed by the 
waitress as soon as each diner has finished eating, and 
either left in a pile on the side-table near the door, 



THE SERVICE OF DINNER. 



345 



ready to be removed, or put at once into the butler's 
pantry. 

If there is any scarcity of spoons, a jar or pitcher 
of hot water containing a little washing-soda should 
be ready to receive them, and a clean towel laid by it 
for drying them. Both plates and spoons should be 
handled carefully and v/ithout noise. An expert wait- 
ress will never lose time by idly waiting for any course 
to be finished by all the guests; she will be making 
ready for the service of the next dish, removing empty 
plates and soiled silver and cutlery as soon as she sees 
that they are no longer being used. She Avill be pre- 
pared to remedy accidents: if a glass of water is spilled, 
or a large spot made upon th ^ table-cloth, she will 
quietly cover the place with a clean napkin; if claret 
is spilled, she will spread salt on the stain before lay- 
ing a fresh napkin over it; if a napkin falls where she 
can reach it she will quickly restore it, but she must 
always have several clean ones in reserve, in case it 
falls under the table, and for covering stains; if a 
knife, fork, or spoon falls, there must be others to 
place, instead of putting the fallen piece upon the 
table. In order to avoid accidents herself, she must 
move quietly, keep her mind steadily fixed on her 
work, carry dishes carefully, and hold them firmly in 
placing them on the table or removing them. She 
must not fill glasses to overflowing. Before holding a 
dish to a guest she must see that there is no chance of 
spilling its contents by tipping. 

After the sou^d and fish have been removed, the entrees 
or side dishes are in place; or the large boiled or baked 
dish of poultry, meat, or large game, with its accom- 
panying vegetables. Sometimes tliis course consists 
of a joint of baked, boiled, or braised meat, or such 



340 PAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

large game as venison; or a Lot pie of game or poul- 
try. This is the time for serving the most substantial 
portion of the dinner. 

The roast proj^er, which is in place with the salad 
before the dessert, should be choice poultry or game 
birds really roasted or broiled; no cooked vegetable is 
used w^ith it, but a green salad of any kind, wdth a 
plain dressing of oil and vinegar, salt and pepper. 
Between the entree or joint and the roast the Roman 
punch is served at formal dinners. Although this is 
usually part of an elaborate dinner, there is no reason 
w^hy it should not be served on any occasion; as a 
matter of enjoyment it is beyond question. While 
there are many expe^ sive sorbets, a 2)lain Avater-ice is 
quite suitable; a teaspoonful of Jamaica rum in each 
glass of w^ater-ice makes a simple Roman punch. The 
Roman punch is brought to the table in large w^ine- 
glasses set upon small plates, wdth a teaspoon laid on 
the plate, after the service of joint or entrees, and be- 
fore the roast. It is most refreshing, especially w^hen 
the preceding course has been heavy, or the w^eather 
is oppressive. Like melon or pineapple after a heavy 
fish course, the sorbet prepares the palate for renewed 
enjoyment of the roast. 

With the salad that accompanies the roast no cheese 
is regularly served, but sometimes a green salad with 
some rich cheese or cheese-straw^s is served as a suc- 
ceeding course; pepper sticks, made of delicate pastry 
very pungently seasoned with cayenne, make a good 
accompaniment for salad. When a combination salad 
is desired at dinner, it should be served as an entree^' 
but these salads are best suited for luncheons, suppers, 
and cold collations. 

After the green salad, the table is cleared for the 



THE SERVICE OP DINNER. 347 

dessert. If there is any large sweet, such as a pud- 
ding or tart, it is served before the ices, creams, can- 
died fruit, or any of the innumerable sweets which 
constitute the dessert proper. The finger-bowls are 
put upon the table when it is prepared for the des- 
sert course; the detail of their use has already been 
given. 

The lr.st service is that of the coffee, which at dinner 
should be strong and hot, in small cups. Loaf-sugar 
is placed upon the table. When at informal dinners 
any one desires to use milk, the coffee is served in a 
large cup. 

To sum up the service in proper order, let the wait- 
ress proceed as follows: 

Fii'st Course. — If raw oysters or clams are served, 
let them be upon the table before the guests come into 
the dining-room. Have on the table either small crisp 
crackers or plates of buttered brown bread. As soon 
as the guests are seated, fill the water-glasses. Next 
bring the soup tureen; the ladle and plates should 
be upon the table before the mistress. As fast as she 
fills the soup plates, take them at her left hand upon a 
small tray and pass them to the left side of the guests. 
As soon as the soup is served bring in the fish, the hot 
fish plates, the fish sauce, and the boiled potatoes, and 
place them before the host. As each guest stops eat- 
ing soup, remove the plate, and replace it with one of 
fish, taking care that it contains a potato and some 
sauce. When all the guests have been served, remove 
the fish and the soup tureen. Make the service of this 
first course without losing a moment, and be sure that 
every one has bread, water, and the relishes within 
reach. Take away the fish plates as soon as the guests 
finish eating. If the first course goes off smoothly and 



348 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

quickly, the guests are prepared to enjoy the rest of 
the dinner. 

Second Course. — Bring in the largest hot dish first, 
and place it before the host, together with the plates 
needed for it, and its appropriate sauce. While this 
dish is being carved, bring the other dishes of the 
course — which will probably be vegetables — and put 
them in their proper places on the table. As the host 
serves each plate, carry it to the guest, taking a vege- 
table Avith it (be sure there is a spoon in the vegetable 
dish), and as soon as all are helped to the principal 
dish, pass the remaining ones of the course as quickly 
as possible. In bringing dishes from the kitchen, take 
care that they are not too full. Xever put much 
sauce on a platter; serve the most of it in a sauce-boat; 
not enough sauce or gravy to spill under a dish that 
is to be carved; every joint in a dish large enough to 
contain it after it is carved. Keep your eyes open, 
and save your steps by removing soiled dishes, filling 
glasses, and passing sauces and vegetables in the inter- 
vals of waiting. 

lloinan Punch. — If this refreshing sorhet, or sherbet, 
is to be served, be making ready for it during the ser- 
vice of the second course by removing every dish the 
moment it has been served, and by taking the plates, 
silver, etc., from before the guests the moment they are 
no longer needed. Remember that the table should 
look fresh and orderly for this service to be enjoyed. 

TJiird Course. — After the roast is placed before the 
host, bring the hot plates, and while it is being carved 
set the salad before the hostess with cold plates. If 
it is not dressed, put the oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper 
w^ithin her reach, so that she may dress it Avhile the 
roast is being passed. Be sure that every one has 



THE SERVICE OF DINNER. 349 

bread and water. When the roast is game, and jelly 
accompanies it, the salad may be served after it, with 
a little rich cheese: see that there is a knife for the 
cheese, and that every one has bread to eat with it. 

Fourth Course. — After the salad, take away all 
the table sauces and all the relishes except the olives 
and salted nuts. As each guest finishes the salad, re- 
move the plate. With a large knife like a pie or fish 
knife scrape the crumbs into a plate or tray — a crumb 
brush scatters them. Make the table ready for the 
dessert; place the largest dessert dish before the host- 
ess, with the proper plates for serving it. Before 
each guest put a dessert plate containing the finger-bowl 
set upon a small napkin or doily, and the dessert silver. 
The guest sets the doily and bowl upon the table, and 
lays the silver ready for use. If coffee is to be served, 
put the sugar on the table, and the cream or milk, if it 
is required. If the dessert includes nuts, see that the 
nut crackers and picks are where all can reach them, 
and put salt upon the table. If there is juicy fruit, 
lay colored fruit napkins; if there are berries or acid 
fruit, put powdered sugar near them. After making 
sure that every one is well served, try to arrange the 
dishes that have been taken from the table in some 
order for washing, but do not move them noisily or 
begin to wash them until the guests have left the 



350 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXX. 

TWO NICE LITTLE DINNERS. 

The prospect of giving a little dinner to a few 
fastidious friends is one that troubles many a modest 
housekeeper needlessly. Certain conditions that should 
not be forgotten, and that insure success if they are 
observed, have already been defined. Do not attempt 
to do anything that is not clearly understood both by 
mistress and servant; and if only one servant is kept 
let as man}^ things as possible be done in advance, and 
give her some intelligent help in the kitchen to make 
sure that nothing is spoiled during her absence in the 
dining-room. 

Take one of the following little feasts for an initial 
dinner; as all the ingredients are available wherever 
canned goods are obtainable, all the dishes can be 
made at any season of the year; two bills of fare are 
given, so that a choice may be had; and the sugges- 
tion is offered that the bulk of such a dinner be hrst 
served to the family before guests are invited. Every- 
thing can be so settled that there need be no trouble 
even at the first service. If any dinner-wine is de- 
sired, a good native sherrj'- or claret will be quite suf- 
ficient; but wine can well be dispensed with and yet 
the dinner be good. The first bill of fare is planned 
without reference to the use of wine; in the second it 
is optional, except that the soup is made with claret, 
but any other soup can be used. , Recipes for many of 



TWO NICE LITTLE DINNERS. 



351 



the dishes have been given, and but few brief explana- 
tions are needed for clear understandinor of both 
menus. In the first, fresh salmon can be replaced 
with the canned fish at any season; any good fish for 
broiling may be used instead of shad, and the salad 
of the season be served for the celery. If oranges 
are out, bananas or fresh or canned pears combine ad- 
mirably with canned apricots. 

Cream of salmon. 

Broiled shad with boiled Bermuda potatoes, and 

Cucumbers or caper butter. 

Salted almonds. Olives. 

Beef a la mode rolls, with green pease. 

Stuffed potatoes. 
Roast chicken with Ducliesse loaves. 

Celery or salad of season. 

Apricots and oranges. Macaroons. 

Cream-cheese. Coffee. 

A cupful of cooked salmon rubbed through a sieve 
with a potato-masher, and heated with two quarts of 
the cream soup described elsew^here, furnishes the 
soup. The broiling of fish has been fully treated; 
the potatoes are to be peeled and boiled ; the cucum- 
bers peeled and sliced, or the caj^er butter made by 
mixing chopped capers with sweet butter, rolling it in 
little pats and cooling it before serving. The salted 
almonds are prepared like salted peanuts, elsewhere 
described. 

The beef rolls are strips of tender round steak with a 
small piece of suet or fat salt pork tied wuthin; they are 
first browned in butter or drippings, then dusted with 
flour, which is allowed to browm, and after that cov- 
ered with boiling water, well seasoned wdth salt and 
pepper, and cooked slowly in the gravy thus made for 



352 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

an hour; the strings are taken off before the rolls are 
served, of course. 

The cooking of green pease has been given, or 
canned pease can be washed in cold water and then 
heated, with salt, pepper, and butter. The recijje for 
stuffed potatoes appears on another page, as does that 
for the roast chicken. Celery needs to be trimmed 
and freshened in cold salted water. Full information 
concerning salads appears in the proper chapter. 

Tlie dish of apricots consists of the fresh or canned 
fruit nicely arranged in a circle about a mound of 
oranges cut in small pieces and freed from seeds ; 
either plenty of powdered sugar is strewn over the 
fruit, or a rich sj^rup is made by boiling sugar with 
the juice of the canned apricots. The use of the 
cream-cheese is described on another page. 

The choice has been made of articles of food pre- 
sumably familiar to our readers, because the success of 
such a menu would naturally seem insured to any one 
accustomed to these methods. In the above bill of 
fare these dishes can be prepared in advance and left 
in a cool place; the cucumbers or caper butter, the 
salted nuts, in a dry place, with the salad and dish of 
fruit; the stuffed potatoes, the DucJiesse loaves, and 
the pease can be made ready to heat, and the souj) and 
beef rolls cooked, and the saucepans containing them 
placed in a large pan of salted boiling water on the 
back of the stove. This plan would leave the cook 
free to prepare and roast the chicken, boil the Ber- 
muda potatoes, and broil the fish, just before dinner- 
time. 

So, likewise, in the second bill of fare, the soup, be- 
ing served cold, could be made at any time, the cu- 
cumbers and salad put into a cold place, the dessert 



TWO NICE LITTLE DINNERS. 353 

frozen and packed in ice, the mushroom sauce finished 
and kept hot like the soup and beef of the first dinner, 
the string-beans and cauliflower made ready for the 
second cooking, the fish prepared to put into the oven, 
leaving the salmi of duck and the hv oiledi Jilet of beef 
as the chief sources of attention. The advantage of 
such an arrangement cannot fail to strike any house- 
keeper who realizes the importance of avoiding un- 
necessary worry when the routine of work is changed 
or increased. The second menu is 

Cold wine soup. 
Baked white-fish, Forest City style. 

Cucumbers. Boiled potatoes. 

Salted peanuts. Various pickles. 

Salmi of duck with olives. 

Baked cauliflower. 

String-beans, sautes. 

Broiled filet of beef with mushroom sauce. 

Lettuce salad. 

Frozen apples with cream. 

Roquefort cheese. Coffee. 

The recipe for soup is on page 382. The fish is to 
be freed from skin and bone, cut in pieces about two 
inches square, laid in a dish suitable for the table, sea- 
soned with salt and white pepper, and moistened with 
white "wine, preferably Sauterne. Upon the upper 
layer a few bits of butter are laid, and over the dish a 
cover or soup plate slightly buttered is turned. A 
half -hour before dinner it is to be put into a moderate 
oven and slowly baked until the flakes begin to sepa- 
rate, but it must not brown. It is to be served in the 
dish in which it is baked, with a dish of plain boiled 
potatoes and another of sliced cucumbers. 

The duck, which may be dressed and cut in small 
joints before cooking, is to be browned in its owm 

9 ft 



354 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

fat, dusted with dry flour, Avliicli is also browned, and 
then covered with boiling water, and slowly stewed 
until tender. A palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, and a cupful of olives are to be added at any time. 
Like the beef rolls of the first bill of fare, the duck can 
be cooked in advance and kept hot in a pan of hot 
water. Just before serving it a glass of sherry or 
Madeira is to be added. 

The cauliflower is first to be washed, then boiled just 
tender in salted boiling water; after it is drained, trans- 
fer it to a baking-dish, pour around it about a pint of 
the white sauce so often described, dust it with fine 
crumbs and a little grated cheese, if this is available, 
dot it with butter, and keep it in a cool place until 
fifteen minutes before dinner-time; then brown it in a 
hot oven. The beans are to be boiled only tender in 
salted boiling water, and laid in cold Avater until near- 
ly dinner-time; then drain them and heat them in a 
frying-pan, with a tablespoonful each of grated onion, 
butter, and chopped jitarsley, and mushrooms. Canned 
beans may be washed in cold water and heated in the 
same way. 

To make the sauce, open a can of mushrooms; put 
into a saucepan a tablespoonful each of flour and but- 
ter, and stir them over the fire until they are light 
brown; then gradually stir in the liquor from the can, 
and enough boiling Avater to make a sauce of the prop- 
er consistency; that is, thick enough to coat the spoon 
used for stirring it; season the sauce with salt and j^ej)- 
per, put in the mushrooms, and keep the sauce hot like 
the salmi. Just before serving it add a glass of wine, 
and send it to the table with the hroiledi Jilet and a dish 
of salad. 

Thafilety or tenderloin, of beef is cut about an inch 



TWO NICE LITTLE DINNERS. 355 

tbick, broiled over a hot fire five minutes on each side, 
seasoned with salt, pepper, and butter, and served on a 
hot platter as soon as it is cooked, with the sauce in a 
bowl, and the salad of lettuce. 

The Hoquefort cheese may come before the frozen 
apples or after, at the will of the diners. It is to be 
served with thin water crackers and sweet butter; the 
unleavened bread or Matzo crackers are excellent for 
this service. 

The frozen apple can be prepared at any time, a 
sweetened apple-sauce being frozen like ice-cream, and 
served in the same way with a dish of whipped cream. 
Canned apples or evajoorated apples stewed are as good 
as freshly stewed apples, and often less expensive. 
Full directions for freezing are giving in the chapter 
on the use of fruit. 

The whipped cream can easily be prepared early in 
the day, and left in a cool place, in the colander set 
upon a dish, until time to send it to the table. Put 
the cream into a large bowl, oversweeten it, and add 
any desired flavoring; beat it with an egg-whip with 
quick strokes for two or three minutes, then leave it 
for a minute; the bubbles will break and the foam 
concentrate so that it can be skimmed off into a colan- 
der set in a deep dish. Repeat the beating and skim- 
ming until the cream is nearly all used; that which 
drains from the colander can be poured back into the 
bowl and whipped again. The cream should be sweet 
and cool, and the motion of whipping brisk; a slow, 
lazy motion would churn the cream, and probably pro- 
duce butter. Keep the whipped cream in a very cold 
place. 

On other pages the laying of the table and its ser- 
vice is fully considered. If the mistress will follow 



350 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the suggestions given to have a careful and dainty ser- 
vice every day, and then will compose her company 
dinners after the method outlined here, she will be 
able to entertain with comfort to herself and her 
household, and with enjoyment to her guests. Un- 
fortunately for mistresses, there are some servants who 
are constitutional grumblers; they Avould demur under 
all circumstances, like Howells' pig, whose principal 
grievance was the fact that he was a pig. There is 
no hope of reformation in them, and no consolation in 
possessing them. They never will be any good until 
they are dead; and so a housekeeper afflicted with one 
of the species had better do away with her at once, 
while yet life offers some inducement to live. But 
with a bright, intelligent girl she can accomplisli all 
the domestic triumphs that are suggested to her in 
this or anv other of the author's works. 



SPRING DINNERS. 357 



CHAPTER XXXI. 

SPRING DINNERS. 

While tlie articles from which this book is com- 
piled were being published in Harper^s Bazar many- 
requests were received for seasonable bills of fare and 
accompanying recipes, and the satisfaction which at- 
tended their issue was great enough to warrant their 
reproduction in this permanent form. Among the first 
appeared the following: 

Consomme a la royale. 

Carrots and turnips glazed. 

Bagout of beef with Lima beans. 

Baked veal-cutlet. 

Corn-salad, Bomaine dressing. 

Salted peanuts. 

Mrs. Locke's white custards. 

Fruit. Coffee. 

The soups which have been given so far have been 
the inexpensive kinds, made without broth or stock. 
While it is a fact that the soup kettle wellmanaged is 
an aid to economy, it is equally true that meat bought 
especially for clear soup, or consomme, or for bouillon, 
costs a considerable sum. The butchers prefer to sell 
the leg or shin for soup, and many cooks have a fixed 
idea that they must have an entire cut for stock at least 
twice a week. The cost of a shin is from thirty to fifty 
cents — as much as we have usually to spare for our 
dish of meat. Such expenditure would be inadmissi- 



358 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

ble in our sclieme of living unless we could show how 
to turn the soup materials into several dishes. The 
soup meat and vegetables required for our current bill 
of fare serve as well for the ragoUt of beef and the 
dish of glazed vegetables. If the soup meat contains 
a section of marrow-bone, the fact must be remembered 
that the substance of the marrow would be practically 
wasted in the soup, while if it is taken from the bone 
before cooking, it may serve as part of some such dish 
as is described in the pages devoted to marrow. If the 
quantity is small it may be finely minced, laid upon 
delicate slices of bread, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
and put into a hot oven just long enough to soften the 
marrow and crisp the bread. This tidbit must be served 
as soon as it is done. 

The royale custard for the soup would be an ex- 
travagance if the whites of the eggs were not utilized. 
If for any reason the white custards — a special dish of 
that admirable economist, Mrs. Clinton Locke — are 
not desired, the whites should be put upon a platter 
and dried by gentle heat until they are perfectly fri- 
able. In this condition they can be powdered and 
kept perfectly free from moisture in a closed glass 
jar. When they are required for use, mix them with 
half their measure of cold water until they are com- 
pletely dissolved; they will be as available as the fresh 
whites, and can even be beaten to a froth. 

The proportion of meat and bone for soup stock is 
a pound of meat and bone to a quart of water. As the 
stock will keep for several days, three or four pounds 
of meat can be used at once. Have the butcher cut 
the meat from the bone in a large i^iece, and crack the 
bone small; if it contains marrow, keep it as unbroken 
as possible. If there is any fat upon the meat, trim it 



SPRING DINNERS. 



359 



off and save it for drippings, but there should not be 
much. Wipe the meat with a wet cloth, but do not 
wash it; put the bone in the bottom of the soup ket- 
tle, lay the meat on it, pour cold water over the meat 
in the proportion of a quart to a pound, and place the 
soup kettle over the fire. As fast as any scum rises, 
remove it with a skimmer; the scum is composed of 
blood and albumen, and is removed only because the 
soup is wanted clear; it is not rejected on the score of 
uncleanness, and may be added to any thick soup or 
brown sauce; a good French cook alwaj^s saves the 
skimmings of the clear soup to use in dishes that lack 
savor and nutriment. AYhile the soup stock is being 
skimmed, peel a small onion without trimming the root 
and top closely enough to separate the layers, and in- 
sert a dozen whole cloves in it. Wash a handful of 
parsley — that is, two or three roots with the stalks and 
leaves attached; lay it on the left hand; in the midst 
of it put a small blade of mace, a sprig of any dried 
herb except sage, a dozen peppercorns or an inch of 
dried red pepper, and a small bay-leaf; wrap the root 
and leaves of the j^arsley about the smaller dried sea- 
sonings so as to enclose them, and tie them in a com- 
pact little bundle with a string; a stalk of celery or a 
few green leaves may be used with the other herbs if 
it is in season ; this makes a bouquet, or fagot, of herbs, 
which gives the soup an indescribably delicious flavor. 
Wash a large turnip and a carrot, and peel them, leav- 
ing them whole. Add all these vegetables to the soup 
after it is clear, with a level tablespoonful of salt; 
cover the kettle, and place it where its contents will 
boil slowly from one side for at least three hours: the 
soup will be better if it boils four or five hours. 

When the vegetables are tender, but not broken, 



300 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

take up the carrot and turnip and cool them. Take 
out the meat when it is tender, but let all the other 
ingredients boil in the soup. When it is done, strain 
it through a clean towel laid double in a colander set 
over an e^arthen bowl, and let it cool; cover it with a 
thin cloth or a sieve, to keej^ out the flies, but not 
with anything which can confine the steam. After 
the soup stock is cold take oSP the fat upon its surface, 
saving it to clarify, according to the directions given 
for drippings. To clarify the soup, mix for each quart 
the white and shell of an egg and a tables^DOonful of 
cold water in a saucepan, pour in the stock, set it over 
the fire, and stir it occasionally to keep the egg loos- 
ened from the saucepan until the stock begins to boil; 
then place the saucej^an at the side of the fire where 
the soup can boil gently until it looks as clear as wine 
under the thick scum of egg upon the surface. It 
will then be ready to strain through a folded towel 
laid in a colander; the soup must be allowed to run 
through without squeezing the towel, for that might 
force through some tiny particles of egg. The soup 
should be perfectly clear and sparkling, about the color 
of sherry; it will then be ready to season, heat, and 
serve. This may seem a rather long and tedious proc- 
ess, but it is the only one that will insure a good, 
clear soup, or coiisortime. Some pieces of royale cus- 
tard heated in clear soup make the soup named on 
our bill of fare. The royale custard is made by mix- 
ing the yolks of two raw eggs with a half -gill of 
clear soup and a grate of nutmeg; beat the custard 
well, pour it into a shallow oiled dish, and set it in a 
pan of hot water, in a moderate oven, to harden; do 
not let it brown, only become firm enough to cut in 
strips; cut the custard in small strips or diamonds. 



SPEING DINNEPwS. 



361 



put it into the hot clear soup, or consomme, and serve 
it. 

The veal -cutlet should be cut about two inches 
thick from a rather small leg, and all the fat should 
be cooked with it. After wiping it with a wet cloth 
to remove the bone dust, lay it in a pan just large 
enough to hold it, and bake it for about an hour, or 
until the flesh is quite w^hite; during baking season it 
with salt and white pepper, and, if the fat is deficient, 
baste it with a tablespoonful of butter. When the 
veal is done, transfer it to a hot, deep platter, and 
keep it hot; set the dripping-pan on the stove, stir in 
a tablespoonful of flour, and brown it, and then a pint 
of boiling water, and a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper; as soon as the gravy boils it will be ready to 
serve, some around the veal and the rest in a bowl. 

The ragoilt is made from the soup meat cut in inch 
squares, rolled in flour, seasoned with salt and pepper, 
and browned in two tablespoonfuls of hot drippings 
or butter; when the beef is brown, cover it with boil- 
ing water, and season it palatably. Open a can of 
Lima beans, drain them, wash them v\'ith cold water, 
and again drain them, and then heat them with the 
beef, and serve them with it. Or a cupful of dried 
Lima beans may be soaked overnight in cold water, 
simmered until tender the next day in boiling watei", 
and then added to the beef and gravy. 

The glazed vegetables are prepared by cutting the 
carrot and turnip which were cooked in the soup in 
small dice; just before dinner-time put a frying-pan 
over the fire containing a tablespoonful each of butter 
and sugar, and stir them until they begin to brown; 
then put in the vegetables, shake them about in the 
pan to coat them with the butter and sugar, and then 



302 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

serve them hot; be careful not to break them in glaz- 
ing them. 

The custards are made by heating a pint and a half 
of cream or milk; stir the four whites of egg until 
liquid, and then stir the hot cream into them ; sweeten 
and flavor the custard, put it into cups set in a pan of 
water, cover the cups Avith thick brown paper to pre- 
vent the coloring of the custards, and bake them in a 
moderate oven only until they are firm. Use the cus- 
tards hot or cold. If the whites are beaten before the 
cream is added to them, they may rise to the surface 
of the custards in baking, leaving the lower portion 
liquid, like whey in a custard. If after the whites of 
eofs:, suGfar, and hot cream are mixed tosfether thev do 
not seem perfectly smooth, the custard may be strained 
before it is put into cups. In making these custards 
in cooking-lessons very fine powdered sugar is used, 
because it dissolves quickly; the sugar and whites are 
stirred together for a moment, and the hot cream is 
then mixed with them until the sugar is entirely dis- 
solved. 

The salad is to be carefully washed in cold water, 
shaken dry in a towel, and dressed with a Momaine 
sauce. Make the sauce by mixing together a tea- 
spoonful each of grated onion and lemon juice, a salt- 
spoonful each of salt, dry mustard, powdered sugar, 
and white pepper, one tablespoonful of vinegar, and 
three of oil. The corn-salad is a small, tender leaf 
about the size of cultivated sorrel. Any green salad 
can be dressed in this way. 

The salted peanuts make a good relish. Shell them, 
remove the skins, put them into a dripping-pan with 
just enough butter to make them glossy, and then 
brown them in a hot oven, shaking the pan frequently 



SPRING DINNERS. 3g3 

to make them brown evenly. When the nuts are 
brown, sprinkle them with salt. Salted almonds are 
prepared in the same way. 

Another good spring bill of fare is 

O^'ster cream soup. 

Philadelphia fried oysters, with brown gravy, in 

Mashed potato border, 

New beets fried. 

Ragout of small birds. 

Breast of lamb with tomatoes. 

Cream-cheese salad. 

Swiss pudding with lemon sauce. 

Nuts, cheese, and coffee. 

The dish of lamb and the pudding require the long- 
est time for cooking of any of the dishes on the bill of 
fare. The lamb is to be wiped with a wet cloth, the 
bones cut out and placed in a saucepan, the lamb sea- 
soned with salt and pepper; if it is desirable to in- 
crease the size of the dish, put on the inside of the 
lamb a layer of bread-crumbs mixed with one Qgg, a 
tablespoonful of butter, an even teaspoonful of salt, 
and a quarter of a saltspoonful of pepper ; roll the 
lamb and tie it in a compact roll, put it into the sauce- 
pan with the bones, and brown them over a hot fire; 
dredge a tablesj^oonful of dry flour over them, and 
brown that; put with the lamb a quart of fresh or 
canned tomatoes, peeled and sliced; season the to- 
matoes highly with salt and pepper; if the sauce they 
make is thicker than a good gravy, add enough boil- 
ing water to make it of the proper consistency, and 
cook the lamb slowly for an hour, or until it is tender; 
then remove the string, and serve the lamb with the 
tomato sauce. 

After the lamb is placed over the fire, put there also 



304 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

a largo saucepan partly filled with water to heat, and 
make the pudding. Butter a tin pudding mould and 
dust it with flour; sift together half a pound or a 
scant pint of flour, a heaping teaspoonful of baking 
powder, and an even one of salt; rub four ounces of 
granulated sugar with two ounces of butter until they 
are mixed to a granular condition, but not at all 
creamy; stir tlie flour with the sugar and butter, then 
quickly mix with them one Qgg, half a pint of milk, 
and half a teaspoonful of lemon extract; Avork quick- 
ly; as soon as the pudding is mixed put it into the 
buttered and floured mould, cover the mould to ex- 
clude the water, if the pudding does not fill it more 
than half, buttering the inside of the cover; otherwise 
leave off the cover of the mould, but take care that no 
water boils into the pudding; the water in the sauce- 
pan should reach about two thirds up the side of the 
mould, and should boil steadily for three quarters of 
an hour, the saucepan being covered to prevent the 
escape of steam. Test the pudding with a broom 
straw or a small knife-blade to make sure that it is 
done. If the pudding is done before it is time to 
serve it, let it remain in the mould, standing in the 
hot water, but not boiling. The pudding is to be 
turned from the mould and served with a lemon sauce 
made thus: grate the yellow rind of a lemon; squeeze 
and strain the juice; put over the fire a tablespoonful 
each of butter and flour, and stir them smooth; then 
gradually stir in a pint of boiling water, four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, and the lemon rind, and let the 
sauce boil once; just before serving it add the lemon 
juice. A heaping tablespoonful of sugar and a scant 
one of butter arc equal to about an ounce of cither 
substance. 



SPRING DINNERS. 355 

The beets are to be washed without breaking the 
skins, boiled tender — about half an hour if they are 
young — and then sliced, and fried with salt, pepper, 
and butter. The potatoes are to be peeled, sliced, 
boiled tender in salted boiling water, then drained 
and mashed through a colander held above a platter; 
after the potatoes are mashed, shape them around the 
inside of the rim of the platter like a little wall, using 
two forks to press them lightly into shape; set the 
platter in the oven to keep the potatoes warm. 

After putting the beets and potatoes to boil, wash 
a head of lettuce, dry it carefully on a clean towel, 
arrange it in a salad bowl with a small cream-curd 
cheese, or a roll of fresh Jersey Neufchdtel cheese; 
pour over the salad six tablespoonfuls of oil, two of 
vinegar, add a saltspoonful of salt and a quarter of a 
saltspoonf al of pepper, and keep it in a cold place un- 
til the time for serving it. This is a delicious break- 
fast salad for a warm morning; served with good cof- 
fee and fresh rolls, it makes a refreshing and whole- 
some breakfast. 

After preparing the vegetables and salad, make the 
soup and fry the oysters, using a quart of good ones 
for both dishes; strain the oyster broth, and add to it 
enough water to make a quart, and a quart of milk, 
and put them over the fire to heat slowly; then care- 
fully remove all bits of shell from the oysters, and lay 
them on a clean towel; when all are ready, roll them 
in flour seasoned with salt and pepper. About ten 
minutes before the oysters are Avanted for the table, 
put a frying-pan over the fire with enough butter and 
lard or good salad-oil mixed equally to cover the bot- 
tom of the pan half an inch deep; let the fat get hot, 
put in the oysters, and fry them light brown; then 



QQQ FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

take them up one by one to allow the fat to drain off, 
and lay them inside the border of mashed potatoes; 
stir a heaping teaspoonf ul of dry flour into the frying- 
pan, gradually mix in enough boiling water to make a 
good gravy, let it boil, season it with salt and pepper, 
and serve it with the fried oysters and mashed potatoes. 
The soup may be hastily made after the oysters are 
laid ui)on the towel to dry. Put two tablespoonfuls 
each of butter and flour over the fire, and stir them 
until they are smoothly blended; then gradually stir 
in the hot milk and oyster liquor. When all has been 
used, season the soup palatably with salt, white pep- 
per, and a very little nutmeg. Let the soup boil once, 
and then serve it. This soup should be made in a 
thick saucepan to prevent burning; if a double kettle 
is used, longer time should be allowed for making it. 
A few oysters may be added to it if they are desired, 
but it is very delicate without them. If it is allowed 
to stand any length of time after it is made it may 
become too thick; in that case add suflicient hot milk 
to produce the desired consistency. If the soup is 
carefully made it will be free from lumps, and there 
will be no necessity for straining it. Like all cream 
soups, it will need to be kept hot by placing the sauce- 
pan in a pan of hot water, unless it is to be used as 
soon as it is made. 

Cream of carrots. 

Potatoes baked in cream sauce. 

Chicken pie. 

Stewed new cabbage. 

Drumsticks and pinions, with orange salad. 

French candies. 

Coffee. 

The first glance at this bill of fare shows a blend- 



SPRING DINNEKS. 36^ 

ing of the fine with tlie commonplace, and a sugges- 
tion of possible extravagance in cream. But the house- 
keeping expert will not take alarm, knowing that in 
good cookery the nature of things is interchangeable, 
and that milk is the basis of many " cream " dishes. 
The soup is a representative one, such as can be made 
from any seasonable vegetable which possesses dis- 
tinctive flavor or color, either one being sufficient to 
give character to a cream soup. 

To begin the preparations for dinner, peel and slice 
enough bright orange-colored carrot to nearly fill a pint 
bowl, and put it over the fire to boil in a quart of boil- 
ing water slightly salted; while the rest of the dinner 
is being cooked, let the carrot boil until it is soft enough 
to rub through a sieve or fine colander, with a potato- 
masher or a wooden spoon, in the form of a pulp or 
puree. Fifteen minutes before dinner heat a quart of 
milk; mix together over the fire in a thick saucepan 
two tablespoonfuls each of flour and butter, stirring 
them with a small wooden pudding-stick until they are 
smoothly blended and begin to bubble together; then 
gradually stir with them heated milk, the carrot pulp, 
and enough hot water to make about two quarts of 
soup as thick as good cream; season the soup palata- 
bly with salt and pepper, let it boil, and then serve it. 
Like other soups made with butter and flour, it -will 
thicken by standing; should it become too thick, mix 
in a little hot milk. When green pease, string-beans, 
asparagus tops, or lettuce are in season, the appearance 
of the soup is much improved by the addition of about 
half a cupful of either, boiled tender in salted boiling 
water, drained, thrown for a moment into cold water 
to set the color, and then again drained and put into 
the soup. Care should be taken to boil the green vege- 



368 FAMILY LIVING ON 1500 A YEAR. 

tables in actually boiling salted water, and only until 
they are tender, but not at all broken. The pease 
should have the pods washed before they are shelled 
and boiled; the beans should be cut in long diagonal 
strips and boiled; the lettuce in narrow strips, about 
two inches long, boiled for a minute in salted boiling 
water, and then thrown into cold w^ater before being 
put into the soup. The contrast of color is exceeding- 
ly pretty, and the effect good. 

Either one large or two small chickens will answer 
for both of the dishes mentioned on the bill of fare; 
those poor skeletons are not meant whose purplish 
flesh, showing under the skin of the back and legs, 
suggests their having been too often left out overnight 
in the cold, but plump, comfortable-looking birds that 
have been able to accumulate a layer of fat between 
the flesh and skin. One j^oung fowl weighing about 
four pounds w^ill serve, if the bones are small and well 
covered with tender flesh, or two smaller ones. Poul- 
try with disproportionately large bones is apt to have 
coarse, stringy flesh, unless it is carefully fed. The 
age of poultry can easily be decided by examining the 
lower end of the breastbone; if it is soft and pliable — 
in other w^ords, if the cartilage has not yet hardened 
into bone — the bird is still young, and may reasonably 
be thought tender; there should be some appearance 
of fat under the skin, and the bones should be well 
covered with flesh. Care should be taken to select 
clean-looking poultry, perfectly sweet in odor, and with 
unbroken skin. 

After the feathers and pinfeathers are removed the 
bird should be singed, carefully wiped with a wet 
towel, and drawn without breaking the intestines. 
The tips of the wings should be cut off, and the legs 



SPRING DINNERS. 



369 



just below the knee-joint. The head, neck, and crop 
are also to be removed, the neck being cut in pieces. 
The v/ings should be cut off with a piece of the breast 
attached to each; the drumsticks and second joints are 
to be cut off together, and part of the bone taken out 
through a clean cut from the inside. Lay the legs 
and wings aside, and use the body of the bird as fol- 
lows: To make a chicken pie, cut the chicken in pieces 
about two inches square, taking out some'of the most 
unmanageable bones ; put the chicken over the fire 
with enough butter to prevent burning, and brown it 
quickly, dust the browned chicken with Hour, and move 
it about in the pan until the flour is brown; then cover 
it with boiling water, season it palatably with salt and 
pepper, and let it stew very slowly while the crust is 
being made. 

To make good plain flaky pastry, use either the best 
lard, white and firm, or the best butter. It is not 
reasonable to hope to make good pastry or cake un- 
less prime materials are used. Allow half as much 
shortening as flour, by weight ; that is, half a pound 
of flour and a quarter of a pound of butter will cover 
a chicken pie in a baking-dish, or make two fruit pies 
of ordinary size. Avoid melting the shortening, and 
thus heating the pastry, by handling it. Sift the flour, 
mix it with just enough cold v/ater to make a dough 
which can be rolled out without sticking to the hands 
or the pastry board; use a little extra flour in rolling 
out the pastry; roll it out about square, and half an 
inch thick; lay the shortening on it in rather large 
slices, leaving a clear margin around the outer edge of 
about an inch; fold this in towards the centre, and 
then double the pastry together so as to enclose the 
shortening; roll and fold the pastry quickly several 
24 



370 FAMILY LIVING ON foOO A YEAR. 

times ; each fold makes a fresh layer in the pastry; 
work rapidly ; do not melt the shortening ; bake the 
pastry in a rather quick oven, and it will be light and 
tender. 

Either line an earthen dish entirely or only half- 
way down the sides with the pastry; put in the stewed 
chicken and gravy, cover the pie with a top crust, wet- 
ting the under crust to make the two adhere. Do not 
pinch or press the outer edges of the crust, because 
that will destroy the layers, but cut them sharply off 
with a keen-bladed knife. Cut several apertures in 
the top crust to permit the escape of steam while the 
pie is being baked. If the top crust is prettily cut or 
ornamented with figures of flowers and leaves made 
from the pastry, and then brushed with beaten egg 
before it is baked, the pie will be very inviting in ap- 
pearance. It should be baked in a moderate oven un- 
til the crust is done. If there is any sign of burning, 
a large sheet of thick paper should be rubbed with but- 
ter or lard and laid double over the pie to protect it 
from the intense heat. The pie should bake in less 
than an hour, and be served hot in the baking-dish; as 
the chicken is already cooked, only the crust has to be 
baked, and the more quickly that is done, the more 
palatable will be the pie. The excellence of all pastry 
depends upon the quick, light touch of the baker. 
After putting the pie in the oven, lay the wings and 
legs of the chicken between the bars of a double wire 
gridiron, well buttered, and have them ready to broil 
about the time of finishing the soup, so that they will 
be hot and brown when dinner is ready. Broil them 
quickly, so as to preserve their juice; season them with 
salt, pepper, and butter, and serve them with an orange 
salad, or garnish them with tart oranges sliced. 



SPRING DINNERS. 



371 



An orange salad is made by slicing tart, juicy- 
oranges, removing the seeds, arranging tliem on a 
salad dish, and dressing them with salad-oil, salt, a 
squeeze of lemon juice, and a dust of cayenne. There 
is no more delicious accompaniment for broiled or 
roasted poultry or game. 

After the pie is in the oven, peel half a dozen sound 
white potatoes, cut them in slices about a quarter of 
an inch thick, letting them fall into cold water as they 
are sliced. When all are done, put them into an earth- 
en dish suitable to send to table, season them rather 
highly with pepper, salt, and butter, pour over them 
sufficient milk to entirely cover them, and bake them 
for about half an hour, or until they are tender. Serve 
them hot in the baking-dish. 

Full directions for boiling cabbage and making 
cream sauce have been given. 

French candies are made by two methods, the sim- 
plest of which is given here; the more elaborate for- 
mula will be the subject of subsequent observations. 
One ingredient is sometimes difficult to obtain — the 
finely powdered sugar called XXX, or confectioner's 
sugar; it is as fine and smooth as flour. Any good 
grocers' jobber will supply it; the candy cannot be 
m^ade successfully vvithout it. Sift the XXX sugar 
to insure perfect smoothness; separate the white and 
yolk of a fresh egg, and measure the white; add to 
the white an equal measure of cold water; then grad- 
ually work in the sugar until as much has been used 
as is necessary to form a thick creamy paste which can 
be rolled in the hands without stickino^ to them. This 
cream is the basis of cream walnuts and other cream 
nut and fruit candies. 

To make cream walnuts, remove the nuts from the 



372 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

sliells, keeping the kernels intact; roll a little ball of 
the cream candy, put two nuts on opposite sides of the 
ball, flatten it between them, and the confection is 
made. The candies may be used as soon as they are 
made; they will keep good for several days. Other 
forms of using this cream will be given later. 



SUMMER DINNERS. 3*73 



CHAPTER XXXII. 

SUMMER DINNERS. 

A TYPICAL summer dinner is based upon fish, the 
only meat nsed being a little already cooked, for stuff- 
ing the baked peppers. The repast will probably be 
found hearty enough for the season. The bill of 

fare is: 

Shad roes with potatoes. 

New cabbage stewed in milk. 

Baked peppers with gravy. 

Planked shad. 

Barrow tomato salad. 

Strawberry short-cake. 

Coffee. 

The entire dinner can be prepared in about two hours. 
The objection is sometimes made that on busy house- 
hold days a great deal of time must be given to the 
making of many of the dishes included in our list. 
Much time is demanded; but w^hen the truth is realized 
that no other household department is more important 
than the table, and that the excellence of the dishes 
largely dej^ends upon the time given to their prepara- 
tion, the objection cannot be sustained. 

The straw^berry short-cake is' the old ideal dainty, 
seldom seen in these days, when a few sour berries are 
hidden in layers of dry cake, to the utter confusion of 
the anticipations aroused by the name. As it is eaten 
cold, it may be made at any time in advance of dinner. 
For two medium-size cakes use a pound of flour, half 



374 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

a pound of good butter, about a pint of milk,-and ei- 
ther baking j^owder or cream-tartar and soda; if the 
last-named ingredients are used, be sure that they are 
fresh and of good strength, and reduce them to a pow- 
der, allowing a teaspoonful of cream of tartar to half 
that quantity of soda. Sift together the flour, an even 
teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonf uls of baking powder, 
or the above-named quantity of cream of tartar and 
soda; add a quarter of a pound of batter, chopping it 
into the flour with a knife; butter or flour two tin pie 
plates, and see that the oven is hot; quickly stir with the 
flour enougli milk to make a dough whicli can be di- 
vided in two cakes and flattened on the pie plates; put 
them into a hot oven, and bake them about twenty 
minutes, or until a straw run into them can be with- 
drawn clean. If in about five minutes the cakes begin 
to burn, cover them with buttered paper until they 
are nearly done, and then remove it to allow them to 
brown. Partly cool the short-cakes after they are 
done, tear them apart with a fork, and spread the sec- 
ond quarter of a pound of butter on them while they 
are still warm enough to melt it, applying it so lightly 
that the short-cake is not made heavy. While the 
cakes are being baked, hull three pints of ripe straw- 
berries, or more if they are not too expensive. In 
city markets in June the berries average in cost about 
fifteen cents a quart. Do not wash the berries unless 
they are very sandy; then do it as fast as possible, and 
lay them on a clean towel to dry. After the short- 
cakes are buttered, distribute the berries over them, 
placing the finest upon the slices designed for the top; 
dust them plentifully with finely powdered sugar, free 
from lumps, and lay the slices one above the other. 
Keep the short-cakes in a cool place; if cream is to be 



SUMMER DINNERS. 



375 



served with them, have it very cold, and do not pour it 
over the cakes until they are cut. Just before serving, 
dust them again with powdered sugar, and send more 
to the table with them, and a pitcher of cream if the 
indulgence can be permitted. In cities cream costs 
from thirty to fifty cents a quart, and less in the coun- 
try if there is no local creamery to monopolize it; the 
most economical way to use cream with fruit or short- 
cakes is to sweeten it and then whip it ; keep it very 
cold until it is served. 

The peppers may be prepared for baking in advance. 
Either wash and wipe them, or blister them before the 
fire or in a very hot oven, and rub off the outer skin, 
being careful not to break them (this operation is rath- 
er diflicult, and not absolutely necessary) ; cut out the 
stem end in a circular piece (which serves to close the 
l^eppers again after they are stuffed), making an aper- 
ture large enough to admit of removing the seeds with 
a teaspoon; the seeds are very pungent and indigesti- 
ble, but they may be dried for seasoning catsups; mix 
in equal quantities enough cold meat finely chopped 
and soft bread crumbs to fill the peppers, seasoning 
them with salt and butter or gravy; stuff the peppers, 
and put in the stem end; set them in an earthen dish, 
pour cold gravy around them, and before dinner-time 
bake them half an hour in a moderate oven. The 
chopped meat may be replaced by sausage-meat fried 
wdth a little finely minced onion; and if no gravy is at 
hand, some may be quickly made by browning to- 
gether over a hot fire a heaping tablespoonful each of 
flour and butter or drippings, and then gradually stir- 
ring with them a pint of boiling water, and salt and 
pepper in a palatable quantity. 

After the peppers are put to bake, half a dozen large 



3Y6 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR 

potatoes may be peeled, sliced, and boiled, and the cab- 
bage carefully washed, the tough stalk being cut away, 
and the rest put into a large pot half full of actually 
hoiling salted water; let the cabbage boil fast until 
the thickest part is just tender, hut not at aU watery, 
and then drain it, cover it with hot milk, and season it 
palatably with salt, pepper, and butter. 

Have a shad split down the back, and the backbone 
cut out; if the fish is large, half will be sufficient for 
one meal; the second portion can be salted, peppered, 
and kept in a cool place to cook for the next morn- 
ing's breakfast. Carefully wash the roes, dry them on 
a clean towel, and put them into a covered frying-pan 
with enough drippings to prevent burning, and fry 
them brown. To plank the shad, put a two-inch hard- 
wood board before the fire to get very hot; fasten the 
shad on it skin down, either with the regular shad- 
plank wires or with several large sharp-pointed nails 
— five w^as Uncle Sammy Shipman's magic number — 
and broil it in front of a hot fire, turning the board as 
often as the juice of the fish runs from it; the plank 
may be proj^ped up in a dripping-pan, and the shad 
basted with salt, pepper, butter, and its own drippings; 
when the fish is brown the board is to be laid on a 
large platter or tray, with folded napkins to coy^er the 
edges of the plank, and so sent to the table. The 
drippings in the pan and a cut lemon are served with 
planked shad. 

The boiled potatoes are to be drained in a colander, 
and then mashed through it upon a platter, and lightly 
formed into a border with two forks; the fried shad 
roes are to be laid wnthin the border; gravy may be 
made, if desired, by pouring nearly all the fat out 
of the frying-pan, stirring in first a tablespoonful of 



SUMMER DINNERS. 3^7 

flour, and then <i pint of boiling water, and some salt 
and pepper. When the shad is a buck, the roes of 
haddock or any other large fish may be used. 

For the Barrow tomato salad we are indebted to an 
enthusiastic reader of Harper's Bazar. It is made of 
ripe tomatoes, peeled, cut in thick slices, each slice be- 
ing well seasoned with salt and pepper, and all laid in 
piles in the salad bowl. Just before serving, a glass 
of sherry is poured over the tomatoes. Mrs. Barrow 
says that " each slice of tomato must be white with 
salt and black Avith pepper." The salad is delicious, 
and entirely novel. 

An acceptable July dinner would be: 

Okra soup with crabs. 

Broiled fluke with pickle butter. 

New potatoes fried. 

Green corn, Southern stjie. 

Maryland fried chiclven, witli Mandrang sauce. 

Iced pineapple. 

The soup is the dish for which the most time is re- 
quired, nearly five hours, during which it should be 
kept covered closely to prevent evaporation. For 
two quarts of soup peel and slice an onion, fry it 
brown withatablespoonful of drippings, a small slice of 
fat ham, and the bones from a knuckle of veal; wash a 
dozen large pods of fresh okra and a green pepper, and 
slice them, rejecting the okra stems and the seeds of 
the pepper; when the onion is brown, add the okra 
and pepper, two quarts of boiling water, and a palata- 
ble seasoning of salt and pepper, and slowly boil the 
soup for two hours. Meantime peel and slice six 
large tomatoes, and boil and take the meat from three 
hard-shell crabs, or cut up two soft-shell crabs, and 
fry the crab meat with a small onion, chopped, and 



378 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

enough butter or drippings to prevent burning. At 
the end of two hours add the tomatoes and crab meat 
to the okra and other ingredients, and continue the 
boiling of the soup for two hours longer. Then re- 
move the bones, add enough boiling water to increase 
the quantity of the soup to two quarts, see that it is 
palatably seasoned, and serve it hot. After putting on 
the soup, cook the hominy as directed in the recipe for 
Maryland fried chicken. 

The iced pineapple may be prepared at any time 
and kept in a cold place; peel it, hold it by the crown, 
and grate it, using a grater with unbroken surface and 
a dish large enough to receive all the juice; put the 
grated pineapple into a glass dish, dust it with pow- 
dered sugar, pour a glass of sherry over it, and put it 
near the ice for at least an hour; before serving it, 
dust it again v/ith powdered sugar. 

The potatoes may be scraped and boiled just tender, 
at any time, and then rolled in a towel to dry them, be- 
fore frying them with the chicken. The pickle but- 
ter may be made by chopping a small pickle very 
fine and mixing it with an equal quantity of cold but- 
ter; keep it cold until the fish is cooked. The Man- 
drang sauce may also be prepared and put in a cold 
place before the chicken is cooked. Peel one large or 
several small cucumbers, cut them in half-inch strips 
and then in dice; cut an equal measure of young green 
onions in dice, and squeeze the juice of a lemon; mix 
these ingredients with a glass of Madeira and a high 
seasoning of salt, pej^per, and cayenne, and serve as a 
salad with fried or roast poultry or fish. 

In the South little cakes of fried mush or hominy 
are always served with chicken; as it fries best when 
cold, it may be made in advance of the time for cook- 



SUMMER DINNERS. 3/^9 

ing the chicken. Pick over a pint of fine white hom- 
iny, Avash it in three waters, put it over the fire in a 
thick saucepan, or farina-boiler, with a \mit and a half 
of cold water, and let it heat slowly and boil steadily 
for half an hour; if the hominy is coarse, it may re- 
quire longer boiling; if when it is done it is not thick 
enough to hold the spoon upright, it must be boiled a 
little longer, uncovered, to evaporate the superfluous 
water. While the hominy is being boiled it must be 
stirred often enough to prevent burning. If a double 
kettle is used, it will take longer than half an hour 
to cook it. When the hominy is done, mix with it a 
tablespoonful each of butter and flour rubbed togeth- 
er to a smooth paste, and a palatable seasoning of salt; 
let it boil once more, and then pour it into a dish wet 
with cold water, and let it cool before cutting it to 
fry; cut it in little cakes, and roll them in flour to fry, 
for garnishing the chicken. 

To prepare the chicken, remove the feathers ; singe 
it ; wipe it with a wet towel ; draw it without break- 
ing the intestines, and then there will not be any need 
of washing it; cut it in joints as for fricassee; dip 
each joint quickly in cold water, and then at once roll 
it in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, covering it 
thoroughly. Melt lard in a large shallow frying-pan, 
covering the bottom a quarter of an inch deep, and 
when the fat begins to smoke put in the chicken, leav- 
ing a space between the pieces, and slowly fry it until 
it is light brown and tender. Allow three quarters of 
an hour for preparing the entire dish. When all the 
chicken is fried, keep it hot while the hominy is fried; 
this is first cut in half -inch slices, and then in pieces 
two inches square, and rolled in flour before it is 
browned in the pan where the chicken was fried. Tlie 



380 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAK. 

potatoes can also be browned in the same pan; tliey 
are not a part of the regulation clisli of fried chicken, 
but are used here to increase the size of the dish, and 
served on a separate platter or in a vegetable dish. 
The hominy is laid around the fried chicken. If 
necessary, use extra lard for frying the hominy, but 
not enough to make an excess in the pan after the 
hominy is cooked — there should be about a table- 
spoonful. After the hominy is fried, keep it hot with 
the chicken, and make the gravy by stirring into the 
frying-pan a heaping teaspoonful of flour, half a pint 
of cream or rich milk, and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper; let the gravy boil for a moment, stir- 
ring it to insure smoothness, and then serve it with 
the fried chicken and hominy. If milk is used instead 
of cream, just before pouring the gravy from the fry- 
ing-pan mix the yolk of a raw egg with two or three 
spoonfuls of cold milk, and stir it into the grav}'', but 
do not allow it to boil, or the egg may cause the gravy 
to be lumpy. Nearly every good old Southern cook 
had some special way of frying chicken; sometimes 
half lard and half butter Avere used, sometimes oil and 
lard, or a little bacon fat. The chickens were some- 
times killed just before they were cooked; other 
dusky authorities thought they should be put in a 
cold cellar or in the well for a day after they were 
killed. But no matter by what method prepared, 
Southern fried chicken was always delicious, like 
Southern green corn. 

One reason for the excellence of the latter was the 
fact that it was generally freshly plucked just before 
it was boiled; after green corn has been cut for even 
a single hour it begins to deteriorate, losing its sweet 
flavor and milky juice. To prepare corn for boiling, 



SUMMER DINNERS. 381 

strip off the outer husks, turn the inner ones away 
from the cob to permit the removal of all the silk, and 
then replace them and secure them at the end with 
a bit of white cord; put the corn into salted actually 
boiling water, and boil it for fifteen or twenty min- 
utes, according to the size of the kernels, and then re- 
move the strings, and send the hot corn to the table. 
If the husks are taken off before the corn is served, it 
must be done very quickly, and the corn at once rolled 
in a hot, dry naj^kin. Serve with it plenty of sw^eet 
butter and salt and pepper; sometimes the butter is 
melted and seasoned and sent hot to the table with the 
corn. Boiled corn can be kept hot in the husks for 
some hours if there is moist heat or steam surround- 
ing it. 

The fluke is to be put into a very hot oven about 
twenty minutes before dinner-time, and seasoned with 
salt, pepper, and butter; if care is taken that it does 
not burn, it will not need any water in the pan. The 
pickle butter is to be spread upon it after it is trans- 
ferred to a hot dish to send to the table. 

A light and palatable midsummer dinner may be 
arranged as follows, despite the fears of one of our 
California friends, that we might never have claret on 
the table : 

Cold wine soup. 

Fried eels, with brown gravy. 

LoDg Island new potatoes. 

Egg-plant fritters, sugar pease, Evergreen corn, 

Muskmelon salad. 

Bartlett pears iced. 

None of these dishes require long cooking, but the 
pears and melon will be better for being prepared 
early in the day and placed in the ice-box until they 



382 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

are needed. Peel the pears thinly and smoothly with 
a silver knife, quarter them evenly and remove the 
cores, lay them in a glass or china dish, squeeze over 
them the juice of one orange, and dust them with fine 
sugar. The melon should be washed with a brush, 
put on ice, and just before serving cut in squares with 
a very sharp knife after the seeds are removed, and 
dressed with two tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or 
vinegar, six of oil, and a palatable seasoning of salt, 
pepper, and cayenne; this, of course, is for service 
with the bulk of the dinner; if it is to be used instead 
of the pears for dessert, ice it and serve it with lemon 
juice and powdered sugar. 

The fish, jDotatoes, and pease may be laid in separate 
vessels in cold water for some hours before cooking 
them. As the soup is served cold, it may be made at 
any time during the morning ; two ounces of fine 
tapioca or sago are to be i)icked over and washed in 
cold water; put the sago over the fire in a quart of 
cold water and boil it gently until all the grains are 
transparent; add more water if the sago absorbs the 
quart; when the sago is transparent there should be 
nearly a quart of soup; then add a quarter of a pound 
of sugar and a j^int of any kind of fair claret, and cool 
the soup; when quite cold it should be about the con- 
sistency of cream; if it is thicker, thin it with either 
claret or cold water, sweeten it palatably, grate a very 
little nutmeg into it, and serve it cold. 

The fritters can be made from cold cooked egg- 
plant; chop it fine, mix a cupful with the yolk of a 
raw Gggy a cupful of flour, a tablespoonful of salad- 
oil, a rather high seasoning of salt and pepper, and 
enough cold water to make a smooth batter thick 
enough to hold on its surface a drop let fall from the 



SUMMER DINNERS. 



383 



mixing-spoon ; just before dinner-time have ready a 
deep kettle of fat on the fire, and when it is hot beat 
the white of an egg stiff, stir it into the batter, drop it 
by the tablespoonfiil into the smoking hot fat, and fry 
the fritters light brown; take them up with a skim- 
mer, free them from fat by laying them for a moment 
on brown paper, and then sprinkle them w4th salt and 
serve them. 

The corn is to be husked, freed from silk, put into a 
baking-pan with salt, pepper, and butter enough to 
just moisten it, and baked in a hot oven for about 
twenty minutes, or until it begins to brown, turning 
it occasionally in the pan. The sugar pease, which 
are rather broad and flat in the pod, are to be washed, 
the stems and strings removed as from string-beans, 
and the pods cut in equal lengths; twenty minutes be- 
fore dinner-time put them over the fire in plenty of 
salted boiling water, and boil them fast until they are 
just tender; then drain them, dress them with salt, 
pepper, and butter, and serve them hot. The pota- 
toes are to be scraped, or rubbed clean with a cloth, 
in plenty of clean, cold water, then boiled just tender 
in salted boiling water, drained, and heated whole 
with salt, pepper, and butter, and served with the fried 
eels. 

The eels are to be thoroughly washed, and then put 
over the fire in cold water and quickly heated; after 
that drain them, roll them in flour highly seasoned 
with salt and pepper, and fry them in just enough hot 
drippings to prevent burning; after the eels are fried, 
pour nearly all the fat out of the frying-pan, stir in a 
tablespoonful of dry flour and brow^n it, and then stir 
in a pint of boiling water and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper, and let the gravy boil two or three 



384 FAMILY LIVING ON f500 A YEAR. 

minutes ; meantime make enough toast to cover the 
bottom of a platter, pour the gravy over it, and serve 
the eels on it. 

Some recipes may "be accej^table for warming sum- 
mer vegetables, the new potatoes, for instance. When 
cold they can be S2:»lit in two pieces, dipped in butter 
seasoned with salt and pepper, and then broiled in a 
double wire gridiron, and served hot; or they may be 
chopped, and fried with butter, salt, and pepper, or 
with a little cream when it is available. IsTew pota- 
toes, chopped and fried with cold corn which has been 
cut from the ear, or with cold butter or Lima beans, 
make a good breakfast or luncheon dish. Cold corn 
and beans may be fried together, or heated in white 
sauce, or Avith a little cream, as succotash. Succotash 
proper is green corn cut from the ear and stewed with 
beans, salt, pepper, and butter; some cooks add a little 
milk to it; a small piece of salt pork boiled with suc- 
cotash is often served in the country for dinner. Green 
corn baked in the pan with meat is good ; the South- 
ern style of boiling it is given elsewhere; it may also 
be broiled on the ear, stewed in milk, or made into a 
pudding with milk and eggs. A good vegetable dish 
is made by cutting cold boiled sugar-beets in small 
dice, mixing a pint with a pint of milk, three eggs, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt and j^epper, and baking 
them as a vegetable; this is a favorite South Carolina 
dish. Colcannon is made of potatoes and cabbage 
chopped, fried with butter, pepper, and salt, and then 
pressed down in a dish or pudding mould and browned 
in a hot oven; made from summer cabbage and new 
potatoes this dish is excellent. 



A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT. 335 



CHAPTER XXXIII. 

A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT, AND SOMETHING ABOUT 

BREAKFAST. 

If certain conditions indispensable to the success 
of the scheme of living which is here set forth are 
disregarded, housekeepers cannot hope to attain the 
promised result. To act upon the ground laid out in 
one or two of the chapters, with the suj^position that 
the result obtained will be a fair example of that which 
might follow the practice of the entire scheme, would 
be fatuitous. To comment upon a doorway as repre- 
senting the possibilities of living offered by a house 
would be equally sensible with the conclusion that 
every two or three thousand words out of a possible 
hundred thousand must be an epitome of the entire 
number. While the writer aimed to give many sea- 
sonable hints as the series progressed, she could not 
expect any reader to master or even comprehend the 
possible results of her system until it should be fully 
outlined. However, it may be said in passing, to those 
who are not familiar with her facilities for under- 
standing the needs of housekeepers and her practical 
ability to meet them, that she has for some ten or 
twelve years been in a position to answer the ques- 
tions of housekeepers all over the country, and it is 
quite probable that if a measure of success had not 
attended her suggestions she would by this time have 
been known as a pretender rather than as an instructor. 
To those newly alive to the difficulties of the domestic 
25 



386 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

situation be it said that the Harpers are not publishing 
the theories of a young experimenter, but the conclu- 
sions of an exact investigator. And, moreover, these 
very pages were suggested by the fact that a number 
of comfortable households in New York have for some 
time been living upon the plan which is here being 
outlined. For the immediate comfort of those newly 
aroused friends who are fearful that they will have 
nothing for breakfast, luncheon, or supper, because an 
unusually attractive dinner is offered them now and 
then, a chapter may be devoted to the details of an 
experiment made in the writer's family in midsummer, 
in a year when prices prevailed on an average similar 
to the general. The family consisted of five per- 
sons with normal appetites, all interested in a lively 
discussion which was then going on in the columns of 
the New York Tribune. A well-known writer, Shirley 
Dare, had asserted that two dollars per week for each 
person, in a family of not less than six, was an ample 
table allowance for the season. Not a little derision 
was indulged in apropos of the possible character of 
the meals for six persons which should cost only about 
fifty-seven cents each. As the writer is nothing if not 
matter-of-fact, she at once put her household upon the 
proposed financial limit. An inventory was made of 
the storeroom supj^lies, and the quantity requisite for 
a week's use was set aside and valued at the actual 
cost. The fresh meats, fish, vegetables, and fruit were 
bought at Fulton Market, the car fare and exi^ressage 
being included in the cost; the milk, eggs, and butter 
came from the local dealer. In order that there should 
be no waste there was a personal supervision of cook- 
ery, service, and the food remaining after each meal — 
just what the present scheme of living demands. The 



A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT. 



387 



fact that the same article of food used for dmner re- 
appears at breakfast or luncheon is evidence that the 
supply was ample. To show that the fare was varied 
and palatable, the bills of fare for the entire week are 
given below; recipes of the least-known dishes are 
also given, and all are described within this book : 

SUNDAY. 

Breahfast. 
Fried scallops. Fried potatoes. Peaches. 
Vienna rolls. Coffee. 

Din ner. 

Roast Duck. Succotash. Fresh tomatoes. Baked new 

potatoes. Bread. Muskmelon. Tea. 

Supper. 
Biscuit. Peaches and cream. Cookies. Tea. 

MONDAY. 

Breakfast. 

Fried hacon. Fried succotash and potatoes. 

Cucumbers. Rolls. Coffee. 

Luncheon. 

Cold duck. Peaches. Rolls. Tea. 

Dinner. 

Lamb chops. Green corn. Potatoes. Lettuce. 

Bread. Bartlett pears. Tea. 

TUESDAY. 

Breakfast. 

Fried tomatoes. Fried bashed potatoes. Ham. 

Graham bread. Coffee. 

Lunclieon. 

Peaches and cream. Rolls. Cookies. Tea. 

Dinner. 

Broiled bluefish. Porterhouse steak. Potatoes, Green com. 

Watercresses. Bread. Peaches. Tea. 



388 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



WEDNESDAY. 

Breakfast. 

Scalloped bluefisli. Fried egg-plant. Fried potatoes. 

Frencli rolls. Coffee. 

Luncheon. 

Peaclies and cream. Graliam bread. Rusks. Tea. 

Dinner. 

Roast chicken 'witli baked potatoes. Stewed okra. Baked 

corn. Bread. Muskmelon. Tea. 

THURSDAY. 

Breahfast. 

Lamb cliops. Fried tomatoes. Stewed okra. Fried potatoes. 

Vienna rolls. Coffee. 

Lunclieon. 

Cold chicken. Rolls. Rusk. Muskmelon. Tea. 

Dinner. 

Roast lamb with baked potatoes. Green corn. Sweet potatoes. 

Lettuce. Bread. Watermelon. Tea. 

FRIDAY. 

Breakfast. 

Broiled bacon. Fried corn and potatoes. Fried egg-plant. 

Vienna bread. Coffee. 

Liinclieon. 

Peaches and cream. Rolls. Rusk. Tea. 

Dinner. 

Porterhouse steak. Pilaff of lamb. Potatoes. Lima beans. 

Bread. Cookies. Peaches. Tea. 

SATURDAY. 

Breakfast. 
Broiled beefsteak. Fried beans and potatoes. 
Vienna rolls. Coffee. 

Luncheon. 
Pilaff. Peaches. Rolls. Cookies. Tea. 



A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT. 



389 



Dinner. 

Broiled bluefish. Lamb chops. Green corn. Rice and 

muslirooms. Potatoes. Bread. Peaches. Tea. 

The supplies used during this experiment were all 
bought at retail prices, and without that careful whole- 
sale calculation which insures a profitable balance to 
the purchaser of at least twenty-five per cent. The 
point is reiterated, that every advantage must be taken 
of the favorable condition of the market, all tempora- 
rily cheap perishable goods being so cooked or canned 
as to preserve them for future use. 

A plan for co-operative marketing is outlined else- 
where which would greatly favor such an experiment ; 
the rest of this space must be devoted to recipes for 
some of the dishes noted above. One of the first 
dishes is fried scallops, a favorite New York dish. 
The scallops reach the market fresh from Long Island, 
and are a savory and inviting repast to the lovers of 
sea-food; they are to be washed in cold water, rolled 
in a towel until dry, and then either breaded and fried 
according to directions already given, or rolled in In- 
dian meal and fried with slices of salt pork, or covered 
with flour seasoned with salt and pepper, and then 
fried in enough drippings to prevent burning. When 
there is no prejudice against the use of olive-oil in 
frying, the scallops gain an added flavor from it, but 
it is rather expensive; fine cotton-seed or peanut oil, 
when sweet and fresh, is an excellent frying medium. 

For scalloped blue-fish, or any fresh fish, take out 
all the bones, leaving the fish in flakes, but do not re- 
move the skin unless it is objectionable; make a white 
sauce by melting a tablespoonful of butter with one 
of flour, then gradually stirring in a pint of boiling 
water smoothly, and seasoning it with salt and white 



390 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

pepper; when the sauce boils, use it to moisten the 
fish; if a larger dish is required, put layers of bread- 
crumbs in the dish with the fish, seasoning each layer, 
and moistening them with sauce; dust crumbs over 
the top, and quickly brown the scalloped fish in the 
oven. Serve it hot. 

A very palatable and economical dish called a pilaff 
can be made from lamb or any cold meat; as its name 
indicates, the dish is Arabian in character. Cut the 
meat in small dice; put it over the fire in a saucepan 
to fry with its own fat chopped, or with driiDpings or 
butter enough to prevent burning; a little chopped 
onion is usually fried with the meat. Fry also a cup- 
ful of rice, which has been washed and dried, until it 
begins to brown, with the meat, or in a separate uten- 
sil if there is any lack of surface, stirring the rice to 
insure even browning; Avhen rice and meat are brown, 
add to them a pint or more of tomatoes peeled and 
sliced, and a pint of boiling water; as the rice cooks, 
the water will be absorbed, and more must be added, 
but in small quantities, so that when the rice is tender, 
which will be in about twenty or thirty minutes, it 
will be just moist; a palatable seasoning of salt and 
pepper completes the dish, which is to be served hot. 
A cupful each of meat and rice will make a large dish 
of pilaff. 

Similar in character is the dish of rice and mush- 
rooms. Peel and slice a small onion, put it over the 
fire with a cupful of rice, washed and dried, and two 
or three tablespoonfuls of drippings or butter; stir 
the rice so that it may brown evenly, and meantime 
carefully wash and chop the stems from a quart of 
fresh mushrooms and the broken caps, reserving the 
whole ones to bake; when the rice is brown, add the 



A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT. 39 x 

chopped mushrooms and a pint of boiling water; as 
the rice cooks, add water enough to keep it moist, and 
a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper; when the 
rice is tender, which will be in about half an hour, serve 
it hot. This is an excellent dish for luncheon or sup- 
per, or it can be used as a vegetable for dinner. The 
caps or toj^s of the mushrooms, after they are washed, 
and-the defective portions trimmed away, can be best 
cooked by laying them on small slices of buttered 
bread with a dust of salt and pepper and a small bit 
of butter in each cap, and baking them in a very hot 
oven; the mushrooms will be done by the time the 
bread is brown, if they are fresh, and they should be 
served at once on a hot dish. 

A very satisfactory thing was said recently in the 
course of a discussion upon this series of papers. The 
point in question was special marketing for breakfast 
and luncheon. The speaker was of the type of wom- 
en peculiar to this country — cultured to the point of 
social supremacy, and still young enough to aspire to 
it; practised in the numberless graceful economies 
possible or imperative to many such women in their 
intellectual and artistic way of living; bright, healthy, 
alert mentally to perceive and physically to attain 
every advantage of circumstance. Said she, after hav- 
ing outlined a dinner which very nearly filled the mar- 
gin of daily expenditure, in answer to a question about 
marketing for the chief breakfast dish: " But I seldom 
market for that. We have good breakfasts, because 
my husband is a hard worker." (He is a rising young 
lawyer.) "We buy our dry groceries in quantities; 
tea, coffee, sugar, oatmeal, etc., are in the house, as 
well as eggs and butter. If there is steak, it is part 
of a larger one than has been needed for dinner, cut 



392 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

off and reseiwed uncooked; or chops, they have been 
taken from the roast before it is dressed. But usually 
there are croquettes, meat-balls or mince on toast, or 
rewarmed fish, the basis of which remains from some 
previous dinner, and eggs fried, boiled, or in omelet. 
Always there is some inexpensive fruit, either fresh 
or stewed, a good dish of oatmeal with milk and sugar, 
or hominy, samp, or rice; sometimes these are fried 
for a change. A few potatoes more than are needed 
are boiled at dinner-time, and in the morning are 
hashed and fried, or stewed in white sauce; when too 
many mashed potatoes have been prepared, they serve 
the next day as croquettes or Duchesse loaves. If fish 
remains from dinner, it is rewarmed in its sauce, or 
minced with potatoes, or made into balls or croquettes. 
Then there are waffles or griddle-cakes occasionally. 
This gives us such a breakfast: fresh or stewed fruit; 
oatmeal, rice, hominy, or grits; meat croquettes, mince 
on toast, rewarmed fish, or fish-cakes; eggs, boiled or 
fried or omelet; potatoes, stewed or fried; coffee, 
milk, bread and butter; hot bread or cakes." 

When one thinks of it, this sort of a breakfast is quite 
as good as a more expensive one w^here there is one 
large dish of meat. Setting aside individual peculiar- 
ities which have a definite physical basis, the prepara- 
tion of an attractive morning meal becomes a triumj^h 
of economical resource. The wise housekeeper will 
not discuss it much with her family, however much 
she may ponder over it in private; for second in per- 
niciousness only to the dying idea on the part of fool- 
ish servants that economy in details is based on penu- 
riousness is the fostering of morbid appetites. As a 
matter of fact, we generally eat what is set before us, 
unless it is too utterly bad, so largely is appetite the 



A MIDSUMMER EXPERIMENT. 393 

result of habit. And the woman who caters to diges- 
tive cranks, large or small, does well to deliberate in 
secret session what sort of fare is at once harmless, at- 
tractive, and economical. If only the most expensive 
dishes can be digested, and there is a limit to expendi- 
ture, the way of the provider is indeed hard; but given 
a normally healthy appetite and ordinary market fa- 
cilities, the breakfast-table may be made more inviting 
with every change of season and supplies. 



394 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



CHAPTER XXXIV. 

AUTUMNDINNERS. 

In most cities the fare of early autumn differs from 
that of late summer but slightly, and the luxuries of 
field, orchard, and vineyard are at their prime. For 
the early Sejitember days, while the summer heat yet 
lingers, the housewife may still be gratified by a din- 
ner w^ithout meat; the fish offered in its place, stur- 
geon, which is at its latest and best, resembles delicate 
veal in flavor and texture. Any light meat or poultry 

m.ay replace it. 

Jerusalem articliokc soup. 

New potatoes stewed in cream. 

Baked sturgeon with brown gravy. 

Salad of artichokes and cress. 

Cream-cliecse with water crackers. 

Peach short-cake, or plum tart. 

As the short-cake is to be used cold, it can be made 
at any convenient time of day, according to the direc- 
tions previously given for strawberry short-cake, ripe 
peaches, peeled and sliced, being substituted for the 
strawberries. Raspberries, blackberries, and subacid 
plums all make good short-cake. A practice largely 
prevails in New York of using a sort of cup-cake in- 
stead of genuine short-cake, but the result is question- 
able. Another delicious dessert is a tart made of ripe 
fruit, especially if some whipped cream is available to 
serve with it; the cream may be sweetened before it 
is whipped, if that is desirable. There are many de- 



AUTUMN DINNERS. 



395 



vices for whipping cream, but the simplest and most 
effective is several loops of wire bound together at one 
end to form a handle; such a whip or beater can easily 
be made at home by any ingenious person, and serves as 
well for beating eggs, mixing mayonnaise, etc. To pre- 
pare whipped cream, let it be cool; have ready a skim- 
mer, a colander set in an earthen dish, and a large bowl 
for the cream: whip it with an even, quick stroke for 
two or three minutes, until a froth rises; then let it 
remain undisturbed for a moment; the large bubbles 
upon the surface will burst, and the smaller ones co- 
here so that they can be lifted in a mass with the skim- 
mer from the surface of the cream and transferred to 
the colander; the liquid cream will drain into the dish, 
and can be poured back into the bowl to be whipped 
again. After skimming off the froth, again whip the 
cream and remove the coherent froth; so proceed un- 
til all is whipped, and allow it to remain in the colan- 
der, in a cool place, until it is required for use. Some 
cooks mix a little melted gelatine or white of egg with 
whipped cream to stiffen it, but the delicacy is thus im- 
paired. The English do not usually sweeten cream 
which is to be served with fruit tarts; it is lightly 
heaped on a pretty dish, and sent in with the tart. A 
good recipe has been given for light pastry; very firm 
lard made at home is excellent for pastry; if butter 
is used, all the buttermilk should be washed out of it, 
and care taken not to melt it in making the pastry; if 
this is mixed with very cold water in a cool place, the 
chances are better for its lightness than when it is 
heated or carelessly handled; such treatment ruins 
pastry. 

Before the pastry is made, prepare ripe plums by 
removing the stems and stones, and heap them in 



396 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



an oval or round deep earthen dish; sprmkle them 
judiciously with granulated sugar, wet the edge of 
the dish, and lay on the npper crust; or first line the 
sides of the dish with a strip of pastry, and then 
brush that with cold water to make the top crust ad- 
here; do not flatten or press the edges of the pastry, 
but after putting on the top crust cut them at intervals 
of half an inch with a sharp knife; bend the forefinger 
a little, and press it on the upper crust just within the 
edge of the dish, so as to form a groove about a quarter 
of an inch deep all around the tart; cut several small 
slits through the pastry in the groove, so that the 
fruit juice can escape into it, and thus prevent its loss 
from the edges of the crust; cut small slits in several 
parts of the crust; if a glossy surface is desired, brush 
it with beaten egg, and then bake the tart in a mod- 
erate oven. The cream-cheese can be bought at the 
fruiterer's or at fine grocery stores for twenty cents a 
cake, large enough for two or three desserts of our 
proportions ; or small Brie cheeses for less than a 
quarter. If put in a cool place, protected from flies, 
either will keep good for several days. It is excellent 
for salads, sandwiches, and curd cakes. 

The sturgeon should be baked about an hour. As 
the fish appears on the stands it is free from skin, and 
generally cut in pieces a foot or more square. In buy- 
hig it the fact should be remembered that there is no 
waste, and that it is quite as satisfactory to the appe- 
tite as the more delicate meats, such as veal and poul- 
try. Before putting the fish in the oven, wash it with 
cold water, season it with pepper and salt, and put in 
the pan with it any vegetables or herbs desired for 
flavoring the gravy. A little water may be added, if 
it is in danger of burning, but no drippings or butter 



AUTUMN DINNER3. 397 

are needed, because the fish is very oily. After the 
sturgeon has been cooked until it looks firm and white, 
like choice veal, keep it hot while the gravy is made 
as follows: set the pan containing the vegetables baked 
with the sturgeon over the fire, stir in a heaping table- 
spoonful of dry flour until it is brown, then gradually 
stir in a pint of boiling water, season the gravy pala- 
tably with salt and pepper, let it boil for a minute, rub 
it through a sieve or colander to insure smoothness, 
and then serve it with the baked fish. When salt pork 
is liked, the fish may be cut two or three inches thick, 
larded like a fricandeau of veal, and cooked and served 
in a similar manner. 

The artichokes for the soup and salad can be boiled 
together, after being thoroughly washed with a cloth 
or brush in cold water; if they are first peeled or 
scraped they must be put directly in cold water con- 
taining salt and a little vinegar to keep them white 
until all are peeled, and then boiled until tender in 
salted boiling water, but not allowed to become soft 
enough to break. All root, or Jerusalem, artichokes 
are more or less watery, their substance when cooked 
resembling that of kohl-rabi, and their flavor that of 
the garden or globe artichoke, which is also in season, 
but rather beyond our limit of price. The Jerusalem 
artichokes sell at about ten cents a quart; they look 
like uneven potatoes, and vary in color like them; the 
finest specimens are seen in the markets of Montreal, 
where they are as cheap and plentiful as potatoes. 
For the salad the artichokes are to be sliced and ar- 
ranged on a salad dish with water-cress, being dressed 
with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar just before serv- 
ing. A puree or pulp of boiled artichokes, rubbed 
through a colander with a potato-masher, mixed with 



398 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAE. 

a cream soup, can be qnicldy made; the cream soup 
is prepared by stirring butter and flour together over 
the fire until they bubble — a tablespoonf ul of each for 
a quart of soup — and then gradually mixing in a quart 
of hot milk or milk and water, and a good seasoning 
of salt and white pepper. The same combination of 
flour, butter, milk, and seasoning — half the quantity 
of milk being used — gives the cream sauce required 
for the potatoes; the small new potatoes from Long 
Island are very good, first scraped and boiled only 
tender in salted water, and then drained and served 
in cream sauce, or in a white sauce made in the same 
way, with the substitution of hot water in place of the 
milk. 

Another good September bill of fare is: 

Brunswick stew. 

Point Shirley fish barbecue. 

Sweet-corn with butter. 

Curry of duck witli rice. 

Breast of duck broiled. 

Apple short-cake. 

The first dish is of the composite kind which may form 
the bulk of a hearty meal in household emergencies. 
Although squirrels are called for, rabbit, hare, chicken, 
or even a piece of tender beef will make a good Bruns- 
wick stew; the hare, squirrel, or rabbit would have to 
be skinned and cut in joints, the chicken prepared as 
for fricassee, or the beef cut in small pieces. To skin 
the small game, cut through the skin of the under part, 
from the neck downward to the tail; either cut off 
the feet when they are reached, and turn the skin off 
the legs as a glove would be turned off the fingers, or 
cut down the inside of the legs and turn the skin back 
until they are free; then turn and cut it downward 



AUTUMN DINNEKS. 



399 



and off the entire body, holding the carcass by the 
head, or hanging it np; cut all the fleshy bands or 
ligaments, and work cautiously to avoid tearing the 
skin. When it is quite separated from the carcass, 
wipe the latter with a wet towel to free it from hairs; 
remove the entrails without breaking them; save all 
the blood to add to the gravy, and be sure that all the 
hairs are taken off. 

To make a Brunswick stew with rabbit (or any other 
meat), have about two pounds of meat cut in medium- 
sized pieces, put it over the fire with two quarts of 
cold water, and let them heat gradually; meantime 
peel and slice a quart of tomatoes and one sweet onion, 
shell a pint of Lima beans, and cut from the cob the 
same quantity of green corn; add these ingredients 
to the meat, with a palatable seasoning of salt and pep- 
per; cover the saucepan, and cook the stew gently for 
about four hours, then add to it six medium-sized po- 
tatoes peeled and sliced; stir the stew frequently after 
the potatoes are added, to prevent burning, and when 
they are just tender melt a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter in the stew, and serve it hot, after removing the 
bones. A quarter of a pound of salt pork cut in dice 
is sometimes added to this stew; sweet potatoes some- 
times enter into it; indeed, there are many excellent 
local recipes for making this famous Virginia dish, 
some of which were referred to in Chapter XIX. 

Next to the Brunswick stew the dish requiring the 
longest time for making is the apple short-cake. For 
a medium-sized cake prepare about a quart of apples 
by peeling, cutting in eighths, and stewing them gen- 
tly, until tender, in a syrup made by boiling about two 
cupfuls of granulated sugar with a little water until 
it begins to thicken; at this point put in the apples 



400 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



and cook them slowly, taking care that they do not 
break. Follow the directions previously given for 
making short-cake proper, or use a good biscuit dough. 
Tear the short-cake open with a fork w^hen it is done, 
butter it while it is still warm, put in the stewed apple 
as the berries are used, and dust the short-cake plenti- 
fully with powdered sugar. The syrup in which the 
apples were stewed may be poured over the short-cake 
when it is served, or sweet cream may be used, although 
this increases the cost of the dish. 

The next dish in point of time is the curry of duck: 
after the feathers are removed, the bird singed, drawn, 
and wiped with a wet towel, hut not washed, it is to be 
cut in joints, reserving the breast entire, the rest being 
put into a saucej^an with enough butter to prevent burn- 
ing, and quickly browned over a hot fire; a small onion 
is to be peeled, cut thin, and fried with the duck. When 
the duck is brown, a heaping tablespoonf ul of dry 
flour is to be stirred through it until it is brown, then 
boiling water enough to cover it is poured in, and salt 
and pepper used for seasoning. The duck is to be 
gently simmered until tender; a tablespoonf ul of cur- 
ly powder is a moderate seasoning; if it is added be- 
fore the duck is cooked, the curry will be less pungent 
than if it is put in directly before the dish is served. 
A cupful of grated cocoanut, or a large sour apple 
peeled and cored, may be cooked with the curry at will. 
After the curry is prepared to the point of simmering, 
pick over a cupful of rice, wash it in cold water, put 
it over the fire in a large saucepan of actually boiling 
salted water, and boil it fast for ten minutes; then 
drain it, cover it with a thickly folded towel, set the 
saucepan in the oven, leaving the door open, or on a 
brick on the back of the stove, and steam the rice for 



AUTUMN DINNERS. 



401 



about twelve minutes, or until the grains are dry and 
just tender. A border may be made of the rice, or it 
may be served in a separate dish. 

The Point Shirley barbecue may be made of any 
large, well-flavored fish ; it is to be scaled, washed in 
plenty of cold salted water, put into a dripping-pan 
with just enough hot water to cover the fish two 
thirds; dissolve in it a quarter of a pound of butter 
for every three or four pounds of fish, add a palatable 
seasoning of salt and pepper, and bake the fish ; every 
ten minutes pierce it repeatedly with a fork, dredge it 
with dry flour, and baste it with the butter and wa- 
ter in the pan; cook the fish about fifteen minutes to a 
pound. When the flakes begin to separate, or a piece 
of the back fin can easily be pulled off, the fish is done, 
and should be dished without breaking, some of the 
gravy in the pan being sent to table. A dish of plain 
boiled potatoes should be served with it. This fish, 
like the Brunswick stew, may be made the basis of a 
simple family dinner. 

Late in the green-corn season, when the vegetable 
becomes a little hard from maturity, it may be accept- 
ably prepared for the table by stewing it with but- 
ter. After the husks and silk are removed, cut down 
through the middle of each row of grains, turn the 
back of the knife to the cob, and with it scrape and 
force out the tender part of the kernels of corn which 
lie beneath the skin; put these into a thick sauce- 
pan with plenty of butter, salt, and pepper, and just 
enough milk or cream to cover them, and stew them 
gently for ten or fifteen minutes, only until they seem 
juicy and tender; then serve the corn hot. 

The breast of duck should be served directly it is 
cooked, to be at its best; remove all the feathers, put 
26 



402 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

it between the bars of a buttered double wire gridiron, 
broil it quickly, rather rare, over a clear fire; season 
it with salt, pepper, and butter, and serve it as soon as 
it is done. Any fresh green salad w^ith French dress- 
ing, or sour oranges sliced and dressed w^ith salt, oil, 
and cayenne, or any acid jelly melted with a little 
French mustard, will make a good accompaniment for 
the broiled duck. 

The little dinner next proposed includes both soup 
and lish, and gives only one meat (or rather poultry) 
dish, in the cooking of which the soup is concerned: 

Potage a la reine. 

Smelts breaded and fried. 

Duchesse loaves. 

Rice croquettes with brown sauce. 

Roast chicken with liver sauce. 

Cabbage and tomato salad. 

Orange fritters. 

Fruits. Nuts. 

Coffee. 

•According to our custom, we will begin with direc- 
tions for the dish which requires the longest time for 
cooking — the chicken. If cost were not an item of 
importance, a choice bird might be used (of all poultry, 
capons are the finest), but a fowl of four or five pounds 
must suffice. The bird need not be excessively fat, 
but it should have small bones, well covered with 
rather light flesh; dark purplish flesh showing through 
the skin indicates an old fowl the flesh of which has 
not been renewed by special feeding for the market. 
In a young bird the lower end of the breast-bone will 
be so soft as to bend easily beneath the pressure of 
the fingers; in fact, the cartilage there has not yet 
hardened into bone. In an old bird tlie tip of the 
breast-bone is hard and pointed. The skin of a fowl 



AUTUMN DINNERS. 4Q3 

in good condition will look clean, and be underlaid 
with more or less fat, the eyes will be bright, and the 
joints flexible, unless the bird is frozen. If the fowl 
is frozen, soak it, without cutting it, in cold water 
enough to cover it, until the frost is all drawn out; 
otherwise, carefully remove all feathers, singe the hairs 
off with a piece of paper lighted or a little alcohol 
burning upon a plate, and then wipe it thoroughly 
with a wet towel. Cut off the head, and skin it; cut 
off the neck close to the bod}^, and the first joint of 
the wings; cut off the feet, and scald them, so that 
the scales can be scraped off, and then cut off the claws. 
Boil all these parts with the chicken in the soup until 
the flesh and skin are tender enough to rub through 
a sieve with a potato-masher, making a scant cupful 
of puree, which is to be used in finishing the soup. 
Draw the bird, without breaking the intestines, and 
clean the heart, gizzard, and liver, being careful not to 
break the gall at one side of the liver, because the bit- 
ter fluid it contains will spoil any part of the chicken 
it touches. In drawing a fowl French cooks do not 
take away the dark portions embedded in the hollows 
of the backbone, which look like liver, or the bright 
red lungs that lie under the ribs; if either part is 
taken away, it should be cooked with the giblets, as 
also should the kidney-shaped organs or the eggs, when 
either are found. If the fowl is carefully drawn, 
without breaking the intestines, it will not need to be 
washed, unless the object is to deprive it of blood, ac- 
cording to the Hebraic rule. 

The legs and wings are to be secured close to the 
body of the bird, and it is to be put over the fire in 
enough boiling water to cover it, with salt to make a 
palatable broth, and an inch bit of dried red pepper- 



404 FAMILY LIVING ON fSOO A YEAR. 

pod, or a dozen peppercorns. The foAvl is to be boiled 
very slowly for two hours, or until it begins to grow 
tender. When the fowl grows tender it is to be taken 
from the broth and browned in a very hot oven, being 
dredged w'ith flour if a frothed appearance is desired. 
It may be stuffed w^ith any cooked force-meat, or with 
oysters, or chopped celery which has been j^arboiled, 
before browning it. The sauce is made by boiling 
the liver, heart, gizzard, and other giblets in enough 
water to cover them, wdth a little salt and pepper, until 
they are tender; they are then to be chopped very fine, 
browned quickly wdth a level tablespoonful each of 
butter and flour, and again blended with the w^ater 
in which they were boiled, and the grated rind and 
juice of a lemon, and this sauce served hot with the 
chicken. 

After the chicken is taken up, half a cupful of rice 
is to be boiled in the broth until it and the flesh of 
the neck are tender enough to rub through a sieve 
with a potato-masher; the puree of chicken, the rice, 
and the broth mixed together, seasoned palatably with 
salt, white pepper, and grated nutmeg, and boiled once, 
will form the soup; if the soup is thicker than thick 
cream, a little boiling milk should be stirred with it 
to make it of an acceptable consistency. AVhen there 
is cold chicken on hand, boil it w^ith an equal quantity 
of rice in chicken broth, or in water, wdth the chicken 
bones, until it can be rubbed through a sieve, and then 
finish the soup as directed above. 

The rice croquettes are to be formed from half a 
cupful of rice boiled tender in salted boiling water, 
then drained, seasoned with salt and pepper, and bound 
with one or two raw eggs mixed with the rice while 
it is hot. After the rice is cool, wet the hands in cold 



AUTUMN DINNERS. 



405 



water, take it up by the tablespoonful, and shape it 
like large corks or pears; roll the croquettes first in 
cracker dust, then in beaten egg^ and again in cracker 
dust, and fry them brown in smoking-hot fat; after 
taking them out of the fat with a skimmer, lay them 
on brown paper for a moment to free them from 
grease, and then serve them. Any good gravy may 
be heated for them, or a brown sauce made by stirring 
over the fire until they are light brown a tablespoon- 
ful each of butter and flour, then gradually stirring in 
a pint of boiling water, and a palatable seasoning of 
salt and pepper; as soon as this sauce boils it is ready 
to use. 

The Dicchesse loaves are made of mashed potato; a 
cupful heated, seasoned with salt and pepper, and mixed 
with the yolk of a raw egg, is made into little loaves 
half an inch thick, an inch wide, and two inches long; 
the loaves are brushed with the white of an esfir, and 
browned slightly in a hot oven. 

The process of breading smelts differs a little from 
the ordinary way; the smelts are wiped clean, dipped 
in a little milk, then rolled in cracker dust, dipped in 
beaten egg, and again rolled in cracker dust, and fried 
brown in plenty of smoking-hot fat, being laid upon 
brown paper for a moment, after they are taken from 
the fat, to free them from grease. If they are entirely 
covered with egg and crumbs, they will not impart 
any taste to the fat; but many cooks keep a special 
frying-kettle for fish. 

The salad is made of crisp and tender cabbage 
thinly shaved, one or two tomatoes sliced, and the 
plain dressing of three times as much oil as vinegar, 
and a palatable seasoning of salt and pepper. In sea- 
son, fresh tomatoes are best, but there are some canned 



40G 



FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 



brands so perfect that the tomatoes are quite firm 
enough to slice. 

Fritters made from Florida oranges are delicious. 
The oranges may be peeled and quartered or sliced, 
the seeds being removed, and then dipped in batter 
and fried in smoking-hot fat; like all fried articles, 
they are taken up Avith a skimmer, and laid for a mo- 
ment on brown paper to free them from grease. A 
delicious batter can be made as follows: put a cupful 
of flour in a bowl, mix Avith it the yolk of a raw egg, 
a level teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of salad- 
oil, and sufficient cold water to make a batter thick 
enough to hold a drop let fall from the mixing spoon; 
just before using the batter, beat the white of an egg 
to a stiff froth, mix it lightly with the batter, and use 
it at once. The fritters are to be dusted with pow- 
dered sugar after they are fried. 



THANKSGIVING DINNERS. 4Q7 



CHAPTER XXXV. 

THANKSGIVING DINNEES. 

The casements fast, the heavy curtains so close 
drawn that the only visible sign of the driving fall 
storm outside is some fitful gust which sweeps down 
chimney to blow the glowing back-log to a flame, 
while one, half dreaming over " gentle Elia's " pages, 
sees a vision of ISTovember " in a garment of change- 
able green and black, upon his head a garland of olives, 
with the fruit in his left hand, bunches of parsnips 
and turnips in his right;" great golden pumpkins heap 
themselves there too, in the coals, and the leaj)ing 
lights shine through ricks of yellow corn; the visible 
fulness of the harvest burns there — pine cones and the 
drift of the woods — until the mortal mood glows like- 
wise, and assumes congenial warmth of thankfulness. 

In no place as in New England, or where Xew Eng- 
land's sons and daughters sojourn, does the Thanks- 
giving season seem complete; and no sort of homely 
feasting ever attains the absolute comfort of an old- 
fashioned New England Thanksgiving Day dinner. 
The many scattered children of that rocky soil from 
which their forefathers wrung scant living will wel- 
come this recall of the old-time festivity, even if they 
cannot perfectly reproduce it. 

There is a distinction without much difference in 
the dinners at the coast and in the interior; on farms 
and in villages away from the railroads fresh fish is 



408 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

seldom used, v/Lile on the coast baked tautog is a 
prime Thanksgiving hixuiy; oysters reach the interior 
both in cans and in the shells, and are regarded as 
special rarities worthy to be served at the greatest 
festivals; then, too, away from the large towns game 
birds are rarely cooked, partridge being the exception; 
so much of an immunity does that proverbially shy 
bird enjoy even on the tourist-haunted slopes of Pro- 
file Mountain that a hen and her brood of five young 
birds as large as ordinary spring chickens let our 
climbing party approach and knock over one with a 
walking-stick; and all the autumn the clucking and 
drummino: of the old birds have been audible from 
our windows. Even the interior dinners might be 
varied with game, for in addition to the partridge 
there are plenty of woodcock, wald duck, and herons, 
to say nothing of a Gargantuan widow's cruse full of 
young rooks for pies. 

A typical dinner near the New England coast would 
be somewhat as follows: 

Baked tautog. 

Boiled chicken with oyster sauce. 

Potatoes. Beets. Onions. Mashed turnips and 

squash. Sweet potatoes. 

Beef d la mode. 

Roast turkey with cranberry jelly. 

Roast venison witli currant jelly. Assorted pickles. 

Roast or baked partridge or wild duck. 

Celery. 

Plum-pudding. Various cakes. 

Apple, mince, squash, pumpkin, and custard pies. 

Cider. Nuts. Apples. Raisins. Coffee. 

The fish is stuffed with a force-meat seasoned with 
summer-savory or marjoram, and baked with a few 



THANKSGIVING DINNERS. 



409 



slices of salt pork in the pan, a brown gravy being 
made with the drippings. The chicken is stuffed with 
bread and oysters, boiled slowly until tender, and 
served with a sauce made from the broth and oyster 
liquor thickened w^ith flour, and seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and butter, a few oysters being scalded in the 
sauce. The turkey is stuffed with bread soaked soft 
and seasoned with sage, salt, pepper, butter, and some- 
times a little onion, and then roasted or baked, and 
served, like the fish, with a brown gravy made from 
its own drippings. The partridge and duck are some- 
times parboiled, if there is any doubt of their tender- 
ness, and then baked, sometimes with stuffing, and 
served with a gravy made from the drippings. The 
venison is baked, and served with brown gravy and 
currant jelly. Contrary to accepted usage, all the 
game is cooked well done in the country. The plum- 
pudding and various pies are made specially rich to 
do honor to the season, and the other sweets are pro- 
fuse. The farther one goes into the interior, the 
greater is found the supply of pies and cakes. 

Much sarcasm is called forth by the New England 
custom of using such food to excess, but it does not 
seem so very absurd to those "to the manner born." 
The fact is that many of the pickles are sweetened 
and spiced, especially in regions where maple sugar is 
made, and the crust of the pies is so plain as to be al- 
most like bread; the doughnuts eaten with coffee for 
breakfast are but little sweeter than French and Ger- 
man coffee-cake. But the pastry and cake for festi- 
vals are much richer, and generally well made, each 
hostess striving to outdo the most notable housewives 
among her guests. It seems also that the company 
dinners of the interior are more profuse in quantity 



410 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

and variety than those of the towns ; all the good 
things in the form of j^reserves, jellies, and pickles 
(sour and sweet), and all the favorite pies and pud- 
dings are made, except perhaps plum-pudding, which 
some reserve solely for the Christmas dinner; but 
generally throughout ]!!^ew England more attention is 
given to Thanksgiving than to Christmas — the linger- 
ing trace of the old Puritans' and Covenanters' protest 
against the observance of the highest festival of the 
Established Church. 

The next bill of fare may seem exaggerated, but 
the reader must remember that many of the Thanks- 
givings in the interior, especially upon large farms, 
are family gatherings to which the children of sev- 
eral generations come, and all traditions of mother's 
and grandmother's culinary skill must be sustained; 
every homely dainty is called out from the shadows 
of the pantry and spring-house, and the embers re- 
vived in the old brick oven and under the back-log in 
fireplaces where the modern cooking stove burns all 
the rest of the year. If the feast seems heroic, so too 
are the appetites of the guests, tempered to meet the 
exigencies of the exceptional occasion. We will sup- 
pose that oysters are available, for some effort is usu- 
ally made to obtain them; and preference is generally 
given to the frying of them, as evincing the most con- 
sideration in treating the unusual luxury. The bill 
of fare then will be: 

Fried oysters, or oyster stew. 

Baked chicken pie. 

Sweet and sour pickles and catsup. 

Mashed potatoes and turnips. Boiled -^-hole potatoes. 

Boiled onions. Baked beets. Squash. 

Roast spareribs with stuffing and apple-sauce. 

Roast turkey, goose, or chicken with cranberry-sauce. 



THANKSGIVING DINNERS. 4^ 

Fried sausage "with fried apples. 

Baked Indian pudding. Steamed fruit or cracker pudding. 

Mince, apple, squash, pumpkin, and berry pies with clieese. 

Doughnuts, crullers, cookies, cup cakes, gold-and-silver, marble, 

and sponge cakes. 

Washington pie. Various preserves. 

Cider. Home-made wines and shrub. 

When the oysters are stewed, milk or cream is added, 
and sometimes cracker crumbs. Among the vegeta- 
bles, cream is added to the mashed turnips and onions, 
the beets are baked whole, then sliced, and heated in 
the oven with salt, pepper, and butter. The chicken 
for the pie is usually boiled tender before the pie is 
made, and the crust is the best which can be made; 
a good recipe has been given for this dish. When 
there is any question of the tenderness of any of the 
poultry, it is parboiled before it is stuffed, in just 
water enough to cook it, and this water is used for the 
gravy. The sausages are fried either with or without 
apples, and usually accompany roast goose. 

The sour pickles are made of small cucumbers, not 
many gherkins being raised; ripe cucumbers are cut in 
eighths and seeded, and then made into a sweet pickle; 
green tomatoes with onions and whole spice are pickled 
sweet, as also is a mixture of equal parts of tomatoes, 
green or ripe, cucumbers, cabbage, and a smaller pro- 
portion of onions; brown sugar and molasses are used 
in sweet pickles, except in localities where maple sugar 
is made; the maple sugar is more apt to ferment than 
other kinds, and consequently needs longer boiling. 
Among the preserves and jellies are blueberries or 
huckleberries, blackberries, raspberries, strawberries, 
currants, gooseberries, barberries, whole crab-apples, 
quinces, pears, and apples; the berries are freely canned 
to use in pies, and wine is made from blackberries, 



412 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

raspberries, elderberries, and currants, and also liqueurs 
and shrubs; good recipes have been given for both 
these beverages. Tea and coffee are used throughout 
the dinner, being poured at the table or on a side-table, 
according to convenience. The fruit roly-poly is made 
with plain pastry, or a suet crust, steamed and served 
with a sweet sauce made with butter and wine or spice. 
The cracker pudding, which is made with milk, eggs, 
and raisins, is served with a hard sauce of butter, sugar, 
and nutmeg, and the baked Indian pudding with sweet- 
ened cream. 

It may be well to give recipes for the latter. A 
plain Indian pudding is made as follows: scald a quart 
and a pint of milk without boiling it, take it off the 
fire, stir in half a pint of molasses, eight tablespoonfuls 
of Indian meal, any spice preferred, and a teaspoon- 
ful of salt; pour the mixture into a buttered earthen 
pudding dish, add a pint of cold milk without mixing 
it with the rest of the ingredients, and bake the pud- 
ding for six hours in a very moderately heated oven. 
Of course a hot oven would dry or burn the pudding 
long before that length of time had elapsed. Another 
Indian pudding is differently made. Into a quart of 
boiling milk stir half a pint of molasses, and three 
quarters of a pint or a cupful and a half of Indian 
meal, and let the mixture cool; meantime remove 
the membrane from half a pound of suet, and chop 
it fine ; butter an earthen pudding dish, put in the 
suet with a teaspoonful of salt, add the scalded meal 
and molasses, a quart of cold milk, and any spice pre- 
ferred; mix these ingredients thoroughly; set the dish 
in a moderate oven, pour in another pint of cold milk 
without stirring it, and bake the pudding slowly for 
six hours. The meal in the puddings would be cooked 



THANKSGIVING DINNERS. 4^3 

in four hours, but it is all the better for the long- 
continued baking. Indian puddings sometimes contain 
seeded raisins. 

Another Thankss^ivinor luxury is boiled cider. This 
is simply sweet cider slowly boiled to a semi-syrup 
over a gentle fire; the boiling takes from four to five 
hours, and the quantity is reduced to about one fifth. 
Cider apple-sauce is made by peeling and coring ap- 
ples, and boiling them to a pulp in sweet cider; the 
cider is first reduced about one half by boiling; a quart 
of the boiled cider is allowed to a peck of apples, the 
best sauce being made of half sweet and half sour ap- 
ples; a plate reversed in the bottom of the j^reserving- 
kettle lessens the tendency of the sauce to burn; boil 
the sauce for an hour; then add a pint of molasses, 
and continue the boiling very slowly and steadily for 
five hours; the heat should be only intense enough to 
maintain the boiling, and the sauce should be boiled 
until it turns red ; it should occasionally be stirred 
from the sides to prevent burning, and, as it thickens, 
the stirring must be frequent, unless the heat can 
be so graduated as to obviate all danger of burning. 
Sometimes one fourth the quantity of fruit is made up 
of quince parings when jelly or preserve is being made 
from that fruit. When the apple-sauce is cold it is 
put up in glass or stone jars or wooden buckets, and 
closed air tight, \yhen a smaller quantity of sauce is 
made, it can be boiled in about two hours if the thick 
boiled cider is used. 

To preserve the sweetness of cider, besides boiling 
down some, to at least one fourth, it may be put into 
bottles or jugs, with a lump of loaf-sugar and two or 
three raisins to each quart; the bottles should be 
stronof, and the corks tied down or wired, because 



414 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

the cider will begin to effervesce very soon; when 
the bottles are opened, the cider will foam like cham- 
pagne. Cider bottled in this way will not keep very 
long, but it is delicious. 

A word of caution might be said regarding the 
traditionary indulgence of sucking cider through a 
straw. On a recent autumn two of the feminine house- 
hold craved the refreshing juice of apple in the ab- 
sence of any one competent to draAV it from the barrel; 
one found the vent in the barrel, and began to imbibe 
the cider after the manner of the seductive urban cob- 
bler; the aider and abettor leaned over the barrel near 
the bung-hole, and as the first thief abandoned the straw 
the air rushed in at the vent-hole to fill the vacuum 
which nature abhors, even in a cider barrel; out flew 
the bung plumb into the second thief's eye, in quite 
too forcible and painful commentary upon the adage 
that " the way of the transgressor is hard." Let those 
Avho put cider into barrels without a faucet, or into 
bottles with raisins, heed the lesson. 



CHRISTMAS FARE. 4^5 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 

C H R I S T il A S FARE. 

Of all known Christmas-tides in the affairs of men 
none was ever more needed than this* to bear its mes- 
sage of peace on earth and good-will from man to man. 
Most earnestly be it hoped that none among our read- 
ers are made desperate by scant living in this time of 
plenty, that no hungry mouths of children cry for the 
good cheer that should keep Christmas ovens so busy. 
If other feast-days claim small notice in this work-a- 
day world, there are but few hearts unwarmed by the 
thought of Christmas merr}" -making, and few hearths 
cold. ^Yhatever novelty is demanded for other feast- 
ing, Christmas fare has changed but little for many 
generations; the general disposition to revive the cus- 
toms and dainties of the good olden time must warrant 
the reproduction of the time-honored turkey and plum- 
pudding of our English forebears of the fifteenth cen- 
tury. But slight change have the intervening years 
effected, excej^t that suet replaces marrow, and verjuice 
gives way before "strong Avaters." 

The best Christmas puddings are those which are 
made before the feast-day — the longer before the bet- 
ter. In any event, our cooks are advised to mix the 
ingredients named before the eggs in the following 
recipe, and allow them to stand for at least twenty- 

* The winter of the strike. 



416 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

four hours before the pudding is boiled. First stone a 
pound of raisins, and saturate them with half a gill of 
good brandy while the other fruit is being prepared. 
Upon the raisins lay two ounces of citron, and one 
each of candied orange and lemon peel sliced, the 
grated yellow rind and the juice of one orange and 
one lemon, four ounces of shelled almonds, from which 
the skins have been removed by scalding, each nut be- 
ing cut several times, a pound of currants, washed, 
dried in a towel, and rubbed in a sieve with flour to 
free them from stems; a pound of suet freed from 
membrane, chopped, and rubbed with four tablespoon- 
fuls of flour, a poimd of sugar — Demarara or light cof- 
fee sugar is the best — and a pound of the interior of 
a fresh loaf of baker's bread, are to be well mixed with 
the fruit, together with a grated nutmeg, a dash of 
cayenne, and a teaspoonful of salt; over all is to be 
poured a gill of sherry, and the bowl containing the 
pudding covered from the air and kept in a cool place 
for one or two days. Just before boiling the pudding- 
add eight eggs, and enough sweet cream to moisten it, 
but not enough to make it sloppy. Now let all the young 
ladies of the house descend to the kitchen, and in turn 
vigorously stir the fruity compound for the sake of 
the good- fortune it will bring them in the coming 
year. Let a Avater-tight pudding-mould be well but- 
tered, dusted with flour, and then reversed and smart- 
ly struck upon the table, and the pudding well jDressed 
into it, leaving a couple of inches in space for the jDud- 
ding to swell during the cooking; put a round of but- 
tered paper over the pudding, and close the mould tight, 
making sure that no v/ater can penetrate it. Either boil 
or steam the pudding steadily for ten hours. Do not 
open the pudding-mould until the pudding is to be 



CHRISTMAS FARE. 



417 



served. It will keep indefinitely in a cool, dry place. 
Before using it is to be again boiled for two hours. 
Just before sending it to the table pour a glass of bran- 
dy or rum over the pudding, set it on fire, and send it 
into the dining-room blazing. Either brandy or rum 
sauce accompanies it. A hard sauce is made by mixing 
equal parts of butter and white sugar, and flavoring it 
with either liquor. 

Most delicious is Mrs. Howie's rum sauce; to make it 
four large or five small eggs are broken, keeping yolks 
and w^hites separate; wdth each mix two ounces of 
sifted powdered sugar, and beat both to a froth; just 
before serving stir a gill of rum and a pinch of grated 
nutmeg w^ith the yolks, and quickly and lightly mix 
them wuth the stiflly beaten whites; work fast, avoid 
breaking down the whites, and serve the sauce at once. 
A liquid brandy sauce is prepared by stirring two ta- 
blespoonfuls each of brandy and white sugar over the 
fire until the sugar begins to brown; then add half a 
pint of boiling w^ater, four whole cloves, half an inch 
of cinnamon, the yellow rind of a lemon, and four ta- 
blespoonfuls of sugar; boil the sauce five minutes; 
pour it into a bowl containing the juice of the lemon 
and a gill of brandy, and serve it. Foaming sauce is 
made by mixing smooth a quarter of a pound of butter 
with a cupful of powdered sugar, and then for a minute 
beating in the white of one egg; place the bowl con- 
taining the sauce in a basin of hot water, gradually 
beat in half a gill each of brandy and boiling water, 
beat the sauce for two minutes, and serve it at once. 

A less expensive and excellent pudding can be made 

by mixing like plum-pudding the following ingredients, 

and boiling the pudding for three hours (any of the 

sauces will answer to serve with it): six ounces each 

27 



418 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

of bread crumbs, currants, suet, apples, and sugar, four 
ounces of citron, one orange, a lemon, six eggs, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, and any spice preferred. If sauce 
without liquor is desired, the juice and grated rind of 
orange or lemon may be sweetened, spiced, and mixed 
with a little boiling water. 

For mince-meat good recipes are always acceptable; 
even if they have seen the light before, they need not be 
changed for novelty, since at the table we not only par- 
don, but. applaud, the reappearance of well-tried dishes. 
The first given is rather expensive — a fault to be con- 
doned because of the season — but the second is both 
cheap and good. The fruit is prepared as for plum- 
puddings, as also are the suet and almonds, and both 
mince-meats improve by keeping. Boil three pounds 
of lean beef from tlie neck or round in sufficient water 
to cover it, with a little salt; soak a smoked tongue 
overnight in cold water, boil it nntil tender in fresh 
water (about four hours), skim it, cool it in the pot 
liquor, and use two pounds of the least desirable por- 
tions to chop with the beef; remove the membrane 
from three pounds of suet, and chop it fine. With 
these meats mix four pounds of apples weighed after 
they are pared and cored, four pounds of raisins stoned, 
two pounds of currants, one pound of citron, a quarter 
of a pound each of lemon and orange peel candied, a 
pound of shelled sweet almonds and two ounces of bit- 
ter almonds both blanched and cut, the grated yellow 
rind and strained juice of four oranges and four lemons, 
four pounds of coffee sugar, two nutmegs grated, an 
, even teaspoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, cin- 
namon, mace, and pepper, and two even tablespoonfuls 
of salt; add also one quart of Madeira, half a pint of 
good brandy, and cider enough to moisten the mince- 



CHEISTMAS FARE. 419 

meat. Taste it to make sm-e that it lias a rich, even 
flavor in which no one ingredient predominates. Mince- 
meat improves by being packed in jars and kept in a 
cool, dry place. Some honsekeepers prefer to add the 
apples and suet wlien they bake their pies. 

Several recipes for pastry are included in this vol- 
ume, but the fastidious housevv^fe will be amply re- 
warded for all the care demanded in the making of 
puff paste; a fully illustrated recipe, replete with ac- 
curate detail, is given in the author's " Practical Amer- 
ican Cookery." 

This plainer mince-meat is very good; the quantity 
is less than that of the preceding recipe: two pounds 
of lean beef, one pound each of suet, raisins, and cur- 
rants, a quarter of a pound of citron, four pounds of 
ajDples, two pounds of sugar, two nutmegs, one tea- 
spoonful each of pepper, cloves, cinnamon, and all- 
spice, two even tablespoonfuls of salt, half a pint eaf;h 
of molasses and wine, a gill of brandy, and cider 
enough to moisten the mince-meat. 

For the other dainties that make up the usual Christ- 
mas bill of fare recipes have at different times been 
given in this series, except, perhaps, for Charles 
Lamb's " best of sapors," roast pig. This " weakling 
— a flower," should be dressed very like the immemo- 
rial Christmas turkey, and roasted with much careful 
basting, that his crackling may be v/orthy to enclose 
his " animal manna." 

As a contrast to the family Christmas dinner, a Del- 
monico bill is given in all its glory of polyglot, that 
our readers may not lack guidance should they wish 
to venture within the limits of a French chefs Christ- 
mas feasting at $12 a cover: 



420 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

Huitres. 
Pot AGE. 

Consomme a la Souverainc. 

Bisque cV Ecrevisse. 

HoRS d'CEuvre. 

Timbales des Gourmets. 

Releyes. 

Aiguileites de bass rayee Demidoff. 

Paupiettes d'EiJerlans diplomate. 

Selle de Chevreuil d la Granville. 

Entrees. 

Ris de veau d la Biissy, 

Filets de grouse, puree de truffes. 

Ailes de wlaille a V Imperairice. 

Voliere d3 faisan aux Anglais. 

Sorbet Paradis. 

Rotis. 

Dinde sauvage aux marrons. 

Canvas-back duck. 

Entremets de Legumes. 

Cardons d la moelle. Haricots verts sautes. 

Petits p)ois aux laitues. CJioux Brussels a V Anglais. 

Dessert et Glaces. 

Batons royeaux, sauce aux f raise. Gateau Ananas. 

Pain d'abricot d VAngelique. Plaisirs a la creme. 

Maccdoine Marecliale. Delicieux aux noisettes. 

Ponding Mcssire-Jean. Petits fours. Bonbons. 

Pikes 7nontees. Compotes. Fruits. Cafe et liqueur. 

A very eatable American dinner is: 

Oysters on the half -shell. 

Oyster or turkey soup. 

Fried smelts with potato balls. 

Celery fritters. Stuffed sweet potatoes. 

Roast sucking pig with bread-sauce, or 

Iloast turkey with oyster force-meat. 

Celery. Cranbcrr}^ jt'H}'- Various relishes. 

Plum-pudding with brandy sauce. 
Mince-pies. Cranberry-tarts. White grapes. 
Assorted fruit and nuts. Candied fruit. 
Confectionery. Black coffee. 



CHRISTMAS FARE. 421 

Recij^es for preparing these dishes have been given, 
even to the making of confectionery. The cream can- 
dy ah'eady described can be so varied by the addition 
of fresh fruit juice, candied fruit, nuts, and liqueurs as 
to afford great variety. To test the keeping qualities, 
some of the candy, about a cupful, was put into a tin 
box, and has been exposed to all the changes of tem- 
perature and climate attending journeys from the 
southwest to the Atlantic coast, thence to mountain 
regions, and again to the seashore; after nine months 
it was quite sweet and good, save that the outer surface 
had hardened from exposure to the air. So our read- 
ers will be quite safe in packing tlie cream in glass or 
earthen jars, which will protect it from the action of 
the atmosphere. 

The French cream, or fondant^ is made as follows: 
Put a pound of loaf sugar and a half -pint of cold wa- 
ter over the fire in a sugar-boiler or a thick saucepan, 
and boil it until it reaches the degree called by con- 
fectioners "the ball"; that is, until a little of the sugar 
cooled in cold water can be rolled to a little ball be- 
tween the wet fingers. If, when the sugar is first put 
over the fire, about a third of an even teaspoonful of 
cream of tartar is added to it, the danger of " graining " 
will be obviated; this is an important point for begin- 
ners in sugar-boiling. When the sugar reaches " the 
ball," remove it from the fire, and cool it in the sugar- 
boiler for five minutes; meantime beat the whites of 
five eggs to a stiff froth; hold the sugar-boiler above 
the bowl containing the beaten whites, and slowly pour 
the sugar into them, beating the mixture constantly, 
so that it may be quite smooth; if the sugar hardens 
it can be melted again, but the beating of \\iq fondant 
— for so the mixture is called — must not cease until all 



422 FAMILY LIVING ON $500 A YEAR. 

of the sugar has been added to the eggs. This fon- 
dant is the basis of many French bonbons^' it is also 
called Italian meringue^ and baked in a cool oven, on 
a papered board, in the form of ^neringues or kisses 
A third form of cream for candy is made by boiling a 
pound of sugar with one third of an even teaspoonful 
of cream of tartar and a gill of cold water to '' the 
thread." This is tested by dipping the thumb and 
forefinger of the right hand into cold water, then for 
an instant into the boiling sugar, and pressing them, 
together; separate them; if the sugar stretches be- 
tween them like a thread, without breaking, it is suffi- 
ciently boiled. Remove it from the fire, and let it 
cool in the boiler for fifteen minutes; then with a 
wooden spatula or spoon rub the sugar against the 
sides of the boiler; as the portion being rubbed be- 
comes white and creamy, stir it with the clear syrup; 
when all is creamy, it can be kept just warm enough 
to remain as soft as it should be for forminor into va- 
rious shapes. 

With any of these three " creams " and fruit juice, 
nuts, candied fruit, or liqueurs^ tlie various bonbons^ or 
French cream candies, can be made with ease. The 
first method given is the simplest, and is entirely 
satisfactory. The little ones can have their festal in- 
dulgence of candy entirely harmless; a small sum for 
pretty papers or fancy boxes, and the waxed paper 
used for wrapping the candies, will give them all the 
charm of the products of confectioners, and the moth- 
er can have the satisfaction of knowing that the feast 
is absolutely innocuous. «, 

Another old and favorite Christmas luxury is snap- 
dragon ; some raisins are laid uj^on a large shallow 
bowl or platter; a tablespoonful of brandy, alcohol, or 



CHKISTMAS FARE. 423 

any spirit is poured over them and lighted; the sport 
is to catch a raisin from the midst of the flames with- 
out burning the fingers. If the snap-dragon is lighted 
in a dark room the game becomes weirdly fascinating. 
Of course there should be no inflammable drajDery 
about the wrists of the players, or within reach of the 
flames. With this suggestion for the close of the 
children's greatest festival, w^e heartily wish that of 
all merry Christmas Days this one may be the merriest, 
and that every house may be made bright with 

"Sunshine from heaven and the eyes of a child." 



INDEX. 



Almonds, salted, 3G3. 
Ammonia, use of, 304. 
Appert's canning process, 352. 
Apple — and orange jelly, ITS; 

pudding, 107; sauce, cider, 413; 

short-cake, 399. 
Apples — directions for evaporat- 
ing, 181, 182 ; evaporated, 182 ; 

pickled, 153. 
Apricots and oranges, 352. 
Artichoke — and cress salad, 397 ; 

Jerusalem, 397; soup, 397,398. 
Aspic jelly, 234, 240 ; lor salads, 

138. 
Autumn dinners, 394 -406 ; bills 

of fare for, 394, 398, 402. 

Bacox, dry-salting, 87. 

Baked peppers, 375. 

Baking powder, advantages of 
good, 108. 

Balls — egg, 253 ; forcemeat, 245 ; 
marrow, 60 ; sausage, 89. 

Banana — cake, 168; pie, 169. 

Bananas, wavs of using, 168, 169. 

Bannock, 109. 

Barbecue — of shad, 205 ; of small 
game, 222 ; of Spanish macker- 
el, 205; of white-fish, 205 ; Point 
Shirley fish, 401. 

Bartlett pears, iced, 382. 

Beef — broiled cold roast, 321 ; 
best smoke for, 78 ; carving 
roast, 331 ; carving sirloin, 331 ; 
cooking cross rib, 72 ; chuck 



ribs make delicious d la mode, 
68 ; drippings, 57, 58 ; end of 
roasting ribs, 69 ; excellent dish 
from neck, 76, 77 ; garnishes 
for steak, 60 ; Hamburg, 72 ; 
how to choose, 66, 67 ; how to 
use quantities, 66-79 ; Knicker- 
bocker way of. drying, 77, 78; 
marrow, 59 ; marrow garnish 
for steak, 60 ; neck pieces, 72, 
73 ; Pennsylvania method of 
potting, 68-70 ; pieces for corn- 
ing, 71 ; pieces in forequarter, 
67, 68 ; points to remember as 
to, 79 ; pot roast of shoulder 
piece, 72 ; prime ribs, 68 ; pro- 
portion of flesh on hindquarter, 
57; recipes for corning, 71, 72 ; 
remarks about steaks, 329; rolls, 
to cook, 351 ; savory dishes from 
leg and neck pieces, 73-77; shin 
of, 72, 357 ; steak d la Bear- 
naise, 60 ; to cut up forequar- 
ter, 67, 68 ; to soften fibres of 
tough, 73, 74 ; trimming, 57. 

Beets — baked, 411 ; fried, 365 ; 
pudding of, 384. 

Beverages for dinnei', 339. 

Bill of fare, 4 ; breakfast, 392 ; 
Christmas, 420 ; Delmonico's 
Christmas, 420 ; for autumn 
dinners, 394, 398, 402 ; for 
midsummer, 387, 388; for 
spring dinners, 357, 363, 366 ; 
for summer dinners, 373, 377, 



426 



INDEX. 



881 ; for Tlianksgiving dinners, 
408, 410, 411 ; 'for the week, 
887 - 389 ; for two nice little 
dinners, 351, 353 ; our first, 8. 

Biscuit, sour milk, 108. 

Blackberry cordial, 105, 1C6. 

Blanqueite^ 188. 

Blue-fish — baked, 205 ; scalloped, 
389, 390. 

"Bluegrass burgoo," 221. 

Bologna sausage, 91, 92. 

Bone jelly, 65 ; proportion of, to 
meat, 97. 

Bones — deviled, 320 ; food value 
of, 64, 90 ; to be used for soup, 
331 ; treatment of, 64, 65, 96 ; 
Avhicli are the most nutritious, 
97. 

Boxulxn, 188. 

BouiUahahe^ 188. 

Bouillon, 229 ; making, 197, 198. 

Brandied fruit, 104, 105. 

Bread — brown, 344; disposal of 
pieces of, 301 ; fried for gar- 
nish, 187. 

Bread - and - butter, brown, 344 ; 
English, 314, 315. 

Breakfast — dislies for, 8, 34, 35, 
391, 392; marketing for, 391; 
service of, 284, 285, 300; some- 
thing about, 386. 

Breast of duck, 401, 402. 

Brine for beef, 71, 72. 

Brochette, 188. 

Brooms — care of, 296, 297 ; treat- 
ment of old, 302. 

Broth, a semi-gelatinous, 65. 

Brown roux, 41, 194, 195, 213. 

Brunswick stew, 216, 398, 899. 

Buckwheat cakes, 85 ; camp stvle, 
36. 

Burns, treatment of, 307. 

Butter — burnt, 208 ; caper, 209 ; 
clarified, 41; fruit, 158; parslev, 
209 ; pickle, 378. 

Buvinir, co-operation in, 15, 17-19, 
27.^ 



Cabrage — and tomato salad, 405 ; 
avoiding odors from cooking, 
115, 120 ; how to boil, 120, 376 ; 
preparing and cooking, 119, 
120; pickled, 146, 147. 

Calf's-head — minced, 249 ; imita- 
tion of turtle, 248, 249; imita- 
tion of terrapin, 257 ; to clean, 
250 ; to skin, 250. 

Cake — banana, 108; orange, 177. 

Cakes and pies, New England, 
409. 

Call-plate, 287. 

Candied orange peel, 175, 176. 

Candies, French, 370, 421. 

Candles, dipped, 98 ; moulded, 97. 

Candy, creams for, 421-423. 

Canned goods — criticisms on direc- 
tions for choosing, 47, 48 ; dan- 
ger of using meats, fish, etc., 
put up in tin, 46 ; directions for 
choosing, 46, 47; purchase of, 
45; resort to, 121; should be 
put up in glass, 46 ; some words 
about, 45-52 ; suggestions con- 
cerning use of, 50 ; testimonies 
to value of, 49, 50. 

Canning — domestic, 51, 52 ; jars 
for, 155 ; kettle for, 155. 

Canvas-back duck — baked, 226; 
broiled, 227 ; Eastern shore, 
229 ; in chafing-dish, 227 ; ra- 
c/out of, 227 ; roasted, 226 ; sal- 
mi of, 228. 

Canncllon, 188. 

Caper-butter, 209. 

Capillotade, 190. 

Cardoons, 128. 

Cards, visiting, 809. 

Carpet — for dining-room, 303 ; to 
clean spots from, 302, 803. 

Carrots, cream of, 367, 368. 

Carving, mvsterics of, 329-334. 

Caster,"the"old-fashioned, 823. 

Catfish, cooking, 204, 205. 

Cattle, Hebraic method of slaugh- 
tering, 55. 



INDEX. 



427 



Catsup — grape, j50, 183; mush- 
room, 125 ; to keep, 273. 

Cauliflower, baked with sauce, 
354. 

Celery, cooked like asparagus, 1 14. 

Cellar— cleanliness of, 269, 2*70; 
drainage of, 270. 

Cervelat^ Gotha and Brunswick, 89. 

Chards, 128. 

Chartreuse, 188. 

Cheese — cream, 396; Roquefort, 
355 ; to improve flavor of, 308; 
with salad, 346. 

Chefs, tricks of trade of French, 
76. 

Cherries, keeping, 22. 

Chicken — baked, 229 ; breaded 
and fried, 231 ; carving broiled, 
334 ; carving roast, 834, 335 ; 
boiled, 229 ; boiled, with oyster 
sauce, 409; cold boiled, 231, 
232 ; croquettes, 232-234, 321 ; 
excellent way to use cold, 107; 
fricassee, 106 ; frilot, 230, 231 ; 
giblet stew, 62, 63 ; how to 
dress, 403; Marvland fried, 379, 
380; pie, 229,368-370; pinions 
and drumsticks, 369, 370 ; pot- 
pie, 230; roast, with liver-sauce, 
402-404; salad, 132; scalloped, 
322. 

Children — must not waste food, 
6 ; taught to cat nicely, 6. 

Chili — Colorado, 1 1 5 ; to make, 1 14. 

Chimneys, care of lamp, 305. 

China — treatment of new, 300 ; 
washing, 274 ; wooden tub for 
washing, 264. 

Chinese cook, 19, 63. 

Chocolate, Mexican recipe for, 313, 
314. 

Chops— loin, 329 ; shoulder, 329. 

Chowder, brown, 209, 210. 

Christmas — bill of fare, Delmoni- 
co's, 420; dainties, 419; fare, 
415-423; pudding, 415-418 ; 
rum-sauce for pudding, 417. 



Cider — apple-sauce, 413; boiled, 
413 ; sucking, 414 ; to keep 
sweet, 413. 

Civit, 188. 

Clams, raw, 344, 347. 

Closets, care of dish, 275. 

Coffee, place at table of, 181. 

Colcannon, 384. 

Cold meats, fish, etc., rewarmcd, 

1 o 
±o. 

Condiments — physiological effect 
of, 196, 197; use of, 335, 336. 

Consomme, 197, 198; to clarify, 
860. 

Cook, Chinese, 19, 63. 

Cookerv, conditions of successful, 
7. 

Cooking, collecting odors of, 266. 

Cordial — blackberry, 165, 166; 
raspberry, 166. 

Copperas water — a good disinfect- 
ant, 116, 117, 265; to make, 
265. 

Coppers, scouring, 265. 

Coqnillcs, 188. 

Corn — baked, 384; canned, 54; 
evergreen, 383 ; pickled, 142 ; 
Souihern stvle of green, 381, 
382 ; stewed', 384. 

Country housekeepers, suggestions 
for, 95. 

Courses — dinner, 347-349; list of 
service by, 343. 

Crabs — okra soup with, 377 ; soft- 
shell, 203. 

Crackling — bread, 70 ; pone, 94. 

CraneSjherons, etc., Southern game 
birds, 221. 

Cranks, catering to digestive, 393. 

Cream, 25; forcandy,422; French, 
421 ; how to keep, 26 ; of car- 
rots, 367, 368; sauce, 12; soups, 
193, 194; walnuts, 371, 372; 
M'hipped, 355, 371, 372, 395. 

Croquettes, 188; chicken, 232, 
234 ; rice, 404, 405. 

Croustadcs. 187. 



428 



INDEX. 



Croutes, 187. 

Croutons^ 187. 

Crumbs, removal of, 326. 

Cucumbers — and onions, pickled, 

144, 145 ; pickled, 146. 
Culinary failures, 274. 
Currant shrub, 166. 
Curry of duck, 400. 
Curtains, shaking, 297. 
Custard, royale^ 860. 
Custards, Mrs.Clinton Locke's, 362. 
Cutlery, washing of new, 263. 
Cutlets, veal, 330. 

Dainties, summer, 82. 

Dandelion plants for salad, 127. 

Delicacies, special May, 80. 

Delmonieo's Christmas bill of fare, 
420. 

Deodorizers, 116, 117, 265. 

Dessert of apples and stale bread, 
107. 

Devices, labor-saving, 261, 262. 

Deviled bones, game, and poultrv, 
320. 

Devils, 189. 

Diagram of dinner-table, 341. 

Dinner — a typical Thanksgiving, 
408 ; beverages for, 339 ; cost 
of family, 8, 9 ; courses of, 340- 
.342 ; entrees and side dishes, 
345 ; laying table for, 339-343 ; 
list of service by courses, 343 ; 
materials for family, 9, 10; plan- 
ning a, 335-337 ; preparing and 
cooking family, 10-14 ; prepa- 
ration of fastidious, 851-356; 
remarks about fastidious, 350 ; 
remarks on service of, 348 ; Ro- 
man punch at, 348 ; service at, 
281,284; service of, 340; service 
of coffee, 347 ; service of dishes 
at, 343, 349 ; service of shell- 
fish at, 344; table, diagram of, 
341 ; the daily, 8, 4; the roast 
at, 846 ; two bills of fare for 
fastidious, 851, 353. 



Dinners — autumn, 394 - 406, and 
bills of fare for, 394, 898, 402; 
spring, 357-372, and bills of 
fare for, 357, 363, 366; summer, 
373-384, and bills of fare for, 
373, 377, 381; Thanksgiving, 
407-414, and bills of fare for, 
408, 410, 411; preparation of, 
408, 409, 411, 412; two nice 
little, 350-356, and bills of fare 
for, 851, 353. 

Dining-room — choosing carpet 
for, 803 ; cleaning, 803, 304 ; 
draperies of, 298 ; dusting fur- 
niture in, 296, 297; Hoor, ar- 
rangement for, 299 ; furniture 
for, 304 ; outfit of, 298. 

Dish, responsibility for a spoiled, 
274. 

Dishes — best method to heat, 325 ; 
borax for washing, 261 ; cheap 
appetizing, 61 ; for breakfast, 
391,392; garnishing, 336; prep- 
aration of Fi'ench, 421, 423 ; 
proper service of, 329 ; ' wash- 
ing of new, 263. 

Dish-cloths and towels, 264. 

Disinfectant, copperas water a 
good, 116, 117,265. 

Donkey sausage, 89. 

Dress, working, 259. 

Drains, destroving odors in, 116, 
117,265. 

Draperies of dining-room, 298. 

Draught, helping a poor, 295. 

Druggets, to clean, 297. 

Duehessc loaves, 405. 

Duck— breast of, broiled, 401 , 402 ; 
canvas-back, 226, 227; curry of, 
400 ; salmi of cold, 228 ; salmi 
with olives, 354 ; to cook, 353, 
354. 

Dumplings — for fricassee of salt 
pork, 106 ; marrow, 60, 61. 

Economies, small, 200. 

Economy — in table supplies, 31 ; 



INDEX. 



429 



there must be careful and stud- 
ied, 13. 

Eels, fried. 383. 

Egg-balls, '253. 

Egg-plant — fried, 112; fritters, 
112,382,383; griddle- cakes, 
112; pickled, 112; scalloped, 
112; stewed, 112; to bake, 111, 
112; with okra, 112. 

Eggs — boiled and fried, 103 ; po- 
tatoes and fried, 102 ; toast and 
fried, 102. 

Elderberry and grape sauce, 150, 
151. 

Entertainments — refreshments at, 
309-315 ; remarks on small so- 
cial, 309. 

Entree^ a delicious, 62, 63. 

Expenses, household, 2-4, 6-9. 

Failures, culinary, 2*74. 

Fare — bill of, 4 ; bills of, for din- 
ners, 351, 353, 357, 363, 366, 
373, 377, 381, 394, 398, 402, 
408, 410, 411 ; bills of, for the 
week, 387-389; Christmas, 415- 
423 ; extension of farmers', 
102 ; farmers' limited range of, 
101 ; favorite English, 224. 

Fastidious dinner, remarks about, 
350. 

Fat — and bone, importance of, as 
food, 96 ; scraps, 70, 87 ; treat- 
ment of, 57-59 ; uses of, 97. 

Filds, 189. 

Fire — helping a poor, 293 ; light- 
ing a, 268 ; making a grate, 295. 

Fish — abundance of, 29; baked 
blue, 205 ; baked halibut neck, 
204 ; barbecue of shad, 205 ; 
barbecue. Point Shirley, 401 ; 
breaded and fried, 202 ; broiled 
skate, 208 ; broiled fluke, with 
pickle butter, 381 ; carying, 
332 ; cheaper kinds of, 207 ; 
cooking cat - fish, 204 - 205 ; 
cream of skate, 209 ; for din- 



ner, 202 ; fried skate, 208 ; 
cold, heated, 321 ; how to cook 
and serve pickled, 24 ; how to 
keep, 24 ; prices of, 29 ; remarks 
on, 201 ; scalloped, 202, 206 ; 
scalloped fresh, 389, 890 ; stur- 
geon, 206, 207 ; used the second 
time, 186. 

Floor — dining-room, 303; rugs 
for dining-room, 299 ; staining, 
299. 

Flour — average price of, 29 ; 
grades of, 29 ; remarks about, 

« 1 O o o 

oZ, OO. 

Fluke, baked, with pickle butter, 
381. 

Fondant for candy, 421. 

Food — economical use of remains 
of, 308 ; farinaceous, 5 ; method 
of purchasing, 15-18, 386 ; over- 
seasoning, 335, 336 ; perishable 
articles of, 21, 23; remarks on 
the second service of, 7, 184- 
186. 

Forcemeat — balls, 245 ; bread, 9, 
10, 363; celery, 404; for poul- 
try, 409. 

French candies, 371, 421. 

FricandeaUy 189. 

Fricassee, 189 ; chicken, 106, 107 ; 
of salt pork, 106. 

Fritot, 189, 230, 231. 

Fritters — egg - plant, 882, 883 ; 
orange, 406. 

Frozen apple, 355. 

Fruit — brandied, 164, 165; butter, 
158; cordials, 165-167; for 
breakfast, 284 ; for pickling, 
142 ; ices, 169-171 ; jams, 159 ; 
marmalades, 159 ; perishable, 
22 ; power of Board of Health 
in regard to, 20, 21 ; process of 
canning, 154, 155; remarks on, 
168; roly-poly, 412; tropical, 
168. 

Fuels — compared, 268 ; cost of, 3 ; 
saving, 306, 307- 



430 



INDEX. 



Furniture — for dining-room, 304 ; 
cleaning upholstered, 304. 

Galantines, 234-241. 

Game — canvas -back duck, 22G, 
227 ; carving, 332, 333 ; claret 
■with, 223 ; cooking small or 
large birds, 225, 226 ; deviled, 
320 ; galliraaufrv of, 223, 224 ; 
how to cook wildi221, 222 ; pot- 
ted, 224 ; pudding of cold, 224 ; 
salmi of cold duck, 228 ; teal, 
226; to cook small, 222, 223; 
to keep, 271 ; to pot, 223 ; to 
prepare water birds, 225 ; words 
about, 211,212. 

Garnish — a border of rice or 
mashed potato for, 337 ; fried 
bread for, 187; for chops and 
steaks, 337 ; for sausages, 90 ; 
marrow, 60. 

Garnishes, 336, 337; for beef- 
steak, 60 ; value of, 61. 

Gentlemen's suppers, 327, 328. 

Gherkins, picklinc:, 145. 

Giant puff-balls'^— edible, 126; 
stewed or fried, 126. 

Glass, treatment of new, 263, 
300. 

Grains, merits of different, 35. . 

Grape — and elderberry s:iuce, 150, 
151; catsup, 150, 183; sauce, 
150. 

Grapes — canning, 182, 183; re- 
marks on, 177, 178 ; to keep, 
178-181. 

Gratins, 189. 

Green-groceries, suggestions in ref- 
erence to, 19. 

Greens, boiling, 117. 

Grenadins, 189. 

Groceries — care of, 272, 273 ; pur- 
chase of dry, 31. 

Grocers, excuses of, 139, 140. 

Grumblers, some servants consti- 
tutional, 356. 

Gumbo, 222. 



ITamdut neck, baked, 204. 

Haricots, 189. 

Hams — brine for salting, 87 ; how 

to cure, 86. 
Hash, shin of beef for, 72. 
Hasty-pudding, American, 35. 
Head-cheese, 93. 
Herbs, sweet, 196. 
Hominy, boiled and fried, 378. 
Household — expenses, 2-4, 6-9; 

promotion of economy in, 302. 
Housekeepers, suggestions for 

country, 95. 
Housekeeping, one of the worst 

evils of American, 4. 
Housewife, guidance of, 269. 
House-work, management of, 259. 
Howells' pig, 356. 
Huckleberry spider-cake, 109. 

Ice, to keep, 271. 

Ice-box, care of, 271. 

Ices, fruit, and ice-creams, 169- 

171. 
Income, average family, 1. 
Indian meal — comparative cost of, 

35 ; more nutritious than flour, 

35. 
Indian puddings, 412. 
Insect poisons, 275. 
Insects, destruction of, 272. 
Invitations to kettle-drums and 

teas, 310. 
Italian vieringuc, 422. 

Jam, peach, 161. 

Jams, fruit, 159. 

Jars for canning, 155. 

Jelly — aspic, 234: keeping, 155, 

156 ; making, 158 ; orange, 172, 

175. 
Jowl, 94. 

Kentucky gumbo, 222. 

Kerosene oil — care required in us- 
ing, 305 ; explosiveness of, 266 ; 
to extinguish flames of, 305. 



INDEX. 



431 



Kettle for canning, 155. 

Kisses, meringue for, 422. 

Kitchen — cleaning utensils in, 
2G7 ; cleaning woodnork of, 
2G6, 267 ; cookery-book in, 274 ; 
fresh atmosphere in, 266 ; keep- 
ing in order, 263 ; light neces- 
sary in, 265 ; refuse to be 
burned, 269. 

Knickerbocker fricassee, 217. 

Knives, to scour, 260. 

Kohl-rabi, 128. 

Kromeskeya^ 189, 

Labor-sating devices, 261, 262. 

Lamb — best in early summer, 80 ; 
breast of, ^vith tomatoes, 363 ; 
frozen, 88; how to keep, 81; 
pilaff of, 390; potted, 88; pur- 
chase .of, 80 ; roasted forequar- 
ter, 80; varying prices of, 80; 
warmed cold, 321. 

Lamps — filling, 305, 306 ; metal, 
the safest, 305. 

Lard — for pastry, 395; trying 
out, 87, 88. 

Lemon shrub, 167. 

Lemons, spiced, 151. 

Lettuce salad, 365. 

Lighting, cost of, 3. 

Limes, spiced, 151, 152. 

Liqueur, raspberry, 166. 

Loaves, Duchesse, 405. 

Lunar caustic for vermin, 275. 

Luncheon — dishes for, 325; laying 
table for, 323-325 ; marketing 
for, 391 ; service of hot dish at, 
326; service upon tray, 327; 
waiting at, 325, 326. 

Luxuries, autumn, 215, 216. 

Luxury, a Thanksgiving, 413. 

Macaroni — and its cookery, 37- 
44 ; buying, 44 ; Calabrian, 43 ; 
chrome yellow in, 38 ; dry rind 
of cheese for, 308 ; farmer's 
dish of, 41; for soups, 44; 



Genoa, 37; how to tell good, 
37; how to cook, 39-44; Italian 
dish of, 41, 42 ; Italian dressing 
for, 40 ; kinds of, 39 ; Leghorn, 
43 ; manufactured in United 
States, 38; methods of making, 
38, 39 ; Naples, 38 ; observa- 
tions on, 37, 38 ; sauces for, 40 ; 
Spanish method of cooking, 43. 

Maid — the typical, 291, 292; 
training of, 6. 

Mangoes, green, 149. 

Manners of servant reflect on 
mistress, 286. 

Marinade, 73. 

Marketing, 15-17; early. 111. 

Markets, early activity in, 16. 

Marmalade — Dundee, 172, 173; 
Florida, 174 ; Mrs.Prescott Spof- 
ford's, 174; orange, 172-174; 
peach, 161. 

Marmalades, fruit, 159. 

Marrow — balls, 60 ; tisane, 60 ; 
toast, dumplings, and mince, 61. 

Martinoes, pickled, 146. 

Matelote, 189. 

Matting, to wash, 303. 

Mats, table, use of, 323. 

3Iayonnaise, 132-141 ; difficulties 
in making, 136-138 ; French, 
133, 134 ; service of acid fruit 
with, 134, 140, 141; substitutes 
for oil in, 138, 139 ; watermelon 
salad with, 141. 

Meals, planning for, 285. 

Meat — and fresh peppers, 114; 
an easy way of drying, 78 ; 
cheaper in West than East, 29 ; 
disposition of large pieces of, 
54; frozen, to thaw, 56 ; drying 
in air or sun, 78 ; how tainted, 
56, 57; May delicacies in, 80; 
mince,418, 419 ; parts that taint 
first, 54; pliysical effects of bad, 
45 ; prices of, in leading ciiies, 
30 ; primitive method of curing, 
78 ; purchase of, 53, 54 ; re- 



432 



INDEX. 



moval of veins from, 5G ; stew 
of tough, 15 ; to keep, 271 ; 
trimming, 57; used second time, 
186, 187; warmed cold, 321. 

Meringue, Italian, 422. 

Alilk — a food, not a beverage, 
324 ; how to keep, 25, 26 ; 
sour, 308 ; toast for tea, 319, 
320; veal, 80, 81. 

Midsummer experiment, 385. 

Mince — calf's - head, 249 ; meat, 
418, 419 ; shin of beef for, 72. 

Miroton, 189. 

]\Iirrors, polishing, 298. 

Mush, fried, 378. 

Mushroom — catsup, 125; salad, 
127. 

Mushrooms — canned, 125, 126; 
fresh field, 123 ; remarks about, 
123; remedy for poisoning from, 
124; rice and, 390, 391; Ilus- 
sians eat poisonous, 124; test 
of, 124, 125 ; treatment of, 124 ; 
uses of, 126 ; with rice, 382. 

Muskmelon — pickled, 147, 148; 
salad, 381. 

Muskrats as food, 221. 

Mutton — always in season, 80; 
carving, 330; corned, 88; frozen, 
88 ; potted, 88. 

Napkins, uses of, 277, 278. 
Naphtha, a dangerous fuel, 306. 
New England pies and cakes, 409. 

Oakland stuffed peppers, 115. 

Oatmeal — adulteration of, 34 ; 
imported, equalled by Ameri- 
can, 34. 

Odors, destroying bad, 116, 117. 

Oil,explosivencss of kerosene, 266. 

Oil-cloths, cleaning, 267. 

Okra — soup with crabs, 377 ; 
uses for, 112, 113. 

Olive-oil — nutritious, 76 ; an im- 
portant fat, 140; should be 
kept from the light, 76. 



Omelet — an, 103; bread, 104; for 
tea, 319; salt-fish, 103; South- 
ern, 103. 

Onions — a wholesome pickle, 144 ; 
avoiding odors from cooking, 
116; peeling,116; pickling,144. 

Opossum — cold roast, 220 ; dishes 
made from, 220. 

Orange — cake, 177; cream, 177; 
fritters, 406; jelly, 172, 175; 
marmalade, Dundee, 172 ; Flor- 
ida, 174; Mrs. Prescolt Spof- 
ford's, 174; peel, candied, 175, 
176; pudding, 176; pulp, uses 
of, 177; salad, 370. 

Oranges — preparation of, 172; 
remarks on, 171 ; ways of using, 
171-177. 

Outfit of dining-room, 298. 

Oversight, personal, 13, 27. 

Oysters — fried, 365, 366; Mary- 
land, panned, 320; panned, 3 12; 
raw, 344, 347 ; serving, 325 ; 
stewed, 411. 

Paint, cleaning white, 297. 

Pantry — cleanliness in, 272; the 
butler's, 274 ; ventilation of, 
273. 

Panurcs, 190. 

Parsley — butter, 209; winter-grow- 
ing, 131. 

Parties, refreshments for supper, 
311,315. 

Partridge, baked, 409. 

Pastry — lard for, 395; plain flaky, 
369. 

Pate brhee, 89. 

Patties, 190. 

Peach — jam, 161 ; mangoes, 150 ; 
marmalade, 161, 162. 

Peaches — brandied, 164, 165; 
fiied, 162; preserving, 160, 161; 
spiced, 149, 150. 

Peanuts, salted, 362, 363. 

Pears — iced Bartlctt, 382 ; pick- 
led, 152, 153. 



INDEX. 



433 



Pcmican, 79. 

Pepper — action of, 196; sticks, 

346. 
Peppers — baked, 375 ; green, 115; 

meat and fresh, 114; Oakland 

stuffed, 115; to pickle green, 

147. 
Pickle — an old-fashioned mixed, 

144 ; butter, 378 ; for corning 

beef, 71. 
Pickles, 141-153; fruit for, 142, 

148-153; New England, 409; 

to keep, 273 ; vegetables for, 

142-147, 149. 
Pihiff— of lamb, 390 ; of rice, 390. 
Pic, chicken, 229, 368-370. 
Pies and cakes, New England, 409. 
Pig — cutting up a, 82-84 ; pieces 

of a, and how used, 82-84 ; roast 

sucking, 419. 
Pigeons — dumplings, 224; stuffed, 

224. 
Pineapple — iced, 378 ; pickled, 

153; shrub, 167; New Orleans 

\vav of using, 169; preserving, 

162-164. 
Planked shad, 376. 
Plum tart, 396. 
Plums, pickled, 152. 
Poisons, insect, 275. 
Pork — a staple food, 29; baked 

salt, 105 ; best for winter use, 

80 ; breaded, 105 ; carving, 330; 

curing, 84 ; curing legs of, 86 ; 

fricassee of salt, 106 ; New 

England way of putting up, 85, 

86 ; novelty in cookery of salt, 

104; salad, 132; smoking, 84; 

to pickle fat, 86. 
Porridge — a good breakfast dish, 

34 ; nutritiousness of oatmeal, 

35 ; physical effects of, 34. 
Pot roast of shoulder piece of 

beef, 72. 
Pot age a la 7'eine, 404. 
l^ot-pie, chicken, 230. 
Putatoes — and fried eggs, 102 ; 
28 



baked in cream, 371 ; brush for 
Avashing, 261; Diichesse, 405; 
fried with corn, 384 ; mashed, 
365 ; new, broiled, 384 ; new, 
fried, 378; stuffed, 11. 

Poultry- — deviled, 320 ; for lunch- 
eon, preparation of, 229, 230; 
salad of bits of, 132; summer 
dainties in, 82; to keep, 271. 

Preserves — as food for children, 
173; fruit for should be ripe and 
sound, 156; keeping, 155, 156, 
273; orange, 172; pineapple, 
162; putting up, 159; requests 
for special recipes, 160; select- 
ing fruit for, 160. 

Prices, comparison of, 27, 28. 

Problem of family living, 1. 

Provisions, care of, 270, 271, 273. 

Pudding — apple and bread, 107; 
chicken, 107; Christmas, 415- 
418 ; cracker, 412 ; game, 224; 
Indian, 412; Indian with suet, 
412; making Swiss, 364; Ma- 
rianne, 11 ; orange, 176; rabbit, 
219 ; roly-poly, 412 ; rum sauce 
for Christmas, 417 ; squirrel, 
219. 

Puff-ball, giant, 126. 

Punch, Roman, 348, 

Purchase of supplies, 386. 

Ficree, 190, 197 ; making, 199, 200. 

Purees^ brown soup with, 194. 

Quenelles^ 245. 

Rabbit — pudding, 219 ; stew, 219. 

Rabbits, 216. 

Raccoon, dishes made from, 220. 

^a<70u^, 190; how made, 361; soup- 
meat, 361 ; turtle, 248. 

Rampion, 128. 

Rarebits, 319. 

Raspberry— cordial, 166 ; Uqiteiir, 
166. 

Rechatiffes, 185. 

Recipes, requests for special, 160. 



434 



INDEX. 



Reception, refreshments at, 310, 
311. 

Refuse, kitchen, to be burned, 
209. 

Rent, average, 2. 

Rice— and mushrooms, 390, 391 ; 
croquettes, 402, 405 ; to boil, 
400. 

Hissole, 190. 

Roast — beef, carving, 331 ; cold 
opossum, 220. 

Rolls, to cook beef, 351. 

Romaine sauce, 362. 

Roman punch, 348. 

Roquefort cheese, to serve, 355. 

Roiix — brown, 194, 195; white, 40. 

Royale custard, how made, 360. 

Rum sauce for Christmas pud- 
ding, 417. 

Salad — a delicious spring, 134; 
alligator pear, 141 ; apple and 
onion, 134; artichoke and cress, 
397; artichoke, globe, 128; Bar- 
row tomato, 377 ; cabbage and 
tomato, 405; cheese, 12; cheese- 
cream, 365 ; cherry, 135; chick- 
en, 132; corn, 362; dressing, 
French, 133; dressing, ma_(/o?i- 
naise^ 133, 136, 137; dressings, 
132; grape-fruit, 134; lemon, 
134 ; lettuce, 365 ; lobster, 134 ; 
mayonnaise, 133, 136, 137; ma- 
yonnaise, substitutes for, 138, 
139; mushroom, 127; musk- 
melon, 134, 141, 381 ; of herbs, 
Italian dishing of, 131 ; oil, 140; 
oil, adulteration of, 139; oil for, 
139; orange,135,370; plum, 135; 
pork, 132; preparation of chick- 
en, 132, 133; Romaine, 362; 
salmon, 134 ; sorrel leaves for, 
130; thistle, 128; vegetable, 
preparation of, 132, 133 ; water- 
melon, 134, 141. 

Salads — abundance of fresh green, 
127-130 ; country folk need not 



be without, 130; for lamb or 
veal, 130; fruit, 135, 136 ; grow- 
ing in window - boxes, 127; 
larger garden, 131 ; prices of 
green, 127 ; with mayonnaise^ 
132. 

Salami, 89. 

Salmi, Hunter's, 190; of duck, 
228; with olives, 354. 

Salmon, mayonnaise with canned, 
321. 

Salt pork, 85, 86 ; baked, 105 ; 
fricassee of, 106 ; fried, 105 ; 
novelty in cookery of, 104, 105. 

Sauce — brandy pudding, hard,4l7, 
brandy pudding, liquid, 417 ; 
butter, burnt, 208; butter, caper, 
268; butter, clarified, 41; butter, 
parsley, 209 ; butter, pickle, 378 ; 
brown, 11 ; cream pudding. 12; 
foaming pudding, 417; game, 
Mrs. Howe's, 214 ; giblet, 404 ; 
grape, 1 50 ; grape and elder- 
berry, 150,151 ; lemon pudding, 
364; Mandrang, 378; mush- 
room, 126, 354; roast chicken 
with liver, 402-404 ; Romaine^ 
362 ; rum, for Christmas pud- 
ding, 417; Tartar, 247; tomato, 
41; tomato paste for, 143: 
white, 40. 

Sauces — brown, 40 ; to keep, 273 ; 
used the second time, 186. 

Saucepans, flat-bottomed, 269. 

Sausage — Bologna, 91, 92; gar- 
nish for, 90; pork, 91; skins, 
91; veal, 92. 

Sausages — German, 89 ; donkey, 
89 ; horse, 89 ; liow to make, 
89 ; to preserve, 90. 

Scalloped — blue -fish, 389, 390; 
cold fish, 206 ; dishes for tea, 
321,322. 

Scallops, 190; fried, 390. 

Scouring knives, etc., 260. 

Scrapple, Bhiladelphia, 92, 93. 

Scraps, 70, 89. 



INDEX. 



435 



Seasoning, action of, 19G, 197. 

Servant — appearance of, 28 G ; 
average wages of, 3 ; how train- 
ed, 258, 26i-263 ; in the dining- 
room, 276, 277, 293, 297 ; man- 
ners of, reflect on mistress, 286; 
personal cleanhness of, 287 ; 
sleeping-room of, 258 ; Southern 
house, 289 ; sweeping, 296 ; the 
typical, 291, 292; toilet appli- 
ances for, 258 ; use of utensils 
by, 262; waiting at table, 281, 
282 ; words from standpoint of, 
263 ; work of, 259, 260. 

Servants, Chinese, 19, 63, 64. 

Service — directions for table, 301 ; 
in Germany, 290 ; demand for 
good, 289 ; niceties of table, 
287; of dinner, 340; of food, 
remarks on the second, 184- 
186; secret of perfect table, 
288. 

Shad — barbecue of, 205 ; planked, 
376 ; roes, fried, 376. 

Shell-fish, serving at dinner, 344, 
347. 

Short - cake — apple, 399 ; peach, 
394 ; strawberry, 373-375. 

Shoulders, carving, 330. 

Shrub — currant, 166 ; lemon, 167; 
pineapple, 167. 

Silver — chamois for polishing, 
264 ; cleaning, 300, 301 ; pol- 
ishes for, 264 ; washing, 274. 

Sinks, destroying odors in, 116,117. 

Sirloin of beef, carving, 331. 

Skate— boiled, 208 ; broiled, 208 ; 
cream of, 209 ; fried, 208. 

Sleeping-room, servant's, 258. 

Smelts, breaded and fried, 405. 

Smoking, famil}', 85. 

Smoking-closet, 84, 

Snapdragon, 422, 423. 

Soap — hard, 101 ; home manufac- 
ture of, 98, 100, 101 ; potash, 
100 ; soda, 100 ; soft, 99 ; toilet, 
101. 



Sorrel leaves for salad, 130. 

Soup — artichoke, 397, 398 ; botcil- 
lon, 197, 198 ; brown and white, 
cost of, 195 ; brown chowder, 
209, 210 ; hvown purees for, 194, 
196, 199 ; clear, 197 ; cold wine, 
382 ; consomme, 358 ; cream, 
193, 194; cream of beets, 12, 
193; cream of carrots, 367; 
cream of salmon, 351 ; cream 
of skate, 209 ; cream oyster, 
366 ; flavors for, 196; making, 

195, 196 ; materials, uses of, 
358 ; okra, with crabs, 377 ; 
potage d la reine, 404 ; poultry 
and rice, 200; rabbit, 217; re- 
marks on, 192, 193 ; royale cus- 
tard for, 358 ; seasonings for, 

196, 197; squirrel, 216, 217; 
stock, making, 358-360 ; stock, 
proportion of meat and bone 
for, 358 ; stock, turtle, 243, 
245 ; thick green turtle, 245, 
246 ; turtle, clear, 245 ; used 
the second time, 186; venison, 
214 ; white vegetable, 193, 194. 

Soup-meat, ragout of, 361. 

Sour-crout, 120; preparation for 
table of, 121. 

Souse, 93, 94. 

Spaghetti, Naples, 43. 

Spiced limes and lemons, 151. 

Spinach — for salad, 130; treat- 
ment of, 118, 119. 

Spring dinners — bills of fare for, 
357, 363, 366 ; preparation of, 
and dishes for, 357-372. 

Spring lamb and milk veal, 80. 

Spoonholder, chamois in bottom 
of china or glass, 324. 

Spots on carpet, 302, 303. 

Squirrel — fricassee of, 217; Mrs. 
S. S. Ward's stew, 218, 219; 
pudding, 219 ; soup, 216, 217 ; 
to skin, 398. 

Stains — removing coffee, 277 ; re- 
moving, from hands, 260. 



436 



INDEX. 



Steak, how to treat a tough, TS. 

Steaks, turtle, 24 fi. 

Stew — a Carletou House turtle, 
246; Brunswick, 398, 399; rab- 
bit, 219 ; squirrel, 218, 219, 221 ; 
turtle brown, 248 ; wood terra- 
pin, 253, 254 ; wood terrapin, 
wine with, 254, 255. 

Storeroom — cleanliness of, 269, 
270, 272 ; necessity for, 45. 

Stores, care of, 270. 

Stove, attention to, 267, 268. 

Strawberries, care of, 22. 

Strawberry short-cake, 373-375. 

Stringbeans saiUes^ 354. 

Sturgeon, 206, 207 ; baked, 396, 
397; pickled, 207. 

Succotash, 384. 

Sugar, 31 ; keeping, 32 ; to test 
purity of, 31. 

Summer dinner, a typical, 373. 

Summer dinners — bills of fare 
for, 375, 377, 381 ; preparation 
and cooking of, 373-384. 

Sunday teas, 316-322. 

Supper — a delicious, 312, 313; 
elaborate, 313-315 ; parties, re- 
freshments for, 311-315. 

Suppers — gentlemen's, 327, 328 ; 
service of, 327. ' 

Supplies — and prices, remarks on, 
27, 28 ; improved quality of, 
28 ; purchase of, 45, 368. 

Sweeping, 296 ; directions for, 302. 

Swiss pudding, making, 364. 

Table — clearing the, 301 ; service, 
directions for, 301 ; service, in- 
formal, 276-292; service, secret 
of perfect, 288 ; setting the, 
276-280 ; small children at the 
family, 276, 277; waiting at, 
281. 

Table-cloth — Canton flannel un- 
der, 317, 323; ironing, 302; 
spots on, 277. 

Table-linen, washing colored, 278. 



Tables, cleaning, 267. 

Tart, plum, 396. 

Taste, indulgence of, 3-4. 

Tastes, dishes enough to satisfy, 
all, 14. 

Tautog, baked, 408, 409. 

Tea — invitations to, 319; omelet 
for, 319 ; place at table of, 281 ; 
refreshments for, 310; service 
of, 327. 

Teal, 226. 

Teas, Sunday, 316-322; cold 
meats and fish warmed for, 
321; dishes for, 318-322; hot 
dish for, 318; laying table, 317, 
318; preparation of, 316-318; 
scalloped dishes for, 321, 322; 
the housekeeper embarrassed 
by, 316. 

Terrapin, 249; California, 250, 
251; cooking, 249-253; dia- 
mond-back, to boil, 250; dia- 
mond-back, to dress, 251, 252; 
imitation, 256, 257; Maryland 
stew, 254 ; Maryland, without 
wine, 254; Mrs. S. S. Ward's, 
255; Pennsylvania wood, 253; 
red-leg, 253 ; soup, clear, 252 ; 
South Carolina gophers, 253. 

Thanksgiving dinner, a typical, 
408. 

Thanksgiving dinners — bills of 
fare for, 408, 410, 411; prepa- 
ration of, and dishes for, 408, 
412. 

Thanksgiving luxury, a, 413. 

Thanksgiving time, 407. 

Thistles for salad, 128. 

Toast — and fried eggs, 102; mar- 
row, 60, 61 ; milk, for tea, 319, 
320 ; purpose of, 336. 

Tomato — and cabbage salad, 405 ; 
sauce for macaroni, 41. 

Tomatoes — paste for sauce, 143; 
pickling green, 142-144 ; styles 
of cooking, 113. 

Turbans, 191. 



INDEX. 



437 



Turkey — baked, 409 ; boned, 235- 
241 ; carving roast, 334. 

Turtle — brown stew, 248 ; Carle- 
ton House stew, 246 ; green, ob- 
servations on, 242; Mrs. Glas- 
se's method of cooking, 246; 
preparing, 243, 244 ; quenelles^ 
245 ; ragout, 248 ; soup stock, 
243-245; steaks, 247; thick 
soup, 245, 246 ; to kill a, 242,243. 

Utensils — careful use of cooking, 
307, 308; careless use of, 302; 
cleaning cooking, 307 ; treat- 
ment of new metal, 264 ; use 
of, by servants, 262. 

Veal — best in early summer, 80 ; 
carving, 330 ; cutlet, prepara- 
tion for table of, 361 ; cutlets, 
330 ; milk and grass, 81 ; salad 
of bits of, 132 ; sausage, 92. 

Vegetables — a pretty dish made 
of tender, 336; and their cook- 
ery, 110-122; avoiding odors 
from cooking, 115 ; boiling, 117; 
brush for washing, 261 ; canned, 
52 ; early Southern, 30 ; for 
pickling, 142; glazed, 361 ; how 
to keep, 270 ; judging of ten- 
derness of, 118; keeping fresh 
green, 20, 21 ; power of Board 
of Health in regard to green, 20, 
21 ; preserving for winter use, 
121, 122; recipes for warming 
summer, 384 ; use only tender, 
118; used second time, 187. 



Venison — baked, 409; chops, 214; 
corned, 213 ; dried, 213; keep- 
ing, 212-214; pickled,214; pie, 
215; potted,212,213,215; price 
of, 212; remarks about, 211, 
212; sauce for, 214; smoked, 
213; soup, 214; to cook, 214, 
215 ; used in sauces and soups, 
213. 

Vermin, destruction of, 272, 275. 

Visiting-cards, 309. 

Visitors, servant's reception of, 
286. 

Vol-au-verds^ 191. 

Waffles, baking, 285. 

Wages, servant's, 3. 

Waiting at table, 281. 

Walls, to clean dining-room, 303, 
304. 

Walnuts, cream, 371, 372. 

Water-drinking, error as to, 324. 

Watermelon salad with mayon- 
naise, 148. 

Week, bill of fare for, 387-389. 

Wheat, cracked, shelled, etc., 33. 

White custards, 362. 

White sauce, 40. 

White soups, 193, 194. 

Whipped cream, 355, 395. 

Wicks, treatment of lamp, 305. 

Wife, ability of, 2. 

Wine soup, cold, 382. 

Woodchuck, 220. 

Work — din in g - room , 293-297 ; 
servant's early morning, 259 ; 
slighting, 286. 



THE END. 



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